Maggie’s Any trip advice for Fl Keys?

Slash0311

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  • Feb 11, 2017
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    I figured Id take a chance. My wife and I are thinking of trips for next year and thinking of the Keys. We're pretty low key and not much for night life. Good restaurants and small crowds would be ideal. Fishing, snorkeling and maybe diving would be awesome. We're open on when to go as well but would avoid spring break and hurricane season.


    Anyone have any dos or don'ts? Must see places? Local contacts?

    Feel free to PM me.
     
    In my opinion the best scuba diving is done from Key Largo (the closest to Miami), which has easy access to the Pennecamp marine park and several cool ship wrecks with many decent dive boat operators. I've stayed several places I did not care for, If I went again I would stay at the Holiday Inn.

    Key West is the total party zone. I could not be there more than a single evening.

    The middle keys around Marathon seem the most laid back and authentic.
     
    Learn to scuba dive before you go and dive in the Keys!!!!

    If you do, don't go on dive trip with snorkelers. They have no idea what they are doing and will get in the way. I learned the hard way.
     
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    In my opinion the best scuba diving is done from Key Largo (the closest to Miami), which has easy access to the Pennecamp marine park and several cool ship wrecks with many decent dive boat operators. I've stayed several places I did not care for, If I went again I would stay at the Holiday Inn.

    Key West is the total party zone. I could not be there more than a single evening.

    The middle keys around Marathon seem the most laid back and authentic.

    There's a Condo/compound on the east side of Marathon that my wife and I stayed at. Low key, no crowds, no drama, small restaurant/bar. I'll see if I can find the info and I'll post it.
     
    Learn to scuba dive before you go and dive in the Keys!!!!

    If you do, don't go on dive trip with snorkelers. They have no idea what they are doing and will get in the way. I learned the hard way.
    Learned the hardware the hard way, did you! Just kidding with you.

    @diverdon has the best advice.

    In my opinion the best scuba diving is done from Key Largo (the closest to Miami), which has easy access to the Pennecamp marine park and several cool ship wrecks with many decent dive boat operators. I've stayed several places I did not care for, If I went again I would stay at the Holiday Inn.

    Key West is the total party zone. I could not be there more than a single evening.

    The middle keys around Marathon seem the most laid back and authentic.

    Marathon is where we go. It’s eady enough to take a day jaunt to Key West if you want to say you did it.
     
    Below are some recommendations:

    In Key Largo:

    The Fish House - http://fishhouse.com/
    The Buzzards Roost - http://www.buzzardsroostkeylargo.com/

    If you are into snorkeling/diving, as mentioned above , check out John Pennekamp Coral Reef Stage Park - http://pennekamppark.com/

    In Islamorada:

    Whale Harbor Restaurant Seafood Buffet - https://whaleharborrestaurant.com/. The place burned down in 2013 but has been rebuilt.

    Key West:

    There are a lot of bars, restaurants, and things to do in Key West - https://keywest.com/
    Some that come to mind are Duval Street, The Southernmost Point, Hemingway's Home, Sloppy Joe's Bar.
     
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    The wife and I went in May. We hit up all the breweries and distilleries, along with taking the ferry to the Dry Tortugas National park which included snorkeling. The Waterfront Brewery has great beer and food definitely recommend that.
     
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    Marathon.
    Last trip we stayed at the Seahorse cottages. They were pretty nice, but the real plus was fishing out the back door. Lots of current in that canal cause it's a block off of Vaca Cut. You can catch supper every evening off your back porch.

    Fishing off the bridges is great. Fish in the shade breaks and around the pilings, always plenty of food to catch. Blue line grunts are as good as snapper to eat.
    Get familiar with a knocker rig (egg sinker and a hook) keep it simple. Fresh bait. Always carry a few sabikis. Chum is always suggested. Frozen blocks of chum are everywhere. If you are fishing, you should be chumming. You need a chum bag(net) as well.

    Small pinfish are a premier bait for almost everything. Squid and cutbait is fine for grunts.

    I don't know nuthin bout snorkeling beyond this:
    "If you look like a twinky, and swim around in my kitchen, I'm gonna at least taste ya."
    I don't swim where sharks are plentiful, and they are shurnuff plentiful in the keys.

    I like the 7 mile grill, they are always real nice and the food ain't bad, it's also the most affordable meal down there. They also have the best key lime pie I have eaten in the keys.
    Stay TF away from the Cracked Conch Cafe, the worst( and most expensive) meal I've eaten in the keys. Any place down there will cook your catch for you.

    The Marathon Lady is a good headboat for a guaranteed mess of fish. I'd definitely take my own bait and gear though. If you go take some ballyhoo for cutbait. It'll target the nicer snapper.
     
    Marathon.
    Last trip we stayed at the Seahorse cottages. They were pretty nice, but the real plus was fishing out the back door. Lots of current in that canal cause it's a block off of Vaca Cut. You can catch supper every evening off your back porch.

    Fishing off the bridges is great. Fish in the shade breaks and around the pilings, always plenty of food to catch. Blue line grunts are as good as snapper to eat.
    Get familiar with a knocker rig (egg sinker and a hook) keep it simple. Fresh bait. Always carry a few sabikis. Chum is always suggested. Frozen blocks of chum are everywhere. If you are fishing, you should be chumming. You need a chum bag(net) as well.

    Small pinfish are a premier bait for almost everything. Squid and cutbait is fine for grunts.

    I don't know nuthin bout snorkeling beyond this:
    "If you look like a twinky, and swim around in my kitchen, I'm gonna at least taste ya."
    I don't swim where sharks are plentiful, and they are shurnuff plentiful in the keys.

    I like the 7 mile grill, they are always real nice and the food ain't bad, it's also the most affordable meal down there. They also have the best key lime pie I have eaten in the keys.
    Stay TF away from the Cracked Conch Cafe, the worst( and most expensive) meal I've eaten in the keys. Any place down there will cook your catch for you.

    The Marathon Lady is a good headboat for a guaranteed mess of fish. I'd definitely take my own bait and gear though. If you go take some ballyhoo for cutbait. It'll target the nicer snapper.
    Damn! I couldn’t like that post any more. I’m now hungry and want to go to the keys.
     
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    Snorkel Looe Key.

    You will swim with sharks, Goliath Grouper, unbelieveable sea life.

    Eat at Square Grouper about 5 miles or so South of the Loos Key snorkel center. Be there early because it gets busy.

    We went as a family in April.

    We stayed at a resort in Marathon just next door to the turtle hospital. Cant remember the name of the place. Was about a tenth of a mile prior to 7 Mile Bridge right hand side.
     
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    As many have said, the middle keys offer everything on your list. If you do make it down to Key West take a short boatride to Suset Key and eat at Latitudes. Amazing sunset and food, but you’ll need to reserve early.
     
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    If anyone asks you to hold something for them snort it quick.

    I figured Id take a chance. My wife and I are thinking of trips for next year and thinking of the Keys. We're pretty low key and not much for night life. Good restaurants and small crowds would be ideal. Fishing, snorkeling and maybe diving would be awesome. We're open on when to go as well but would avoid spring break and hurricane season.


    Anyone have any dos or don'ts? Must see places? Local contacts?

    Feel free to PM me.
     
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    WOW!! I knew you guys wouldn't let me down. Lots of good info to take in. We're looking at flying into Miami so that may limit fishing gear.

    My wife and I took a try scuba class and loved it. We're not cetified at the moment. We are looking into that or just doing one of the beginner trips there that includes covering the basics and the 2 one tank dives.

    We don't really care about Key West partying and I like the idea of somewhere in the middle.

    Is there a "least busy time" around April or May? We're flexible on when we can go and want to avoid and hurricanes later in the summer.
     
    No traffic congestion in April when we went.

    Weather was great especially for New Englanders.

    Only traffic issue was that every local warned us about speeding in the Key Deer zones.
     
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    If you want middle of the keys, well I stayed at this place years ago and it was nice. They have or had a dive shop and ran diver excursions.... Just like they talked about on Dexter, the current really moves when you get off shore. Some fun wrecks to dive- many you stay on the outside... far more advanced diving to safely dive inside of a wreck. Better diving near Isla Morada than Key West.


    While it is 82 miles to Key west, that can be a long drive in the summer... call it 2 - 2 1/2 hours...

    Figure out what you want to do and select the correct area from there... there are nice places that are mellow in Key West... and some fine dining.... Overall Key West is a party town with a lot of tourist trap shops selling overpriced crap you dont need

    Cheeca Lodge & Spa
     
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    WOW!! I knew you guys wouldn't let me down. Lots of good info to take in. We're looking at flying into Miami so that may limit fishing gear.

    My wife and I took a try scuba class and loved it. We're not cetified at the moment. We are looking into that or just doing one of the beginner trips there that includes covering the basics and the 2 one tank dives.

    We don't really care about Key West partying and I like the idea of somewhere in the middle.

    Is there a "least busy time" around April or May? We're flexible on when we can go and want to avoid and hurricanes later in the summer.
    If you fly into miami stop at about any pawn shop and you can pick up some fishing gear for cheap. And I think it adds to the adventure of fishing a new place with sketchy gear and whatever info you can get from the local bait shop. I had a blast last time i was down there, the highlight was my FIL and I snuck into a closed marina a after midnight with a case of beer and a couple junk rods. We didn't catch any trophys but we had more fun doing stuff like that than the charter boat. (And the charter didn't suck.)
     
    Key Largo has good diving for those who are starting out, but avoid the "cattle boats". Take a look at Quiescence Diving Services. I haven't been down there for a while, and I'm sure there are other similar outfits, but these guys have been there a long time and have a good reputation in the diving community.

    My brother lives near Ft Lauderdale and is an avid fisherman. He likes Islamorada.

    Like others, I don't have much love for Key West.
     
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    Key Largo has good diving for those who are starting out, but avoid the "cattle boats". Take a look at Quiescence Diving Services. I haven't been down there for a while, and I'm sure there are other similar outfits, but these guys have been there a long time and have a good reputation in the diving community.

    My brother lives near Ft Lauderdale and is an avid fisherman. He likes Islamorada.

    Like others, I don't have much love for Key West.


    Islamorada is one that's caught my attention. A first hand recommendation is certainly what I'm hoping for. I don't mind paying extra for high quality (assuming they'll be more than the large group tours)
     
    If you fly into miami stop at about any pawn shop and you can pick up some fishing gear for cheap. And I think it adds to the adventure of fishing a new place with sketchy gear and whatever info you can get from the local bait shop. I had a blast last time i was down there, the highlight was my FIL and I snuck into a closed marina a after midnight with a case of beer and a couple junk rods. We didn't catch any trophys but we had more fun doing stuff like that than the charter boat. (And the charter didn't suck.)
    Try the local delicacies


    Cocaine

    Bench
     
    Do not whatever you do run over one of them damn little ass deer. They will lock you away in prison for a long long time. Islamorada is a great fishing destination. Winter time is their busy season and more pricey, summer is hot as ten yards of hell but not as pricey. Avoid august as it is lobster season and super crowded even if you could find a place to stay it would as high as eagles nuts.
    Some of the cooler wreck dives require an advanced diver rating but thats easy enough to get once a certified open water diver
    Check out mel fischer museum in key west. Pretty cool. Also try one of the trolley rides. Lots of neat information and history on the ride from the drivers
     
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    Those "Deer" are only big enough for half a sammich anyway.

    They ain't mighty big. Here's a big doe.
    IMG_20190504_105319922_exported_298_1562988186945.jpg
     
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    Conch Fritters!!!! The spicy ones!! There's some really good eating on all the keys. But just grab a couple fitters for a snack you won't be disappointed.
    I know you said that the party thing is not for you. But go watch the sunset on Key West and stroll through the street entertainment afterwards. Then spend a little time at Irish Kevin's. But only if Kevin is on stage. He has a pretty good show.
     
    I was checking online.

    Are all the beaches bordered by rock? Any (not on Key West) that are sandy and swimmable?


    Thats what my wife discovered before we went........not much beach front.

    The resort we stayed in on Marathon had a little walled off, man made beach area.

    The wall keeps out the bulk of the sea grass.

    The wall is actually a curtain that doesnt extend to the bottom.

    So swimming inside the little enclosure we had barracuda, some neat colored tropical fish, some sea slug type things and at least one sand shark.

    The whole family had those full face snorkel masks and we spent the better part of the day exploring that lagoon.

    .....and there was a bar right beside the lagoon.

    Ill try to get you the name of the resort.

    Accomodations were condos - full kitchen, couple of bedrooms, master bed/bath, kids had their own head, laundry......was nice and the location just at the 7 mile bridge made me feel we were centrally located, not too long a ride to Key west, not too long a ride from Mainland.
     
    I don’t recall ever visiting a beach in Key west.

    The beaches 1/2 way up can be fine. Lots of little shells so sand shoes are nice to have.

    Woodys was a fun place decades ago. Home to Big dick and the extenders. I believe big dick has passed away. He was a funny and obnoxious guy- roasted the Crowd.
     
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