anybody else do this? (case lube and primer pocket cleaning novel ideas)

[secondofangle2]

First, I got my second die set from WTC (first was 50 BMG, now 375 CT) and this thread is not about the dies per se, but rather about WTC recs to NOT use water soluble lubes (most of them including RCBS) because they can cause rust inside the die. They recommend STP oil additive +/- dilution with 20% 30 weight motor oil (because STP is so thick). I've been using this and it works great but this is the first time in my 30+ years reloading that I came across this suggestion. Would 90 weight gearbox oil work too? Because I have leftover of that from my motorcycle maintenance days.

Next, for (occasional) primer pocket cleaning, I used to use the RCBS wire thingies, but a while back I just started using a PP uniformer set at factory specs. It doesn't engage the brass of the PP, but it does clean the carbon down to a uniform depth very nicely, and I don't worry about it gouging the sides or going too deep.

Maybe I'm late to the party on one or both of these things. Opinions and experiences invited.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I use rcbs lube mixed like the lanolin mix and have never had even the slightest rust in my dies. I do clean them out from time to time with brake clean and then put really light oil and wipe off basically but still.... once the water is gone, it's gone, so not sure how that would cause rust just because the lube is water soluble.... guess it's possible but hasn't been an issue for me at all for a few years now.

It's SO MUCH BETTER, because you just use hot water with a tiny bit of soap and lemishine in a bucket a d swish them around for a min and all the lube is off your brass and you have nice clean brass that's shiny but doesn't clean inside the necks much. No tumbling or any of that to get lube off and it sizes very consistently.

 

[secondofangle2]

Dan Warner told me that guys don't clean their dies after using water soluble lube and that's the problem. But I admit that I don't clean my dies after each use, nor do I want to. I have enough cleaning on my plate each day/week/month. Car, house, bike, barrel, yard, etc

 

[Huskydriver]

Lanolin with 90%+ alcohol in a spray bottle is the answer.....

Chuck a bunch of cases in a sealable ziplock couple sprays on side shake around repeat done.

I'm still using the same ziplock from like 2019

 

[secondofangle2]

That’s how you remove the wax?

I’ve had suboptimal results with denatured alcohol for removing case lube.

 

[memilanuk]

That’s how you remove the wax?

From the die? 3" patch, spray some Mpro7 gun cleaner on it, stick it over a 223 chamber brush. Run it in, twist, remove. Repeat with a clean dry patch. Super easy.

 

[Huskydriver]

That’s how you remove the wax?

I’ve had suboptimal results with denatured alcohol for removing case lube.

No that's how I lube the cases before sizing after that it's gets tumbled in fine grit walnut sand blasting media to polish it

 

[secondofangle2]

I’m hearing that the “STP trick from WTC” is not magic sauce

Which is why I asked

So thanks

 

[Huskydriver]

I mean if it works it works.... I just can't imagine it being faster or more efficient then the quick method I described above but ymmv.

I'm a stickler for throughput and efficiency lol... I hate reloading and the more time I can spend not doing it and spend shooting I will

 

[jet_lagged]

When I occasionally clean primer pockets, I also use the uniformer tool.

If using motor oil type fluid for lube when case sizing, how do you get it off? Toss the brass in a pot of boiling water a couple of times, or ???

 

[secondofangle2]

You either wipe it off or put it in the Tumblr with media

 

[91Eunozs]

I clean my dies after loading, then spray them down with WD40, and store them ‘wet’ in a ziploc baggie.

Clean them again (mostly just wipe them down) when I pull ‘em out for the next loading session.

 

[spife7980]

 

[spife7980]

Lanolin with 90%+ alcohol in a spray bottle is the answer.....

Chuck a bunch of cases in a sealable ziplock couple sprays on side shake around repeat done.

I'm still using the same ziplock from like 2019

Use the 99% and there is even less water with even quicker flash off

 

[Huskydriver]

Use the 99% and there is even less water with even quicker flash off
View attachment 8520402

In this economy!!!!?

 

[Huskydriver]

I clean mine after loading, then spray them down with WD40, and store them ‘wet’ in a ziploc baggie.

Clean them again (mostly just wipe them down) when I pull ‘em out for the next loading session.

Seriously.... Why tho....

 

[secondofangle2]

Yeah, one of my goals in the last five years or longer has been to simplify my reloading process

 

[91Eunozs]

Seriously.... Why tho....

View attachment 8520415

Powder and primers are stored inside, but all my reloading gear is stored out in the garage… Very humid, and have already lost too many tools and stuff to surface rust pitting.

Hell, even the stabilizing arms (link arms) on my single stage Hornady press are starting to rust, and I keep that thing clean and wiped down at all times.

Edit: to clarify, the WD40 is just used for storage… I use regular rcbs lanolin-based lube on my cases, and Hornady one shot on my dies…mostly because I love the way it smells! LoL

 

[Huskydriver]

Powder and primers are stored inside, but all my reloading gear is stored out in the garage… Very humid, and have already lost too many tools and stuff to surface rust pitting.

Hell, even the stabilizing arms (link arms) on my single stage Hornady press are starting to rust.

But it's brass?

 

[91Eunozs]

I guess I’m confused…. I thought the OP was asking about storing dies.

Edit: just read the title…LoL. I clicked the link from the home page, and the title was truncated. Mis-read the OP’s post and thought he was referring to the dies rusting.

 

[Huskydriver]

I guess I’m confused…. I thought the OP was asking about storing dies.

Edit: just read the title…LoL. I clicked the link from the home page, and the title was truncated. Mis-read the OP’s post and thought he was referring to the dies rusting.

Lol fair... Thought you were talking about your brass. The dies yea I guess if you don't have a way of keeping em away from moisture that makes sense

 

[91Eunozs]

Re: my brass, I way overdo it on that process unfortunately; mine is not an efficient nor easy process.

1) I “wash” the still primed brass in hot water and a small bit of dish soap inside my tumbler drum
2) Drain and rinse the brass, then de-prime
3) Wash the now de-primed brass a second time with hot water, Lemishine, and a half pound or so of small stainless steel pins…the brass almost glows after this step, and the pockets are spotless:

4) Inspect and resize/trim as necessary…usually don’t bother with this step for my AR ammo, just trim if necessary, deburr, and go.
5) Wash a third time with just hot water and Lemishine in the tumbler drum.
6) Final polish in the tumbler with walnut media, after air drying of course, for my nickel-plated cases and my ‘nice’ (i.e. expensive) brass
7) Anneal as required… Every time on my 300WSM and 280AI; every 3rd time or so on my .308 and 300BLK cases.

It’s retarded…I know. But it’s relaxing for me, and makes me happy to see the brass come out looking like little works of art when I’m finished, so I take the time to go through all this ass pain.

 

[Huskydriver]

Re: my brass, I way overdo it on that process unfortunately; mine is not an efficient nor easy process.

1) I “wash” the still primed brass in hot water and a small bit of dish soap inside my tumbler drum
2) Drain and rinse the brass, then de-prime
3) Wash the now de-primed brass a second time with hot water, Lemishine, and a half pound or so of small stainless steel pins…the brass almost glows after this step, and the pockets are spotless:

4) Inspect and resize/trim as necessary…usually don’t bother with this step for my AR ammo, just trim if necessary, deburr, and go.
5) Wash a third time with just hot water and Lemishine in the tumbler drum.
6) Final polish in the tumbler with walnut media, after air drying of course, for my nickel-plated cases and my ‘nice’ (i.e. expensive) brass
7) Anneal as required… Every time on my 300WSM and 280AI; every 3rd time or so on my .308 and 300BLK cases.

It’s retarded…I know. But it’s relaxing for me, and makes me happy to see the brass come out looking like little works of art when I’m finished, so I take the time to go through all this ass pain.

 

[wooferocau]

Case Lube ( sizing) i have used "Cooking Spray" for around 40+ yrs.... Tried all sorts of brand name fancy reloading lubes...always gone back to "Cooking Spray" which i think is plain old canola oil..

 

[18Echo]

I use a squirt of 3-n-1 oil on a gloved hand and then stir my brass around in a 1 gallon storage bag. Slickest lube I’ve ever used, absolutely zero drag when sizing and cleans up in an ultrasonic cleaner.

I also used a PP uniformer to clean up the pockets. First used straightens the PP walls and then every use afterwards just skims the carbon off.

 

[supercorndogs]

I cleaned some primer pockets this one time. 1 star, would not reccomned.

 

[MO Fugga]

Mink oil is all I've ever used. Works great! Cleaning primer pockets? Aw hell naw.

 

[secondofangle2]

I find I can seat primers more consistently if I *occasionally* clean them