Suppressors Anyone else think TBAC should start doing this?

[MACHTECH]

I know a lot of guys run a dedicated brake on each barrel. I leave my brakes in the can and use them like a direct thread. I'm starting to have more than one thread size or pitch now with multiple rifles. Also, I like to clean the brakes every so often. They get stuck in the can after a while and are not easy to get out! Am I the only one with this issue?

The fix is a simple spanner wrench and a couple of holes on the back side of the brakes.

 

[RyanScott]

That’s smart I guess but everyone else just rocksetts the brake to the barrel.

 

[Zak Smith]

If you're going to go that far, it's probably easier to just get a 5/8-24 threaded stud to throw in your vice, and use a jam nut.

 

[jonraccrr]

Yea matt g and I tried that with one of mine that was stuck. We ended up needing to do a little welding lol. I think he sent you a pic.

 

[Huskydriver]

It's called dead air key mo... Haven't had a stuck can since

 

[_Windrider_]

All I want is my bipod. @Zak Smith

 

[Zak Smith]

@TacticalDillhole working on it..

 

[Strykervet]

I just take the motherfucker off to clean the rifle and have had zero problems from all cans in several years. You gotta shoot a shitload and never clean the barrel or remove the can to seize a TBAC can onto a brake. Rocksett is fine but I've gotten to where I just use red loctite anymore. But now I have the added fun of figuring out which one i used.

Also, those mounts shouldn't need to be torqued on with hundreds of pounds. Good and wrench snug with some loctite or rocksett is all that's required. Most people, including mfg.'s, over torque these things all the time.

The ones that get stuck the worst are:

Direct threads, especially .22's. I have one Liberty can that MUST be removed every 200 rounds or it'll lock right on. A second one isn't so bad and will go 4-500. But a simple on and off is about all it takes to keep going.

 

[kurtispalu]

I know a lot of guys run a dedicated brake on each barrel. I leave my brakes in the can and use them like a direct thread. I'm starting to have more than one thread size or pitch now with multiple rifles. Also, I like to clean the brakes every so often. They get stuck in the can after a while and are not easy to get out! Am I the only one with this issue?

The fix is a simple spanner wrench and a couple of holes on the back side of the brakes.

View attachment 7076293

We looked into that a few years ago and decided against it. Our brakes are cut out of pre-hardened 17-4 and then coated with an extremely hard DLC. The shoulder/brake interface is critical for proper muzzle alignment and by cutting those holes you are introducing a sharp, hard edge that is mating up against your softer (when compared to the brake) barrel shoulder. We tested it on a barrel and after many times on and off started to see adverse wear marks in the barrel shoulder. I would put a nice 45 degree chamfer on those edges and then inspect the barrel shoulder over time.