Suppressors Anyone have a problem with Kidd barrels? TBAC 22L doesn't fit....

[insectguy]

Since I've had my TBAC 22L-1 (two whole weeks), I've used it on a couple of handguns, and a bolt action H&R M12 rifle. Today I tried to use it on my 10/22 with a Kidd barrel, but had problems. Follow me here: The Kidd barrel (KB) has a thread protector (KTP), and the M12 has a custom-threaded barrel (MB) with a matching thread protector (MTP). I removed the KTP with no problems, and tried to thread my 22L onto KB, but it would only go on a few turns. I then removed my MTP with no problems, and threaded the 22L onto the MB. Removed the 22L. Put the KTP onto the MB just to make sure it fit-- it did. Put the MTP onto the KB, and it fit, but was tight.

So, it looks like the problem is with the KB threads, but the KTP must have a greater tolerance than the 22L. The confusing part is the KTP fits very well onto the KB, with no slop whatsoever.

So, has anyone else had a problem with Kidd barrels? I'm probably going to write to them to see what can be done, but wanted to hear from this forum first.

 

[Zak Smith]

Here are the relevant references,
Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS

Also, here are some tutorial videos on threads and how to gauge them
Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Videos?s=thread

We don't show how to use a go/no-go ring gauge on external threads, but the clincher would be to demonstrate that a 1/2-28 "GO" ring gauge does not thread fully onto the Kidd barrel.

 

[stik]

Yeah I noticed the same thing on my Kidd barrel. I am going to pull it off and take it over to Kidd and see if they will rethread it for me or else I am going to end up sending it out to somebody else to have it rethreaded. Kind of a bummer but at least I have one barrel (Pac-Lite) that it works on right now.

I just sent them an email and attached Zaks thread spec drawing.

 

[insectguy]

Please post their response! I bought this barrel specifically for this suppressor.

 

[stik]

Please post their response! I bought this barrel specifically for this suppressor.

I will do that for sure. I bought mine for the same reason.

 

[Zak Smith]

If the threads are just a little too big it can be fixed without rethreading the barrel

 

[stik]

Well Tony got back to me a few minutes ago. He said: "We can shorten the threads on your lightweight barrel to .400, if you would like but we don't chase threads to change the pitch. Good shooting, MKidd". I'm really not sure if just shortening the threads will fix it or not. I need to find a 1/2-28 3B go gauge to check the threads I guess or maybe a friend of mine has the 3 wire gauges, I'll have to ask him.

I got an email from Thunderbeast. They are going to fix the threads on my barrel for me for a very reasonable fee. $45 return shipping included. I'm going to send it off as soon as I get home from my current work trip.

Thanks guys!

 

[Zak Smith]

As a thought experiment, let's say they were 0.60 instead of 0.40. If the threads got tight and it stopped before it was 0.40" onto the threads (ie, more than 0.20" showing between suppressor and barrel shoulder) then it's not the length that's the problem, but the thread pitch diameter. Screwing a "GO" gauge all the way onto the threads would reasonably prove they are not too large. I bet it wouldn't fit.

 

[stik]

As a thought experiment, let's say they were 0.60 instead of 0.40. If the threads got tight and it stopped before it was 0.40" onto the threads (ie, more than 0.20" showing between suppressor and barrel shoulder) then it's not the length that's the problem, but the thread pitch diameter. Screwing a "GO" gauge all the way onto the threads would reasonably prove they are not too large. I bet it wouldn't fit.

I think that is exactly what is happening with mine. It feels like the threads are too tight before it gets to the 0.40" spot on the threads. Just a little too snug for my liking but I have been spoiled my really nice threading on my .260 that Mile High did for me. (30P-1 in 5/8-24)

I think that the threads need to be shortened and chased and they'll be fine. I don't have access to a go gauge but mine will be at your shop in a few weeks so I guess we will know then.

I'm going to send it out as soon as I get home at the end of the month. Thanks Zak!

 

[jcsparky]

I have a couple of Kidd barrels.
My outback IID threads on just fine, never had a problem.
The Kidd threads are a lil long, I bought the GEMTECH spacer and it tightens up fine back to the spacer.
I think the spacer is .020, but ..?
Not sure what taper the threads are

YMMV

 

[insectguy]

I ordered a 1/2x28 die from Amazon for about $15. It arrived tonight, and although I had a little trouble getting it started, eventually I was able to run it on the threads of my Kidd barrel. I got a little nervous when I saw all the metal coming off, but after running the threads for the full length a couple of times, I can now use my 22L on my barrel. Although the Kidd thread protector is not as tight going on, it locks up tightly. Everything finally works-- now if this polar vortex would go away, I'll head to the range again.

 

[Cvarney]

I picked up a kidd barrel a few weeks ago. I'm still a couple months out on my rimfire can, SWR Spectre II, but I had them thread it to the specs that silencerco lists for it. I'll try to toss up how it goes when I get my can in.

 

[Charger442]

I ordered a 1/2x28 die from Amazon for about $15. It arrived tonight, and although I had a little trouble getting it started, eventually I was able to run it on the threads of my Kidd barrel. I got a little nervous when I saw all the metal coming off, but after running the threads for the full length a couple of times, I can now use my 22L on my barrel. Although the Kidd thread protector is not as tight going on, it locks up tightly. Everything finally works-- now if this polar vortex would go away, I'll head to the range again.

So what your saying is you used a hand die to chase the threads on your Kidd barrel and a bunch of material came off the threads? Have you checked centricity and bore alignment with the suppressor on there?

 

[Zak Smith]

Just be careful if the threads are longer than 0.40" from shoulder to muzzle. If so, while it's mounted and you're shooting, gunk could build up on the part of the muzzle threads that protrudes inside past the female threads on the can and then it could be very hard to get off.

 

[insectguy]

So what your saying is you used a hand die to chase the threads on your Kidd barrel and a bunch of material came off the threads? Have you checked centricity and bore alignment with the suppressor on there?

Yes, and yes.

 

[insectguy]

Just be careful if the threads are longer than 0.40" from shoulder to muzzle. If so, while it's mounted and you're shooting, gunk could build up on the part of the muzzle threads that protrudes inside past the female threads on the can and then it could be very hard to get off.

Zak-- I hadn't thought of that. I guess that's why you get paid the big bucks. I just measured, and from the shoulder to the tip of the threads is 0.486". I guess I'll run a few rounds through and see what happens, then monitor closely. Thanks for the heads-up.

 

[insectguy]

Had no problem whatsoever with removing the suppressor after firing. The 22l-1 performed better than expected, and accuracy did not suffer. The Kidd barrel proved as accurate as advertised with good ammo.

Happy, happy, happy.

 

[Charger442]

just got my 22L-1, with special squared shoulder on it (Thanks, Zak), and it threads flawlessly on my P22 thread adapter, the CZ455 varmint that i had cut and threaded by TJs Gunsmithing (awesome people) my factory CMMG WASP AR barrel, and my factory threaded 10/22 Whistle Pig barrel.

Overall, I am pleased with how ive had no problems with any of the hosts. I will get to fire it this weekend and enjoy it immensely. On a side note, i was kinda shocked by how small and light the 22L-1 is and i couldnt imagine how tiny the S-1 would be. I am very pleased with my purchase.