Are the FN SPR enthusiasts extinct?

#151
I am going to agree with @redneckbmxer24. I removed the sealer and pulled my FNSPR trigger, polished it up, and reinstalled with a lighter spring from MCarbo. Super easy and great results. FNSPR’s were the best return on investment for an ‘out of the box’ precision rifle IMHO.

www.mcarbo.com

Winchester Model 70 Trigger Spring Kit

Reduce trigger pull by up to 50% with M*CARBO’s Trigger Spring Kit for pre-2008 Winchester Model 70 rifles. Compatible with Featherweight, Extreme Weather SS, and calibers like .30-06 and .45-70. Engineered for a lighter, smoother, crisper trigger.
www.mcarbo.com www.mcarbo.com
 
#152
Aries64 said:
After that, the only thing I didn't like about the A3G was the "Saddle" type cheekpiece adjustment, which always shot loose after a few rounds on mine.
Click to expand...

A little tip for those of you who are running the same saddle-style cheek piece... get your height and then cut a paint mixing stick to fill the void between the stem of the saddle and the bottom of the slot. Boom. This will act as a spacer so if your screws come loose, your saddle can’t drop anywhere.

I went with a wooden mixing stick because I can easily trim to size and it will drop free when I remove the saddle and turn the stock over. It also won’t rattle around because the stem of the saddle is pressing down on it. You can do this with anything really, I only used the wooden stick because I didn’t have any polymer.

This also helps you return your saddle to the exact height you had it set at when you remove it to run a cleaning rod. #Consistency
 
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#153
indianalex01 said:
Which did you put in your FN? Pre 2008 or post 2008? Thanks
Click to expand...
SPR A1 owner here. Winchester introduced the “MOA” trigger in 2008. My understanding is that all FN SPR models had the older, pre-64 two-lever trigger (even those produced after 2008). So for MCarbo spring purposes you would need the pre-2008 spring.
 
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#154
I used a ln aftermarket spring in place of the SPR trigger spring. I milled the top of the triggers sear shelf to reduce the triggers travel distance.

Mine breaks at 1lb 12oz according to my Lyman trigger scale.
 
#155
Mjolnir23 said:
Both mine are almost right at 2lbs (+ or - a few ounces) and all I did was take the factory leaf spring out and put in the MCARBO spring. Super easy to do and way cheaper than paying big bucks for another that will most likely put you around the same weight. Drop safe with the "butt stock test" as well.
Click to expand...

Did you try drop test on your rifles with Mcarbo springs by bouncing a cocked rifle on hard surface? With some padding of course.

When I reduced the trigger pull on my old SPR from factory setting 5.5 lb to 2.5 Lb, it will slam fire about 50% times when I tried this home “drop test”. In my experience, 3-lb pull seemed to be the magic number to prevent slam fires with the factory trigger spring.

My current SPR is set at 3 lb by the previous owner and feels good. It has slight creep so I wish I know how to polish it but probably will leave the way it is. it feels almost perfect.
 
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#156
I have decided not to mess with my SPR trigger for the time being. I’m used to CMP / NRA service rifle triggers (~ 4.5 lbs but two-stage) and honestly my stock SPR trigger pull feels really good to me. Not light but very crisp. I wish it were two-stage but that’s just my personal preference.
 
#157
yej0001 said:
Did you try drop test on your rifles with Mcarbo springs by bouncing a cooked rifle on hard surface? With some padding of course.

When I reduced the trigger pull on my old SPR from factory setting 5.5 lb to 2.5 Lb, it will slam fire about 50% times when I tried this home “drop test”. In my experience, 3-lb pull seemed to be the magic number to prevent slam fires with the factory trigger spring.

My current SPR is set at 3 lb by the previous owner and feels good. It has slight creep so I wish I know how to polish it but probably will leave the way it is. it feels almost perfect.
Click to expand...

All 3 of my m70s will pass a drop test, that includes the one with the Mcarbo spring and the other two with factory tuned triggers.
 
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#158
yej0001 said:
Did you try drop test on your rifles with Mcarbo springs by bouncing a cocked rifle on hard surface? With some padding of course.

When I reduced the trigger pull on my old SPR from factory setting 5.5 lb to 2.5 Lb, it will slam fire about 50% times when I tried this home “drop test”. In my experience, 3-lb pull seemed to be the magic number to prevent slam fires with the factory trigger spring.

My current SPR is set at 3 lb by the previous owner and feels good. It has slight creep so I wish I know how to polish it but probably will leave the way it is. it feels almost perfect.
Click to expand...
Neither of mine will slam fire when I hit the butt with more force than it would have from the rifles being dropped from about shoulder high (estimated) with the MCARBO springs in them. I got to get a gauge from a friend to make sure I'm not misleading but they are both around 2lb pulls when I checked them awhile back after putting the springs in.
 
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#160
M8541Reaper said:
A little tip for those of you who are running the same saddle-style cheek piece... get your height and then cut a paint mixing stick to fill the void between the stem of the saddle and the bottom of the slot. Boom. This will act as a spacer so if your screws come loose, your saddle can’t drop anywhere.

I went with a wooden mixing stick because I can easily trim to size and it will drop free when I remove the saddle and turn the stock over. It also won’t rattle around because the stem of the saddle is pressing down on it. You can do this with anything really, I only used the wooden stick because I didn’t have any polymer.

This also helps you return your saddle to the exact height you had it set at when you remove it to run a cleaning rod. #Consistency
Click to expand...

A little foam pipe wrap works fine also!
 
#161
Good thread.
Traded for a SPR here on the hide last year. Made in 2003 according to information from some here on the hide.
Currently being changed to 6.5 creed with proof 22” carbon barrel, manners t3, original bottom metal and trigger. Bushnell lrts will be on top.
Was shooting for 10 lbs but think will come in at around 10.5lbs.
Should be a good all around piece.
Love the action. Will try to post pics when done.
 
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#163
wichitaguns said:
Regarding stocks, any issues with the HS Precison offerings? How about bell and Carlson
Click to expand...

Which HS are you asking about specifically?

I have an m70 with an HS and the stock is good works as it should. It feels sturdy. There are areas where I think the inlet could have been milled better, especially when I compare it to my McMillan, but you have to look closely to see that. It's also a cheaper stock so don't expect McMillan quality.

20200509_031406.jpg
 
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#164
stello1001 said:
Which HS are you asking about specifically?

I have an m70 with an HS and the stock is good works as it should. It feels sturdy. There are areas where I think the inlet could have been milled better, especially when I compare it to my McMillan, but you have to look closely to see that. It's also a cheaper stock so don't expect McMillan quality.

View attachment 7325075
Click to expand...
Thinking the m24 with the adjustable comb.
 
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#165
Until someone manufactures a chassis that allows multiple magazine options McMillan and a little Pro-Bed bedding compound is the way to go IMHO!
I have a Houge FNH stock for FNH TBM real cheap if anyone is interested?
 
#168
Xrslug said:
MDT ESS for the Win Mod 70 takes AICS pattern mags:
mdttac.com

ESS Chassis System

The ESS Chassis System comes complete with a chassis, buttstock, forend, and the MDT Pistol Grip. All hardware is included.
mdttac.com mdttac.com
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the ESS only works with MDT and Magpul magazines (read important notes on MDT site) and even they require some tweaking, not acceptable to me!
Maybe a few other manufacturers could improve upon the ESS chassis while providing multiple magazine options.
McCree is another option I've looked into, we need as many options as the Remington receiver IMHO but I do not see that happening anytime soon!
 
#169
wapiti16b said:
Unfortunately the ESS only works with MDT and Magpul magazines (read important notes on MDT site) and even they require some tweaking, not acceptable to me!
Maybe a few other manufacturers could improve upon the ESS chassis while providing multiple magazine options.
McCree is another option I've looked into, we need as many options as the Remington receiver IMHO but I do not see that happening anytime soon!
Click to expand...

It's not just chassis design. The original AICS pattern magazine is just too wide at the front to insert high enough into a unmodified Model 70 receiver.

The MDT metal and poly mags are slightly smaller in the front, and the chassis was designed to move the magazine back as far as possible in order for it to work.

I believe the discontinued XLR required the receiver to be modified, similar to what is required with PTG and CDI DBM bottom metal.

MDT elected to take the route of offering a chassis that did not require receiver mods, at the expense of requiring a specific magazine.
 
#170
I just bought two hogue stocks.
I was contemplating buying a third and extracting the bedding block. And installing the block in a stock of my choice (some machining required)
Basically a poor man's mini chassis.
Also considered laying up my own stock for fun.
 
#171
I went on the hunt for some 10 rnd FN TBM mags, and I think FN has even discontinued production of them per their website.

Hopefully Chad @LRI can come up with a DBM solution for the crowd.

And maybe, just maybe, FN pulls their head out and releases an updated version, or sells whatever is left for a good price.
 
#174
Can Anybody recommend a great single,stage trigger for these actions that won't cost $400?

Reason I ask, I was tuning my 3 m70 triggers today and realized one is pretty fucked up. The overtravel nut does not tighten up and then I also broke a half off the head of the screw where the nut goes.

I'm really really happy with how crisp my other two triggers are that I truly don't want to go aftermarket on this broken one. However, I'm not entirely sure I can just buy an m70 trigger.

My thing is, if I do get an aftermarket, will it spoil me? As in, will it be so much better that the original triggers will feel shitty and then I'll have to make 2 more purchases?

If someone can tell me where to find an original trigger though, I'm all ears...
 
#175
I shoot a tuned factory FN SPR trigger and I'm happy with it. I've got mine set at 2.5 lbs and it's crisp with no creep. The only aftermarket trigger I considered was the CG Extreme 2 stage, but I don't hear of too many people shooting them. You can pretty much get most Win 70/FN SPR parts from Midwest Gunworks including the parts for the trigger.
 
#176
stello1001 said:
Can Anybody recommend a great single,stage trigger for these actions that won't cost $400?

Reason I ask, I was tuning my 3 m70 triggers today and realized one is pretty fucked up. The overtravel nut does not tighten up and then I also broke a half off the head of the screw where the nut goes.

I'm really really happy with how crisp my other two triggers are that I truly don't want to go aftermarket on this broken one. However, I'm not entirely sure I can just buy an m70 trigger.

My thing is, if I do get an aftermarket, will it spoil me? As in, will it be so much better that the original triggers will feel shitty and then I'll have to make 2 more purchases?

If someone can tell me where to find an original trigger though, I'm all ears...
Click to expand...

I have a Timney I'll sell you.
 
#177
I have a jewel trigger on my stealth/heavy varmint. It’s highly adjustable down to 2 oz. I have it set at 12 oz and it’s superb. No creep. clean let off. The downside is that the trigger housing needs a little machining to fit. It can be done with a dremel tool I suppose.
 
#179
stello1001 said:
Can Anybody recommend a great single,stage trigger for these actions that won't cost $400?

Reason I ask, I was tuning my 3 m70 triggers today and realized one is pretty fucked up. The overtravel nut does not tighten up and then I also broke a half off the head of the screw where the nut goes.

I'm really really happy with how crisp my other two triggers are that I truly don't want to go aftermarket on this broken one. However, I'm not entirely sure I can just buy an m70 trigger.

My thing is, if I do get an aftermarket, will it spoil me? As in, will it be so much better that the original triggers will feel shitty and then I'll have to make 2 more purchases?

If someone can tell me where to find an original trigger though, I'm all ears...
Click to expand...
Two options
1. Modify your stock trigger. It’s not hard.
2. Buy a timney #401 (EBay 120$)
 
#182
The other FN I have, I bought here from a fellow member. It's a PBR XP 300wsm but, also has the A5 McMillan stock. Has the factory Hogue stock as well.
And, man oh man did taking off the nuts and adding that MCARBO spring ever make a difference. She has the sweetest trigger I've ever felt.
Yeah, I love FN Herstal Bolt Rifles
I actually had 2 TSR XP models. A 308 and 300wsm- got hard up and sold both.
 
#183
I bought a a5m XP or whatever model just to have another rifle with a McM a5 stock. own Gap, Tikka, Remington, in various calibers and I shoot pretty good groups with my reloads... I can't get this rifle to shoot whatsoever, moved a known good Leupold M4, installed a TImney 510. same results. how many rounds does it take to break in a chrome lined barrel? I can't imagine what else it would be...

that rifle has now become my subsonic gun so I am experimenting with trail boss and heavy 308 bullets. I wish the rifle had shot better..

155,168, 175, 178, 190, have 208 but I honestly don't want to waste them
RL15
Varget
VV powders
4064. it was a 1.5 inch gun no matter what
 
#186
cruze5 said:
I bought a a5m XP or whatever model just to have another rifle with a McM a5 stock. own Gap, Tikka, Remington, in various calibers and I shoot pretty good groups with my reloads... I can't get this rifle to shoot whatsoever, moved a known good Leupold M4, installed a TImney 510. same results. how many rounds does it take to break in a chrome lined barrel? I can't imagine what else it would be...

that rifle has now become my subsonic gun so I am experimenting with trail boss and heavy 308 bullets. I wish the rifle had shot better..

155,168, 175, 178, 190, have 208 but I honestly don't want to waste them
RL15
Varget
VV powders
4064. it was a 1.5 inch gun no matter what
Click to expand...

Maybe send it back to FN?
It has the 1 moa guarantee I believe
Most will shoot 1/2 moa from what I understand
Of course, the ones I've shot were not chrome lined. However, those TSR rifles I had shot lights out.
 
#187
cruze5 said:
I bought a a5m XP or whatever model just to have another rifle with a McM a5 stock. own Gap, Tikka, Remington, in various calibers and I shoot pretty good groups with my reloads... I can't get this rifle to shoot whatsoever, moved a known good Leupold M4, installed a TImney 510. same results. how many rounds does it take to break in a chrome lined barrel? I can't imagine what else it would be...

that rifle has now become my subsonic gun so I am experimenting with trail boss and heavy 308 bullets. I wish the rifle had shot better..

155,168, 175, 178, 190, have 208 but I honestly don't want to waste them
RL15
Varget
VV powders
4064. it was a 1.5 inch gun no matter what
Click to expand...

My A5M XP took more than 250 rounds to settle down. Now it's easily a half MOA gun with my accuracy load ( 155gr SMK/RL15/Peterson SRP Brass). And it's sub moa with my bang steel load (Any 168gr bullet/IMR4064/LC brass). Most of the guns I bought before this either shot right out of the box or they were used and had been broken in....so I was disappointed at first. But I gave it time and I'm glad I did. Don't give up on it. After you get a number of rounds down range, call FN if you have to. Good Luck.
 
#191
indianalex01 said:
Two options
1. Modify your stock trigger. It’s not hard.
2. Buy a timney #401 (EBay 120$)
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if I typed it wrong or you read it wrong. But at this point, my trigger has become unmodifiable.

I will look at midwestgunworks as per another member's suggestion for m70 triggers and maybe look at the timneys.

Thanks
 
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#192
stello1001 said:
Can Anybody recommend a great single,stage trigger for these actions that won't cost $400?
. . .
If someone can tell me where to find an original trigger though, I'm all ears...
Click to expand...

Rifle Basix makes a drop in trigger that is relatively inexpensive compared to most and is a straight replacement for the stock trigger that keeps the basic stock design and function:
www.brownells.com

WINCHESTER 70 ADJUSTABLE TRIGGER | Brownells

The absolute easiest way to do a Winchester 70 trigger job. Say “Goodbye” to those long, heavy, glitchy, factory trigger pulls on both Pre- and Post '64 Winchester Model 70 rifles with this drop-in replacement. Cast and machined trigger unit uses ...
www.brownells.com www.brownells.com
 
#193
indianalex01 said:
Barrel break in is a myth. Gale McMillan did a great article on it years back. Guns don’t shoot themselves accurate.
Click to expand...

Gale was dealing with hand lapped barrels....a different animal from a normal production gun.
Guns may not shoot themselves accurate, but similar to new machinery, they can become burnished and more consistent. Sometimes when you start up and move new machinery for the first time it chatters. But once it has been run for a little while it smooths out, quiets out. This is why car manufacturers used to recommend the first oil change around 500 miles (or some number well below the normal interval). That first oil change comes out silvery from all the particles in the new engine.

At the same time, I don't think there is some magic formula for ensuring a barrel is properly and completely broken in.
I've done the old shoot-clean for xx number of rounds in the past and I had good results - but I have no evidence to prove that my break in procedure is what made the barrel shoot well. More recently I've taken to the shoot it and see method....use a know good load, or factory ammo and shoot it for a couple hundred rounds. Barrels can speed up after the first xxx number of rounds, and this can affect load development. With my second comp match barrel it hardly sped up at all, but it was fast to begin with. No break in, just shooting known loads.
 
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#194
Kimber.204 said:
Gale was dealing with hand lapped barrels....a different animal from a normal production gun.
Guns may not shoot themselves accurate, but similar to new machinery, they can become burnished and more consistent. Sometimes when you start up and move new machinery for the first time it chatters. But once it has been run for a little while it smooths out, quiets out. This is why car manufacturers used to recommend the first oil change around 500 miles (or some number well below the normal interval). That first oil change comes out silvery from all the particles in the new engine.

At the same time, I don't think there is some magic formula for ensuring a barrel is properly and completely broken in.
I've done the old shoot-clean for xx number of rounds in the past and I had good results - but I have no evidence to prove that my break in procedure is what made the barrel shoot well. More recently I've taken to the shoot it and see method....use a know good load, or factory ammo and shoot it for a couple hundred rounds. Barrels can speed up after the first xxx number of rounds, and this can affect load development. With my second comp match barrel it hardly sped up at all, but it was fast to begin with. No break in, just shooting known loads.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the great reply. I have tried barrel break ins and not doing and everything else. I’ve not had a rifle get better accuracy wise. If it makes someone feel good to do it then they should. I just got an M24 from Euro Optic. I am going to shoot it about 5 rounds and bore snake it. And them run it. I hope she runs. My friend has an M24 and it’s a 1/2 MOA with 7.62 175gn FGMM aka AB39

I have not broke in my FN SPR’s and they are both 1/2-3/4 inch all day
 
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#198
paulL01 said:
Man, the biggest problem I face and I'm sure others do as well, is finding enough land to shoot long distance. I really wanna shoot both my FN's long range but, its hard to find 500+ yards to shoot.
Darn 1st world problems......
Reckon I just gotta be willing to drive.
Click to expand...


I hear you on that. It really sucks when one spends a lot on so many guns, ammo, equipment, etc but can't find a place to shoot.

I've been reaching out to farmers around my area asking if they would rent me a piece but no one wants to. I almost wanna sell off all my stuff!
 
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#199
stello1001 said:
I hear you on that. It really sucks when one spends a lot on so many guns, ammo, equipment, etc but can't find a place to shoot.

I've been reaching out to farmers around my area asking if they would rent me a piece but no one wants to. I almost wanna sell off all my stuff!
Click to expand...

Man, I hate to hear that!
But, I know just what ya mean.
Heck, I can 150 yards anytime I want. And, that's super good for pistols and even good for AR's
But, a 300 Short Magnum and a 308 need more...
 
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