Civilian markings have "H-S PRECISION" molded into the pad, military has "Remington"
Does anyone know where to get a Remington buttpad like this to replace the HS one?
Army M24 Build Thread
- Thread starter superwolf
- Start date
Does anyone know where to get a Remington buttpad like this to replace the HS one?
Apologies if this has been hashed out somewhere else, does the old ultra m3a etched reticle look bright silvery under some backlight?
The reason I asked is I have one that looks really bright. Its s/n 91 00XX.The lettering is white underneath the turret housing, unless its really really shallow engraving its seems as if its just white enamal. I'm afraid to try and scratch off the lettering to find out its a fraud scope, because as far as I'm aware the lettering on the ultras was always engraved into the surface at the bottom of turret housing, unless I'm wrong about that. I guess in short I'm hoping I don't have a civie mk4 with wire reticle that someone passed off as a ultra m3a. The lettering is spot on to the posted photos and other photos I've seen. Its exact angle, exact font exact size. It just doesn't look to be engraved. I can kinda feel the lettering but can tell for sure if its enamal I feel or engraving. Some of the images it looks deep engraved.
Of note, this reticle is a whole lot brighter silver(blindingly so with strong backlight) compared to other confirmed wire reticle scopes I have that are a bit duller shine to the metal, but I was thinking only the edges of glass etched reticles glowed. Unless the etching is plated with metal I wouldn't think the etched reticles would be confused with wire ones.
The reason I asked is I have one that looks really bright. Its s/n 91 00XX.The lettering is white underneath the turret housing, unless its really really shallow engraving its seems as if its just white enamal. I'm afraid to try and scratch off the lettering to find out its a fraud scope, because as far as I'm aware the lettering on the ultras was always engraved into the surface at the bottom of turret housing, unless I'm wrong about that. I guess in short I'm hoping I don't have a civie mk4 with wire reticle that someone passed off as a ultra m3a. The lettering is spot on to the posted photos and other photos I've seen. Its exact angle, exact font exact size. It just doesn't look to be engraved. I can kinda feel the lettering but can tell for sure if its enamal I feel or engraving. Some of the images it looks deep engraved.
Of note, this reticle is a whole lot brighter silver(blindingly so with strong backlight) compared to other confirmed wire reticle scopes I have that are a bit duller shine to the metal, but I was thinking only the edges of glass etched reticles glowed. Unless the etching is plated with metal I wouldn't think the etched reticles would be confused with wire ones.
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I am no expert but I think you are good and it is a real M3A. If you look at my post above you can see that the engraving is very shallow and is white in unpainted scopes. Your SN is in the right range as well. As for the reticle, mine does what you describe if you are not looking directly through the center of the scope.
Yes, the original Ultra reticle gives a sliver/gold color as yours does.
The markings are laser engraved white on all of them starting in 1987 as such the white will not come off, cleaning with acetone will not harm the markings.
Was this the one from ebay?
The markings are laser engraved white on all of them starting in 1987 as such the white will not come off, cleaning with acetone will not harm the markings.
Was this the one from ebay?
Thanks for all the replys. Yes red6actual I confess this to be a recent ebay purchase. I was farily convinced when I purchased it that it was a true ultra going by the bdc the numbers going opposite direction from the mk4 and it also is marked 7.62 nato m118. As well the bottom lettering is spot on as for size and such, but seeing how bright that reticle was I became a little worried. Its not that I'm bothered by the reticle, I'm not bothered by the brown effect on reticles at all. I just wanted to double check. As for the paint, I think I'll leave it green I kinda like it. It came with an older style shorter length buttler creek cap as well that I like better than the new ones. I'll get a pic or two up at some point.
I guess I was questioning the engraving seeing how the closups photos make the engraving look deep. I can feel the lettering as rough so I believe now it is engraved. Even though the scope is painted green the white of the lettering is still clear.
I guess I was questioning the engraving seeing how the closups photos make the engraving look deep. I can feel the lettering as rough so I believe now it is engraved. Even though the scope is painted green the white of the lettering is still clear.
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Glad to see someone got it that appreciates their worth, I hope its a good one.
That shiny reticle is a tell tale sign of the original etched glass reticle, a few pics would be great.
That shiny reticle is a tell tale sign of the original etched glass reticle, a few pics would be great.
I contacted Leupold a while back asking about a M3A serial. They told me the M3A has never been 'copied'. They never heard any reports about fakes M3A.
If its the one that was on eBay a few weeks back, that's a steal
If its the one that was on eBay a few weeks back, that's a steal
I'm grateful for the find and the price don't get me wrong! It is relative though seeing a scope with full deployment kit and irons go for $800 on armslist! I think that was major low-ball especially considering the cost of issue Redfield apreture irons, the issue container, and it also came with ARMS throw-lever rings! Anyway I'm still pleased. Mine came with current catologue Leupold rings painted green that I'll be selling as I don't need them I have the older Ultra rings.
Not sure if a Buttlercreek flip cap used with ARD is correct for issue but the #26 ojb cap fits great. All I need to get is a #17 eye pc cap.
Thanks mescabug bTW!
Not sure if a Buttlercreek flip cap used with ARD is correct for issue but the #26 ojb cap fits great. All I need to get is a #17 eye pc cap.
Thanks mescabug bTW!
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Thanks Mescabug! I guess I was just a littlebit of second guessing there. There were horrible mk4 clones a while back but they were much more obvious fakes.
Not sure if mine was painted by the seller or if it was painted as part of the issue rifle, either way I like the paint!
Not sure if mine was painted by the seller or if it was painted as part of the issue rifle, either way I like the paint!
I contacted Leupold a while back asking about a M3A serial. They told me the M3A has never been 'copied'. They never heard any reports about fakes M3A.
If its the one that was on eBay a few weeks back, that's a steal
Looking to do an M24 build.
I have some questions regarding the Long Action and the .308 cartridge (or more correctly 7.62x51).
On the original M24, it was a LA, but shot 7.62x51.
Q1: What is needed to be done to a LA internal magazine to provide for this for the early M24 ?
Can someone explain in detail, what is going on inside, such that if I was going to build one, what do I need to modify?
Q2: For the M24A2, with a box mag, same type of question. Was the box mag made for 7.62 or 30-06 ?
Please explain how this worked if it was 30-06.
Q3: Any preferred parts suppliers...or to I just "scrounge around" ?
Q4: Were there 2 stock models for the M24A2 ?
Q5: Did the M24A2 ever have iron sights ? Or was it ever an option ?
Q6: Is the MARS rail REALLY $500 ?
I tried to read all I could find.
If I missed something that's already been covered, I apologize.
I searched, but often came up with old links that just took me to the home page.
Thanks in advance.
I have some questions regarding the Long Action and the .308 cartridge (or more correctly 7.62x51).
On the original M24, it was a LA, but shot 7.62x51.
Q1: What is needed to be done to a LA internal magazine to provide for this for the early M24 ?
Can someone explain in detail, what is going on inside, such that if I was going to build one, what do I need to modify?
Q2: For the M24A2, with a box mag, same type of question. Was the box mag made for 7.62 or 30-06 ?
Please explain how this worked if it was 30-06.
Q3: Any preferred parts suppliers...or to I just "scrounge around" ?
Q4: Were there 2 stock models for the M24A2 ?
Q5: Did the M24A2 ever have iron sights ? Or was it ever an option ?
Q6: Is the MARS rail REALLY $500 ?
I tried to read all I could find.
If I missed something that's already been covered, I apologize.
I searched, but often came up with old links that just took me to the home page.
Thanks in advance.
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M24 used an ADL magazine box and a 30-06 follower with Dakota bottom metal, the A2 uses a Badger M24 bottom metal specifically for it with SA mags but LA bottom metal(one in the classifieds now)
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting.../201265-badger-m24-botom-metal-4-ai-mags.html
I'm finishing up an M24 build right now in 300wm.
Rem MARS rails are very tuff to come by, you could get a PRI for half the cost but not spec. I thought I seen a Mcann rail for a rem LA in the classifieds recently for $250-300 which is really close to a mars
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...dustries-mirs-r700-long-action-rail-used.html
M24 stock has adjustable length of pull only and the A2 has adjustable LOP and cheek piece with more of a verticle grip.
To do a build that's a clone you really have to shop around and it may take months to locate spec parts
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting.../201265-badger-m24-botom-metal-4-ai-mags.html
I'm finishing up an M24 build right now in 300wm.
Rem MARS rails are very tuff to come by, you could get a PRI for half the cost but not spec. I thought I seen a Mcann rail for a rem LA in the classifieds recently for $250-300 which is really close to a mars
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...dustries-mirs-r700-long-action-rail-used.html
M24 stock has adjustable length of pull only and the A2 has adjustable LOP and cheek piece with more of a verticle grip.
To do a build that's a clone you really have to shop around and it may take months to locate spec parts
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Note 18JUL13 : For some reason, this post was not immediately posted. It had to be approved by the mods and was thus delayed from appearing. It did not appear until AFTER post #990, so if reading through, somethings may seem redundant or "odd". I apologize, but it was not under my control...
Thank you, WYFOX. I've rearranged your message a bit (to sort of group my Questions with your Answers and make it easier to follow) and have some follow on questions...
So did the shorter 7.62x51 rounds just sort of "slop" around in the longer 30-06 internal box area ?
Did they have to be positioned more rearward or forward to make things work properly?
Is there any chance of the 7.62x51 round being pushed OUT of the box when feeding ?
Or even though the 7.62x51 was shorter than a 30-06, it wasn't SO short it caused feeding problems ?
(I'm trying to understand how a shorter cartridge properly feeds in a longer magazine...)
Was the A1 like this one ? http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/l_393100721_1.jpg
Was the A2 like this one ? https://www.hsprecision.com/shop2/stocks/pst/pst006.html
or this one https://www.hsprecision.com/shop2/stocks/pst/pst025.html
Q6 FOLLOWUP QUESTIONS:
Is this the "correct" MARS rail ? Sniper Country PX - Remington MARS
Thank you, WYFOX. I've rearranged your message a bit (to sort of group my Questions with your Answers and make it easier to follow) and have some follow on questions...
Q1 FOLLOWUP QUESTIONS:
So did the shorter 7.62x51 rounds just sort of "slop" around in the longer 30-06 internal box area ?
Did they have to be positioned more rearward or forward to make things work properly?
Is there any chance of the 7.62x51 round being pushed OUT of the box when feeding ?
Or even though the 7.62x51 was shorter than a 30-06, it wasn't SO short it caused feeding problems ?
(I'm trying to understand how a shorter cartridge properly feeds in a longer magazine...)
Q4 FOLLOWUP QUESTIONS:
Was the A1 like this one ? http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/l_393100721_1.jpg
Was the A2 like this one ? https://www.hsprecision.com/shop2/stocks/pst/pst006.html
or this one https://www.hsprecision.com/shop2/stocks/pst/pst025.html
Q6 FOLLOWUP QUESTIONS:
Is this the "correct" MARS rail ? Sniper Country PX - Remington MARS
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The .308 feeds from the long action. The only thing to be done to the internal mag on the M24 is to shorten it. IIRC, from 38mm to 32mm. It is a Remington LA ADL mag box, with a screw to secure the mag to the action. The follower is milled.
The bottom metal is not the std Rem. Its either Dakota Arms, or Sunny Hills. It has been covered thoroughly in this thread.
The bottom metal is not the std Rem. Its either Dakota Arms, or Sunny Hills. It has been covered thoroughly in this thread.
Bottom Metal: I have read this and other threads and understand about the bottom metal. No need to rehash here
Internal Mag: Thanks for addressing my question !!! This is what I did not know.
So as I understand you
1) The 30-06 LA internal box/spring/follower is used (such as that from a donor ADL 30-06 rifle)
2) The box housing is shortened from 38mm to 32 mm
3) The follower needs to be milled i.e. "shortened" (to allow the proper number of rounds to fit in the shorter box, I'm guessing?)
Q: From this, I take it that the roughly 1/2" difference in length of the .308 vs. the 30-06 causes NO FEEDING ISSUES when the shorter .308 cartridge is used in the longer 30-06 internal magazine, no matter how they are stacked in (some all the way to the front and others all the way to the back). Is this correct ?
Q: I'm also guessing that if the internal mag was "left alone/no mods", it would feed OK, but would not be "correct" as far as being an exact "clone" of the original M24 build. Is this correct ?
Thanks, again...this is the info I could not track down.
1) Right. Make sure it has the tab with the screw.
2) Right. But only if the thick Dakota or Sunny Hill BM is used. No need to shorten it with a std Rem 70 BM.
3) No. What I meant to say, is that the follower is milled aka 'machined'. It is a heavy duty follower. Unlike they newer followers which are stamped steel. Iron Brigade Armory sells the milled LA follower.
You wont have any feeding problems with the .308 rounds in a LA action. Make sure your action is from a floorplate donor rifle. The detachable mag Rem700 have the feed lips on the mag. You need the feed lips on the action.
Like said above, no mods to the mag boxe unless you use the thicker BM's.
Good luck with the build!
http://www.deathfromafar.com/htm/08_products_detail.php?id=268
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I appreciate you covering this to the level of detail I needed.
Thank you. I now understand what is going on.
Q5: Did the M24A2 ever have iron sights ?
Or was it ever an option ?
In other words, would iron sights on an A2 be "correct" or "incorrect" for ANY flavor or the A2 ?
Or was it ever an option ?
In other words, would iron sights on an A2 be "correct" or "incorrect" for ANY flavor or the A2 ?
Have to address this. FM 23-10 states:
#2-5 Loading & Unloading:
4) Ensure the bullet end of the cartridges is aligned towards the chamber.
(Important!! This means the pointy end needs to point forward!)
5) To ensure proper functioning, cartridges should be set fully rearward in the magazine.
(Also important!! Seat rounds all the way to the back of the mag box. Otherwise, a bolt-override is possible, or a cartridge stemming the chamber will occur. Of all the design flaws inherent with the SWS package, this one is its "Achilles Heel". Yet I've often thought about the forces of recoil, and how it causes the rounds to become seated in the forward-most position?)
Good info. This one makes me laugh
4) Ensure the bullet end of the cartridges is aligned towards the chamber.
(Important!! This means the pointy end needs to point forward!)
4) Ensure the bullet end of the cartridges is aligned towards the chamber.
(Important!! This means the pointy end needs to point forward!)
I'm grateful for the find and the price don't get me wrong! It is relative though seeing a scope with full deployment kit and irons go for $800 on armslist! I think that was major low-ball especially considering the cost of issue Redfield apreture irons, the issue container, and it also came with ARMS throw-lever rings! Anyway I'm still pleased. Mine came with current catologue Leupold rings painted green that I'll be selling as I don't need them I have the older Ultra rings.
Not sure if a Buttlercreek flip cap used with ARD is correct for issue but the #26 ojb cap fits great. All I need to get is a #17 eye pc cap.
Thanks mescabug bTW!
What you have there is NOT an EMA or EMA/ARD but instead a late model plastic version of the LFU and a 40LTC-ARD. Look back at my post on page 11 and Red6actual's and Lockedandloaded's posts on page 13. If you're looking for the REAL EMA/ARD there's one on eBay right now. They are rare as hen's teeth now, even more so of late, than the actual EMA itself. Better snatch it up fast and be prepared to pay big since they don't come around very often.
Killflash Unit M24 Ema Ard NSN 6650 01 456 6515 | eBay
Also there is a REAL EMA with a different killflash on eBay if you're interested.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Killflash-u...457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec93941e9
Neither one of these items are mine nor do I know who's selling them. Just trying to be helpful to those searching for parts.
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So what you're saying, is that even if the LFU and 40LTC-ARD were issued with the M24, they are not 'REAL'? Sorry if I sound confused, but I thought both version were issued. Maybe EMA/ARD is not the appropriate call sign for those late plastic version?
That's more or less correct. The LFU and 40LTC-ARD can work with the M3A scope but the threading is not exact. It's been my experience with them that when you lock the lock ring, the threads will slip and thus it comes loose. The LFU and 40LTC-ARD where made for the newer Mark 4 M3 3.5-10x Variable scopes that you see in use on the M14 EBRs. They can be be used with the M2 scopes found on the M110 but then again there is a new aluminum laser filter that was specifically made for the M110 system. The LFU and 40LTC-ARDs are REAL, they're just not what was issued with the M24 system. They are not what is referenced in any M24 Tech Manuals. I always found the name EMA, External Mount Assembly, a bit ambiguous myself as it bears no obvious meaning for what it is or it's intended purpose. Its a laser filter plain and simple. Now, could it be that you need to order a new one and the LFU is what you get? Could be. I no longer have access to the Army logistics system but the LFU could be classified as an authorized substitute since the EMA is out of production. Still it doesn't fit well and is really only a substitute, not a replacement.
As to the M24 follower questions;
the M24 follower is not milled and it is not a .30-06, it is is a cast part made specifically for the M24 and coated with thermal cure dry film lube, they are only available from Remington.
Even the magazine spring is an M24 specific part.
the M24 follower is not milled and it is not a .30-06, it is is a cast part made specifically for the M24 and coated with thermal cure dry film lube, they are only available from Remington.
Even the magazine spring is an M24 specific part.
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That's what I like about this forum, and this thread: excellent knowledge and thorough explanations. You are right, External Mount Assembly is quite ambiguous...
Right. My bad, the follower is cast. But, IMO, the spring is not a M24 specific part. There is a not a lot of information about the follower/spring so I thought I'd share some pictures.
1st picture: Left is a cast follower/spring from a M24, middle stamped steel from a 700P, right, milled from an early 70's Rem 700 (new BM though...)
Maybe I'm wrong, but the followers looks exactly the same to me... On all platforms, and they all have that film lube.
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If I were to build an M24A2 in stages, such that I start with building something close (and working) to an M24 w/ Drop Floorplate and internal magazine"
What parts and stock mods would I need ?
In short, I'd like to build up a "functional" M24 now, and minimize the parts/cost needed to convert to an M24A2 later.
The Box mag on the M24A2 would be the first feature of interest I would like to add.
I'd add "accessories" (accessories are those items beyond a functional rifle to make it more "correct" like iron sights, peilican case, optics , etc. ) as budget permits, thus slowly working towards a "more correct" M24.
This would allow me to build and enjoy an M24 (albeit not "correct" as I (and my budget) work towards "correctness")
M24 w/ Drop Floorplate
Get a blued Rem 700 LA ADL donor Rifle in 30-06 (Model # 7478, perhaps ?)
Remove the stock and barrel.
Get a Mike Rock M24 barrel, thread, headspace, chamber, and crown it.
Use the action/trigger(not authentic but will work) and bolt from the donor.
Use the ADL magazine with the "tab" from the donor ?
Use a HS Precision PST-024 stock (is this right??? ).
Obtain and attach Remington BDL bottom metal (stock cutout might be too big, but the BDL bottom metal will fit into it with some shimming).
(Note: I am looking for the cheapest way to get functional bottom metal, that will not be needed when converting to a DBM later)
No mods to ADL magazine.
to Convert to M24A2 DBM
Start with the above M24.
Discard BLD bottom metal.
Shorten ADL mag (per this thread's recommendation).
Install Badger DBM floorplate. P/N 306-84
I "know" this might not be 100% right...I would appreciate everyone's help to correct it.
What parts and stock mods would I need ?
In short, I'd like to build up a "functional" M24 now, and minimize the parts/cost needed to convert to an M24A2 later.
The Box mag on the M24A2 would be the first feature of interest I would like to add.
I'd add "accessories" (accessories are those items beyond a functional rifle to make it more "correct" like iron sights, peilican case, optics , etc. ) as budget permits, thus slowly working towards a "more correct" M24.
This would allow me to build and enjoy an M24 (albeit not "correct" as I (and my budget) work towards "correctness")
M24 w/ Drop Floorplate
Get a blued Rem 700 LA ADL donor Rifle in 30-06 (Model # 7478, perhaps ?)
Remove the stock and barrel.
Get a Mike Rock M24 barrel, thread, headspace, chamber, and crown it.
Use the action/trigger(not authentic but will work) and bolt from the donor.
Use the ADL magazine with the "tab" from the donor ?
Use a HS Precision PST-024 stock (is this right??? ).
Obtain and attach Remington BDL bottom metal (stock cutout might be too big, but the BDL bottom metal will fit into it with some shimming).
(Note: I am looking for the cheapest way to get functional bottom metal, that will not be needed when converting to a DBM later)
No mods to ADL magazine.
to Convert to M24A2 DBM
Start with the above M24.
Discard BLD bottom metal.
Shorten ADL mag (per this thread's recommendation).
Install Badger DBM floorplate. P/N 306-84
I "know" this might not be 100% right...I would appreciate everyone's help to correct it.
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I have a HS-Precision M24A2 Stock and the Badger Ordnance DBM floormetal and 3ea 5 round mags that I'm looking to sell. That's a good start for you. You can go back a few pages and see very the stock and the floor metal and magazines. The Badger DBM floormetal in no way uses any existing internal magazine components, they are removed before dropping in the DBM floormetal, so you can forgo the ADL mag modification.
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I know the BM metal topic has been beaten to death, but would it be possible to go with the Badger BM part# 306-03 and remain correct? Or is the ridiculously expensive Sunny Hill the only way to be "correct". From what I have read the Dakota version is NOT the correct BM, since it is too thin, and the Badger looks to be heavier. I also understand GAP uses Williams on their clones. Just trying to get away from spending over $400 just on BM alone.
If you call Dakota Arms directly, they may still have some of the orginal R700 "contract bottom metal" Make sure you let them know what its for, as the long action 510 will not fit the HSP PST24. The PST24 was inletted for the "contract bottom metal". not the standard BDL bottom metal. I was told to check with Dakota Arms by Don at HS Precision when I ordered my PST24 stock. I called Dakota Arms and found them very helpful, once they understood what I wanted. They still had a few of the "contract bottom metals" around when I called them last year. I ordered one and it was at my home in less than a week. I think it cost me around $200. It is thicker and a wider than the BDL bottom metal. It fit my HSP PST24 stock perfectly. I bought an older R700 for my donor and found the only difference in the follower, from the M24 follower I "aquired" overseas was that the follower from the donor was shiny, they follower from the "aquired" M24 was not. I will post some pictures when I can get them both together, hopefully in a couple months. PTG offers a good bang for the buck if you get their "Long action Military". I don't know if its the same diamentions as the Dakota / Sunny Hill or not. The Williams bottom metal fits the HSP PST11 stock which looks similar to the PST24 stock, but is inletted for the stand BDL bottom metal instead of the Dakota Arms / Sunny Hill. I don't know about the Badger Ordance other than they make a drop in DBM for the PST24 stock.
My advice is to read through the 21 pages on this thread and take notes, there is a lot of good information, some really OCD stuff that is helpfull, along with some total worthless stuff that is not, mostly at the begining. I think you can safely avoid most posts dealing with "Benchshoot" To get started you are going to need:
1. A long action R700 with a standard bolt face (for a 308) The mounting holes on top will need to be opened up from 6-48 to 8-40. You may have to have holes drilled and tapped on the side of your reciever for the rear iron sight mounts if it doesn't already have them from the factory.
2. A HSP PST24 stock
3. Dakota Arms "Contract Bottom Metal" or SunnyHill, possibly the Badger DBM
4. M24/M40 contour 5 R Barrel with 1-11.25" twist, Mike Rock if you want to be "original" I went with Bartlien for mine, I don't think anyone would know if i didn't tell them.
5. 1PC Ultra Base or 2 PC Leupold MK4 base (newer), I went with the Badger 1pc M24 base as its as close as I could find to the 1 PC Ultra
6. Leupold Ultra M3A or Leupold Mk4, M3 scope
7. Leupold Ultra 30mm Medium Rings or MK4 Medium 30mm Rings, I think Badger's would be acceptable as well
8. Correct front base for iron sights, I used a Redfield that looked identical to the ones made by the Remington custom shop. The newer rifles use OK Weber bases and sights
9 Correct rear base for mounting iron sight, if you are using a Redfield, you are looking for the WB490 that is modified. I had one made by Outback Gun Parts. It came with the correct modifications, you can just order the "Redfield M24 Rear base" from them and they will know what you mean.
10. Iron sights - I think this is pretty optional as I don't think anyone really uses them outside of the school house, but I got a set of Redfield Palma for the rear and a Big Bore Posa sight for the front.
11. The M24 box magazine is a modified ADL long action magazine box. The box needs to be shortened. The BDL box will fit and work flawlessly, but lacks the tab to attach it to the reciever with a small screw. I don't see how that is needed. I used the BDL box and it doesn't rattle or fall out when the bottom metal is opened. I bought a ADL Magazine box, but my builder didn't think it was necessary and neither did I.
12. I had Mike Lau modify my original "old style" R700 trigger to that of a M24 trigger.
Once you have all those parts, you can send it off to a competent builder. I used Texas Brigade Armory, but GAP and a host of other gunsmiths here on the site are more than capable. I would get pictures of the crown, so that is correct, along with the markings and stamps if you want those. I would finish it off with a flat black cerakote for an "older build" or possibly a black teflon for a newer build. I am sure I have missed a few things that others more OCD than myself with chime in on, but those are the basics.
My advice is to read through the 21 pages on this thread and take notes, there is a lot of good information, some really OCD stuff that is helpfull, along with some total worthless stuff that is not, mostly at the begining. I think you can safely avoid most posts dealing with "Benchshoot" To get started you are going to need:
1. A long action R700 with a standard bolt face (for a 308) The mounting holes on top will need to be opened up from 6-48 to 8-40. You may have to have holes drilled and tapped on the side of your reciever for the rear iron sight mounts if it doesn't already have them from the factory.
2. A HSP PST24 stock
3. Dakota Arms "Contract Bottom Metal" or SunnyHill, possibly the Badger DBM
4. M24/M40 contour 5 R Barrel with 1-11.25" twist, Mike Rock if you want to be "original" I went with Bartlien for mine, I don't think anyone would know if i didn't tell them.
5. 1PC Ultra Base or 2 PC Leupold MK4 base (newer), I went with the Badger 1pc M24 base as its as close as I could find to the 1 PC Ultra
6. Leupold Ultra M3A or Leupold Mk4, M3 scope
7. Leupold Ultra 30mm Medium Rings or MK4 Medium 30mm Rings, I think Badger's would be acceptable as well
8. Correct front base for iron sights, I used a Redfield that looked identical to the ones made by the Remington custom shop. The newer rifles use OK Weber bases and sights
9 Correct rear base for mounting iron sight, if you are using a Redfield, you are looking for the WB490 that is modified. I had one made by Outback Gun Parts. It came with the correct modifications, you can just order the "Redfield M24 Rear base" from them and they will know what you mean.
10. Iron sights - I think this is pretty optional as I don't think anyone really uses them outside of the school house, but I got a set of Redfield Palma for the rear and a Big Bore Posa sight for the front.
11. The M24 box magazine is a modified ADL long action magazine box. The box needs to be shortened. The BDL box will fit and work flawlessly, but lacks the tab to attach it to the reciever with a small screw. I don't see how that is needed. I used the BDL box and it doesn't rattle or fall out when the bottom metal is opened. I bought a ADL Magazine box, but my builder didn't think it was necessary and neither did I.
12. I had Mike Lau modify my original "old style" R700 trigger to that of a M24 trigger.
Once you have all those parts, you can send it off to a competent builder. I used Texas Brigade Armory, but GAP and a host of other gunsmiths here on the site are more than capable. I would get pictures of the crown, so that is correct, along with the markings and stamps if you want those. I would finish it off with a flat black cerakote for an "older build" or possibly a black teflon for a newer build. I am sure I have missed a few things that others more OCD than myself with chime in on, but those are the basics.
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1-Being done by Accurate Ordnance.
2-Have to get this ordered. Stocky's has one, but for some reason has a Palma barrel channel?
3-This is my current dilema. $415 for a "correct" BM, or hope Dakota still has a contract BM. Other than that go with an incorrect, but much cheaper BM.
4-Went with a Bartlein 1-11.25" myself.
5-Badger 1 piece ordered.
6-Already have a MK4 LR/T.
7-Leupold med rings ordered.
8-I have the .175 base, just like the Remington also.
9-Outback also made me a rear base. I do have the OK Weber's also.
10-I don't know if I will drop the money on those at the moment, maybe later.
11-I have the ADL parts ordered.
12-My trigger is on it's way to TBA being modified now.
Accurate Ordnance will be doing the finish work, I'm just hung up on the stupid bottom metal lol.
Since you mentiond OCD, the Dakota floor metal needs to be parkerized and then sent to Remington to get powder coated, if you want it correct that is...
I have an already modified ADL box magazine with screw if anyone is looking, needs to be refinished, send me a PM if interested.
Check with Stockies to make sure it's the PST24 stock not the PST11, the main difference is the inletting for both the bottom metal and the barrel contour. I would just call HSP, I had one within a month of my call. Don at HSP was the person that suggested I give Dakota Arms a call after making sure I knew that the inletting for the bottom metal was different on the PST24 and wouldn't take a standard BDL bottom metal. I didn't want to pay $400 dollars for a Sunnyhill either, I was pleasantly surprised the Dakota Arms was half the price. It comes "in the white" so as red6actual stated, it needs to be finished. I don't know if Mike Lau parkerized it before coating or not, so long as it doesn't chip, I don't think I will ever know, though I may ask the next time I speak to him.
The OK Weber front sight base is taller than the Redfield, it's a cheap part that is easy to get, so if you are going with the OK Weber rear base, I would order the front base from OK Weber as well.
I opted for the BDL magazine box because it fit, and I lacked the time to modifiy the box myself. When I asked Mike if he wanted me to send the ADL magazine box, he said no, it wouldn't be necessary. I have to admit it would be nice to have, so long as it didn't hurt the performance of my rifle in some way. I started out just wanting to build a rifle with the "feel" of a M24, but after getting the deal on the M3A Ultra scope, I slowly got sucked in by the darkside. It was a lot of fun collecting the parts along the way. I am not a machinest, so that was about as close to "building" a rifle as I could come. I am always impressed by those OCD individuals that have the skills to make and modify the pieces they need. I could have just ordered a M24 clone from Mike at TBA, but I don't think it would have been as much fun. I can't wait to get my rifle and see how it shoots.
The OK Weber front sight base is taller than the Redfield, it's a cheap part that is easy to get, so if you are going with the OK Weber rear base, I would order the front base from OK Weber as well.
I opted for the BDL magazine box because it fit, and I lacked the time to modifiy the box myself. When I asked Mike if he wanted me to send the ADL magazine box, he said no, it wouldn't be necessary. I have to admit it would be nice to have, so long as it didn't hurt the performance of my rifle in some way. I started out just wanting to build a rifle with the "feel" of a M24, but after getting the deal on the M3A Ultra scope, I slowly got sucked in by the darkside. It was a lot of fun collecting the parts along the way. I am not a machinest, so that was about as close to "building" a rifle as I could come. I am always impressed by those OCD individuals that have the skills to make and modify the pieces they need. I could have just ordered a M24 clone from Mike at TBA, but I don't think it would have been as much fun. I can't wait to get my rifle and see how it shoots.
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PST-024 vs PST-011
I love this thread
The differences between bottom metals have been covered thoroughly. I have both a PST-024 and PST-011 stocks. I compared both prior to assembly. I though sharing the results might help some of you understand the differences between both.
- As it has been said multiple times, the PST-024 is THE only stock that will fit the larger bottom metals and M24 contour barrel without any modifications whatsoever.
- The PST-011, and all other HS long action stock, need mods to accept the larger BM and the M24 barrel contour.
- Some people might think a standard BDL bottom metal from a donor Rem 700 will fit a PST-024 since it is smaller. WRONG. It doesnt fit.
- The PST-024 inlet is just a bit larger, but just enough so a standard BDL BM wiggles back and forth, and will not 'seat' on both pillars. Torquing the screws enough so it touches, the bottom metal will bend. It is also shorter in length and width, so there is gaps all around the BM.
- The PST-024 also has a small notch in the front pillar channel. This is very important. Its a clearance for the bottom metal front latch. Without it, the floorplate will hit the pillar channel, and wont fully open.
- Of course, a PST-011 is easily modified, but I strongly suggest you have your BM before hacking the stock..
- The top section is identical.
- The PST-011 barrel channel is made to accept a Remington Varmint barrel contour. It is not straight taper. Its a sporter profile with the shank area larger in diameter. The PST-024 has a straight taper channel and will accept a barrel contour of 1.250" at the shank and .930-.940" at the muzzle.
Left/top, is the PST-024. Right/bottom, PST-011. The last pictures is a standard BDL BM in both stock. As you can see, it doesnt fit the PST-024. I also posted links to the measurements pictures I took.
==================================
PST-024
Rear pillar channel depth: 8mm
Rear pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Rear pillar channel lenght: 19mm
Rear bottom metal section width: 29mm
Front bottom metal section width: 26mm
Front pillar channel depth: 9mm
Front pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Front pillar channel total lenght: 24mm
Front pillar identation: 7mm lenght, 10mm width
Barrel channel at the recoil lug: 36mm width X 16mm depth
Barrel channel at 3": 33mm width X 16mm depth
Barrel channel at muzzle: 31mm width X 14mm depth
===============================================
PST-011
Rear pillar channel depth: 7mm
Rear pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Rear pillar channel lenght: 17mm
Rear bottom metal section width: 27mm
Front bottom metal section width: 26mm
Front pillar channel depth: 7mm
Front pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Front pillar channel total lenght: 21mm
Barrel channel at the recoil lug: 36mm width X 16mm depth
Barrel channel at 3" (taper): 27mm width X 14mm depth
Barrel channel at muzzle: 26mm width X 11mm depth
PST-011 Photos by MescaBug | Photobucket
PST-024 Photos by MescaBug | Photobucket
I love this thread
The differences between bottom metals have been covered thoroughly. I have both a PST-024 and PST-011 stocks. I compared both prior to assembly. I though sharing the results might help some of you understand the differences between both.
- As it has been said multiple times, the PST-024 is THE only stock that will fit the larger bottom metals and M24 contour barrel without any modifications whatsoever.
- The PST-011, and all other HS long action stock, need mods to accept the larger BM and the M24 barrel contour.
- Some people might think a standard BDL bottom metal from a donor Rem 700 will fit a PST-024 since it is smaller. WRONG. It doesnt fit.
- The PST-024 inlet is just a bit larger, but just enough so a standard BDL BM wiggles back and forth, and will not 'seat' on both pillars. Torquing the screws enough so it touches, the bottom metal will bend. It is also shorter in length and width, so there is gaps all around the BM.
- The PST-024 also has a small notch in the front pillar channel. This is very important. Its a clearance for the bottom metal front latch. Without it, the floorplate will hit the pillar channel, and wont fully open.
- Of course, a PST-011 is easily modified, but I strongly suggest you have your BM before hacking the stock..
- The top section is identical.
- The PST-011 barrel channel is made to accept a Remington Varmint barrel contour. It is not straight taper. Its a sporter profile with the shank area larger in diameter. The PST-024 has a straight taper channel and will accept a barrel contour of 1.250" at the shank and .930-.940" at the muzzle.
Left/top, is the PST-024. Right/bottom, PST-011. The last pictures is a standard BDL BM in both stock. As you can see, it doesnt fit the PST-024. I also posted links to the measurements pictures I took.
==================================
PST-024
Rear pillar channel depth: 8mm
Rear pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Rear pillar channel lenght: 19mm
Rear bottom metal section width: 29mm
Front bottom metal section width: 26mm
Front pillar channel depth: 9mm
Front pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Front pillar channel total lenght: 24mm
Front pillar identation: 7mm lenght, 10mm width
Barrel channel at the recoil lug: 36mm width X 16mm depth
Barrel channel at 3": 33mm width X 16mm depth
Barrel channel at muzzle: 31mm width X 14mm depth
===============================================
PST-011
Rear pillar channel depth: 7mm
Rear pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Rear pillar channel lenght: 17mm
Rear bottom metal section width: 27mm
Front bottom metal section width: 26mm
Front pillar channel depth: 7mm
Front pillar channel width: +-16-17mm
Front pillar channel total lenght: 21mm
Barrel channel at the recoil lug: 36mm width X 16mm depth
Barrel channel at 3" (taper): 27mm width X 14mm depth
Barrel channel at muzzle: 26mm width X 11mm depth
PST-011 Photos by MescaBug | Photobucket
PST-024 Photos by MescaBug | Photobucket
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Anyone have photos of their Army issued spotting scopes and tripods they want to share? M49, M144, or the newer Leupold Mk4? Curious to see if anyone krusted theirs, or custom mods.
Per your request, a few more pics of the Badger DBM on a standard H-S Precsion PST-024 stock.
Could I get some info on which camo pattern this is from H-S Precision? Thanks!
Sure thing. I sent my Remington black stock back to H-S Precision for the Green Camo paint job. Very nice job, very resilient. Much better than Krylon or Aervo. Besides, I can paint over this anytime I like. The H-S paint green paint makes for a far better base than the black when the spray paint starts to wear off. Take a look at the H-S Precision pdf catalog. They'll show you all the patterns they will do.
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I need some help with details regarding the M144 Spotting scope.
I'm looking for pics of :
1) Scope, and markings (particularly anything to show differences with the B&L 15-45x60 "commercial" version)
2) Tripod and markings (or a recommeded "next best thing to the original" to help find a clone)
3) Accessories and markings - (did find a nice pic of the eyepiece cover here from red6actual here; since it is in an "ad" that might "go way" , it would be nice to have it moved here ...hint, hint )
Also, PDF of manuals:
1) TM 9-1240-411-12&P Operator's and Unit Maintenance Manual Including Repair Parts and Special Tools List Telescope, Straight: M144 - Nov. 1998
2) any others ?
I'm looking for pics of :
1) Scope, and markings (particularly anything to show differences with the B&L 15-45x60 "commercial" version)
2) Tripod and markings (or a recommeded "next best thing to the original" to help find a clone)
3) Accessories and markings - (did find a nice pic of the eyepiece cover here from red6actual here; since it is in an "ad" that might "go way" , it would be nice to have it moved here ...hint, hint )
Also, PDF of manuals:
1) TM 9-1240-411-12&P Operator's and Unit Maintenance Manual Including Repair Parts and Special Tools List Telescope, Straight: M144 - Nov. 1998
2) any others ?
The .308 feeds from the long action. The only thing to be done to the internal mag on the M24 is to shorten it. IIRC, from 38mm to 32mm. It is a Remington LA ADL mag box, with a screw to secure the mag to the action. The follower is milled.
The bottom metal is not the std Rem. Its either Dakota Arms, or Sunny Hills. It has been covered thoroughly in this thread.
When the mag box is shortened, does it keep the factory taper? or is it a straight cut? Thanks.
I'm building an M24 "mock-up" vs. an actual replica.
Wish I could have afforded to buy everything 100% accurate, but this is about as close as I can get.
The rifle is a Remington 700 S/A in .308 with a 26 inch barrel. M24/ M40 contour.
I still need to get a recessed crown cut into it.
H-S Precision stock, durakoated by L.T.M. Refinishing LLC in Desert GAP Camo, Harris bipod, magazine extender, Weaver base and Burris rings, and cheap WOTAC scope which broke as soon as it was bore-sighted. (T_T)
I have since bought an SWFA 10X42 scope to use in the meantime, and hope to buy a Leupold Mark 4 later.
I just bought a set of Leupold Mark 4 rings and I'm trying to decide whether to buy a Leupold Mark 4, one or two piece base.
Still got a ways to go yet.
I just ordered a set of iron sights from OK Weber.
I don't know if this was covered in this thread yet, because I didn't see it while I was looking through here.
But I was wondering if anyone knows how far back from the muzzle the front iron sight is mounted?
Lemmee know.
It's not a true replica, but I love it anyway.
Any help would be appreciated.
Wish I could have afforded to buy everything 100% accurate, but this is about as close as I can get.
The rifle is a Remington 700 S/A in .308 with a 26 inch barrel. M24/ M40 contour.
I still need to get a recessed crown cut into it.
H-S Precision stock, durakoated by L.T.M. Refinishing LLC in Desert GAP Camo, Harris bipod, magazine extender, Weaver base and Burris rings, and cheap WOTAC scope which broke as soon as it was bore-sighted. (T_T)
I have since bought an SWFA 10X42 scope to use in the meantime, and hope to buy a Leupold Mark 4 later.
I just bought a set of Leupold Mark 4 rings and I'm trying to decide whether to buy a Leupold Mark 4, one or two piece base.
Still got a ways to go yet.
I just ordered a set of iron sights from OK Weber.
I don't know if this was covered in this thread yet, because I didn't see it while I was looking through here.
But I was wondering if anyone knows how far back from the muzzle the front iron sight is mounted?
Lemmee know.
It's not a true replica, but I love it anyway.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Finally got mine finished up.
Chad Dixon with LongRifles Inc put it together for me.
Rem 700 LA C prefix action from '88-'89
PTG bolt with M16 extractor
300WM Obermeyer 25" SS 5R 1-10" w/Surefire Flash suppressor and OK Weber front sight block
HS M24 stock
M5 Bottom Metal
Badger M24 1 piece scope base
Leupold Mk4 M5A2 6.5-20x50 w/Horus reticle
Leupold Mk4 34mm rings
Cerakote Graphite black
Still need a rear sight base but it's not high on my priority list.
Chad Dixon with LongRifles Inc put it together for me.
Rem 700 LA C prefix action from '88-'89
PTG bolt with M16 extractor
300WM Obermeyer 25" SS 5R 1-10" w/Surefire Flash suppressor and OK Weber front sight block
HS M24 stock
M5 Bottom Metal
Badger M24 1 piece scope base
Leupold Mk4 M5A2 6.5-20x50 w/Horus reticle
Leupold Mk4 34mm rings
Cerakote Graphite black
Still need a rear sight base but it's not high on my priority list.
