A while back I experimented with torquing a 28" MTU barrel into my AT compared to just hand tight on the barrel + 50 in/lb on the quickloc screw because I wasn't confident hand tight only on the barrel was enough to rigidly retain a barrel that heavy.
I did notice a *tiny* bit better accuracy with the barrel torqued to 50 ft/lb and then tightening the quickloc screw to 50 in/lb compared to just hand tight on the barrel and then 50 in/lb on the quickloc screw, but my rifle never threw any occasional flyers or had accuracy issues with the barrel hand tight + 50 in/lb on the quickloc screw.
Of course, doing this means you can't do a barrel change without a barrel vice and action wrench.
I have a heavy palma 30" 300 PRC barrel on the way for my AXMC, and since I won't be swapping barrels on that rifle frequently I'll compare hand tight on the barrel + 50 in/lb on the quiclock screw to torquing the barrel to 50 ft/lb + 50 in/lb on the quickloc screw. IMO, it's hard to beat a standard torqued installation of the barrel onto the receiver for the most secure and rigid threaded joint possible, but that means no changing barrels in the field with only a hex key.
At the very least I'd pinch the rifle between my knees and crank down on the barrel with a strap wrench, or if your barrel has wrench flats cut into it give the wrench a few smacks with the palm of your hand to snug the barrel down to the receiver before tightening the quickloc screw. Either of those methods would allow you to change barrels in the field as long as you had the strap wrench or open end wrench with you.
Someone should find and post the video of Jacob from Rifles Only demonstrating his method of "quickchange" barrel swapping on his AW where he puts a wrench on the flats cut into the barrel and then mercilessly beats on the wrench with a hammer to loosen and then tighten the barrel. I'm sure that will make a few people cringe.
