Barrel Break In - How Important is it?

Here's the one I always post:




Oh, and barrel break in is a bunch of hokey. Gale McMillan himself admits that a buddy of his started the elaborate barrel break-in fad as a way to get people to burn up barrels faster. It seems the folks recommending this procedure to the OP is taking this to a whole new level.


Here is the link in reference to Gale McMillans comments on barrel break-in.

Barrel break-in (Gale McMillan)
 
I rolled through that entire Rex video a couple months ago. His channel is awesome, though I coulda done without 8 straight 40:00 videos on bore erosion and bore dynamics but you can't argue with his results.
 
FM 23-10 actually has a barrel break in procedure. Look it up, it is straight forward, and does not have any of the "magic" tricks involved, no steel wool, no shrunken heads, or magic beans.
 
My 260 barrel went 4068 rounds, no break in, my 308 has close to 9000 rounds, no break in, I simply clean when accuracy falls off, I understand the theory of break in, but the proof is has yet to show itself, if I sold barrels I would recommend break ins, if I sold cars/trucks I would recommend 7500 mile oil changes, if I sold computers I would not sell Macs, I fix 737s, I shoot on my time off, I got better things to do that don't conflict with actually shooting.
 
A. No, this topic will never end.

B. Barrel break-in really means "bore smoothing" to get rid of machining or hammer forging marks.

I have two .300 Win. mag. rifles.
-> The first is an HS Precision rifle made on a stainless Remington long action I sent them. THAT bore damn well better be hand lapped and "broken in" at the factory. (It is.)

-> The second is a Browning A-Bolt stainless stalker. I used a NECO kit and FIRE LAPPED the barrel with 35 rounds of bullets that I rolled in 3 grades of grit to smooth the barrel. I followed NECO's directions and got a bore that needs far less copper removal than when in factory condition. And yes, gentle shooters, that is the best way for an amateur to "break-in" a previously non-lapped barrel. It also does a bit of rounding off of the land corners to create a better gas seal, sorta like most 5-R rifling.

I'm now going to Fire Lapping on a Green River .22 LR octagonal barrel to open it up a bit in preparatioin for re-chambering it to .22 WMR. According to rimfire acuracy experts that cartridge "needs" a slightly larger bore for best accuracy when using jacketed bullets, whereas .22 LR rounds use only copper guilded bullets. That new octagonal barrel will go on my Ruger 96/22 lever gun,. then a custom Wenig stock. :eek:)
 
My current procedure is to start by hammering an over-sized bore brush as far into the barrel as I can, this sometimes requires the use of a tungsten punch rod and a 4 pound maul (especially if I'm cramming a 12ga brush into the barrel of a .308). I then load up the hottest round I can get my hands on and I shoot the embedded brush out of the barrel.
For final cleaning I soak some bore swabs in camping fuel and push them into the barrel to plug it, then spray some starter fluid in the chamber and seat a round as fast as possible to hold the starter fluid in (sort of like the chamber on a potato gun). Then fire the rifle to burn out any fouling or copper residue.
My dream is to engineer a system by which I could shoot a projectile that tows a bore snake through the barrel behind it (picture a smaller MCLC). Maybe I should contact the company that recommended the procedure to the OP and see if they could design that system for me? Maybe a bore snake with flaming sand paper wrapped around it?

Seriously though, there's a great Sticky at the top of one of the forums where a guy that's apparently pretty smart, talked to a bunch of other guys that are apparently pretty smart, and they came to the conclusion that the VAST majority of barrel "break in" procedures are unnecessary and in many cases cause more harm than good.
 
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My current procedure is to start by hammering an over-sized bore brush as far into the barrel as I can, this sometimes requires the use of a tungsten punch rod and a 4 pound maul (especially if I'm cramming a 12ga brush into the barrel of a .308). I then load up the hottest round I can get my hands on and I shoot the embedded brush out of the barrel.
For final cleaning I soak some bore brushes in the amping fuel and push them into the barrel to plug it, then spray some starter fluid in the chamber and seat a round as fast as possible to hold the starter fluid in (sort of like the chamber on a potato gun). Then fire the rifle to burn out any fouling or copper residue.
My dream is to engineer a system by which I could shoot a projectile that tows a bore snake through the barrel behind it. Maybe I should contact the company that recommended the procedure to the OP and see if they could design that system for me?

I'm busting a damn gut and my wife is pissed because I'm interrupting her movie!!!! maybe pack the barrel and bore with c4 and use a blasting cap?
 
If someone is concerned with smoothing out the machine marks in their new barrel, shoot a few of the TUBBs final finish and get on with life. When I was new to shooting, I did the whole barrel break-in thing, one shot and clean, then 3 shots and clean, then 5 and clean, etc. I NEVER noticed any difference in accuracy, barrel life, ease of cleaning, nothing but a few hundred dollars worth of wasted components and time. Now I get a barrel spun on and shoot it like I stole it.
 
I know I've posted on this thread once, but I thought I'd post the info from FM 23-10, Chap 2-3, Para C, Sec 17:



d. Barrel Break-in Procedure. To increase barrel life, accuracy, and reduce cleaning requirement the following barrel break-in procedure must be used. This procedure is best accomplished when the SWS is new or newly rebarreled. The break-in period is accomplished by polishing the barrel surface under heat and pressure. This procedure should only be done by qualified personnel. The barrel must be cleaned of all fouling, both powder and copper. The barrel is dried, and one round is fired. The barrel is then cleaned again using carbon cleaner and then copper cleaner. The barrel must be cleaned again, and another round is fired. The procedure must be repeated for a total of 10 rounds. After the 10th round the SWS is then tested for groups by firing three-round shot groups, with a complete barrel cleaning between shot groups for a total of five shot groups (15 rounds total).

The barrel is now broken in, and will provide superior accuracy and a longer usable barrel life. Additionally, the barrel will be easier to clean because the surface is smoother. Again the barrel should be cleaned at least every 50 rounds to increase the barrel life.
***** Of course the above was specifically for the M24, maybe other weapons would be in need of another procedure, if any. In my experience, the US Army has a few experts, along with a couple of rifles to experiment with, the above procedure was put in the FM for a reason-my guess is repeatable improvement. I've posted this for what it is worth. It doesn't tout any "special cleaner", or super bore brush etc., it is not pushing a product for sale. Far too many "special procedures" are put forth by "experts", that so often have a commercial interest in you buying X from them in order to be able to do it, I'm just saying.....
 
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I'm busting a damn gut and my wife is pissed because I'm interrupting her movie!!!! maybe pack the barrel and bore with c4 and use a blasting cap?

Excellent Idea!!!! As I currently have basically an endless supply of C4 these days I explained your idea to one of my guys and told him to get working on it. His one "issue" with the idea was that it was going to take too long to break off little bits of C4 and tamp them down the barrel, thereby negating all the positive effects of the C4 Barrel Break-In. We discussed building a big pile of C4 (with the wrapper off) and then hammering the rifle into it, but again, more work than we wanted to for a "simple" procedure.
We've now moved on to the next completely logical step and are going to use a strand of DetCord down the barrel. It's practically purpose-built for this.
The only issue we've found is that certain thicknesses of sandpaper wrapped around the DetCord make it too thick to make it down the bore. SO, I have another guy using a blowtorch to melt the plastic coating off of the DetCord to make it thin enough to get down the bore of some of the smaller rifles.
Once we get the charge/sandpaper combination perfected I'll let you know so you can post it somewhere as THE method for barrel break-in and we'll see how many people do it just because it's "recommended".
When it's all said and done, I'm pretty confident that our DetCord method will cause less damage to the bore than the method that started all this lunacy. I may even offer the DetCord/Sandpaper kit for sale on the "accessories" forum, do you think LowLight would let us SH brand it?
 
Excellent Idea!!!! As I currently have basically an endless supply of C4 these days I explained your idea to one of my guys and told him to get working on it. His one "issue" with the idea was that it was going to take too long to break off little bits of C4 and tamp them down the barrel, thereby negating all the positive effects of the C4 Barrel Break-In. We discussed building a big pile of C4 (with the wrapper off) and then hammering the rifle into it, but again, more work than we wanted to for a "simple" procedure.
We've now moved on to the next completely logical step and are going to use a strand of DetCord down the barrel. It's practically purpose-built for this.
The only issue we've found is that certain thicknesses of sandpaper wrapped around the DetCord make it too thick to make it down the bore. SO, I have another guy using a blowtorch to melt the plastic coating off of the DetCord to make it thin enough to get down the bore of some of the smaller rifles.


AWESOME IDEA With det cord. Whatever the plan is, please post pictures to show how effective the barrel break in was. Thanks!
Once we get the charge/sandpaper combination perfected I'll let you know so you can post it somewhere as THE method for barrel break-in and we'll see how many people do it just because it's "recommended".
When it's all said and done, I'm pretty confident that our DetCord method will cause less damage to the bore than the method that started all this lunacy. I may even offer the DetCord/Sandpaper kit for sale on the "accessories" forum, do you think LowLight would let us SH brand it?

Awesome idea to use Det Cord. Love it. Whatever you do, please post pictures so we can compare with not breaking the barrel in. Thanks!
 
I'm busting a gut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If any of you guys do that to one of our barrels I'll beat you over the head with it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'll add to the humor! Had a customer take a cordless drill on high speed (around 2000rpm) chucked on a wooden shaft and wrapped emery cloth or steel wool around the end of it. Then he proceeded to clean the carbon build up out of the throat of the chamber. Was worried about the carbon ring. He wrecked a min. of two if not three barrels. First blamed us for bad steel that the barrel was pushing metal. Then he blamed the gunsmith for using a dull reamer. How did we find out? The gunsmith saw him doing it to another barrel at a benchrest match. You gotta love it. $6000+ bucks into the gun and wrecks multiple barrels.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

Unbelieveable. What are you thoughts on foaming cleaners. Have any of your clients reported good or bad experiences.
 
Seen more barrels damaged from improper cleaning techniques / over cleaning then being shot out in the pistol world.

The common break in procedure was founded on need, a long time ago the alloys/steel used was not the quality of the material we receive from the mills now. The older materials (a long time ago) was filled with voids and or inclusions in the substrate. Shooting the old break in method helped to fill these voids and thus smooth your bore, once you cleaned it with a brush and heavy solvents you could remove most of the outer layers in the bore. Your next shot could then have a shift or cold bore adjustment.

Current materials from quality barrel manufacturers, to my knowledge, do not have inclusions, at least not our material. It passes a NDT inspected before it leaves the mill. No voids to fill = no break in procedure.

Anytime you use any solvents in your bore be sure to neutralize then and recoil them. They can and will continue to etch your barrel long after your cleaning . The chemicals and brushes can damage the bore if used improperly.

i only use the Otis System or a Bore Snake in my barrel (which is not very often), this keeps from any directional force being applied by a cleaning rod which can also damage bore/throat. I not only preferr to rarely use a brush in my guns, I actually snip a few bristles from the bore snake before I put it in my bag.

My main cleaning method is to use oil and patches with the Otis pull system until clean.

It is hard for people to stop the old break in procedure that is no longer valid since they think they are doing the "right thing". Different materials/manufacturing methods/heat treating may alter your cleaning method so consult with your barrel maker.

http://www.schuemann.com/Portals/0/Documentation/Webfile_Barrel_Cleaning.pdf

My 2 cents worth........after all I stayed at a holiday inn last night!
 
Awesome idea to use Det Cord. Love it. Whatever you do, please post pictures so we can compare with not breaking the barrel in. Thanks!

Okay, so I've completed the DetCord break-in process and have a pic. Problem is that I STILL can't manage to get a pic to upload. If someone would like to help me out on that I'll get the post-detcord picture up.
 
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Okay, I think I figured out posting pics. We'll see if this works. Unfortunately I forgot to take a "before" picture of the detcord down the barrel, but like a pregnant woman I can't
UN-F@#K a rifle:

 
Well done! Maybe you should send it to Accuracy Systems and let them know your results so they can post it on their website. (I bet you could get more det-cord or c-4 in a 338 barrel.)
 
I love it! Thanks guys.



Since I never get to post it, here is the proper procedure.

Proper Barrel Break-in Procedure - YouTube

Here's the one I always post:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_LvPjreNjg


FYI: This new forum is pretty frickin' awesome. Just paste the Youtube link in the post and it'll automatically embed it!


Oh, and barrel break in is a bunch of hokey. Gale McMillan himself admits that a buddy of his started the elaborate barrel break-in fad as a way to get people to burn up barrels faster. It seems the folks recommending this procedure to the OP is taking this to a whole new level.

Step 8: Place an order for another barrel....