Gunsmithing Barrel threading question and muzzle break recommendation

First thing to suggest is that you not break the muzzle but rather Brake the muzzle. First is bad second is helpful. If you look up muzzle brake on google you'll get a lot more good info. There are a lot of good brakes out there and picking the brake is probably the first thing to do. Once you know which you want you should have a thread spec for it and at that point you can find a smith to do that particular thread. Find someone who will cut the thread on the lathe rather than using a die as you will get a much more accurate thread. You may never need to remove the brake but down the line someone may want to put a suppressor on it and the thread needs to be straight and concentric with the bore....moreso than with a brake. I don't know anyone in the cincy area so not much help there.

Frank
 
The APA little bastard looks good and is probably one of the most effective, but it's extremely annoying to the shooter and anyone around. Karl Kampfeld makes a nice tri port similar without the rearward angle so it's not quite as obnoxious.

As far as a shop, I don't know of anyone down there, but in Ohio you've got me near Toledo and Short Action Customs over in Wellington.
 
I was looking at those and I really like the look and I have read that they are super effective but on the website it says they come in stainless or steel. Is the steel painted black or is it bare. I have also been looking at the badger fte but I don't know if I like the clamp on design


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Ross Schuler brake. Good, cheap, fast service. $45.

Short Action Customs in Ohio did mine. Cut back barrel a bit, recrowned, threaded, contoured brake, timed, installed, Cerkoted. $125 and was in the shop less than 36 hours.
 
My Surefire 5/8x24 muzzle brake works great. Have it on a Tikka T3 lite in .308. Thing kicked like .338 Lapua with a brake on it. Now my Tikka kicks like my Ruger SR-556! Highly recommend the SOCOM Brake.