Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
- Thread starter citabria
- Start date
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
yes . They will hold up their end of the bargain. If you can afford to feed it they are accurate. Scope choice is critical.
yes . They will hold up their end of the bargain. If you can afford to feed it they are accurate. Scope choice is critical.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
Yes I've had a fare amount of experience with the m107 over the last year, as far as employing the weapon in a hard target interdiction role. Understanding your plans for the rifle, might make it easier to give you advice about it.
My experience with the m107 has been surprisingly positive in terms of accuracy. A lot folks (myself included at one time) are quite disgusted with the accuracy of the m107, generally 3 MOA is considered standard. However I've found accuracy is very much dependent on shooter ability and the quality of ammunition.
My first experience with the m107 produced 2-4 MOA groups. This was firing m33 and m8 from ranges of 100m to 1200m. Needless to say I wrote the system off, finding the accuracy unsuitable for long range applications to the point of turning the weapon system back into the BN Armour and telling him he could keep that POS. I found this completely mirrored my earlier experiences with the m82a1.
Now flash forward to about a year ago I found my self deployed to SE Afghanistan. After the first few months in country I found myself in more than one engagement where I had shots shots on dudes over 2000m. At that time I was rolling with the mk13 and 1800-1900m was about the all realistic range I was going to get. So I called up the B team and had them fly out a m107. Low and behold it was the same goddamn POS rifle I had turned. Since beggars can be choosers I sat down and tried to figure out how I was going to make it work.
Very first thing I did was got rid of that POS Leupold mk4 4.5x14, God I fucking hate that thing. I ended up mounting my personal mk 4 ER/T 6.5-20x50mm M5A FFP (w/H-58) in the LaRue OBR mount. I decide to try some mk211 as I had heard some good reports about accuracy.
On top of all this one needs to remember that the m107 is a .50 cal, recoil operated, semi-auto rifle. You HAVE to dive it or it is going to dive you. Now I pretty much grew up shooting bolt guns and it has always been a real pain trying to shoot gas gun (m110 was the bane of my life for a while).
Recoil control and management is everything when trying to shoot this rifle accurately. It honestly took me about a week of shooting this thing every day (+100rnds daily) to really get a feel for it. By the end of the week I was getting first round hits out to 1500m and engaging man size targets out to 3200m.
Another thing to note is the m107 has a relatively thin barrel for a .50 cal, doesn't take much to heat that barrel up. I found anything over 10-15rnds and things would start to crazy.
As far as reliability goes I can't really say. My rifle has be around the block once or twice and had one hell of a hard life before I got it. Stove piping was a common event and stuck casings seemed to happen after 60-80rnds. I just did my best to keep it the action cleaned on missions and during shooting sessions I'd cleaned the chamber every 50-60rnds. That seems to solve most of those issues, though I never left the wire with out a cleaning rod, damn casing seem to get stuck at the worse times.
Yes I've had a fare amount of experience with the m107 over the last year, as far as employing the weapon in a hard target interdiction role. Understanding your plans for the rifle, might make it easier to give you advice about it.
My experience with the m107 has been surprisingly positive in terms of accuracy. A lot folks (myself included at one time) are quite disgusted with the accuracy of the m107, generally 3 MOA is considered standard. However I've found accuracy is very much dependent on shooter ability and the quality of ammunition.
My first experience with the m107 produced 2-4 MOA groups. This was firing m33 and m8 from ranges of 100m to 1200m. Needless to say I wrote the system off, finding the accuracy unsuitable for long range applications to the point of turning the weapon system back into the BN Armour and telling him he could keep that POS. I found this completely mirrored my earlier experiences with the m82a1.
Now flash forward to about a year ago I found my self deployed to SE Afghanistan. After the first few months in country I found myself in more than one engagement where I had shots shots on dudes over 2000m. At that time I was rolling with the mk13 and 1800-1900m was about the all realistic range I was going to get. So I called up the B team and had them fly out a m107. Low and behold it was the same goddamn POS rifle I had turned. Since beggars can be choosers I sat down and tried to figure out how I was going to make it work.
Very first thing I did was got rid of that POS Leupold mk4 4.5x14, God I fucking hate that thing. I ended up mounting my personal mk 4 ER/T 6.5-20x50mm M5A FFP (w/H-58) in the LaRue OBR mount. I decide to try some mk211 as I had heard some good reports about accuracy.
On top of all this one needs to remember that the m107 is a .50 cal, recoil operated, semi-auto rifle. You HAVE to dive it or it is going to dive you. Now I pretty much grew up shooting bolt guns and it has always been a real pain trying to shoot gas gun (m110 was the bane of my life for a while).
Recoil control and management is everything when trying to shoot this rifle accurately. It honestly took me about a week of shooting this thing every day (+100rnds daily) to really get a feel for it. By the end of the week I was getting first round hits out to 1500m and engaging man size targets out to 3200m.
Another thing to note is the m107 has a relatively thin barrel for a .50 cal, doesn't take much to heat that barrel up. I found anything over 10-15rnds and things would start to crazy.
As far as reliability goes I can't really say. My rifle has be around the block once or twice and had one hell of a hard life before I got it. Stove piping was a common event and stuck casings seemed to happen after 60-80rnds. I just did my best to keep it the action cleaned on missions and during shooting sessions I'd cleaned the chamber every 50-60rnds. That seems to solve most of those issues, though I never left the wire with out a cleaning rod, damn casing seem to get stuck at the worse times.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: citabria</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone had any experience with this gun with accuracy and reliability. </div></div>
For this kinda cash if it was me I would get the HTI .50. I know it's a bolt action, but it's a great design and shoots lights out. Shorter and lighter than just about any other .50 and more accurate to boot. You always have the option of the .375 Cheytac conversion as well.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: citabria</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone had any experience with this gun with accuracy and reliability. </div></div>
For this kinda cash if it was me I would get the HTI .50. I know it's a bolt action, but it's a great design and shoots lights out. Shorter and lighter than just about any other .50 and more accurate to boot. You always have the option of the .375 Cheytac conversion as well.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
I don't mean to get too far off topic but:
RoBird - When you say you have to dive it or it will dive you?
Also What are the primary differences between shooting a gas gun and a bolt gun of similar power and accuracy?
I don't mean to get too far off topic but:
RoBird - When you say you have to dive it or it will dive you?
Also What are the primary differences between shooting a gas gun and a bolt gun of similar power and accuracy?
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
I have not had any reliability problems but I also have not shot 100+ rounds at a sitting and typically clean after range sessions.
If I am using good quality ammo the accuracy is reasonable. I do not think it is bolt gun accurate but I can shoot it more accurately because I do not flinch worrying about the recoil. Will surplus machine gun ammo I had about 5-inches at 200 yards.
I am using a Nightforce as an optic for it and am happy with it.
I have not had any reliability problems but I also have not shot 100+ rounds at a sitting and typically clean after range sessions.
If I am using good quality ammo the accuracy is reasonable. I do not think it is bolt gun accurate but I can shoot it more accurately because I do not flinch worrying about the recoil. Will surplus machine gun ammo I had about 5-inches at 200 yards.
I am using a Nightforce as an optic for it and am happy with it.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
I have an M82 CQ which is not the 107a model but it has been dead nuts reliable and very accurate. I can tell you that it is very well accepted that the 20" CQ models are much more accurate than the long barrel which i believe is because of the barrel harmonics. With 690g ball ammo at 100 yards mine is easily an 1 MOA rifle. Here is my target from when i first got my rifle. This target comprised of two 5-shot groups. Cant complain much about this accuracy
I have an M82 CQ which is not the 107a model but it has been dead nuts reliable and very accurate. I can tell you that it is very well accepted that the 20" CQ models are much more accurate than the long barrel which i believe is because of the barrel harmonics. With 690g ball ammo at 100 yards mine is easily an 1 MOA rifle. Here is my target from when i first got my rifle. This target comprised of two 5-shot groups. Cant complain much about this accuracy
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
That is some nice shooting.
I have a M82A1, but mostly shoot surplus ball ammo out of it. Never have shot it past about 400yds, but can hit things regularly at that distance.
That is some nice shooting.
I have a M82A1, but mostly shoot surplus ball ammo out of it. Never have shot it past about 400yds, but can hit things regularly at that distance.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
the m82a1 and the 107 are more accurate then most shooters are. garenteed sub-MOA and if their not send them back barret will fix the problem no-questions asked. they have a wonderfull customer-service department. but at 7-10k they can afford tobe
i my self am a m99 man myself mostly i can afford a semi-auto but have been on the reciving end of the butt-stock. very very fine platform.
they love warm rounds, set your ammo out in the sun if you can it will increase your muzzle vlosity and the %-atge of burn will increase the closer to 110 degrees you can get it the powder.
the m82a1 and the 107 are more accurate then most shooters are. garenteed sub-MOA and if their not send them back barret will fix the problem no-questions asked. they have a wonderfull customer-service department. but at 7-10k they can afford tobe
i my self am a m99 man myself mostly i can afford a semi-auto but have been on the reciving end of the butt-stock. very very fine platform.
they love warm rounds, set your ammo out in the sun if you can it will increase your muzzle vlosity and the %-atge of burn will increase the closer to 110 degrees you can get it the powder.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Randoman5</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't mean to get too far off topic but:
RoBird - When you say you have to dive it or it will dive you?
Also What are the primary differences between shooting a gas gun and a bolt gun of similar power and accuracy? </div></div>
Hey sorry, that's a typo the word I was looking for was drive not dive. As far as "drive" allow me to do my best to lay out my understanding.
From my experience I've found that shooting bolt guns is not the same as gas guns. I started shooting long range while in the Army, the m24 was the first platform I used. For those who have spend some time behind the m24, I'm sure most would agree with the statement that the m24 will damn near shoot it's self. I general load the bi-pods just enough to keep the rifle in my shoulder and I hardly touch the pistol grip with my thumb resting across the top, the pad of my trigger finger centered natural on the lower part of the trigger. Now combined that hold, plus the rest of the basics, good lot of ammo and 1/2 MOA is general the result, I find the this is akin to letting the rifle drive and the shooter is just along for the ride if that makes any sense. I found this works more or less with every type of bolt gun I've shot, even the McMillan Tac 50 seemed to like it.
Now enter the m110, my first experience with a semi-auto precession platform. The first time out I was struggling to keep the rifle sub 1.5 MOA at 100m. My method for shooting the m24 did not transition well at all and I'm not the only one. A lot of "old timers" hate the m110 for many reasons and poor accuracy is often sited. I started to complain quietly to myself that the my m110 was a POS and my instructor over heard me and offered to give the gun a run. He proceeded to shoot a 10rnd group that was hovering some wheres around 3/4 MOA, in all fairness he won the International Sniper Comp a few years back.
After that little demo and some more advice I completely rebuilt my method for shooting gas guns, everything from the mk12 to the m110 to the m107. I generally like to get a good heavy load on the bi-pods, the bi-pods on the m107 are great for this. I try to get most of my body weight tight in behind the gun. My support hand usually grips the butt stock hook firmly and drives the butt stock strait into the shoulder. I've found I have to be careful and make sure that the pressure is in fact straight back and not off to the side. My firing hand grips the pistol grip firmly pulling it straight back to the rear being careful once again to not torque the pistol grip left or right. Trigger finger goes straight back just like anything else. In general you want to make sure the pressure you apply to the rifle is done in a balanced and consistent manner and in line to the axis of the bore. The idea is that by adding balanced and consistent pressure to the rifle your are taking up any slack in the system and creating a stable and repeatable shooting position. Gas guns tend to have a lot more moving parts that bolt guns and with more things happening from the time you pull the trigger to when the bullet actually leaves the barrel you have to do your best to make sure you do everything the same way every time.
Hopefully that gives a better idea of what I meant my "driving". The topic of driving semi autos is not a new one and I'm sure if you dig around here somewhere is a even better tread with some wiser folks inputs. Now sorry I didn't want to get to off topic, so looping back to the m107. I've found in order to get good accuracy knowing how to drive the rifle is paramount. The Recoil of the m107 is not particularly bone crushing but it certainly can become fatiguing both physically and mentally. Having a solid understanding of what you doing will say you a lot of time frustration and money.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Randoman5</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't mean to get too far off topic but:
RoBird - When you say you have to dive it or it will dive you?
Also What are the primary differences between shooting a gas gun and a bolt gun of similar power and accuracy? </div></div>
Hey sorry, that's a typo the word I was looking for was drive not dive. As far as "drive" allow me to do my best to lay out my understanding.
From my experience I've found that shooting bolt guns is not the same as gas guns. I started shooting long range while in the Army, the m24 was the first platform I used. For those who have spend some time behind the m24, I'm sure most would agree with the statement that the m24 will damn near shoot it's self. I general load the bi-pods just enough to keep the rifle in my shoulder and I hardly touch the pistol grip with my thumb resting across the top, the pad of my trigger finger centered natural on the lower part of the trigger. Now combined that hold, plus the rest of the basics, good lot of ammo and 1/2 MOA is general the result, I find the this is akin to letting the rifle drive and the shooter is just along for the ride if that makes any sense. I found this works more or less with every type of bolt gun I've shot, even the McMillan Tac 50 seemed to like it.
Now enter the m110, my first experience with a semi-auto precession platform. The first time out I was struggling to keep the rifle sub 1.5 MOA at 100m. My method for shooting the m24 did not transition well at all and I'm not the only one. A lot of "old timers" hate the m110 for many reasons and poor accuracy is often sited. I started to complain quietly to myself that the my m110 was a POS and my instructor over heard me and offered to give the gun a run. He proceeded to shoot a 10rnd group that was hovering some wheres around 3/4 MOA, in all fairness he won the International Sniper Comp a few years back.
After that little demo and some more advice I completely rebuilt my method for shooting gas guns, everything from the mk12 to the m110 to the m107. I generally like to get a good heavy load on the bi-pods, the bi-pods on the m107 are great for this. I try to get most of my body weight tight in behind the gun. My support hand usually grips the butt stock hook firmly and drives the butt stock strait into the shoulder. I've found I have to be careful and make sure that the pressure is in fact straight back and not off to the side. My firing hand grips the pistol grip firmly pulling it straight back to the rear being careful once again to not torque the pistol grip left or right. Trigger finger goes straight back just like anything else. In general you want to make sure the pressure you apply to the rifle is done in a balanced and consistent manner and in line to the axis of the bore. The idea is that by adding balanced and consistent pressure to the rifle your are taking up any slack in the system and creating a stable and repeatable shooting position. Gas guns tend to have a lot more moving parts that bolt guns and with more things happening from the time you pull the trigger to when the bullet actually leaves the barrel you have to do your best to make sure you do everything the same way every time.
Hopefully that gives a better idea of what I meant my "driving". The topic of driving semi autos is not a new one and I'm sure if you dig around here somewhere is a even better tread with some wiser folks inputs. Now sorry I didn't want to get to off topic, so looping back to the m107. I've found in order to get good accuracy knowing how to drive the rifle is paramount. The Recoil of the m107 is not particularly bone crushing but it certainly can become fatiguing both physically and mentally. Having a solid understanding of what you doing will say you a lot of time frustration and money.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
Damn bro, those are some nice groups. Shocking that ball produced those. I've always wondered about the 82/107's barrel harmonics. Have you every watched a slow motion video of the 107 firing? I wouldn't recommend it, the barrel whip is sickening.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: alpha6164</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have an M82 CQ which is not the 107a model but it has been dead nuts reliable and very accurate. I can tell you that it is very well accepted that the 20" CQ models are much more accurate than the long barrel which i believe is because of the barrel harmonics. With 690g ball ammo at 100 yards mine is easily an 1 MOA rifle. Here is my target from when i first got my rifle. This target comprised of two 5-shot groups. Cant complain much about this accuracy
</div></div>
Damn bro, those are some nice groups. Shocking that ball produced those. I've always wondered about the 82/107's barrel harmonics. Have you every watched a slow motion video of the 107 firing? I wouldn't recommend it, the barrel whip is sickening.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: alpha6164</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have an M82 CQ which is not the 107a model but it has been dead nuts reliable and very accurate. I can tell you that it is very well accepted that the 20" CQ models are much more accurate than the long barrel which i believe is because of the barrel harmonics. With 690g ball ammo at 100 yards mine is easily an 1 MOA rifle. Here is my target from when i first got my rifle. This target comprised of two 5-shot groups. Cant complain much about this accuracy
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cowboy1978</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the m82a1 and the 107 are more accurate then most shooters are. garenteed sub-MOA and if their not send them back barret will fix the problem no-questions asked. they have a wonderfull customer-service department. but at 7-10k they can afford tobe
i my self am a m99 man myself mostly i can afford a semi-auto but have been on the reciving end of the butt-stock. very very fine platform.
they love warm rounds, set your ammo out in the sun if you can it will increase your muzzle vlosity and the %-atge of burn will increase the closer to 110 degrees you can get it the powder. </div></div>
Total agree about the warm rounds, I have no idea what powder they are stuffing in mk211 these days but that shit is super temp sensitive. I zeroed and trued my 107 at 110*F (ammo was roughly the same temp) with a muzzle velocity of 2712fps. As the temps have decreased from summer to fall I've noticed for every degree lost I lose about 1 fps, setting at 78*F with a muzzle velocity of 2686fps now.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cowboy1978</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the m82a1 and the 107 are more accurate then most shooters are. garenteed sub-MOA and if their not send them back barret will fix the problem no-questions asked. they have a wonderfull customer-service department. but at 7-10k they can afford tobe
i my self am a m99 man myself mostly i can afford a semi-auto but have been on the reciving end of the butt-stock. very very fine platform.
they love warm rounds, set your ammo out in the sun if you can it will increase your muzzle vlosity and the %-atge of burn will increase the closer to 110 degrees you can get it the powder. </div></div>
Total agree about the warm rounds, I have no idea what powder they are stuffing in mk211 these days but that shit is super temp sensitive. I zeroed and trued my 107 at 110*F (ammo was roughly the same temp) with a muzzle velocity of 2712fps. As the temps have decreased from summer to fall I've noticed for every degree lost I lose about 1 fps, setting at 78*F with a muzzle velocity of 2686fps now.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RoBird</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Damn bro, those are some nice groups. Shocking that ball produced those. I've always wondered about the 82/107's barrel harmonics. Have you every watched a slow motion video of the 107 firing? I wouldn't recommend it, the barrel whip is sickening.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: alpha6164</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have an M82 CQ which is not the 107a model but it has been dead nuts reliable and very accurate. I can tell you that it is very well accepted that the 20" CQ models are much more accurate than the long barrel which i believe is because of the barrel harmonics. With 690g ball ammo at 100 yards mine is easily an 1 MOA rifle. Here is my target from when i first got my rifle. This target comprised of two 5-shot groups. Cant complain much about this accuracy
</div></div> </div></div>
Yep, that is straight ball ammo hand loaded by me. I really believe the 20" barrel is the way to go. I have spoken to Lin at Schryver and he knows his 50BMG and he also agrees that the CQ is way more accurate. Besides that i believe so many people no matter what are somewhat overwhelmed with the recoil, blast and idea of getting behind the 50BMG and many times just dont shoot as well as if it was a 308.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RoBird</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Damn bro, those are some nice groups. Shocking that ball produced those. I've always wondered about the 82/107's barrel harmonics. Have you every watched a slow motion video of the 107 firing? I wouldn't recommend it, the barrel whip is sickening.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: alpha6164</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have an M82 CQ which is not the 107a model but it has been dead nuts reliable and very accurate. I can tell you that it is very well accepted that the 20" CQ models are much more accurate than the long barrel which i believe is because of the barrel harmonics. With 690g ball ammo at 100 yards mine is easily an 1 MOA rifle. Here is my target from when i first got my rifle. This target comprised of two 5-shot groups. Cant complain much about this accuracy
Yep, that is straight ball ammo hand loaded by me. I really believe the 20" barrel is the way to go. I have spoken to Lin at Schryver and he knows his 50BMG and he also agrees that the CQ is way more accurate. Besides that i believe so many people no matter what are somewhat overwhelmed with the recoil, blast and idea of getting behind the 50BMG and many times just dont shoot as well as if it was a 308.
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mlh29</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Scope choice is critical. </div></div>
Why do you say this? What scope would you recommend for it and why?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mlh29</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Scope choice is critical. </div></div>
Why do you say this? What scope would you recommend for it and why?
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
50 cal reeks havoc on a optic system. it will litterer shake it apart. you have to have an optic designed to handle the wear-n-tear. ive seen a lens poped right out of a lesser optic.
weaver tactial
leapold mkIV
us optics
vortex hd, psd, viper
so on........
50 cal reeks havoc on a optic system. it will litterer shake it apart. you have to have an optic designed to handle the wear-n-tear. ive seen a lens poped right out of a lesser optic.
weaver tactial
leapold mkIV
us optics
vortex hd, psd, viper
so on........
Re: Barrett model 107 a1 50cal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stalski</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ah OK, just general 'don't use crap optics on 50s'.
I hear ya...thought you meant on this one specifically. </div></div>
Even middle of the road optics do not have the proper support for the lenses to withstand the 50 recoil. When I was looking Swarovski, Nightforce, and Schmidt & Bender had the support around the circumference of the lens rather than a piece of spring steel on the top and bottom.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stalski</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ah OK, just general 'don't use crap optics on 50s'.
I hear ya...thought you meant on this one specifically. </div></div>
Even middle of the road optics do not have the proper support for the lenses to withstand the 50 recoil. When I was looking Swarovski, Nightforce, and Schmidt & Bender had the support around the circumference of the lens rather than a piece of spring steel on the top and bottom.
Similar threads
