Gunsmithing Basic Starter Tool Kit

[WG871]

Hello,
I am new here so bear with me. I am wondering if anyone could reccomend a good basic "starter" tool kit, something that will have most of what a beginner would need for rails, scope mounts, action screws, basic gunsmithing for a remington 700.
Thanks in advance

 

[Big Toby]

Hello,
I am new here so bear with me. I am wondering if anyone could reccomend a good basic "starter" tool kit, something that will have most of what a beginner would need for rails, scope mounts, action screws, basic gunsmithing for a remington 700.
Thanks in advance

.
Five pound deadblow
36 inch pipe wrench
acetylene torch set

JUST KIDDING

Start with a good gunsmith screwdriver set, A good set of pin punches (Starret is worth the 45 bucks) And depending on how far you are going hit Brownells up for one of their 700 bolt dis-assembly kits. Oh and a STICK of Loctite

JWP

 

[Jhnmdahl]

Big Toby's list is a great start. I'd add a set of hex wrenches (Home Depot/Lowes quality is fine). Beyond that, I'd wait until you need something so you don't blow your cash on a scope ring lapper when you really want a bolt dis-assembly tool. Brownells has a nice selection of tools for gunsmithing.

John

 

[Trigger Monkey]

My basic tool list would go as follows:

Gunsmith's Screwdriver set - I'm still using the set I bought from Walmart years ago because it was cheap and likewise the bits were cheap and some broke, moral of this story is don't go cheap on the screwdriver set.

Precision Screwdriver Set - These are useful for adjusting trigger screws and other small jobs. I buy the cheap ones because I constantly loose one or two of the drivers.

Torque Wrench - When I started out I bought two Seekonk wrenches and associated bits, one for 65 in/lbs, one for 15 in/lbs. The Seekonk wrenches are a great product but limiting in terms of versatility. Spend the money on the Borka Tools Torque Wrench, I've been using mine for a couple years and love it, simple, light, and has multiple settings for common torque values when dealling with rifles.

Pin Punch Set - I've been using the same Lyman set for years now, it works and don't see any reason to "upgrade" except that I plan to get some roll pin punches soon.

Hammers - I have a dead blow hammer and never use it but I've found a little ball peen hammer to be really useful and for when I don't want to mar something I have a hammer than has a hard rubber head and a hard plastic head.

Vice - A good vice is essential. When I bought my vice I also bought a set of pads from Brownells that are made from aluminum with an elastomer surface that grips well and doesn't mar the surface finish, these are worth their weight in gold. Of course before that I simply used a couple pieces of masonite board from a drawer, not pretty but functional.

Allen and Torx Drivers - I think it's a good idea to get a set of folding allen and torx wrenches, they're just handy to have when you don't want to dig through the umpteen bits to find the one you need.

LED Light - Great for checking out the dark corners of a rifle or a drawer or a scary room...which ever.

It might also be a good idea to have some common adhesives and such like red and blue Loctite, some super glue, and JB Weld for the little things that come up. Out of all of the tools that I have on, in, and underneath my work bench those are probably the ones that get used the most. Well that's not true, I didn't list the Dremel tool...a home gunsmith's bestest buddy..however a word of caution...a Dremel can be your best friend on a project or a complete cash suck that causes you to have to buy things twice and work three times as hard. If you get one just remember slow and steady. Hope the list helps.

 

[KTDLS7]

All great suggestions in previous posts, depending on "depth" of tools. I will add +1 for the Borka torque driver. Check out the Borka kits, as they come with most bits. Regarding screwdrivers / screwdriver bits, I hope you noticed the fact everyone said "gunsmith drivers". You will damage screw heads using the wrong tool. Do not "cheap-out", as good tools will last several lifetimes.

Kevin

 

[kanaga]

question about pin punches

.
Five pound deadblow
36 inch pipe wrench
acetylene torch set

JUST KIDDING

Start with a good gunsmith screwdriver set, A good set of pin punches (Starret is worth the 45 bucks) And depending on how far you are going hit Brownells up for one of their 700 bolt dis-assembly kits. Oh and a STICK of Loctite

JWP

is there any meaningfull difference between the starret pin punches available at brownells and a set of bostich punches available at lowes ($12.58 for a set of 6)
Shop Bostitch 6-Piece Pin Punch Set at Lowes.com

 

[nashlaw]

Without reading other suggestions, here are my recommendations........

4 oz ball peen hammer
set of punches
Chapman screwdriver set- get Brownells big set later
Precision screwdriver set. Don't go cheap on this one
Borka torque set
clear fingernail polish for trigger screws
Nylon bench block.... or buy one after you spend years chasing pins and scarring finishes
Dremel..... use sparingly
non-marring rubber hammer. A heavy one
Decker rifle vise

 

[ajwcotton]

is there any meaningfull difference between the starret pin punches available at brownells and a set of bostich punches available at lowes ($12.58 for a set of 6)
Shop Bostitch 6-Piece Pin Punch Set at Lowes.com

Absolutely, by the time you break and replace the 1/16 punch 3 or 4 times you could have bought the starret set. Roll pin punches are also quite valuable as well, the starters and drivers. A brass hammer 8 or 10 oz is the best kind of hammer to use it grips the punch and doesn't slip. In fact a hammer that is brass with a plastic side is quite useful.

 

[Straight Shooter]

Even the Starrett smaller punches are not indestructible. Once you break them dress them up and use them as a starter punch. I buy the 1/16 punch by the 5 pack. AR sight blocks are very hard on them.

Here is some of what is in bench tool box and on my work bench. This would be the advanced Remington 700 work bench set. You can collect the tools as the need arise. Some of these you may never need.

1. Safety glasses. I use the cool ones with the 1.5 power reader in the bottom of them. As I near 50 the eyes aren't what they used to be.
2. Remington's only need some basic screw drivers, allen and torx drivers but as you do more you will end up needing a good set like Brownells sells.
3. A plastic bench block to help keep the action from getting marked up and to contain the pins when they come through.
4. The Starrett punches really are the best. Anything else is a waste of money.
5. A small Starrett pocket level for leveling scopes
6. Wheeler scope ring alignment and lapping bar set.
7. Lazer bore sighter
8. Assortment of brass punches for drifting sights.
9. A couple plastic punches for drifting sights.
10. Pointy center punch for staking.
11. Roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches.
12. An inch pound torque wrench to avoid over tightening scope and base screws. Need to get down to 12 inch pounds and as high as 100 inch pounds for the nuts on some tactical rings.
13. 6-48, 8-40, 1/4-28, plug and bottom taps. This covers the 700 action.
14. A small brass hammer
15. A 2 and 4 ounce ball peen.
16. A 16 ounce ball peen a bigger one for when you need some momentum.
17. A small plastic faced hammer.
18. The big plastic dead blow for opening stuck bolts or breaking bolt handles off.
19. Brass rods 1/8” and 1/4” x 36” long. For stuck cases.
20. The Kleinendorst Bolt Disassembly Tool to disassemble the Remington bolt.
21. Tom Menck - Remington/Ruger bolt tool
22. Hi quality assorted small pliers
23. A trigger pull scale. RCBS Trigger Pull Gage 0 to 72 oz
24. A can of Ronsonol Lighter Fluid to flush and clean triggers.
25. Needle oilers with Tri-Flow and CLP for general lubrication.
26. Kroil penetrating fluid
27. A can of Mobil One synthetic red grease for bolt lugs and cocking cam lubrication.
28. Small can of clear varnish for sealing up wood stocks in the barrel channel when you free float a wood stock.
29. Assorted wood dowels and sandpaper from 60 grit to 1000 for barrel channel work to deburring or polishing steel.
30. A little diamond file, assorted small stones and a set of needle files.
31. A package of 0000 steel wool for removing rust
32. Simple Green for cleaning gunked up parts
33. Assortment of small brushes for cleaning parts.
34. Assortment of one piece cleaning rods and bore guides.
35. Assortment of barrel bore cleaning supplies.
36. A big spray bottle of WD40 for whatever.
37. A couple bottles of Acetone for degreasing and a dedicated Acetone bottle for cleaning scope lenses.
38. Lot's of Q-Tips
39. Clean cotton shop rags
40. Blue paper towels
41. Little bins for storing parts. Need to be big enough to put bottom metal and the bolt body in.
42. Magnetic metal pan for rinsing parts in the sink.
43. Compressed air
44. A set of calipers
45. A good bench light with a magnifier
46. Small bright flash light
47. A set of dental tools
48. Assortment of Lock tight products. Small bottles
49. Small tube of Never Seize
50. Shop Fox bench vise with the aluminum tilting jaws.
51. A small collection of AR armorer tools will pay for themselves in no time.
52. Wilton Multi-Purpose 5” Vise with Swivel Base. I milled the jaws smooth on mine and use various soft jaws for different items.
53. When you get rich a Foredom tool is pretty handy. In the hands of a novice you can wreck stuff faster than you can change bits.

With these basic tools you could earn a tidy living repairing firearms. Wait to buy the specialty tools until you have a need for them.

 

[Victor N TN]

Starrett pin punches are nice. But over the decades I've bent and / or broken several sets. Right now I have a set of Starrett's. But I'm usually using the set from Home Depot or Lowe's. I can't remember which.

 

[bptactical]

I use Starrett punches for precise and lighter work, generic Lowes or General for general use.
The most important tool that is overlooked too often:
Every reference material you can find.
Seriously. Your brain is your most important tool, feed it.
A notepad and your camera/phone. Sometimes that note or picture you took will save you headaches later.

A hint on AR FSB taper pins- you can smack at them all day with a 1/16" or 1/8" punches and you will bend/break punches, mushroom the pin heads and put pecker tracks on the FSB.
I took a 3/4" piece of hex stock, turned a nice short taper to about 5/16" and rounded the nose over.
With the FSB supported on my bench block a sharp rap to the pin with the big punch and 24 oz ball peen pops them loose every time. You need that shock value to break them loose and the big, heavy punch won't bounce and damage the finish.
Once they are broken loose a baby tap with a pin punch and they are out.
Reinstall in the reverse, again the heavy punch seats the pin nicely with no slip or bounce.

 

[wadebrown]

In my shooting bag I keep a T-15 Torx with a handle for scope rings and bases, 1/2" combo wrench for tightening rings to the pic base, an extra trigger sealed up in a couple layers of plastic to keep grit and etc. out, 1/8 pin punch and smallest ball peen found for driving trigger pins out, extra trigger pins, hex wrenches for all fasteners that need them, a multi-piece cleaning rod for those times I forget my one-piece, brushes and patches (I use new brushes as jags so no need for jags), cleaning solvents, oil, a small tub of bolt grease, couple of quality screwdrivers, extra screws for all of the screws used in normal takedown, hate to be held back for the want of a 20 cent screw, and some meds for me when I need fixin'.

I try to keep the bare minimum of tools that will cover the basics in my shooting bag and this seems to work well for me. I have found that if I carry more than needed I will start to leave the kit behind. Carrying an extra tested trigger reduces some of the normal tools usually required and keeps me from dissembling a trigger in dirty field conditions.

My two cents.

 

[FS1]

Starret are very good punches but I have found over the years that Mayhew punches are top notch. I am no Gunsmith but I have been working with mechanical things my whole life so I do know good tools when I see them.

There are pin/push punches and roll pin punches not the same although they are used like they are. Roll pin punches have a small guide nipple on them. It does two things, helps you line up and it keeps you from collapsing the sides of the pin. Anyone who has ever collapsed a pin know this can be a real PITA.

If there are good reasons related to gunsmithing against what I have said, my intention was not that I know it all I was just offering a different point of view on punch brand. Mayhew is good stuff also.

PS your brain is the most powerful tool you have use it. If you are unsure of something sometimes it is best to wait till you are sure (talk to someone who knows).