I am looking at buying a stock that has the aluminum bedding in it. But Im curious do I need to also bed it with devcon or glass bedding in general?
Gunsmithing Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
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Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
I will usually rough up the aluminum block and skim bed action in, I think it gives a more stress free fit. I would not say it is a must but probably a good idea
I will usually rough up the aluminum block and skim bed action in, I think it gives a more stress free fit. I would not say it is a must but probably a good idea
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
Yeah I did the same thing. It's not necessary but it could help. I think the biggest place it helps is the recoil lug since there is nothing in front of it, the rear of mine sat right up against my bedding block but it's hard to know if yours is the same until you bed it
Yeah I did the same thing. It's not necessary but it could help. I think the biggest place it helps is the recoil lug since there is nothing in front of it, the rear of mine sat right up against my bedding block but it's hard to know if yours is the same until you bed it
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
Yeah I am going to shoot it for a while with that stock and see how it goes. Maybe it will be ok. If not then when I order my stuff for my other rifle ill just throw in some devcon.
Yeah I am going to shoot it for a while with that stock and see how it goes. Maybe it will be ok. If not then when I order my stuff for my other rifle ill just throw in some devcon.
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
I've bedded several of them I think it's a good idea. As stated above I just rough it all up with a dremel. I put a couple layers of tape on the bottom, sides and front of the recoil lug so there isn't any contact in those areas. It only contacts the back side. Stand the rifle up on the butt before you tighten down the action screws to make sure the lug is firmly seated.
Marc
I've bedded several of them I think it's a good idea. As stated above I just rough it all up with a dremel. I put a couple layers of tape on the bottom, sides and front of the recoil lug so there isn't any contact in those areas. It only contacts the back side. Stand the rifle up on the butt before you tighten down the action screws to make sure the lug is firmly seated.
Marc
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
I read somewhere that I should put 2 layers of tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug. So I guess it sounds about right per your instructions MarcS.
Thanks guys, I already ordered all my other shooting stuff from midway. I guess the devcon will have to come when I get ready to finish my other rifle.
I read somewhere that I should put 2 layers of tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug. So I guess it sounds about right per your instructions MarcS.
Thanks guys, I already ordered all my other shooting stuff from midway. I guess the devcon will have to come when I get ready to finish my other rifle.
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
look at the pictures of my hs bedding job. i drilled holes using an 1/8 inch bit i think. i cant believe i uploaded that pic. the camera was keying on the laptop, but you get the idea. then i used a punch and poked the epoxy (jbweld) into all of the holes i drilled. all the guys here say masking tape on the edge and front or muzzle end and wax the back of the recoil lug. so thats what i did. along with waxing everything else. also i kept the rifle level on a two old pillows set on my aquarium. its a 135 and its 4ft off the ground so the dogs wont bump it. i did it the way the three guys here do it. i wrapped masking tape around the barrel in two places and set the action in the stock adding tape to get it right where i wanted it, ejection port level with the stock. then i used the JB weld. the little $4-$5 two tube kit. mixed it, let it sit for an hour to get stiff, and bedded my stuff easily. keep some on some cardboard. like an old pizza box maybe, thats what i used. i laid a 1/2" chrome socket extension that i waxed and laid it on some JB on the pizza box and poked i with my thumbnail. 4-5 hours its getting hard and razor trims easily. after 1-3 you should be wiping excess with qtips and wd40. buy a box, use as many as it takes. try to find cheap ones without lanolin on them. and dont do the top edge til last and it will settle and leaving excess there avoids having to fill in after it drops. i waxed like 5-6 times with kiwi, lol. whacked the receiver with a 2x2 and it popped out at 5 - 6 hours. trim, put it back in and let it all cure. oh yeah i didnt even use the whole two tubes. 2/3 of each and with that i did the scope base
try this too...
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2066151#Post2066151
look at the pictures of my hs bedding job. i drilled holes using an 1/8 inch bit i think. i cant believe i uploaded that pic. the camera was keying on the laptop, but you get the idea. then i used a punch and poked the epoxy (jbweld) into all of the holes i drilled. all the guys here say masking tape on the edge and front or muzzle end and wax the back of the recoil lug. so thats what i did. along with waxing everything else. also i kept the rifle level on a two old pillows set on my aquarium. its a 135 and its 4ft off the ground so the dogs wont bump it. i did it the way the three guys here do it. i wrapped masking tape around the barrel in two places and set the action in the stock adding tape to get it right where i wanted it, ejection port level with the stock. then i used the JB weld. the little $4-$5 two tube kit. mixed it, let it sit for an hour to get stiff, and bedded my stuff easily. keep some on some cardboard. like an old pizza box maybe, thats what i used. i laid a 1/2" chrome socket extension that i waxed and laid it on some JB on the pizza box and poked i with my thumbnail. 4-5 hours its getting hard and razor trims easily. after 1-3 you should be wiping excess with qtips and wd40. buy a box, use as many as it takes. try to find cheap ones without lanolin on them. and dont do the top edge til last and it will settle and leaving excess there avoids having to fill in after it drops. i waxed like 5-6 times with kiwi, lol. whacked the receiver with a 2x2 and it popped out at 5 - 6 hours. trim, put it back in and let it all cure. oh yeah i didnt even use the whole two tubes. 2/3 of each and with that i did the scope base
try this too...
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2066151#Post2066151
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
yup. thought id give it a shot. man, when i was a kid, there was an old school parts place and they JB welded two valves face to face. the rods or stems? were bent from people trying to break it apart. that was their jb weld display. but i had heard of people doing it with that. its handy. its cheap. you dont gotta get a pound. its 1:1 mix. easy to predict. mix. spread it out, wait an hour. mix it some more and it should be thicker and not runny. apply 1-2 hours, just watch it. 1 hour easy. and then just keep an eye on it. like i said the high line along the top of the stock let that be til last except slop down the sides. if its gonna settle, it will there. 2-3 hours keep watching. 4 hours your wondering will it set up. 5-6 hours its ready to pull. but keeping some to press your nail with will help you monitor. ill get a few more pics.
crap, my cr123 died. ill get pics tomorrow. but yeah, jb & xacto knife. qtips, wd40. 2 old pillows. kiwi neutral. scotch tape. blue masking tape. play doh from the dollar store, but real modeling clay would be best
and it cures like this. its wet, its sticky, it gets on ya. then its scabby and wet under like paint blobs. then its firm and you dig your nail in it. it leaves marks but they go away. when they stay its close. you will see it get harder to make a mark. then it will be glossy and hard and no mark from light pressure. its setting 5-6 hours for me. i trimmed alot while it was setting up. look at the post at the top of this section. plenty of pics in there. mine are on the last page. ill get more when i get some batteries. i even screwed up the back. i cut it out and fixed it
yup. thought id give it a shot. man, when i was a kid, there was an old school parts place and they JB welded two valves face to face. the rods or stems? were bent from people trying to break it apart. that was their jb weld display. but i had heard of people doing it with that. its handy. its cheap. you dont gotta get a pound. its 1:1 mix. easy to predict. mix. spread it out, wait an hour. mix it some more and it should be thicker and not runny. apply 1-2 hours, just watch it. 1 hour easy. and then just keep an eye on it. like i said the high line along the top of the stock let that be til last except slop down the sides. if its gonna settle, it will there. 2-3 hours keep watching. 4 hours your wondering will it set up. 5-6 hours its ready to pull. but keeping some to press your nail with will help you monitor. ill get a few more pics.
crap, my cr123 died. ill get pics tomorrow. but yeah, jb & xacto knife. qtips, wd40. 2 old pillows. kiwi neutral. scotch tape. blue masking tape. play doh from the dollar store, but real modeling clay would be best
and it cures like this. its wet, its sticky, it gets on ya. then its scabby and wet under like paint blobs. then its firm and you dig your nail in it. it leaves marks but they go away. when they stay its close. you will see it get harder to make a mark. then it will be glossy and hard and no mark from light pressure. its setting 5-6 hours for me. i trimmed alot while it was setting up. look at the post at the top of this section. plenty of pics in there. mine are on the last page. ill get more when i get some batteries. i even screwed up the back. i cut it out and fixed it
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
Why JB Weld and not epoxy? I always heard epoxy was more suitable for bedding.
Why JB Weld and not epoxy? I always heard epoxy was more suitable for bedding.
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
me? it was available, it was sold in less than a pound. i cannot find the data on it or on devcon to compare. but id like to see what they say. the JB site says it has a 3,960 psi tensile strength. devcon lists adheasive shear at 2,800 psi and compressive at 8,260 and flexural at 5,600 so... did i mention it was available? like i said, its a 1:1 mix and it was $5 at the local store. i used less than 2oz so i would have a bunch of devcon unused.
jb lists their properties here
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F
devcon is here
http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_101.pdf
there is a difference, one is higher here, the other there. but for bedding, id say its pretty much a wash. plus im sure if it were a totally bad thing, someone would have chimed in by now.
me? it was available, it was sold in less than a pound. i cannot find the data on it or on devcon to compare. but id like to see what they say. the JB site says it has a 3,960 psi tensile strength. devcon lists adheasive shear at 2,800 psi and compressive at 8,260 and flexural at 5,600 so... did i mention it was available? like i said, its a 1:1 mix and it was $5 at the local store. i used less than 2oz so i would have a bunch of devcon unused.
jb lists their properties here
Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F
devcon is here
http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_101.pdf
there is a difference, one is higher here, the other there. but for bedding, id say its pretty much a wash. plus im sure if it were a totally bad thing, someone would have chimed in by now.
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
after it cured, i am using 50 inch pounds. i think spec is 65 in lbs
after it cured, i am using 50 inch pounds. i think spec is 65 in lbs
Re: Bedding an aluminum bedded stock????
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300snipe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why JB Weld and not epoxy? I always heard epoxy was more suitable for bedding. </div></div>
JB Weld <span style="text-decoration: underline">is</span> a two part epoxy.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300snipe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why JB Weld and not epoxy? I always heard epoxy was more suitable for bedding. </div></div>
JB Weld <span style="text-decoration: underline">is</span> a two part epoxy.
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