I am having a loading bench made in my living room. Butcher block seems to me to be the top I want. There are different finishes / no finish.
Which would be the best surface?
Which would be the best surface?
Bench top finish
- Thread starter SporterII
- Start date
Re: Bench top finish
I like tung oil finish. If it scratches oil it - scratch gone/hidden. Tung oil is what I use on my walnut milsurp rifle stocks. When the stocks get oil the bench getts a little affection. Tung oil smells like peanuts it makes me very thirsty for beer. After the rifles and bench are oiled I have a beer. The manufacturer of my butcher block top recommends tung oil for a finish
I use Real Milk Paint Company - Pure Tung Oil.
I like tung oil finish. If it scratches oil it - scratch gone/hidden. Tung oil is what I use on my walnut milsurp rifle stocks. When the stocks get oil the bench getts a little affection. Tung oil smells like peanuts it makes me very thirsty for beer. After the rifles and bench are oiled I have a beer. The manufacturer of my butcher block top recommends tung oil for a finish
I use Real Milk Paint Company - Pure Tung Oil.
Re: Bench top finish
I used the epoxy garage floor finish. Don't use the non-skid...too hard to spot small parts/primers.
I used the epoxy garage floor finish. Don't use the non-skid...too hard to spot small parts/primers.
M
milo 2.0
Guest
Re: Bench top finish
Holy shit PM, nice bench, I remember that top from the bench thread. I so want to do that too!
The butcher block is so cool, I did my gun safe interior in it, poly'ed. But it gets no wear. The hand rubbed oil would be the trick on a working bench like PM said, get a blemish, oil it out.
The price would be alot though for hardwood, especially 8 foot pieces that thick, I don't like butt splices, though they would be ok in a block like this. A guy could run the end grain toward the front of bench to save money, but the glue up would be harder.
Tung oil, like PM said works, but so would Watco natural, and Waterlox, my choice. Hand rubbed with sanding sponges, micro fine for the last coat, it would be beautiful.
Poly would not be the answer if you use the bench for everything. My poly gets ruined from denatured alcohol, cleaning bullets prior to molying, and scratches easy.
No offense PM, but I would not trust my 1050 Dillon to the T-track mounting system. That shit barely offers enough support on my drill press table, never the less a 60# press.
Anyway, butcher block would be way cool if you have the time and coin.
Miles
Holy shit PM, nice bench, I remember that top from the bench thread. I so want to do that too!
The butcher block is so cool, I did my gun safe interior in it, poly'ed. But it gets no wear. The hand rubbed oil would be the trick on a working bench like PM said, get a blemish, oil it out.
The price would be alot though for hardwood, especially 8 foot pieces that thick, I don't like butt splices, though they would be ok in a block like this. A guy could run the end grain toward the front of bench to save money, but the glue up would be harder.
Tung oil, like PM said works, but so would Watco natural, and Waterlox, my choice. Hand rubbed with sanding sponges, micro fine for the last coat, it would be beautiful.
Poly would not be the answer if you use the bench for everything. My poly gets ruined from denatured alcohol, cleaning bullets prior to molying, and scratches easy.
No offense PM, but I would not trust my 1050 Dillon to the T-track mounting system. That shit barely offers enough support on my drill press table, never the less a 60# press.
Anyway, butcher block would be way cool if you have the time and coin.
Miles
Re: Bench top finish
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: milo-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Holy shit PM, nice bench, I remember that top from the bench thread. I so want to do that too!
The butcher block is so cool, I did my gun safe interior in it, poly'ed. But it gets no wear. The hand rubbed oil would be the trick on a working bench like PM said, get a blemish, oil it out.
The price would be alot though for hardwood, especially 8 foot pieces that thick, I don't like butt splices, though they would be ok in a block like this. A guy could run the end grain toward the front of bench to save money, but the glue up would be harder.
Tung oil, like PM said works, but so would Watco natural, and Waterlox, my choice. Hand rubbed with sanding sponges, micro fine for the last coat, it would be beautiful.
Poly would not be the answer if you use the bench for everything. My poly gets ruined from denatured alcohol, cleaning bullets prior to molying, and scratches easy.
No offense PM, but I would not trust my 1050 Dillon to the T-track mounting system. That shit barely offers enough support on my drill press table, never the less a 60# press.
Anyway, butcher block would be way cool if you have the time and coin.
Miles </div></div>
Thank you for your compliments.
I am kind of a traditionalist, some would say a Luddite, but the old ways just seem to work. Tung oil keeps the rifles and the bench protected.
I had concerns about the T-track but it has been working well. I routed the channel in the bench top for the track and it is compression tight. I filled the cut channel with two part epoxy before using a mallet to set the tracks in. I used through bolts and washers to mechanically secure the T-track to the bench. I think the aluminum mount plate distributes the stress on the track channels. 4 bolts secure the press to the plate and six bolts secure the plate to the T-track. So far so good.
I bought my bench top from a company in PA - I think Bally Block. The dimensions of the bench as well as the design for the most part are from the NRMA reloading bench plan PDF that readilly available by Google searching "NRMA Reloading Bench Plan". The top, I think its 35x72x1.5, was about $300 shipped
I was going to follow the NRMA plans and build this myself using the spec hardware and plywood construction of the plans. My wife saw me stressing about it and suggested I try getting prices from a furniture builder. I figured no way I can afford that. I was surprised to learn a guy that knows what he is doing can build stuff pretty cheap. Mink Brook Studios in VT built this using better material (maple boards)and incorporated my design changes for a price I couldnt refuse. My plywood material costs alone were half of the build/deliver/set up price from Mink Brook. I didnt have to risk losing fingers or piece meal build this on days off while trying to watch two kids.
Anyone thinking of doing something like this give your local cabinetmaker a chance.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: milo-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Holy shit PM, nice bench, I remember that top from the bench thread. I so want to do that too!
The butcher block is so cool, I did my gun safe interior in it, poly'ed. But it gets no wear. The hand rubbed oil would be the trick on a working bench like PM said, get a blemish, oil it out.
The price would be alot though for hardwood, especially 8 foot pieces that thick, I don't like butt splices, though they would be ok in a block like this. A guy could run the end grain toward the front of bench to save money, but the glue up would be harder.
Tung oil, like PM said works, but so would Watco natural, and Waterlox, my choice. Hand rubbed with sanding sponges, micro fine for the last coat, it would be beautiful.
Poly would not be the answer if you use the bench for everything. My poly gets ruined from denatured alcohol, cleaning bullets prior to molying, and scratches easy.
No offense PM, but I would not trust my 1050 Dillon to the T-track mounting system. That shit barely offers enough support on my drill press table, never the less a 60# press.
Anyway, butcher block would be way cool if you have the time and coin.
Miles </div></div>
Thank you for your compliments.
I am kind of a traditionalist, some would say a Luddite, but the old ways just seem to work. Tung oil keeps the rifles and the bench protected.
I had concerns about the T-track but it has been working well. I routed the channel in the bench top for the track and it is compression tight. I filled the cut channel with two part epoxy before using a mallet to set the tracks in. I used through bolts and washers to mechanically secure the T-track to the bench. I think the aluminum mount plate distributes the stress on the track channels. 4 bolts secure the press to the plate and six bolts secure the plate to the T-track. So far so good.
I bought my bench top from a company in PA - I think Bally Block. The dimensions of the bench as well as the design for the most part are from the NRMA reloading bench plan PDF that readilly available by Google searching "NRMA Reloading Bench Plan". The top, I think its 35x72x1.5, was about $300 shipped
I was going to follow the NRMA plans and build this myself using the spec hardware and plywood construction of the plans. My wife saw me stressing about it and suggested I try getting prices from a furniture builder. I figured no way I can afford that. I was surprised to learn a guy that knows what he is doing can build stuff pretty cheap. Mink Brook Studios in VT built this using better material (maple boards)and incorporated my design changes for a price I couldnt refuse. My plywood material costs alone were half of the build/deliver/set up price from Mink Brook. I didnt have to risk losing fingers or piece meal build this on days off while trying to watch two kids.
Anyone thinking of doing something like this give your local cabinetmaker a chance.
Re: Bench top finish
If you have a Grizzly Tool store close, check there. The one near me always seems to have large heavy butcher block bench tops for sale in the scratch and dent section. They look like they'd clean up very nicely.
Reasonably priced, too.
If you have a Grizzly Tool store close, check there. The one near me always seems to have large heavy butcher block bench tops for sale in the scratch and dent section. They look like they'd clean up very nicely.
Reasonably priced, too.
Re: Bench top finish
Home Depot had solid core wood blanks for $53 each, 36"x80". I was going to go with butcher block until I saw those, sure beats paying $300 for butcher block! I got some garage floor paint that will be going on it as soon as I get the top mounted to the legs.
Home Depot had solid core wood blanks for $53 each, 36"x80". I was going to go with butcher block until I saw those, sure beats paying $300 for butcher block! I got some garage floor paint that will be going on it as soon as I get the top mounted to the legs.
Re: Bench top finish
I used polyurethane making multiple coats till I liked the shine. Reason is because it resists oils, solvents and other fluids or contaminants that could damage or stain my bench. It has held up very well over the years.
I used polyurethane making multiple coats till I liked the shine. Reason is because it resists oils, solvents and other fluids or contaminants that could damage or stain my bench. It has held up very well over the years.
Re: Bench top finish
Any thoughts on a flame resistant surface? I want to have a section of the bench that I can do annealing work on. I found some marble top side tables on Craig's List that I can cannibalize and mount on top of my bench surface(at $50 for a 3'x3' marble top, it seems like a good choice). Are there better alternatives?
Any thoughts on a flame resistant surface? I want to have a section of the bench that I can do annealing work on. I found some marble top side tables on Craig's List that I can cannibalize and mount on top of my bench surface(at $50 for a 3'x3' marble top, it seems like a good choice). Are there better alternatives?
Re: Bench top finish
I had the local sheet metal shop put a 90 degree bend in some stainless. Can't beat it for solvent resistance! I'll get a pic for everyone.
That butcher block bench top is beautiful, but I'd cry drilling it for my press! JPG
I had the local sheet metal shop put a 90 degree bend in some stainless. Can't beat it for solvent resistance! I'll get a pic for everyone.
That butcher block bench top is beautiful, but I'd cry drilling it for my press! JPG
Re: Bench top finish
Interestingly, Ikea has a pretty damn nice butcher block setup that is perfect for a bench top, and quite reasonably priced...< $200.
I'm interested in checking that out for when I finally build my permanent bench.
Interestingly, Ikea has a pretty damn nice butcher block setup that is perfect for a bench top, and quite reasonably priced...< $200.
I'm interested in checking that out for when I finally build my permanent bench.
Re: Bench top finish
Mine is two layers of 3/4" CDX plywood glued together and screwed with a shitload of 1 1/4" drywall screws. Shaped in an L, 2x4 frame work underneath it all, built in a corner, 8 ft each side, 2 feet deep. Top was sanded smooth and stained with whatever minwax it was laying around. Once in a while I'll spray a rag full of WD40 and wipe it down....couldn't give a rat's ass if it gets stained with something.
Mine is two layers of 3/4" CDX plywood glued together and screwed with a shitload of 1 1/4" drywall screws. Shaped in an L, 2x4 frame work underneath it all, built in a corner, 8 ft each side, 2 feet deep. Top was sanded smooth and stained with whatever minwax it was laying around. Once in a while I'll spray a rag full of WD40 and wipe it down....couldn't give a rat's ass if it gets stained with something.
Re: Bench top finish
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sentry1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any thoughts on a flame resistant surface? I want to have a section of the bench that I can do annealing work on. </div></div>
If you need your work surface to be flame-resistant for your annealing... you're doing it wrong, IMO.
I do my annealing on a folding plastic crafts table with the metal folding legs, from Home Depot. Maybe not my ultimate choice, but it works fine. Brass - or anything else hot - never comes in contact with the work surface.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sentry1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any thoughts on a flame resistant surface? I want to have a section of the bench that I can do annealing work on. </div></div>
If you need your work surface to be flame-resistant for your annealing... you're doing it wrong, IMO.
I do my annealing on a folding plastic crafts table with the metal folding legs, from Home Depot. Maybe not my ultimate choice, but it works fine. Brass - or anything else hot - never comes in contact with the work surface.
