I think you need to evaluate first what options are out there. And what to look for when you go shopping for the best rifle your money can buy.
1. Overall action tightness. I love Mausers because for many years they were inexpensive and they could be worked into using many cartridges that i wanted to try. Savage was a good one for that also. Both actions suffer from binding due to the wide latitude of movement while retracted (slop). Others have mentioned actions that aren't tight when the bolt is retracted. Weight is an issue, but the action itself isn't typically all that heavy. AI's suffer from weight issues, but it's usually the barrel and stock that add the most. the Rem 700 and clones don't suffer this as much as the bolt remains in relative trueness to the action when retracted. I also like (god forbid) post'64 Win 70 push feeds for this reason.
2. Options on the action. I like a recoil lug that is integral to the action. This is the one major drawback to the R700 and Savage as well. Just one less separate part that is harmonic to recoil. A rail, integral with the action, is preferred. Because again, less parts and if it's done correctly, is truer to the action. this means a lot when mounting a scope and reducing offset. However, we've all been doing pretty good with actions that need bases mounted and a good gunsmith can re-bore the scope mounting holes (to a larger dia. screw) to ensure trueness of the holes to the action.
Something to think about is if you go with the lower cost "off the shelf" actions, you'll probably want to spend the money to get them trued. Thus why many go straight to the custom actions as they come out of the shops with 100% QC (or at least they are supposed to)
Handy bolt release. They all work, just some are a little more pita to work quickly. And some can snag on stuff. Not bad, but enough to annoy you.
Here's a big one. The ability to fit a high capacity magazine system. And, what magazine system. Magpul, ProMag, Magpro, Hera...to name a few. Some will handle the German G-3/R-1/HK type mags, Some handle the M14 style mags. Get the system you like (see it first if you can). But, I do recommend you go with compostite (plastic) mags vs. steel or aluminum. they're slicker and work better in general. this narrows down a lot of actions as there aren't quality feed mechanisms for a lot of off the shelf
3. What stock you can get for your action. There are stocks for everything. But, the lesser known brands are hard to find "all the stuff" or the right shape.
4. The bolt. Some like the lower angle of movement of a 3 lug bolt (60 deg. throw) vs. a two lug (90 deg. throw). This may not seem like much but length of throw and angle make ergonomics easier. Bolt handle style and angle make a difference here too. So, unless you like big rounds keep your action to a short one. Some people don't have any issue with it.
Extractor style is a big one. You have two general types to deal with, push feed (PF) and controlled round feed (CR). On many of the older CR actions it tears up brass to lay a round on the feed tray then chamber it. They were designed so the round was only fed from the magazine. A bevel was cut in the front of the claw to ease it over the rim if this had to be done. A PF action doesn't have this issue. The question always arises then is how extreme of an angle are you going to be feeding it that the round isn't going to be loose for that split second where it could move and jam the action while cycling. I've never had a PF jam that was being cycled at regular speed. But, I have had them jam when intentionally cycling very slowly. CR's aren't foolproof either. Feeding from a box magazine though limits forward and backward movement and reduces the action being prone to jamming.
Mausers, Mausingfields, Old Win 70's and post 94 Win 70's, Montana Rifle, Mannlicher and most Sakos are CR. R700, Howa, Tikka, AI and clones are PF
Of the PF type extractors, you have the R700, a clip in machined cut in rim, Post 64/Sav which is a blade in a machined cut in the front of ext. side lug and the AR-15/Sako style which is a spring loaded arm. The last is my preference, but unless you are loading hot, you won't have an issue with any of them. As noted above, Savage ejectors get smashed a fair number of times. I haven't had that issue with proper pressure loaded ammunition. I did smash one when I loaded the round too hot.
5. Trigger. Any number of aftermarket triggers are going to be good. I like the R700 style triggers. I have both the old and new, and they both work. I don't like the single arm of the Sav and Win triggers. Timney, Geissele (pronounced Guys-lee), Wilson, Tubb, Shilen...there's a myriad of great triggers out there. all have good trigger replacement options just some are more expensive and not always immediately available. If you see "backorder, 6 mo's) you might avoid that action if a trigger (or any feature) is important to you.
Anyhow, some things to think about when you go looking for what you think you want. And, BTW, that'll change
