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Best bolt lube for PRS

crackerbacks

crackerbacks

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 17, 2010
460
37
SE Michigan
#1
So I am new to prs and I am not pleased with my normal bolt lube (breakfree clp or fireclean). I might be crazy but I feel that my custom actions seem to stick when a cycle under stress, when I am running the gently they feel as smooth as glass. I think that’s the problem, both of the surfaces are so true and smooth that they exhibit van der waals forces. My factory rifle do not exhibit this because they are not as true nor smooth.

I have noticed this with different brands of custom actions that I own as well as others.

is there a lube that will reduce this phenomenon or do I just need to cycle my bolt with no downward force?
 
#8
Amsoil synthetic transmission fluid. Shooter's Choice red grease on the back side of the bolt lugs and on the extraction camming area. I think it is just red super tacky synthetic bearing grease in a syringe.
 
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#14
I would say practice running your bolt quickly and under stress. If it is smooth when slow, then the problem is not the lube. The problem is you’re bad at running the bolt under stress. So during dryfire, dedicate some time to practicing bolt manipulation. Proper repetition is the only thing that will smooth YOU out.
 
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#19
I've been using this stuff called "Hobo Oil" for the last year or so. Not sure about what's in it, but it is definitely slick. You put on a really light coat and it works for quite a while. I haven't used it for any two day events without cleaning or anything, but I've taken it out for full day prairie dog activities in the New Mexico lunar dust environments and I didn't feel like it needed cleaning afterwards.
I still use the Hornady One shot for a lot of other stuff. I feel like it might even be alright for lock mechanisms since it dries fairly quickly. At least that's what I told myself the last time I had a door lock off and it was in need of lube. So far not issues and it's been a couple of months.
 
#20
I use a thin coating of Slip2000 EWL 30 on the bolt/raceways with my finger and then follow up with a tiny dab of Slip2000 EWG grease on the back of the bolt lugs. I've never really tried anything else. But using this combo for years and I have no problems.

One thing I just found out is not to use CLP on anything nitrided as it affects the finish. Anybody confirm?
 
#29
mtruong said:
Lucas Oil Extreme Duty oil for me (the blue stuff). Run it in all my guns (bolt action, JP AR, Atlas 2011) and extremely happy with its performance.
Click to expand...
Austinjunks said:
I use the Lucas gun lube, blue stuff. I dig it, probably going to try the dry stuff out tho.
Click to expand...

x3. Got some of this stuff on a good deal and it seems to work very well. Use the contact cleaner and CLP the odd time too with great success.
 
#33
Prebanpaul said:
use a “non-chloric, silicon-based kitchen lubricant” You know that shit that Clark Griswald used on his sled. Problem solved.
Click to expand...
The Crunch Enhancer! You know, it's a non-nutritive cereal varnish. It's semi-permiable. It's not osmotic. What it does is it coats and seals the flake, prevents the milk from penetrating it.
 
#34
ofl0926 said:
What about the chamber cleaning? Suggestions? Same one shot stuff? Spray and good to go?
Click to expand...

I hang my barrels vertically and plug them. Fill with clr for an hour or two. Patch out and brush. Then fill with boretech copper remover. Patch out and brush.

Chamber and barrel comes out looking almost new and hardly any work. Most of it is soak time while doing other things.
 
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#35
Dthomas3523 said:
I hang my barrels vertically and plug them. Fill with clr for an hour or two. Patch out and brush. Then fill with boretech copper remover. Patch out and brush.

Chamber and barrel comes out looking almost new and hardly any work. Most of it is soak time while doing other things.
Click to expand...

that’s currently what I do with boretech products. Except I put it in a vice and run 3-5 soaked patches. How about lugs Cleaning?
 
#39
Dthomas3523 said:
I hang my barrels vertically and plug them. Fill with clr for an hour or two. Patch out and brush. Then fill with boretech copper remover. Patch out and brush.

Chamber and barrel comes out looking almost new and hardly any work. Most of it is soak time while doing other things.
Click to expand...
Do you pull the barrel off when you do that?
 
#44
Been running Frog Lube on my race guns for years. Tried dozens of products and just gravitated there because they run friction-less and cleaning after 500 plus rounds constitutes disassembling, wiping with a shop rag and reapplying. Never knew about any of these results. I just joke about it being minty smelling coconut oil. LOL

I don't use Frog Lube for proper barrel cleaning though. I stick to specialty solvents for that.
 
#45
Tono said:
Be sure to also use the Hornady One Shot any bare or blued metal for rust protection. Just spray it on and wipe off...
Click to expand...

You don’t even have to wipe it off. When I spray my bolt I just hold the handle and spray the whole thing and then set it down and let it dry. It dries dry. LOL
 
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#46
I've used lots of different oils but lately have just used 5w30 synthetic out of a needle bottle. Seems to work on engine bearings so why not on bolt lugs?
 
#48
glefos said:
Been running Frog Lube on my race guns for years. Tried dozens of products and just gravitated there because they run friction-less and cleaning after 500 plus rounds constitutes disassembling, wiping with a shop rag and reapplying. Never knew about any of these results. I just joke about it being minty smelling coconut oil. LOL

I don't use Frog Lube for proper barrel cleaning though. I stick to specialty solvents for that.
Click to expand...
Thats great until it get slightly cold and it turns solid because its just coconut oil.
Froglube is the worst shit I have ever seen someone put on their gun.
 
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#49
want2learn said:
there's a little article on accurate shooter.com penned by Germán A. Salazar that strongly advocates lubricating the bolt (rear surface of the locking lugs, the cocking cam and the extraction cam) with grease and specifically cautions using oil.


Click to expand...

Thanks for the article, very helpful. I wished the pictured still worked though.
 
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