Tried searching through forum using different ways, without luck. I have an DPMS 308 build, and was fine tuning trigger pocket, and knocked my CMC 2 stage trigger group into my aluminum dust. Should of used my calipers like usual, but OEM moly grease, looked like I poured aluminum dust in it. I tried contacting CMC directly without response, so I'm asking here. Other that white gas/ Denatured alcohol, what is the proper way to remove grease, and what is the best to replace with? My Lantac bolt came with Frog lube, but CMC package states use moly grease. Any info would be appreciated.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Best moly trigger grease
- Thread starter 65overlander
- Start date
dude book a flight to Chicago....NOW.....bring your trash,,,,, and jock up...get to the south side ...MAKE US FUCKING proud brother.......do a post morteum ...report back here.......them let us know what frigid temps do to your johnson............you will know!!
I use milcom tw25 for grease and it seems to make for a little smoother pull, but really any grease will do the job. I'd probably use brake clean to clean the trigger out, but about any good solvent will do if you work at it.
I would not want a bunch of any lubricant on the sear engagement surfaces of any trigger.
If by "not smooth" you mean that the trigger has discernible grit over the course pre-letoff travel, this implies that the engagement surfaces are not flat. Lube won't solve that problem. The surfaces should be dressed properly.
If by "not smooth" you mean that the trigger has discernible grit over the course pre-letoff travel, this implies that the engagement surfaces are not flat. Lube won't solve that problem. The surfaces should be dressed properly.
Both of these address most of my requirements, but agree that all surfaces should be square to each other.
Degrease? Spray it down with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, contact cleaner, acetone, whatever. Air dry or blow it out with compressed air. Repeat if necessary.
Lube? Whatchagot? I'm using Castrol 5w-30 synthetic 'cause I've got a quart sitting here.
Are you serious?
Proper way to remove grease? LOL How about a rag and any organic solvent? You know, shit that's in any real man's garage like gasoline, brake cleaner, lighter fluid....fuck you can even use BBQ charcoal lighter fluid.
"Best" moly grease? What kind of a question is that?
Moly grease, wheel bearing grease, white lithium grease, bike chain grease......use any of them. A trigger is hardly a challenging application that needs some specialty lubricant.
There used to be a time men knew this without having to ask
Last edited:
lubes attract dirt and don't stick around very long.
Not a permanent solution at all but might be useful if you're only going to fire a few rounds.
But if those considerations aren't important, the best ones I've found are lithium grease, auto trans fluid and anti-seize applied very sparingly on clean parts.
Not a permanent solution at all but might be useful if you're only going to fire a few rounds.
But if those considerations aren't important, the best ones I've found are lithium grease, auto trans fluid and anti-seize applied very sparingly on clean parts.
I have 12 total rounds through weapon, before smithing, and contaminated my trigger. As far as what men whould know, I sont throw random shit a a problem, because it says "Grease" on my tools. While on my submarine, we had different grease formulations, dependant on environmental, and work use, so spare me the men comments. Not only that, i figure CMC uses the OEM grease for a reason. Thank you for those with non trivial answers!
To get back to the OP's question...
I have used "Brake Clean" numerous times on Trigger groups ( even while still installed in the lower) , and then just used any grease I had on hand. Myself, I have never had an issue doing that.
NOTE: those times have been field expedient... and NOT with a Trigger Pack.
You will find the AR firearm to be very tolerant of all sorts of abuse... Look up "Filthy 14"... never cleaned in 40K plus rounds... just squirted with lube every once in a while.
Point is, any solvent really shouldn't adversely effect the CMC trigger pack.... just be sure to re apply any removed lubes
If you are concerned, try some paint thinner... it will work and is pretty mild as solvents go.
Wear some safety glasses if you are going to scrub the trigger pack. ( Ya only got two eyes. )
Air dry, then re-lube with a decent penetrating oil... ( to get into the trigger and hammer pin bearing surfaces )
I wouldn't feel good about using Denatured Alcohol... that stuff isn't a strong grease remover.
( Frankly, IMHO it is best for cleaning your windshield wiper blades wiping edge... try it, you'll see , and removing latex paint spill's )
As for a Moly Grease, just about any will work... a dab on a toothpick, will get into tough to reach places...Like the sears
Hope this helps... and remember the AR design is 50+ years old, and at best has been maintained by people far less cautious then most of us.
I have used "Brake Clean" numerous times on Trigger groups ( even while still installed in the lower) , and then just used any grease I had on hand. Myself, I have never had an issue doing that.
NOTE: those times have been field expedient... and NOT with a Trigger Pack.
You will find the AR firearm to be very tolerant of all sorts of abuse... Look up "Filthy 14"... never cleaned in 40K plus rounds... just squirted with lube every once in a while.
Point is, any solvent really shouldn't adversely effect the CMC trigger pack.... just be sure to re apply any removed lubes
If you are concerned, try some paint thinner... it will work and is pretty mild as solvents go.
Wear some safety glasses if you are going to scrub the trigger pack. ( Ya only got two eyes. )
Air dry, then re-lube with a decent penetrating oil... ( to get into the trigger and hammer pin bearing surfaces )
I wouldn't feel good about using Denatured Alcohol... that stuff isn't a strong grease remover.
( Frankly, IMHO it is best for cleaning your windshield wiper blades wiping edge... try it, you'll see , and removing latex paint spill's )
As for a Moly Grease, just about any will work... a dab on a toothpick, will get into tough to reach places...Like the sears
Hope this helps... and remember the AR design is 50+ years old, and at best has been maintained by people far less cautious then most of us.
Last edited:
You're lubing a simple ass trigger, not the stem on one of the valves in the primary sampling system.
See, I also can play that game. I was a nuke too.
You want RyDol grease. JP Rifles refers to it as a trigger job in a bottle.
Similar threads
