Best precision rifle available on a budget

Firstly, can the $150 scope. You can get a decent scope for $300-400, from Nikon, Burris, Weaver, or Vortex. $100-150 buys you trash. Your MOA rifle won't shoot MOA with a crap scope. You will also need strong rings, Warne rings are inexpensive and bullet proof. And a Picatinney rail is most def required. In my experience, the most common cause of poor shooting, other than operator error, is poorly made and poorly mounted optics. Scope rings loose, scope base loose, loose reticle in scope, etc. If you are serious about shooting LR, don't scrimp on optics. there is a well known maxim, "spend as much on optics as you do on your rifle". Well, perhaps it should be said,"pay as much attention to your optical system as you do to the rest of your firearm".

Secondly, you can buy a rifle guaranteed to shoot under MOA for less than $800. Look at the Weatherby Vanguard MOA rifles, maybe check out gunbroker.com:

VANGUARD TRR RC 308 WIN SUB MOA -$799 new in box​

There are less expensive ones with the sub MOA guarantee. If it doesn't shoot MOA, send it back to Weatherby, they will honor the guarantee.

Out to 300 meters, a .308 or 30-06 is fine for deer sized animals. any further and you should be looking at a magnum caliber, with the correct projectile for what your are aiming at.

FYI, my very first rifle was a Weatherby MKV Grand Slam package, bought on Gunbroker for $900 (new), with a Weaver Grand Slam scope mounted, and an aluminum carry case. 300 Weatherby Mag. Shot well under MOA with the right load, and deadly way past 400 yards. Finally had it re-barreled after around 2000 rounds. Shot everything from goats to Nilgai with it. Even an American Bison, with a 200 grain Nosler partition. More than once I got two pigs with the same shot, using Barnes bullets. Now I own 10 rifles, from 6.5-284 out to .458 Lott. The 300 Weatherby is still my go to gun. I keep it in New Zealand for Red Stag and tahr.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Slides
Firstly, can the $150 scope. You can get a decent scope for $300-400, from Nikon, Burris, Weaver, or Vortex. $100-150 buys you trash. Your MOA rifle won't shoot MOA with a crap scope. You will also need strong rings, Warne rings are inexpensive and bullet proof. And a Picatinney rail is most def required. In my experience, the most common cause of poor shooting, other than operator error, is poorly made and poorly mounted optics. Scope rings loose, scope base loose, loose reticle in scope, etc. If you are serious about shooting LR, don't scrimp on optics. there is a well known maxim, "spend as much on optics as you do on your rifle". Well, perhaps it should be said,"pay as much attention to your optical system as you do to the rest of your firearm".

Secondly, you can buy a rifle guaranteed to shoot under MOA for less than $800. Look at the Weatherby Vanguard MOA rifles, maybe check out gunbroker.com:

VANGUARD TRR RC 308 WIN SUB MOA -$799 new in box​

There are less expensive ones with the sub MOA guarantee. If it doesn't shoot MOA, send it back to Weatherby, they will honor the guarantee.

Out to 300 meters, a .308 or 30-06 is fine for deer sized animals. any further and you should be looking at a magnum caliber, with the correct projectile for what your are aiming at.

FYI, my very first rifle was a Weatherby MKV Grand Slam package, bought on Gunbroker for $900 (new), with a Weaver Grand Slam scope mounted, and an aluminum carry case. 300 Weatherby Mag. Shot well under MOA with the right load, and deadly way past 400 yards. Finally had it re-barreled after around 2000 rounds. Shot everything from goats to Nilgai with it. Even an American Bison, with a 200 grain Nosler partition. More than once I got two pigs with the same shot, using Barnes bullets. Now I own 10 rifles, from 6.5-284 out to .458 Lott. The 300 Weatherby is still my go to gun. I keep it in New Zealand for Red Stag and tahr.

Weatherby Vanguard SMU Tungren in .300 Win With 26"Brl and Holds 5 Rnds NIB - $600, sub moa guarantee.​

 

Weatherby Vanguard SMU Tungren in .300 Win With 26"Brl and Holds 5 Rnds NIB - $600, sub moa guarantee.​

So he should buy a rifle that he can't afford to shoot?
He is a poor student.
The .308 is an excellent choice for a beginner, in normal times, plentiful match ammo that is more reasonable to purchase, likewise the 6.5 CM.
Not to mention the punishing recoil of the magnum would make it a poor choice to learn to shoot on.
He has limited availability of rifles in his area, which is specifically why he mentioned the models he did.
Your recommendation in regards to the optic is spot on, that has been brought up previously.
This wetherby would be an excellent choice and fits in his budget:

 
If you currently have nothing and can afford only a little my suggestion is to look at common brand production rifles in your price range with a proven history of accuracy. Some brands that come to mind are Savage, Ruger, and Howa. All three of them are relatively inexpensive with models noted for shooting at 1 MOA, or less, when the shooter does things right. The Savage Accutrigger is a wonderful thing;) Glass is your next obstacle, and can cost many time what the rifle did. The question is, how far will you be trying to shoot? What kind of accuracy do you seek? Acceptable glass for distances out to 500 yards under "normal" conditions can be had at relatively low cost. $500.00 glass on a reasonably accurate production rifle can put you consistently inside a 4"-5" circle at 500 yards. If you have the need to shoot out to 1500 yards after trekking hours or days through miserable terrain you'll want to obtain better, more expensive glass mounted on the lightest rifle you can find.

Bottom line is the rifle and glass help make you better but if you lack the fundamental skills necessary to shoot accurately the best rifle, glass, and ammo in the world is not going to make you better. They'll provide a lot of bragging rights but the holes in your targets will tell everyone what they want, and you need, to know. You have to be able to afford not just the rifle and glass, but also the ammo to send down range. Obtain what you can afford to shoot and learn to be the best you can with what you have.
 
Thanks for the reply. So I'm a relatively new gun owner, I'm not looking for something to enter competitions or tournaments or anything of the sort. The goal for me is just sub-moa, and able to kill anything elk and below. I'm just now getting into hunting, with my first planned trip being a hog hunt in central California. For this purpose I figure .308 or .30-06 is more than enough, or so I've read. 6.5 CM seems a bit light for what I'm looking to do. In terms of weight, it doesn't really matter much to me as long as it weighs less than 11lbs. I know hunters tend to like their lighter rifles, but I don't see what all the fuss is about. I went and saw my buddies gun guy two days ago, and he showed me a couple of his bolt rifles for sale, and I've been checking online though shipping and ffl fees make the online route more expensive.

So, in essence what I'm looking for is a gun that can shoot sub-moa for less than 750$, with about 100-150 set aside for glass.
The questions you are asking may be a little basic for this group. You don’t ask formula 1 race drivers & mechanics “which shocks work best on my Civic?” Go to whatever shop has the most rifles on hand- try them for fit & appeal then pick the best bang for the buck MOA guaranteed rifle in 308 or 30-06. Buy the best glass you can afford & shoot a bunch. Invest in a basic reloading set-up to lessen the cost of trigger time. Shoot as far as ranges allow with a spotter to assist you see just how fun wind can make shooting. Kill some deer, pigs, bear, elk with that rifle - then ask these guys for tips on your long range high dollar competition rifle/scope.
 
The questions you are asking may be a little basic for this group. You don’t ask formula 1 race drivers & mechanics “which shocks work best on my Civic?” Go to whatever shop has the most rifles on hand- try them for fit & appeal then pick the best bang for the buck MOA guaranteed rifle in 308 or 30-06. Buy the best glass you can afford & shoot a bunch. Invest in a basic reloading set-up to lessen the cost of trigger time. Shoot as far as ranges allow with a spotter to assist you see just how fun wind can make shooting. Kill some deer, pigs, bear, elk with that rifle - then ask these guys for tips on your long range high dollar competition rifle/scope.
For someone new, they don’t know what they don’t know... Telling a new guy to try some rifles for fit doesn’t help if they don’t know what right feels like. “Shooting a bunch” doesn’t do anything if he doesn’t know how to learn from his misses.

There is nothing wrong with him coming here for his questions. Everyone here was once a beginner.
 
Savage10FCP.SR.jpg


Savage 10 FCP-SR in 6.5 CM with Atlas Bipod and Cheap Vortex Crossfire II 6-24X50 cost me $240. Cheap ass scope - cheap ass rifle. I was a beginner and a Poor.

100YardsandaNickle.jpg


100 yards and a Nickle - never have had a fail to feed, fail to extract, and still can't outshoot this cheap. Ass. Gun. Didn't need to spend thousands $ to get sub MOA accuracy. Even my Nephew who owns custom stuff shot this gun *better* than his Custom AI. You can get sub MOA accuracy from a sub $700 rig. I did it...as a dumb ass Newbie.

VooDoo
 
The Tikka love is strong... and it’s well deserved. It’s a great rifle at a good price and easy to change parts to meet specific needs. The REM 700 hate seems strong though and I think that’s a bit off base. I have a R700 .308 that is fun to shoot. The bolt is just as smooth as my Tikka 6.5. And at 200-300 yards is just as precise and when I got it, it was about half the price
 
  • Like
Reactions: GrumpyOleFart
So he should buy a rifle that he can't afford to shoot?
He is a poor student.
The .308 is an excellent choice for a beginner, in normal times, plentiful match ammo that is more reasonable to purchase, likewise the 6.5 CM.
Not to mention the punishing recoil of the magnum would make it a poor choice to learn to shoot on.
He has limited availability of rifles in his area, which is specifically why he mentioned the models he did.
Your recommendation in regards to the optic is spot on, that has been brought up previously.
This wetherby would be an excellent choice and fits in his budget:

Agree the 308 is a better choice for beginners. However, he did mention shooting elk, and at 300+ yards, a 308, particularly in the hands of a beginner, is a poor choice. Shooting at elk with any caliber requires good quality ammunition. The difference between 150 grain Barnes Vortex 308 ammo ($62.99) and 160 grain Barnes Vortex 7 mm rem mag ammo ($68.99) is $6 per box, or 30 cents per round (Midwayusa). So I don't think the cost of shooting is a valid arguement. There is plenty of cheap ammo in 7 mm remmag or 300 winmag available for practice.
Secondly, the addition of a muzzle brake will reduce the magnum recoil below that of an un-braked 308. Not to mention allowing second shot follow up shots much easier due to reduced muzzle jump. And for those who are anti-muzzle brake, remember the shooter in question has specifically indicated he wants to shoot big game at long range. By far the majority of shooters I know who take game at long range use either muzzle brakes or supressors. A suppressor is obviously out of the price range. It should be possible to get a brake installed on a rifle for around $120-$150. Add that to the $600 for a Weatherby Vanguard MOA, and you are right at the shooter's price point.
I learned to shoot on a braked 300 Weatherby mag. The recoil felt like half of what I experienced shooting my mate's lightweight 270 Winchester.
I have a Savage, and love it. I have multiple mates in NZ who shoot only Tikkas, and shoot them well. I only mention the Weatherby Vanguard because of the Weatherby guarantee. I don't think Tika or Savage guarantee their rifles to shoot sub MOA. They pro bably will shoot sub MOA, but iff youre starting out, why not go for the guarantee?
 
For someone new, they don’t know what they don’t know... Telling a new guy to try some rifles for fit doesn’t help if they don’t know what right feels like. “Shooting a bunch” doesn’t do anything if he doesn’t know how to learn from his misses.

There is nothing wrong with him coming here for his questions. Everyone here was once a beginner.
Please see the majority of responses- all well intentioned that include re-barreling, adding new laminated stocks, muzzle brakes, rifles double his budget all focused on 500 yard+ accuracy. The young man wants a hunting rifle he can play with long range. A knowledgeable mentor would be the most help he could get but if he has one it isn’t obvious. I’ve helped several young men & women get started hunting & elk hunting in particular they watch tv & show up with 24 power cheap scopes on their rifles fo make 100 yard shots at deer in $7 Chinese mounts.

This forum is very precision long range shooting centered and while there is a wealth of information it doesn’t necessarily cater to a new Hunter. The recommendations of Vanguard, Tikka, Savage, Ruger etc with good glass are still great for him. But our sport is fairly daunting for a newcomer trying to sort through the myriad choices & costly equipment. Getting started is the first step, once he has the bug for either long range shooting or elk hunting it will manage to empty his wallet often in search of a little better gear. Not saying the info isn’t accurate or helpful just not targeted.
 
Save some more money and get a Tikka CTR, .308, 6.5cm or .260

I've been down the savage and 700 rabbit hole, use the advice above.
 
Last edited:
Agree the 308 is a better choice for beginners. However, he did mention shooting elk, and at 300+ yards, a 308, particularly in the hands of a beginner, is a poor choice. Shooting at elk with any caliber requires good quality ammunition. The difference between 150 grain Barnes Vortex 308 ammo ($62.99) and 160 grain Barnes Vortex 7 mm rem mag ammo ($68.99) is $6 per box, or 30 cents per round (Midwayusa). So I don't think the cost of shooting is a valid arguement. There is plenty of cheap ammo in 7 mm remmag or 300 winmag available for practice.
Secondly, the addition of a muzzle brake will reduce the magnum recoil below that of an un-braked 308. Not to mention allowing second shot follow up shots much easier due to reduced muzzle jump. And for those who are anti-muzzle brake, remember the shooter in question has specifically indicated he wants to shoot big game at long range. By far the majority of shooters I know who take game at long range use either muzzle brakes or supressors. A suppressor is obviously out of the price range. It should be possible to get a brake installed on a rifle for around $120-$150. Add that to the $600 for a Weatherby Vanguard MOA, and you are right at the shooter's price point.
I learned to shoot on a braked 300 Weatherby mag. The recoil felt like half of what I experienced shooting my mate's lightweight 270 Winchester.
I have a Savage, and love it. I have multiple mates in NZ who shoot only Tikkas, and shoot them well. I only mention the Weatherby Vanguard because of the Weatherby guarantee. I don't think Tika or Savage guarantee their rifles to shoot sub MOA. They pro bably will shoot sub MOA, but iff youre starting out, why not go for the guarantee?
I understand your points, but the majority of his shooting is going to be at a range, shooting targets etc... The .300 WM is not particularly suited to learning the finer points of marksmanship. Maybe you aren't recoil sensitive, but most folks are to a certain degree.
Are you suggesting that spending 69 dollars for a box of ammunition to take to the range will help him learn to be a better shooter instead of the 24-30 dollar a box of match ammo?
Besides, 300 yards is a chip shot with a .308.
What he wants to do is learn to shoot. A good .308 or 6.5 CM is an excellent learning platform that is also a capable hunting round.
Hornady 178 grain eld X precision hunter can be had for 40 dollars and is quite sufficient for elk, if you want deeper penetration, the 165 GMX rounds are available for about 45 dollars a box.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kennyg
Please see the majority of responses- all well intentioned that include re-barreling, adding new laminated stocks, muzzle brakes, rifles double his budget all focused on 500 yard+ accuracy. The young man wants a hunting rifle he can play with long range. A knowledgeable mentor would be the most help he could get but if he has one it isn’t obvious. I’ve helped several young men & women get started hunting & elk hunting in particular they watch tv & show up with 24 power cheap scopes on their rifles fo make 100 yard shots at deer in $7 Chinese mounts.

This forum is very precision long range shooting centered and while there is a wealth of information it doesn’t necessarily cater to a new Hunter. The recommendations of Vanguard, Tikka, Savage, Ruger etc with good glass are still great for him. But our sport is fairly daunting for a newcomer trying to sort through the myriad choices & costly equipment. Getting started is the first step, once he has the bug for either long range shooting or elk hunting it will manage to empty his wallet often in search of a little better gear. Not saying the info isn’t accurate or helpful just not targeted.
I get what you’re saying. There’s nothing wrong with learning modern fundamentals mostly associated with long range shooters at the beginning. In fact that’s how it should be.

How many hunters get started learning recoil management and being squared up to the rifle? I would say most don’t. Growing up, I thought losing my target in my scope was just a fact of life when the ole .308 went boom. If he can avoid those pitfalls in the beginning, he’ll be better off for it.
 
It may be fair to say that if you want to hunt elk at 500+ distances you need a lot of target practice. Unless you are shooting consistently 1.5 moa or better 5-shot groups at 500 yards, I would say that hunting at such distance is a hazard.
 
I understand your points, but the majority of his shooting is going to be at a range, shooting targets etc... The .300 WM is not particularly suited to learning the finer points of marksmanship. Maybe you aren't recoil sensitive, but most folks are to a certain degree.
Are you suggesting that spending 69 dollars for a box of ammunition to take to the range will help him learn to be a better shooter instead of the 24-30 dollar a box of match ammo?
Besides, 300 yards is a chip shot with a .308.
What he wants to do is learn to shoot. A good .308 or 6.5 CM is an excellent learning platform that is also a capable hunting round.
Hornady 178 grain eld X precision hunter can be had for 40 dollars and is quite sufficient for elk, if you want deeper penetration, the 165 GMX rounds are available for about 45 dollars a box.
An elk standing broadside undisturbed a mile from the boundary makes that 308 or 6.5 an excellent choice. A nervous bull quartering toward you at 325 yards only 300 yards from the public /private line sure cries out for that 300. Ive seen an average size bull with 2 broken legs & a bullet through both lungs walk steadily towards the ranch border - only a spine shot stopped him from getting there.
 
Savage would be my choice. Just be sure to get a decent stock.

My 07? Savage 10fp-hsp is still boringly accurate and its never lost zero with its humble swfa ss 16x.

Another thing about Savage is you can get almost brand new take off barrels from various forums and aftermarket barrels that swap easily as well.
 
Tikkas are pretty damn reliable, probably the most reliable, best shooting factory rifles available. I did have one Tikka in my lifetime I had to send back because of a chamber issue, thats the only problem I can ever recall and Beretta took care of me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JTinMO
Except it was needed, and at the blurst of times, "ICU".

Blurst of times.
LOL, your funny.. I wonder how many savages have been in need of repair or Bergaras or any other manufacturer? I've had a shit ton of Tikka rifles through the years and had one singular issue, I think thats pretty damn good considering the amount of them I've had or my friends have had. I can't tell you how many people I've heard of having problems with other said rifles, especially savage rifles.. To each his own, but I would put a stock Tikka rifle against any of those other brands any day in any test you want to perform whether it be accuracy, functionality or whatever it may be... I currently own 4 Tikkas at the moment...
 
  • Like
Reactions: JTinMO
LOL, your funny.. I wonder how many savages have been in need of repair or Bergaras or any other manufacturer? I've had a shit ton of Tikka rifles through the years and had one singular issue, I think thats pretty damn good considering the amount of them I've had or my friends have had. I can't tell you how many people I've heard of having problems with other said rifles, especially savage rifles.. To each his own, but I would put a stock Tikka rifle against any of those other brands any day in any test you want to perform whether it be accuracy, functionality or whatever it may be... I currently own 4 Tikkas at the moment...

Dont know but both are mass produced economy rifles.
LOL, your funny.. I wonder how many savages have been in need of repair or Bergaras or any other manufacturer? I've had a shit ton of Tikka rifles through the years and had one singular issue, I think thats pretty damn good considering the amount of them I've had or my friends have had. I can't tell you how many people I've heard of having problems with other said rifles, especially savage rifles.. To each his own, but I would put a stock Tikka rifle against any of those other brands any day in any test you want to perform whether it be accuracy, functionality or whatever it may be... I currently own 4 Tikkas at the moment...
Never seen or shot a bergara.

Seen and shot lots through Tikkas.

Smooth bolt, apparent high fit and finish, but no reliability. I am careful to point out a .223 sucks democrats at anything beyond close range.

My Savage has been itself-boring and accurate and reliable for years. I can deal with a less smooth action for the instant feedback of an accurate rifle. Mine is stock, but I can smooth it up.

Love Scandinavia but there is no way its.a.better value.
 
Dont know but both are mass produced economy rifles.

Never seen or shot a bergara.

Seen and shot lots through Tikkas.

Smooth bolt, apparent high fit and finish, but no reliability. I am careful to point out a .223 sucks democrats at anything beyond close range.

My Savage has been itself-boring and accurate and reliable for years. I can deal with a less smooth action for the instant feedback of an accurate rifle. Mine is stock, but I can smooth it up.

Love Scandinavia but there is no way its.a.better value.
Okay dude, whatever you say, keep enjoying your salvage and I'll stick with my Tikkas that apparently don't shoot, especially my 223 Tikka. Maybe it wasn't the rifle that was the problem, I don't know... Anyway I'm done arguing... Let the OP make his own decision..
target_image.jpg
 
Okay dude, whatever you say, keep enjoying your salvage and I'll stick with my Tikkas that apparently don't shoot, especially my 223 Tikka. Maybe it wasn't the rifle that was the problem, I don't know... Anyway I'm done arguing... Let the OP make his own decision..
View attachment 7556001
Distance 250 yards.

Thank you.

Also tikka sucks for reliability.

Not trying to fight you, in fact I like talking to people from west virginia.

Let us no longer swing purses at others.

But all should agree that .223 is a lame choice at.even medium range.
 
Distance 250 yards.

Thank you.

Also tikka sucks for reliability.

Not trying to fight you, in fact I like talking to people from west virginia.

Let us no longer swing purses at others.

But all should agree that .223 is a lame choice at.even medium range.
Like I said before, I am done arguing and definitely not fighting. I actually enjoy shooting some 223 myself, as far as reliability of the Tikka, I guess we will have to agree to disagree.. The only real complaint I have with Tikka rifles is that their barrels seem a bit slower than some others, thats it.. Enjoy your Savage my fellow hider, maybe someone else will chime in with their opinion on this one.. Later..
 
  • Like
Reactions: Davo308
Howa 1500 barreled actions can be bought from Brownells.com.


They recently released one in 6.5 PRC that sounds like it would fit your needs. Brownells usually has 10% off (or more) coupons that can be applied to these as well. The price used to be even lower but it seems it's been creeping up lately.

With the remaining money there are several stock options available. A simple boyds laminate stock can do the trick.

The best/only way to make a budget rifle really work is to be able to do a lot of the work yourself. Example if you can pillar/epoxy bed your own rifle that is huge.

The Howa/vanguard has a sub moa guarantee and with all the stock options you can configure it for your specific needs.

I was in your same shoes a few years ago. (college student) and since your "new" to guns, don't forget to allocate a budget for ammo, gear and other peripherals. Which can quickly cost more than the rifle. (Also I too would rate the importance of optics above the rifle)
 
This is a pepsi vs coke question all day long. Today there are so many great options. I went with the tikka ctr and dropped it in a krg xray with enclosed forend. Love mine, and it shoots better than i can. Only thing i have seen negative with these is the factory speed out of the barrels. Maybe 150fps slower than some of the aftermarket options. If you dont shoot comps i dont really see the 150fps an issue. Again lots of options but ill throw my vote in for TIKKA.
 
But all should agree that .223 is a lame choice at.even medium range.
Only bad thing about shooting a 223 over 1000 yards is you'd better have some good paint on the target to spot your hits. Sure, it's not the choice for PRS. Otherwise, they are great at those distances when you load them right. I'm not throwing 50 grs out that far. :cool:
 
Only bad thing about shooting a 223 over 1000 yards is you'd better have some good paint on the target to spot your hits. Sure, it's not the choice for PRS. Otherwise, they are great at those distances when you load them right. I'm not throwing 50 grs out that far. :cool:
I'm slingin 77 grain TMK's.... I haven't taken it out that far, waiting for all this shitty weather to break in a month or so, itchin to get out a little with my mask on and do some shooting.. Lol 😷
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jayhawkhuntclub
Tikka is the best bang for the buck

never buy a Savage no return on investment, aftermarket support is lacking, many gunsmiths avoid them,

The SH Rifle from APO is based off a Remington 700, gets air gauged and looked at prior, with chassis it's ready to role at $1995 but this a bit after market

Tikka, the answer is always a Tikka
100% Honest answer love it “TIKKA
ANSWER IS ALWAYS TIKKA !!!! Could not have said any better myself Brother.