What is everyone using for bolt lug grease? Does it matter, or is it one of those mental masturbation things? Like, as long as there's some kind of grease on the back of the lugs, does it really matter what it is? I'm currently using Slide Glide Heavy, but I'm certainly open to using something else.
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Gunsmithing Bolt lug grease
- Thread starter BurnOut
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I'm using Battle Born Grease. I don't think it would make a difference if it was a different grease.
Been using this for a while. Does a pretty good job on any metal to metal contact.
Mobil 1 synthetic hi-temp wheel bearing grease, one can will last a lifetime.
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I tried Tetra several years ago, but found that it didn't store very well; if I lubed up a gun and tossed it in the safe for a year or so, the Tetra would end up with the appearance and consistency of peanut butter. Have you had better luck with it in that regard?
Interesting. I haven't had it get thick like that, but it does separate which can be annoying. I just knead the tube well before using it to get everything mixed up again.
Anything that has a Timken rating of 45 or greater is more than enough. Never use white lithium grease.
Huh... white lithium is actually something that I was thinking of trying... what makes it ill suited to this application?
Please understand that I'm not trying to "call you out" or anything like that, but instead I am trying to learn in an effort to deepen my understanding of this subject matter.
I don't use white lithium because it gets thick in cold temps. Also, it has a horrible pressure/shear factor. The lugs are basically wiped clean after a few lockups. If you use it inside of a bolt you can essentially stop a full firing pin protrusion after it dries and cakes up in the front of the bolt.
I mean it will work in a pinch, but not the best choice.
I mean it will work in a pinch, but not the best choice.
Ah, that makes sense. I'm thinking of trying something with a bunch of molybdenum disulfide; obviously temperature stability isn't much of a concern in this application (it certainly isn't a high temp application in the world of lubricants), but rather shear strength and pressure load handling.
MoS2 isn't bad at all, probably the king in fact. It'll make a damn mess though. Just be aware that whatever you get it on is probably not going to clean off.
Anything will work really, it's not a big deal. As long as the viscosity isn't restrictive and it doesn't dry into a cake then all is well.
Anything will work really, it's not a big deal. As long as the viscosity isn't restrictive and it doesn't dry into a cake then all is well.
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Plus it builds a coating that stops other lubes from adhering to the surface it is/was on. Many parts & Engine mfg's that supply parts for high pressure apps will not warranty their parts if White lithium was ever used upon them.
Been using variations of SLIP2000 oil and grease for different systems. No matter what you do, any grease is going to slow down bolt manipulation is cold weather; so is oil, but to a lesser degree. Knowing this, I use very very light applications in the cold for bolt guns (grease), and a slight bit more in warm weather. For oil (Semi autos) .. I use an absurd amount in all temps.
This is probably unrelated with respect to white lithium grease but I have been using it for black powder applications for the past 30-plus years.
I use it on the threads of the nipples and there is never any carbon build up. In addition, I have a Sharps paper-cartridge rifle.
In that rifle, I pack the cavity inside the gas check with white lithium grease and never have a problem removing it after I've shot it all day. In addition, that same gas check never fails to keep gas from escaping from the breech.
I also use the white lithium on the arbors of the colt-style revolvers and cylinder pins of the Remingtons. This always keeps the cylinders from binding due to carbon buildup.
Lately, I've read that some cap and ball shooters have been using white lithium grease to cover the balls in the chambers of the cap and ball revolvers. That wasn't without it's critics who were saying to never use it because you would never be able to get it out of the bore of the firearm.
I tried using it to place over the balls and didn't have any problems and it cleaned up without any problem. Now here's were my narrative will relate to one of the posts above that said the white lithium would be difficult to remove.
I don't clean my black powder guns with the traditional method of hot soapy water, which might be why some shooters can't get it off their guns. I use a solution of equal parts of, Murphy's Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide.
I use that solution just like a regular solvent for cleaning a firearm with smokeless powder. That's probably why I've never had any problem with removing traces of white lithium grease from my black powder guns.
I also dabbed a little white lithium grease on a piece of plastic the other night the wiped it clear with one swipe of my DIY black powder cleaning solution.
Now I'm not saying that there won't be traces of that grease left on metal surfaces on a molecular level, but from the naked eye and feel, I can't detect any greasy residue.
I use to use Moly Lube on all my actions but didn't like the black stuff getting on my skin and clothing and leaving a stain. For the past year, I've had excellent results using the Mil-Com grease, which is white and doesn't stain.
I use it on the threads of the nipples and there is never any carbon build up. In addition, I have a Sharps paper-cartridge rifle.
In that rifle, I pack the cavity inside the gas check with white lithium grease and never have a problem removing it after I've shot it all day. In addition, that same gas check never fails to keep gas from escaping from the breech.
I also use the white lithium on the arbors of the colt-style revolvers and cylinder pins of the Remingtons. This always keeps the cylinders from binding due to carbon buildup.
Lately, I've read that some cap and ball shooters have been using white lithium grease to cover the balls in the chambers of the cap and ball revolvers. That wasn't without it's critics who were saying to never use it because you would never be able to get it out of the bore of the firearm.
I tried using it to place over the balls and didn't have any problems and it cleaned up without any problem. Now here's were my narrative will relate to one of the posts above that said the white lithium would be difficult to remove.
I don't clean my black powder guns with the traditional method of hot soapy water, which might be why some shooters can't get it off their guns. I use a solution of equal parts of, Murphy's Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide.
I use that solution just like a regular solvent for cleaning a firearm with smokeless powder. That's probably why I've never had any problem with removing traces of white lithium grease from my black powder guns.
I also dabbed a little white lithium grease on a piece of plastic the other night the wiped it clear with one swipe of my DIY black powder cleaning solution.
Now I'm not saying that there won't be traces of that grease left on metal surfaces on a molecular level, but from the naked eye and feel, I can't detect any greasy residue.
I use to use Moly Lube on all my actions but didn't like the black stuff getting on my skin and clothing and leaving a stain. For the past year, I've had excellent results using the Mil-Com grease, which is white and doesn't stain.
Go find a car forum and ask what the best oil to use in your car is. Especially fun if asking about an air cooled VW type 1. I've seen literal multiple hundred page debates with no conclusion.
I liked fire clean, and I think it was exposed that it's just vegetable oil. So I use vegetable oil now... Just don't run it dirty and dry at the same time.
I liked fire clean, and I think it was exposed that it's just vegetable oil. So I use vegetable oil now... Just don't run it dirty and dry at the same time.
Engine assembly lube since I have it here. If it can take the pressure of start up on bearings and cams, it should be fine for lubing the lugs.
I've been using Montana Extreme Gun Grease.
http://www.montanaxtreme.com/products/?id=11&product=GunGrease
http://www.montanaxtreme.com/products/?id=11&product=GunGrease
Lubriplate SFL-0.
I bought it from these guys,
https://lubrikit.com/
after reading this
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/
I bought it from these guys,
https://lubrikit.com/
after reading this
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2006/05/lubrication-101/
Did you try the oil as well, or just the grease? Also I noticed they have a version with "Hexagonal Boron Nitride" added to the grease. Anyone know if there are any benefits to this additive in bolt/gas guns? I have heard of it used in muzzle loaders, but thought it was a dry lube that was used to coat the barrel (by applying to bullets).
Still using a syringe of the red Shooter's Choice I've had for, oh, 22 years now... any high quality grease is fine.
Yes, I bought the kit with two syringes of SFL-0 Grease and a bottle of FMO 350-AW oil. Very happy with it and I think it will last me a long time.
Can't comment on the grease with hBN added. I just went for the standard stuff as recommended in the article I linked above.
LUCAS xtra heavy duty, I switched to this from the red and tacky.
Timken load rating of 60, stable in all temps and stays were you put it.
I'm pretty sure it's also what is in the applicator syringes that come with Kelbly actions.
Timken load rating of 60, stable in all temps and stays were you put it.
I'm pretty sure it's also what is in the applicator syringes that come with Kelbly actions.
I have two of the Atlas actions now and the one that has been cycled a bit is super smooth with the grease applied sparingly to the lugs and sear and I have been using a moly based oil one the race ways and bolt body.
Haven't tried it with anything but a light film since they run so smooth and don't see any need for more.
Haven't tried it with anything but a light film since they run so smooth and don't see any need for more.
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