Bore patches absolutely will not come out clean :-(

Pretty sure this thread was MOA back in 2013, then it was RIP, but now it's definitely Mil.

The one thing that never changed was Lowlight's recommended cleaning procedure! "Hint" (Maybe I'm the exception, I miss that guy).

Thanks Lowlight

I just got to the range Sunday with my first decent bolt rifle & am applying his cleaning advice.

Didn't go crazy for barrel break in either. I used to build racing engines & if built right, they don't need break in (talking roller motors)!
Just put them on the dyno get em up to temp and put the hammer down, never an issue, not ever!

The factory already shot 3 rounds so I just cleaned it before heading to the range.

Put 30 through it at the range, 100y zero check, brought it home, nut and bolted it, & re-cleaned using 8 patches.
Ready for 200 round training in 2 weeks.

I had already heard this 8 patch method laid out on one of the everyday sniper podcast's and tried to follow it with what I have.
  • 2 x wet patches of Butches Bore Shine pushed through.
  • 1 x wet patch Butches stroked 3-4 times (I have nylon brushes on the way).
  • 2 x dry patches pushed through.
  • 1 x wet (not sopping wet) patch of Hoppe's #9 (not the Hoppe's copper 9) pushed through to clean residual Butches.
  • 2 x dry patches pushed through & done.
BTW - It's a pretty good shooter, especially considering I am not. As of yet untrained & haven't shot a bolt gun in......can't remember!

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  • Haha
Reactions: PracticalTactical
Cleaning threads are getting redundant and ignorant. Reviving an old post like this, good job, wonder if opinions have changed.
We are all right in our methods, or so we think. If your rifle is not acting like you expect it to or did, changes needs to be made. Anytime I see a change, out comes the magneto, and most likely a cleaning brush, these are simple to do and verify.
 
To OP (and the rest), you realize that not cleaning after each range session you are layering the carbon and the copper in the bore. Therefore when you clean it takes more effort to get it clean. You have to clean one and then the other until it is clean. Powder turns to carbon after about 10 days, Solvents will not remove carbon, some do better than others but they will not remove it completely, you have to use a paste that removes it mechanically.

If you don't use a brush, how do you get the copper and carbon out of the bottom of the lands? I've tried nylon brushes and the fact is they just are not strong enough to remove the stuff. (Yes we bore scoped it to see)

I'll listen to the man who made my barrel, rifled it and lapped it. I clean it within 10 days of shooting, completely. Copper is removed every so often but that's because it does not copper foul like factory barrels. Both my .308 and .260 have no impact shift with the clean cold bore shot, I've seen and done it. My .308 has around 5K on it and will go 10K easily.

Fact is every barrel is different and each is made differently even from the same maker.
Used to clean after every firing. Don’t do it any more. My rifles shoot very accurately. I bet if I take out all the layers you describe I might have to shoot many rounds to get back the accuracy I had before removing them.