Bore Tech C4 - when something lives up to the hype

[Mr. Wolf]

Many have posted their methods of cleaning the dreaded carbon ring in their rimfire rifles with Bore Tech C4.
I've used Bore Tech Rimfire Blend previously and getting the last bit of the carbon ring out was an hour long process with soaking followed by 100+ short strokes with the nylon brush.

I ordered a 4 oz bottle that cost ~$16 delivered and was thinking that this stuff can't be as good as touted on the forums.
I wrapped a small patch around a jag, put 4 drops of C4 on it and let it sit in the chamber for 10 minutes then rotated the patch a few times and removed it.

Ran the bore scope to see how many more times I needed to do this and it was clean as new!

Color me impressed. This 4 oz bottle should last me several years. Best money I've spent on what I thought was an overhyped product.

Happy shooting.

 

[Tazmon]

Has anyone tried Slip2000 Carbon Killer?
If so, what has been your results?

 

[jbell]

The C4 is all you need for rimfire. I have been using it and testing it against all other non abrasive non caustic cleaners since it came out, there is none better.

 

[Defender32]

Bought the LARGE bottle a couple years ago and have not used 4oz of it yet!!! I'll place a wet mop in the chamber and leave it until I remember it was doing something. Twist it in the chamber a few times. Then twist a nylon brush a few times and patch it dry. Ring is always gone!!

 

[Trung Si Ma]

Set my rifle up on the tripod and put a C4 soaked mop in the chamber before I left for work this morning. By the time I get home it will be ready for the mop to be twisted out and a Rimfire Blend soaked patch run through the barrel followed by a couple of dry ones and I'm ready for another week.

I even use C4 to soak my suppressor baffles and my absolutely filthy 617 cylinder (should probably clean that thing when the round count is still in the 3-digit region).

 

[ECK]

I’ve been using VGW’s recommended method for cleaning (bore mop w/ C4, let sit, nylon brush, then patch out) ever since I got my Vudoo last spring. It’s quick and painless so I’ve been doing it after every outing (I usually shoot between 100-200 rnds per outing) and so far so good with regard to no cold bore shifts and overall accuracy. I have noticed that my first shot on a clean barrel @ 50 yds is usually .4 high and .2 left, but it reverts back to zero by the 2nd shot. Last month I finally got around to getting a bore scope and confirmed that the chamber did not have any evidence of a carbon ring and the rest of the bore looked pretty good.

I think the take-home for me was all the regular cleaning never allowed a carbon ring to form in the first place, and not cleaning the bore to preserve what VGW calls “good seasoning” has been working in the accuracy/consistency department for NRL22 and PRS22.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

I’ve been using VGW’s recommended method for cleaning (bore mop w/ C4, let sit, nylon brush, then patch out) ever since I got my Vudoo last spring. It’s quick and painless so I’ve been doing it after every outing (I usually shoot between 100-200 rnds per outing) and so far so good with regard to no cold bore shifts and overall accuracy. I have noticed that my first shot on a clean barrel @ 50 yds is usually .4 high and .2 left, but it reverts back to zero by the 2nd shot. Last month I finally got around to getting a bore scope and confirmed that the chamber did not have any evidence of a carbon ring and the rest of the bore looked pretty good.

I think the take-home for me was all the regular cleaning never allowed a carbon ring to form in the first place, and not cleaning the bore to preserve what VGW calls “good seasoning” has been working in the accuracy/consistency department for NRL22 and PRS22.

My experience for NRL22/PRS22 style shooting as well.
Regular chamber cleaning only has significantly reduced cold bore shift.
After cleaning the chamber only, my B14r and Kidd takes 3-5 shots to get back to zeroed point of aim and normal sized groups but my Lothar barrels Cz457 takes 15-20.
YMMV, happy shooting

 

[Fasteddie01]

I bought the large bottle in March 2020 and am down about 1/2. I have 6x 22s and also use C4 in my SKS and Ruger Ranch x39 since Milsurp is reallllly dirty. I was 2nd civilian owner of the SKS and it came to me with a black bore. Now its shiney and shoots 3-4 MOA with irons.
PS - Trung si ma - you shouldn't need to 'soak all day', usually 1/2 hour is all I need after a couple hundred rounds. My SKS does need a longer soak, tho.

 

[Trung Si Ma]

I bought the large bottle in March 2020 and am down about 1/2. I have 6x 22s and also use C4 in my SKS and Ruger Ranch x39 since Milsurp is reallllly dirty. I was 2nd civilian owner of the SKS and it came to me with a black bore. Now its shiney and shoots 3-4 MOA with irons.
PS - Trung si ma - you shouldn't need to 'soak all day', usually 1/2 hour is all I need after a couple hundred rounds. My SKS does need a longer soak, tho.

I wasn't referring to a "need" as much as I was showing the "ease". The rifle normally sits on the tripod for dry firing and the C4 application is easy and painless.

 

[Rimfireshooter99]

The C4 is all you need for rimfire. I have been using it and testing it against all other non abrasive non caustic cleaners since it came out, there is none better.

Jbell, a question. Have you ever tried Hoppe's No. 9 for carbon removal? I've heard from some folks that it works well, but have not tried it myself.

Larry

 

[jbell]

Jbell, a question. Have you ever tried Hoppe's No. 9 for carbon removal? I've heard from some folks that it works well, but have not tried it myself.

Larry

Yes, it was all I used for about 20 years, it works very well and smells even better. Then TM solution came out and that was my go to. But once Boretech C4 hit the scene I haven't found anything that works better for carbon. But No. 9 is good enough if you give it enough time.

 

[Polaris13]

+1 on the C4. As a matter of fact, I use the Vudoo rifle cleaning method (search YouTube) on rifles and pistols. A Teslong borescope is another mandatory piece of cleaning equipment as well. This system has made cleaning faster and easier.

 

[Big Phish]

It all I use now but I also go another step after all the cleaning is done. I take a Tetra gun oil soaked patch and run it slowly though through and let it sit over night then a dry patch.

 

[Ernest 5.56]

I would be curious what the results would be head to head with Sharp Shoot R CARB-OUT

Anyone switch?

 

[Mina_]

Has anyone tried Slip2000 Carbon Killer?
If so, what has been your results?

I love slip 2000 ewl for lubrication and have used it for years in everything with good results, but the carbon killer was a dud for me. C4 is the answer in my experience. Ymmv.

 

[Vodak]

Has anyone tried Slip2000 Carbon Killer?
If so, what has been your results?

I have a bottle. Did not like it at all. Doesn’t do much if anything and if I remember correctly it’s water based so there’s a chance of it getting under barrel funk and leaving rust.

 

[6.5SH]

I would be curious what the results would be head to head with Sharp Shoot R CARB-OUT

Anyone switch?

I expected better from it given the warnings on the can. Gumout carb and choke cleaner seemed to work better for me.

If those or C4 aren't getting it done then it's on to JB or 40X for me. I try not to let stuff go that long that an abrasive is needed.

I also found the Slip2000 Carbon Killer ineffective. Surprising given the fact it can damage some finishes.

 

[Precision Quest]

Hoppes used to sell a bottle of foamy carbon remover and it worked well - especially getting carbon out of a 300 win mag after using RE26 (dirty powder). But haven't seen it in this specific product in a few years now.

I now use C4 in all my rimfires and nothing else. The stuff works well.
thks

 

[littlesister]

Many have posted their methods of cleaning the dreaded carbon ring in their rimfire rifles with Bore Tech C4.
I've used Bore Tech Rimfire Blend previously and getting the last bit of the carbon ring out was an hour long process with soaking followed by 100+ short strokes with the nylon brush.

I ordered a 4 oz bottle that cost ~$16 delivered and was thinking that this stuff can't be as good as touted on the forums.
I wrapped a small patch around a jag, put 4 drops of C4 on it and let it sit in the chamber for 10 minutes then rotated the patch a few times and removed it.

Ran the bore scope to see how many more times I needed to do this and it was clean as new!

Color me impressed. This 4 oz bottle should last me several years. Best money I've spent on what I thought was an overhyped product.

Happy shooting.

Several good products mentioned in replies. C4 is one of the best at removing carbon, but C4 like the rest of them is extremely overpriced. I use something that is as good or better at carbon removal at a fraction of the cost. Simple Green yes Simple Green will remove that carbon ring but don't use it if you're into that seasoned barrel thing as it will make your barrel squeaky clean.

 

[clsx]

My only gripe with BoreTech liquid products is that the bottle cap tends to leak during use. If they sold needle applicators that made a good seal with the bottle, I'd buy them in a heartbeat.

 

[6.5SH]

My only gripe with BoreTech liquid products is that the bottle cap tends to leak during use. If they sold needle applicators that made a good seal with the bottle, I'd buy them in a heartbeat.

Bruno's site doesn't show pics of these:

Bruno Leakproof Oiler Archives | Bruno Shooters Supply

www.brunoshooters.com

But are what I use for solvent or oil. Are coated plastic bottles with long flexible plastic oiler tube and a push/pull spout on the cap.

 

[Big Phish]

You can find these bottle at gun show, Hobby lobby or fly fishing shop. Hobby shops that sell air brush equipments is another place you will find these specially bottles so they don't leak. While I never thought about it and will do this to now as this is a brilliant idea as I have been using these bottle to apply small drops of oil instead of wasting expensive oils and such.

 

[ToddM]

My only gripe with BoreTech liquid products is that the bottle cap tends to leak during use. If they sold needle applicators that made a good seal with the bottle, I'd buy them in a heartbeat.

Agreed their bottles are horrible, and much worse if you get their big bottles. They sell various needle applicator bottles but I've always figured the solvent would probably eat them away after awhile, especially since most of them you find are low density polyethylene, instead of the more resistant high density, BoreTech's site even mentions their bottles are HDPE.

The only other thing that gives me a bit of pause with Bore Tech, is the thread from Frank Green (bartlein barrels) where he mentions that they've seen some unexplained barrel pitting with users that report using Bore Tech. Who knows what caused it, what else they might have been using etc. I never did so, but since reading it, I definitely would not leave it in a barrel for storage as Bore Tech suggests you can. I've always either used just Hoppe's #9 or Barricade Rust Protection for longer term storage and just patch it out before heading to the range.

 

[Rimfireshooter99]

I just switched from Boretech to Hoppe's. Works very well and is safe with a long history of use in barrels.

 

[Pkdmslf]

My only gripe with BoreTech liquid products is that the bottle cap tends to leak during use. If they sold needle applicators that made a good seal with the bottle, I'd buy them in a heartbeat.

Yes, it seemed like I waste more when dispensing from the bottles. I found some small plastic bottles with needle applicators on Amazon. Works great and I can dispense with a lot less waste. I was always looking for the latest and greatest solvents and have a bunch of different brands. I'm down to 3. Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover, Rimfire Blend and some Hornady One Shot Cleaner & Lube. That's all I use now. It works.

 

[*rim-star*]

I have been using C4 for about a year, one wet patch through the bore with C4 and soak the chamber about 30 mins, 3 or 4 dry patches after. I have over 1600 rounds thru my Tikka, never had a brush in it, and accuracy is as good or better then when I started. I use it for ARA factory class and casual plinking.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Getting ready for a local match. Barrel had 400 rounds of Lapua Center X through it.
Photo 1: jag, patch, and 4 drops of BoreTech C4
Photo 2: pre clean chamber
Photo 3: patch after 15 min soak and 3 full rotation of the patch inside the chamber
Photo 4: cleaned chamber after 1 dry patch

Very simple and quick carbon ring clean up.
My factory Bergara B14r chamber is black, like burnished metal and the silver metal is probably where the opening of the case scrapes the chamber. Regarding the black ring between the rifling and the silver ring, I don't think that this is a carbon ring since the light from the bore scope reflects (compare photo 2 and 4).
I'd be interested in your thoughts and opinions.

YMMV and happy shooting

 

[Fasteddie01]

Mr. Wolf - When New, did your chamber look Black like that. I don't have a berg so maybe they 'grow' like that ? NONE of my rifles, even my '51 Tula SKS, look that black. I keep them all shiney.
If you have some extended time shooting that before trying C4, maybe you need to use an all-Brass brush to clean that off? Here are b4 and after on my Sav-64 that I 'cleaned normally' with H#9 for several years before I got on the C4 wagon. The b4 is a bit blurry but looks like your chamber. You may have got most of the Carbon, but there's a lot still there. I'd suggest that you try leaving the very-wet-patch in the chamber overnite, then if that doesn't clean it, go for the brush. Just a few seconds rotating in the chamber may do the trick.

 

[Fasteddie01]

PS to all - I save small 'eye drops' bottles that only hold 10-15ml, and refill them with C4 from the 16oz bottles. Y'all are right, the OEM bottles are leaky, especially the 16oz. I usually put 4-6 drops on a patch to soak the chamber, then after 1/2 hour or so I run that 'damp patch' on thru the bore to pick up any other debris. Then an Alcohol patch, then a dry one. That way most of the "Seasoning" remains in the bore.

 

[jbell]

Slightly off topic, but… I stopped using patches many years ago, all I use now are the VFG Felts. I turn the jag & adapter down a bit to reduce the OD and smooth out all the corners with sand paper and turning them in a drill. It is a one time modification and only takes a few seconds.

VFG .22 CAL. FELT RIFLE CLEANERS (500 pk) (66814)(331884) | Champion's Choice

Dewey Thread Adapter use 22 to 26 Cal Rods VFG Felt Pellets 8 x 36

These specialty thread adapters give Dewey rods even more versatility by allowing the shooter to interchange accessories and even use accessories that...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[Precision Quest]

Getting ready for a local match. Barrel had 400 rounds of Lapua Center X through it.
Photo 1: jag, patch, and 4 drops of BoreTech C4
Photo 2: pre clean chamber
Photo 3: patch after 15 min soak and 3 full rotation of the patch inside the chamber
Photo 4: cleaned chamber after 1 dry patch

Very simple and quick carbon ring clean up.
My factory Bergara B14r chamber is black, like burnished metal and the silver metal is probably where the opening of the case scrapes the chamber. Regarding the black ring between the rifling and the silver ring, I don't think that this is a carbon ring since the light from the bore scope reflects (compare photo 2 and 4).
I'd be interested in your thoughts and opinions.

YMMV and happy shooting
View attachment 8212512View attachment 8212515

That does not look like any carbon ring I have seen...especially after only 400 rounds. Did you scope it on day 1?

 

[Mr. Wolf]

That does not look like any carbon ring I have seen...especially after only 400 rounds. Did you scope it on day 1?

I'll try the overnight soak.
After the Silver portion, the rest of the chamber looks shiny and black as if it was burnished or blued.
Overnight soak and I'll report back.

 

[Mr. Wolf]

The overnight soak and quick plastic bristle scrub didn't loosen any more carbon on the wet patch or subsequent dry patches. The chamber had the same black burnished and reflective surface as my previous post. The first photo is at the same location as my previous post after the overnight soak, the second photo is the csame reflective black color at the mid point of my chamber.
No cold bore shifts during the match today, shot probably a .25" bughole group during 50 yard zero. The rifle shot really well, my positional shooting was kuch to be desired.
I'll post pictures when I clean the Cz457 with the Lothar Walther barrel.
YMMV, happy shooting

 

[Mr. Wolf]

Cz457 Lothar Walther barrel with ~250 rounds.
Carbon ring photo 1.
Photo 2 = 10 min wet patch, 2-3 turns of the wet patch in the chamber and a dry patch and it's clean as new.
Love the Bore Tech C4 and kind of smells lemony fresh too.
Ymmv, happy shooting

 

[Rimfireshooter99]

I use these dropper bottles. A 3 pack available at Hobby Lobby. They don't leak and I have used them with Boretech RFB, C4 and Hoppe's #9. The nozzle comes out so you can fill them from the Boretech bulk bottles, insert the nozzle, put the cap on, and it's ready for use.

Dropper Bottles | Hobby Lobby | 1635630

Prepare yourself with the tools to dispense liquid colors. Dropper Bottles can be used to dispense and store most liquid mediums. Create your own custom colors or finishes, then apply the medium directly to whatever surface you choose!

www.hobbylobby.com