Oh yes. The guy that says brass melts before it anneals. Totally vindicated.
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Join the contestIf You weren't so ignorant ,you'd possibly know the difference between melting and annealing . Two totally separate circumstances .Oh yes. The guy that says brass melts before it anneals. Totally vindicated.
IT most certainly can happen prior to annealing ,NO different too any other metal being annealed . IF one elevates the Temperature high enough material MELTS or liquefies before annealing can occur . Annealing shifts atoms within the metals structure ,allowing grain or lattice restructuring and this can NEVER happen with cartridge brass REGARDLESS OF TEMPERATURE ,as we haven't the TIME to allow it too .You’ve stated that melting happens before annealing.
This past weekend, I annealed about 400 cases; 100, 338LM, 100, 308 Win and 200, 223 Rem. In the past, I use to place the cases in a water bath and dim the lighting so I could see the color change. I had a few problems in the past: making sure I got the brass temperature right and keeping them upright in the bath till after annealing when they would be knocked over in the water for quenching. So with this batch I did things a little different I used the temperature liquid that dried green in color, and liquefied at the 750 degree point and I used a bunch of plastic reloading blocks to hold the cases. The blocks had to be weighted down (I used lead bullets) to keep them from floating. The heating worked pretty good but I needed three hands and eyes to watch the change in the paint and watch the flame then to remove the cases from the blocks and lay them flat in the bath. So I put my granddaughter to work helping out; especially since she is the primary user of the 223. The moving of the cases worked good (she used a pair of piers to move them)
The ceases were then tumbled and dried for visual inspection. The cases were smooth, no cracking under 5x magnification, I saw no abnormalities.
I just finished loading all the 338 Lapua and 308 Winchester and am starting on the 223 Remington. There was no problem seating the bullets no necks developed cracks.
On the next warm day, I will shoot some of this and see how they do after firing.
But you’re not annealing, right?I set up MY Annealeez a little different from their factory configuration . Bought an angle ball stud mount fully adjustable clamp setup ,drilled a couple of extra holes in the aluminum case . Rerouted the fuel hose and mounted a precision flame torch pointing away from the cartridge case body .
It now aims at the case shoulder and neck ,rather than being a 90 Deg. intersecting flame it's perhaps 42-45 Deg. ,going away from the machine.
Did Three things , kept the case body and wheels cooler ,it also eliminated that funky phony clamp joke it came with . I've done K's of cases without incidents . In the beginning I used Tempilaq 850 Deg. F. down below shoulders and on case bases just above rebated rim 250 Deg. F .
I then recorded times for ALL Rifle cases I reload for ,so as to eliminate Tempilacq altogether . Measured 1144-1216 Deg. F. at neck ,yet by aiming flame away from the body ,bases never melted the 250 Deg. F. solution . So cases drop into aluminum tray without need for water .
As I quick polish those cases afterwords and size necks while bumping shoulder ,that single reworking restores just the right amount of spring back .
I then can shoot #3 reloads before redoing them again . So far Excellent results as I've gotten #28 reloads on M1 Garand 1942-68 original once fired brass ,so far . Something is working right and haven't lost a single case . I'm going to load those 30-06 until I reach #40 reloads and will then sacrifice one case by slitting it and measuring wall thicknesses in various places . I already have one once fired NO loads slit for comparison .
I set up MY Annealeez a little different from their factory configuration . Bought an angle ball stud mount fully adjustable clamp setup ,drilled a couple of extra holes in the aluminum case . Rerouted the fuel hose and mounted a precision flame torch pointing away from the cartridge case body .
It now aims at the case shoulder and neck ,rather than being a 90 Deg. intersecting flame it's perhaps 42-45 Deg. ,going away from the machine.
Did Three things , kept the case body and wheels cooler ,it also eliminated that funky phony clamp joke it came with . I've done K's of cases without incidents . In the beginning I used Tempilaq 850 Deg. F. down below shoulders and on case bases just above rebated rim 250 Deg. F .
I then recorded times for ALL Rifle cases I reload for ,so as to eliminate Tempilacq altogether . Measured 1144-1216 Deg. F. at neck ,yet by aiming flame away from the body ,bases never melted the 250 Deg. F. solution . So cases drop into aluminum tray without need for water .
As I quick polish those cases afterwords and size necks while bumping shoulder ,that single reworking restores just the right amount of spring back .
I then can shoot #3 reloads before redoing them again . So far Excellent results as I've gotten #28 reloads on M1 Garand 1942-68 original once fired brass ,so far . Something is working right and haven't lost a single case . I'm going to load those 30-06 until I reach #40 reloads and will then sacrifice one case by slitting it and measuring wall thicknesses in various places . I already have one once fired NO loads slit for comparison .
But you’re not annealing, right?
Alter ego or your other brother Daryl ?
No one is using only 850°F of heat.NO restoring Ductility ,Can't truly anneal as Brass requires TIME at Temperature even at elevated temps ,the atoms within the Metal Don't reform lattice groups or grow grain structure . So the BEST any of us can ever do with cartridge brass is simply soften it ,aka restore ductility .
I got beat down so badly by metallurgist for Boeing and LM for saying I was annealing my brass cases ,then they RE EDUCATED ME of proper terminology . Reluctantly a couple would allow the Term " PARTIAL ANNEALING " , then arguments would break out .
So George settled it once and for all , there was ZERO proof ANY lattice or micro grain had occurred on several samples I provided . George even went so far as to publish results ,concluding at 850 Deg. F required 30 Minutes before Grain began changing .
So Ductility is is for ME ,as I've said You all call it what you want but reforming lattice or grown grain structure YOU AIN'T GETTING !.
Is this Haney’s dad?
Still stalking me , eh ? Dusty messed you up bad .It's his other mom.
He was smart enough to stay far far away from you, so he couldn’t get aids!Must have hurt you bad when your daddy died of AIDS ?
That's another way to put it.Guys, from my own experience, I can only add that heat treatment of rifle cartridges is needed only so that the cartridge case can be formed in a matrix with good repeatability of geometry.
It’s just that a lot of people get hung up on the heat treatment of gun casings. What is the temperature, what is the best way to do the heat treatment, they buy a lot of expensive equipment and so on.That's another way to put it.![]()