Buffer and Spring Recommendations For .308 AR

Cold_Bore_88

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 13, 2013
675
128
The Woodlands, TX
I am getting a lot of felt recoil in my 20" .308 AR. Gas block is non adjustable. It's a .875" barrel contour so adjustable has a hard time fitting. May look at the new JP though.

Realized I have an ar-15 buffer and spring in it.

Which brand/option should I replace with?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Any 308 spring is longer and going to slow the bcg more. Some polished springs like the JP ones are slightly quieter. I don't have any experience but I've been thinking about trying a silent capture if you want to go all out.

A lot lot of people carry .875 adjustable gas blocks. I recommend SLR rifleworks. However, the best way to reduce recoil is with a muzzle break.

 
Any 308 spring is longer and going to slow the bcg more. Some polished springs like the JP ones are slightly quieter. I don't have any experience but I've been thinking about trying a silent capture if you want to go all out.

A lot lot of people carry .875 adjustable gas blocks. I recommend SLR rifleworks. However, the best way to reduce recoil is with a muzzle break.

True. A lot of people carry adjustable gas blocks. But few will fit under a SLR rail.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I run a Heavy buffer in my .308 as well as the JP hollow ground spring. That is 20% more resistance in recoil, same closing force. The buffer and spring and heavy buffer helps a good bit, but .308s really benefit from adjustable gas. My DD5V1 runs 140 grain bullets at 2400 fps out of the box, locks open on last shot with the heavy spring and buffer. The Superlative Arms blocks are excellent and the only ones I use and recommend. A well tuned .308 is a whole other level. Bite the bullet and do what you need to in order to get an adjustable block on her.

https://suparms.com/collections/adj...djustable-gas-block-bleed-off-solid-melonited
 
I run a Heavy buffer in my .308 as well as the JP hollow ground spring. That is 20% more resistance in recoil, same closing force. The buffer and spring and heavy buffer helps a good bit, but .308s really benefit from adjustable gas. My DD5V1 runs 140 grain bullets at 2400 fps out of the box, locks open on last shot with the heavy spring and buffer. The Superlative Arms blocks are excellent and the only ones I use and recommend. A well tuned .308 is a whole other level. Bite the bullet and do what you need to in order to get an adjustable block on her.

[video]https://suparms.com/collections/adjustable-gas-blocks-direct-impingement/products/copy-of-875-adjustable-gas-block-bleed-off-solid-melonited[/video]

The issue is with my rail. It is too long. The gas block has to be ultra low. The SLR didn't fit and the SA is taller than that.

I think JP maybe my only option now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
H3 buffer and a Tubbs spring= buttah Add an adjustable gas block= parkay

What he said! I have an 15" Fortis switch rail that is one of the slimmest I've used and have no issues with my seekins adj block. If you don't like the twang from the spring when cyclcling just grease the shit out of it with some white lithium and you'll never hear it again.
 
Last edited:
True. A lot of people carry adjustable gas blocks. But few will fit under a SLR rail.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SLR's adjustable gas blocks fit under SLR's handguards..... Getting yourself an SLR Sentry 8 and a JP spring and rifle length buffer. Will feel like an entirely new gun once you tune the gas to just lock back on last round. Which handguard do you have?
 
My DD5V1 runs 140 grain bullets at 2400 fps out of the box, locks open on last shot with the heavy spring and buffer. The Superlative Arms blocks are excellent and the only ones I use and recommend.

I have a DD5V1 that I have sent back to DD once already because it ejects straight forward and stovepipes when shooting suppressed. It is better now, it doesn't stovepipe and ejects at 1 o'clock, but I still want to slow it down a little. I just put in a Springco orange spring and now I am looking at buffers. What buffer and spring combo are you using Mark and did you change the gas block out?

 
I didn't see what stock length you are running...

Soooo.. on my "Rifle Length" Magpul PRS stocked , 18" middie , "AR10" I am running a KAK 9.3oz .308 Rifle length buffer with a Tubbs .308 Flatwire spring.

I have an SLR adjust. installed as well.... very much softer shooting and stays on target far better while at the bench.

Also... are you running any form of muzzle brake ?
 
I noticed here and in the build picture thread everyone mentions SLR adjustable gas blocks. Why are they so highly regarded? I have an bare Aero .308 upper and lower receiver I'm going to start a build on. I want to build a 6.5 to go with my .308 for my long range hog hunting. My experience with my DD5V1 suppressed hasn't been the best, so wanting to build one as GhostFace put it that is "parkay".
 
I noticed here and in the build picture thread everyone mentions SLR adjustable gas blocks. Why are they so highly regarded? I have an bare Aero .308 upper and lower receiver I'm going to start a build on. I want to build a 6.5 to go with my .308 for my long range hog hunting. My experience with my DD5V1 suppressed hasn't been the best, so wanting to build one as GhostFace put it that is "parkay".

I based my decision to use a SLR on the many good reviews on the internet... just bought my 4th one... it just works like you'd want an adjustable gas block to do. It is a well thought out design.
 
If you get you get Armalite buffer tube you run AR-15 buffers. Use a Tubbs AR-10 spring and you can adjust spring if necessary. Only thing is the carbine stock wont go to the nut because the tube is 3/4" longer.

I run an X-caliber 18" rifle length barrel, SLR 7 series agb(wide open), V7 titanium BCG, and Armalite buffer tube with AR-15 carbine buffer and Tubbs flat wire spring.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Renegade_Red
I am running the CAR-10 6.5 ounce buffer, JP flatwire spring. That helped a lot, but I also added a Superlative Arms adjustable gas block.

Adjustable keys and tubes work, but not as well as keeping the gas in the barrel (or really close). The adjustable keys and tubes tend to foul faster and put more crud into the action.
 
Adjustable keys and tubes work, but not as well as keeping the gas in the barrel (or really close). The adjustable keys and tubes tend to foul faster and put more crud into the action.

This I tried a adjustable gas key.... no thanks ... frankly it was a PITA to adjust... and I lost the "second" lock screw promptly while at the range... arrgh.
 
I noticed here and in the build picture thread everyone mentions SLR adjustable gas blocks. Why are they so highly regarded? I have an bare Aero .308 upper and lower receiver I'm going to start a build on. I want to build a 6.5 to go with my .308 for my long range hog hunting. My experience with my DD5V1 suppressed hasn't been the best, so wanting to build one as GhostFace put it that is "parkay".

Almost every rifle I have built used a SLR adjustable gas block. The quality is outstanding as is the design.

One thing I would through out for consideration is to look at the JP adjustable gas block with the side adjustment. On most gas blocks the adjustment screw is on the front of the block. On the newest generation of adjustable block from JP the screw is on the side of the block, making it easier to access.
 
Almost every rifle I have built used a SLR adjustable gas block. The quality is outstanding as is the design.

One thing I would through out for consideration is to look at the JP adjustable gas block with the side adjustment. On most gas blocks the adjustment screw is on the front of the block. On the newest generation of adjustable block from JP the screw is on the side of the block, making it easier to access.

Just make sure your FF handguard doesn't block the adjustment point !!