Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

TexasClassIII

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Feb 2, 2011
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Dallas, TX
I have a max distance of 375 yards from target (and big dirt backstop) to the tower. Ground is level for about 300 yards starting at the base of the tower, then drops 3-5 yards or so over the last 75 yards before it hits the backstop. See attached diagram.

I was thinking of the building a 2 level wood tower. I am unsure whether to go 4 ft and 8 ft for the levels, or possibly do a 6ft and 12 ft style. Each layer would be 8x8 feet in size. Regardless I'm going to try to do the wooden stairs on the side of the tower instead of 'behind' it. I'm also going to see if I can work out a stair design with a 'landing' on the lower level that then cris-crosses back to the upper level...otherwise the stairs are going to have an insane pitch.

I have attached two pictures. One is of my general layout drawn in paint and one is of the style platform I'll be emulating.

Assumptions:
-building out of high grade treated lumber, 4" posts for the corners will be set in 4 feet of concrete, etc.
-a mobile platform is out of the question. The M-STOMP is incredible and awesome but just not what I need at this time

Questions:
1. Should the levels be at 4 feet and 8 feet, or 6 and 12?
2. Is 8x8' a good size for the levels?
3. I assume from the pictures of other peoples' platforms that you want flat platforms with no rails or anything on the sides. Anyone else think differently or have suggestions?

***I'd love to hear any and all suggestions before this thing gets built.

Thanks guys. I'm hoping to get this built next week if it isn't too muddy.

DISCLAIMER: The picture below is NOT mine. It was found at http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2615325. I merely hope to use it as a loose basis for my design.
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Parker
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

Well, a couple of weeks later, I'm almost done. Disclaimer: while I did design it, I didn't build it. Had the work done by our handyman.

350 yards from tower to target. Currently have 8x8' of board for paper targets, an IPSC steel torso, a dueling tree, and a 10" steel circle.

The tower is 12 ft off the ground with posts 4 ft in concrete. Railings are not up yet but I'll be adding railings to the 2nd level of the stairs and to the 3 non-shooting sides of the tower. I believe it's 8x12 feet up top.

It's stable, but you do notice wobble when you are looking through your scope if someone else is moving on the platform. I'm planning on adding some steel cables to attach it to the ground and try to minimize the minor wobble.

I put a small 1" strip around the entire tower as you'll see. It prevents stuff from rolling off (bullets, rangefinders, entire guns...) and is great to load the bipod against without worry of pushing the entire rig over the edge.

Overall extremely happy. If anyone is thinking about doing a tower I HIGHLY recommend it. It's a hell of a lot better than shooting on the ground!
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Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

hi

you made a great job!
i made a tower myself but smaller,only 1.5 m high.
but i prefer shooting on the ground than on the tower but can shoot 300 meters further when i'm on it.
i see you own a DTA,i order on in 300 wm i will use for hunting and steel target ,what do you think of this rifle?all the feed back are welcome as i order one without having see it..

Thank you
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

DTA has been a great rifle. The repeatability of POI shift when you change from say 308, to 338, and then back to 308 is amazing.

I primarily shoot it in 308 and love it. Very crisp/adjustable trigger, super-compact design.

Only negative is in 308 if I don't load from the mag I have to throw rounds up into the throat of the barrel. If you try to single load the rounds the bolt will move about halfway forward and then gets jammed against the round--IE the round doesn't go up the feed ramp correctly. Not a big deal. I don't use mags about 99% of the time, and still don't find it to be very bothersome.

You'll love the gun.

Parker
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

Thank you for your answer Parker!
i just need to be a little more patient before i receive my rifle..
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

That looks good.
I tried the cables / turnbuckles on a 20' / telephone pole deck I built with a buddy of mine several years ago. It worked, but I think you'd be better served to do a little cross-bracing with lumber.
CW
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

cwshooter,
I think I may just do both. Looking through a 24 power scope and having any wiggle in the platform whatsoever is just obnoxious. You feel like yelling at your observer 'STOP MOVING!!' constantly, even if they are just breathing heavy.

Parker
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

If I were building it, I'd add railings and employ corner braces. 1/2" thick plywood right triangles, 16" on a side should do it. This is important for resisting wind loads as well as damping vibrations, etc. The cross bracing catches more wind and can obstruct view, etc.

I'd also consider a roof with some pitch and some overhang, maybe even a little lightning protection, too. Beats being soaked, sunburnt, and/or electrified.

Greg
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

Greg:
Railings are being put on this week.

Which corners are you thinking would benefit from plywood corner bracing, exactly? I'm a little confused. The corners at about the 6' high mark where the first round of horizontal bracing is?

Parker
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

I would consider any 90 degree intersection to be a potential location for a brace (gusset). Think in terms of gusseting in all three planes; fore-aft, side-side, up-down. Think in terms of the frame only, without the decking/planking. The regidity should come from the frame.

The problem is, they are easiest to install when doing the actual framing, when they can be sandwiched between the joints.

Post framing, butt the first edge against the vertical, and screw the other edge against the joist. Then scab a block onto the vertical and screw the first edge against the block.

Also, if it's worth screwing, it's worth gluing too. My preferred wood glue is Gorilla Glue.

Post framing, it's probably far easier to do diagonal bracing; but that is not as rigid as gusseting.

Greg
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

Really want to make one someday when I have a more permanent place to shoot. The lumber doesnt look like pressure treated wood. are you sealing it at all?
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I were building it, I'd add railings and employ corner braces. 1/2" thick plywood right triangles, 16" on a side should do it. This is important for resisting wind loads as well as damping vibrations, etc. The cross bracing catches more wind and can obstruct view, etc.

I'd also consider a roof with some pitch and some overhang, maybe even a little lightning protection, too. Beats being soaked, sunburnt, and/or electrified.

Greg </div></div>


I agree 100% on all of this!
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

I have but one suggestion and it may seem off the wall to some depending upon the location. You may wish to angle the top shooting platform just a small bit so that rain does not puddle on the wood. You may also wish to use marine grade plywood for the upper deck. If you region is prone to inclement weather, you may find that the plywood will warp over time. Of course, if it is covered, then this suggestion is moot. But, since you've mentioned mud, perhaps you are in a place that gets some rain.
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

I agree with adding ome small slope/pitch, and prefer the slope to be slightly lower in front, rather than in back. This allows that small bit less rear bag height.

Greg
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

Yes we are sealing it right now.

I thought about the slope idea but ended up not doing it. I don't find it a hindrance at all.

We used 2x6 on the top level IIRC. So the rain will drain between the pieces of wood.

So far the most important thing seems to be the small .75 high by 1" wide strip around the tower. Really nice to not have to worry about things slide off, and to be able to load your bipod against it without having to worry about your entire rig going over the side.

Parker
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GE-Minigun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">please excuse the stupid question as this is all new to me...why a shooting tower? </div></div>

The better question is, Why not? Shooting towers become useful for longer range shots, where if you were on the ground would not be possible due to hills, corn fields, bushes, other objects which may obstruct view of longer range targets.

Also, It's just more fun.
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SIG700</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.....due to hills, corn fields, bushes, other objects which may obstruct view of longer range targets.....</div></div>

This much I understand...thought there might be another reason I was missing.
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

Now just add an awning to subtract 20 degrees in Texas Summer and save your skin! (Very nice job Outlaw!).
BTW, the American Academy of Dermatology has program that provides shade (helps finance awnings etc.) to service the public - typically goes to underprivileged school grounds but if anyone has public ranges esp. that the NRA or 4H use for kids to nominate, send me a pm. I'd love to get more ranges to appreciate the importance of sun-protection while we enjoy our sport.
 
Re: Building a shooting tower. Need some feedback

I think you did a great job!

I'd love to have the space to have something like that. I'd look at some burlap or temporary material you can keep on hand to hang on the sides of the first level for shade in the summer.