I have a MRAD brake and there's a lot of carbon build up in it. I was thinking about throwing it in my stainless tumbler, but I'm worried about it stripping the finish off. Has anyone done something like this before?
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Gunsmithing Caked carbon on muzzle brake.
- Thread starter D_Lamz
- Start date
Bob Dunlap of AGI recommends using Simple Green for deep cleaning of gun parts----he does this when totally dis-assembling and cleaning all guns. You spray it on, let it sit, work it over with a little tooth brush, rinse in warm water, repeat if really bad, and then dry in warm oven----not hot, about 200 degrees to thoroughly dry. This cleans all dirt and contaminants, soot, oil, grease, etc from the gun---don't think it does copper though.
Stainless tumbler would likely do something to the finish if it's painted. I would get a CLP or carbon foul remover a try first with a decent nylon brush.
I think that performance is mandatory, appearance can be optional.
The brake needs to be cleaned, in a very effective manner.
When I say appearance can be optional, I mean that if it strips off, it could be renewed; maybe even as simply as applying a touch-up spray with flat black rattlecan paint intended for backyard grills. It stands up to heat, and the occasional touch-up is probably considered part of its design.
Speaking of design, it should be a no-brainer that brakes are going to accumulate Carbon. Cleaning should be a design factor, and tools, maybe something like the carbon removal B.O.N.E. tool for removing carbon form AR Bolts and carriers, and an assembly/disassembly wrench, should be included accessories.
Back when I was 'camouflaging' my rifles with rattlecan paint, black grill paint was my preferred coating far barrels and any other heat-producing parts. I soon came to realize that any non-metallic (i.e., chrome, etc.) coating was ephemeral at best; and left the coating process, while still less durable than chrome, to professionals.
The only 'decorated' rifle I own wears silver K.G. Gunkote, applied by Darkeagle. If you haven't tried Dan's work, you're missing quite a bit.
Just a wild thought; I wonder if anybody's galvanizing gun barrels. Could such a zinc coating be made to come out darker gray, or green, or tan? Apparently, maybe. 'Color galvanizing' research. 'Black Chrome Plating' research.
Greg
The brake needs to be cleaned, in a very effective manner.
When I say appearance can be optional, I mean that if it strips off, it could be renewed; maybe even as simply as applying a touch-up spray with flat black rattlecan paint intended for backyard grills. It stands up to heat, and the occasional touch-up is probably considered part of its design.
Speaking of design, it should be a no-brainer that brakes are going to accumulate Carbon. Cleaning should be a design factor, and tools, maybe something like the carbon removal B.O.N.E. tool for removing carbon form AR Bolts and carriers, and an assembly/disassembly wrench, should be included accessories.
Back when I was 'camouflaging' my rifles with rattlecan paint, black grill paint was my preferred coating far barrels and any other heat-producing parts. I soon came to realize that any non-metallic (i.e., chrome, etc.) coating was ephemeral at best; and left the coating process, while still less durable than chrome, to professionals.
The only 'decorated' rifle I own wears silver K.G. Gunkote, applied by Darkeagle. If you haven't tried Dan's work, you're missing quite a bit.
Just a wild thought; I wonder if anybody's galvanizing gun barrels. Could such a zinc coating be made to come out darker gray, or green, or tan? Apparently, maybe. 'Color galvanizing' research. 'Black Chrome Plating' research.
Greg
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I tried some FIREClean and I gotta say I'm not impressed at all with its cleaning abilities. I let it set on some carbon that was built up on the crown of a suppressed rifle for a full day and it didn't even phase it. Even after I got it down to just a few small flakes it still did nothing. I have applied some to a clean muzzle now so I guess we'll see how good it protects and how much easier it will be to clean the next go around.
+1 for fireclean. Since the carbon is already caked on you might need to apply a little elbow grease along with the Fireclean. After you get it clean with the Fireclean, the next time you wil be able to wipe off most of the big stuff with a rag/q-tip.
I guess I'm still not totally sold on the FIREClean yet. Today before I went out I put some on the crown area of my .243 and then put my 30P-1 on and went out and shot 50 rounds. Took the can off and the carbon was still basically welded on there. I don't know if this is outside of their claims but seems like everybody says it works wherever they are applying it including suppressor threads and blast baffle areas. First time out I'm not impressed. I'll give it a few go arounds but I'm thinking this stuff if a little over advertised but I'm willing to give it an honest try.
Nope. Cleaned everything off with FIREClean and did so several times as to make sure it was the only thing that was still on there. I let it set for two days after I got all the carbon off the first time with a decent amount just soaking on it essentially to try to get a few small specs off which it failed to do without me scrubbing like normal which ok, not a big deal as it wasn't treated with it before. Still a little disappointed as it claims to "melt" carbon which it didn't even come remotely close to doing. Anyway I got it all cleaned off and smeared a little on the crown area and let it set for another day and then reapplied some yesterday before I went out thinking it should have a decent layer built up by now. Shot 50 rounds and the result was what I explained earlier. I am going to keep using it and see if the results get any better but like I said before, this may be out of the operating window of the product and and I very well could just be pissing in the wind.
FireClean isn't a harsh solvent like some of the typical chemicals used to remove carbon by eating it off, like brake cleaner, etc. FireClean works like a teflon coating (my analogy), once you have a base of it on the item, the carbon usually wipes off fairly easy. Thats not to say you might need to scrape a bit in a nook or cranny but the majority of the clean up should be quick and easy.FireClean won't stop carbon from building up on/in a weapon (nothing will) but it does prevent it from caking on so hard that you need to scrub and scrape with dental instruments for hours to get the carbon off of the part. I don't know why your results are the way they are but I've seen it work on MP5 SD's that have been used hard at the school house and the results were remarkable to say the least. It sounds like you have one area on your weapon that is a problem spot, but how is it working on the rest of the weapon at keeping carbon easy to clean off?
Well like I said before, keeping carbon from building up or basically welding itself to the muzzle crown area may very well be beyond its capabilities. I wouldn't be surprised if it was as that is a tough area to keep clean and to be honest I had my doubts that it would do this but an overwhelming amount of people preached its miracle like qualities. I specifically asked theses people if it would work on the muzzle crown area on a suppressed weapon. The answer was all the same but I don't think one of them understood what I was asking them.
As to the other areas of the gun I used it, I put some on the bolt and lugs and it does have a decent lubricity to it so we'll see if it out performs any other lube I've used.
Varmint Slayer, I do not know what to tell you as I have used FC on MP-5SD's and it made it 100 times easier to clean, so I know it works well on full auto suppressed weapons so it should be able to handle semi auto and bolt guns. Like anything, there is always an exception or an odd one out. Your experience really does baffle me. Can you post some pictures of the areas affected that are not coming clean?
I believe you PZ3. What areas on the MP5-SD are you using FC? Is it just on the bolt areas? If that is the case then I would believe that it would make the carbon easier to clean off as I don't believe the bolt area on a semi auto sees near the heat that a muzzle crown area poked into a suppressor sees. I'll get you some pics of what 50 rounds did to the crown area with the FC on it when I get home.
Here is a video of how it should come off. In my experience, some tight areas might need a bit of elbow grease or a small piece of brillo pad to initially break the caked on carbon but after you dislodge a piece of it the remainder usually falls off or comes of very easily.
Yeah the one major difference between that scenario and mine is the heat of the area. Muzzle poked inside of a suppressor is a world different from the bolt area of a semi auto weapon. Granted the gas system on a gas gun can be pretty hot at times, I don't think it is a where near the punishment that the blast baffle/muzzle area of a suppressed weapon takes on. I'm guessing that is why I am seeing such failure in my application as I'm not real sure anything can stand up to that kind if punishment for very long.
Did you try Simple Green---soaking and then brushing with nylon brush? It can't hurt to try, as nothing else seems to have worked yet. It is cheap, in Walmart in the automotive section, and can be used for many other gun/reloading related things if it doesn't help you here...
How often are you guys cleaning out your brakes? Are there some designs that foul faster?
I have almost 1k rounds on a JP brake that isn't showing much in the way of fouling. Are there powders that foul heavier?
I have almost 1k rounds on a JP brake that isn't showing much in the way of fouling. Are there powders that foul heavier?
Here ya go PZ3.
That 50 rounds and what's left is going to have to be scraped off.
I see what your saying now. Given the location, inside the can by the baffle, that portion is always going to have carbon build up no matter what product you use. What I am curious to know is it easier to clean the carbon off after the fireclean was applied than it was before you used fireclean or is there no difference?
No not really or at least not enough of a difference to notice it. Like I said this area is probably outside the limits of the product. I knew it was to good to be true (on the crown area that is).
Serious as a heart. . .
Learned it from old timers for RC airplane engine rebiulds. Takes all the varnished nitro/castor oil right off!
Learned it from old timers for RC airplane engine rebiulds. Takes all the varnished nitro/castor oil right off!
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