Car Batteries -- Looking for some Hider info!

[sirhrmechanic]

Ok Hiders... could use some insight/experience or feedback on car batteries. Not EV or Hybrid or that crap. Just regular car batteries in your daily drivers or collector cars.

So here is the background... typically I have always seen it as no problem to get 5 years out of a battery. Sometimes 6 - 7 if it's treated well. That's been experience since I started to drive in the early '80's. Lots of cars, tractors, etc. in that time. And many, many more on the cars I wrench on for clients.

But in the last 3 - 4 years, batteries have been dying well short of 5 years (60 months). Including in collector type cars and even my daily driver plow truck (18 Ram 3500 Cummins.) Life seems to be between 36 and 45 months and the batteries are... dead. Won't hold charge. Need replacement. In-car testing (it's dead Jim) and multimeter testing shows they won't take a charge. Well short of 'warranty.'

BTW, we always use 'tier one' batteries. Exide. Interstate. Napa (yes, they are/were good.) And Optima for folks who want a gel-cell. For cars in Cold Climates, we sometimes use Deep Cycle because they go months without driving. So no WalMart or shit-brand batteries.

So what say you guys? Has anyone noticed the same thing? Short battery life? Failure well short of 'warranty' date?

Here are some thoughts I have.

A. My use on vintage (prewar) collector type cars may be outside the 'normal' use of a battery that might be designed for alternators and computer-controlled voltage regulation... not old Dynamos, cutouts and mechanical regulators. This does not explain why my 'modern' vehicle batteries don't last long, though.

B. Batteries are not designed for being driven once a week or 'occasionally' and even when fitted with disconnect or put on trickle chargers are getting 'damaged' by this kind of usage vs. daily drivers and constant charge.

C. Batteries now are shit and don't make the lifetimes no matter what is printed on them. This is influenced by D... below:

D. Battery makers have realized that most cars aren't kept for more than 36 months and 'warranty' period... so they are designed to make it little or no longer than that. Yes, they have 60 months on the labels, but somewhere at the Battery Companies, actuaries or beancounters or accountants have realized that noone 'returns' a battery for warranty any more. And just tells dealer to 'fit a new one.' So they can offer a 60 month warranty, but sell a 36 month battery... and if 1 in 100 tries to collect on the warranty, the companies can pay out and still know that 99 others won't collect. A bargain for them!

E. I am totally wrong on this and my empirical observations are totally off and I am just being cynical and can't read the punches on batteries that... I often fitted four or five years ago.

So interested in your input? This place has more 'connected' folks and "Sniper-level Observers" than any place on the Interwebs. Observations are what I am interested in. Since there are probably not many Battery Diarists among you foot fettishists....

Thanks for any thoughts!

Sirhr

 

[BCP]

My theory is that newer cars have a ton of electronics that are "always on".

 

[Sean the Nailer]

Do yourself a favour and check out "Pulse-Tech". They advertise '3x' the life of the battery, whereas mine (and others I know) have gotten up to 5x battery life.

No, I don't work for the company, I have just found something that truly works. And has for decades. I first started using it/them back in '96. YMMV.

 

[Silverjay]

The dealership has replaced the battery in my truck 3 times in as many years. They tell me that the batteries they are getting are much lower quality than previously. Last time I told them I was going to get an Exide and be do e with it. They said they had seen the same drop in quality with all the brands.

 

[DIBBS]

There are, I believe, 3 primary car battery manufacturers in the USA.

Any more, I figure if you get 3+ years out of a battery you are doing well.

They just don't make things to last .... it's not in their financial interest.

Also...

https://www.cartechbooks.com/blogs/techtips/battery

 

[Arc Light]

I used to have very good luck with Walmart EverStart batteries. In fact their's one in my Jeep from 2016 that's still going strong. But I've had two in my Tundra fail within the last 18 months. And it's not the truck, it's the battery. Both failed to hold a charge. What sold me on them was that they have a 3 year warranty exchange good at any Walmart. But it's too much of a pain in the ass to worry about my battery going bad every 6-12 months. Based on the online reviews I've seen, I'm not alone. I just replaced it with a Costco battery made by Interstate that also has a 3 year exchange warranty. We'll see how it goes. But I agree, the quality of batteries has taken a dive in the last few years.

 

[B y r o n]

Driving a car or truck daily does not mean that the battery is being charged enough by the alternator, it needs to be driven for a required time frame based on a few variables. Cars/trucks/motorcycles etc. that aren't driven on a regular basis need to be connected to a GOOD battery maintainer. It does require a little extra time to connect or disconnect but they do save money in the long run. I'm still running batteries that are over 10 years old. Even lead acid batteries can be maintained provided they are caught before going over the point of no return. It's simply chemistry.

 

[camocorvette]

Trickle charger on everything. I've got a battery in my daily from 2015. It was in my race car for 5-6 years and then swapped. It sat on a trickle charger for about 5 of those years. All the tractors get one, if it's a battery I put a trickle charger on it when not daily driven.

Maybe I've just had good luck...

Edit my math is off.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

You are experiencing the "Engineered Lifetime" of a product. The only difference in a 3 year battery and a 5 year battery is the "Warranty"... Tthe difference in the cost of the two batteries is the warranty (cost to replace). Suppliers are simply rolling the dice in the big battery casino. Where are most vehicles in 3 years ?... The dead battery, at that point, becomes the problem of the new owner.

Are you noticing that a replacement battery weighs less than the OEM battery ?

We are living in a changing world.

 

[Bryan W M]

Mower battery 6 months warranty. $160 installed I’ve been doing this less than 3 years I’m replacing batteries I’ve put it . We warranty a few. I’ve changed a few batteries over 5 years old . I did one over 10 .
Heat and freezing are hard on them.

 

[HeavyAssault]

Battery Tender has a solution to your problem.

 

[Jrb572]

Plane and simple. They do not make them like the use to. . I’ve worked for several dealerships and body shops being a parts manager. They just do not make them like they use to. To me your best to buy the cheaper one and just be ready to replace it in 2-3 years.

 

[Jareth Cutestory]

engineered to a cost.


sirh you seem to know enough to make your own informed decisions on the matter.

 

[n2ishun]

Next time you buy one, do not go by "cranking amps".
That means dick, it's a fake number to sell batteries.
Go by AH (or amp hours) and if it isn't posted clear as day on a battery....that is one you don't want anyway.
My standard is nothing less than 100AH in any vehicle battery I buy.
Sure it cuts down the selection....but you end up with a badass battery that doesn't fail early.

 

[LonewolfMcQuade]

I rebuild starters, alternators & generators the past 30 years.
Definitely a lot more electronics on the modern cars, trucks,,tractors and heavy equipment. Batteries are getting more of a workout! The fella who trained me used to make batteries back in the day.
Quality isn't what it used to be. Companies & qc can be meh. Generally, the heavier the battery, the better. More lead. But I see even the better batteries suffer from poor qc, having cracked lead plates etc.

I quit stocking & selling batteries a few years ago.

 

[Bacarrat]

My theory is that newer cars have a ton of electronics that are "always on".

After a set time, the vehicles BCM will shut down all electronics on the car. You can see this with a multimeter hooked up. There is a set spec on how much they pull before and after. I think GM and Ford it's like 7 milliamps and around 100 when the vehicle is freshly shut off. Been a couple of years since I have worked on cars but it should be in ball park.

To me a batteries are just a crapshoot when they go out. I have seen brand new cars on the lot with dead batteries and then again I have seen 8-10 year old vehicles with the original batteries. Typically if the battery is out of the elements the longer it will last. My daily beater use to go through batteries every 2-3 years, but this current battery is on it 5th or 6th year? It really doesn't matter how expensive the battery is. It's not going to last any longer then a cheaper battery, it might have a better warranty though. I know, I approve probably around 8-10 battery replacements a day at work.

 

[The D]

I’ve had to put batteries in 2 of our cars in the last few(4 maybe) years and always put an agm battery in the original’s place. Doesn’t really matter which manufacturer to me, the upgrade to agm is enough for these cars. Might be worth looking at.

This should be obvious, and I’m not accusing anyone of doing this, but always replace with at least factory equivalent. And try to keep the aftermarket electronics to a minimum.

Funny story:

The independent shop I used to work at had a mid-00’s E-class get towed in. It didn’t take long to diagnose that the $75 Auto Zone special battery couldn’t keep up with the car’s demands and wrote the estimate. He lost his shit when he got the estimate to replace his brand new battery with the proper battery for the car. It was kind of fun explaining to him that he can’t be a cheap fuck and own a Mercedes

 

[The D]

Also, an amusing story and question all wrapped up in one. Has anyone ever replaced the battery in a Mercedes G-class? I love the Gelandewagen but fuck that noise. It’s inside it’s own little compartment built into the body behind the center console.

 

[Maggot]

I used to have very good luck with Walmart EverStart batteries. In fact their's one in my Jeep from 2016 that's still going strong. But I've had two in my Tundra fail within the last 18 months. And it's not the truck, it's the battery. Both failed to hold a charge. What sold me on them was that they have a 3 year warranty exchange good at any Walmart. But it's too much of a pain in the ass to worry about my battery going bad every 6-12 months. Based on the online reviews I've seen, I'm not alone. I just replaced it with a Costco battery made by Interstate that also has a 3 year exchange warranty. We'll see how it goes. But I agree, the quality of batteries has taken a dive in the last few years.

I like the Wally 3 year replacement warranty. I have one in my 2002 Chevy 3500 Express van thats been there for 3 years and so far no problems. The nice thing about Wally's is they are everywhere...I just forgot to check and see if theyre made ''''you know where'''' everything else seems to be.

 

[Maggot]

Also, an amusing story and question all wrapped up in one. Has anyone ever replaced the battery in a Mercedes G-class? I love the Gelandewagen but fuck that noise. It’s inside it’s own little compartment built into the body behind the center console.

Try the diesels, they have two batteries. Tell your wallet to bend over and self grease.

 

[Maggot]

Funny story:

The independent shop I used to work at had a mid-00’s E-class get towed in. It didn’t take long to diagnose that the $75 Auto Zone special battery couldn’t keep up with the car’s demands and wrote the estimate. He lost his shit when he got the estimate to replace his brand new battery with the proper battery for the car. It was kind of fun explaining to him that he can’t be a cheap fuck and own a Mercedes

That was my problem.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Also, an amusing story and question all wrapped up in one. Has anyone ever replaced the battery in a Mercedes G-class? I love the Gelandewagen but fuck that noise. It’s inside it’s own little compartment built into the body behind the center console.

Doesn't it have two batteries? The starting battery and the one for its 'constant load' and Emissions systems? I think those are hidden... in the seats???

Yeah, German modern cars now have so many electronics that the batteries are barely able to keep up.

Interesting responses folks. Thank you! You are more of less confirming what my gut said.

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[Arc Light]

Whatever you decide, skip Optima batteries. At one point they were excellent quality, US made, and would last 10 years with minimal care. Then they got bought out and production was moved to Mexico. Quality sucks now and they fail in 2-3 years. Not cool for a $300+ battery.

 

[The D]

Doesn't it have two batteries? The starting battery and the one for its 'constant load' and Emissions systems? I think those are hidden... in the seats???

Yeah, German modern cars now have so many electronics that the batteries are barely able to keep up.

Interesting responses folks. Thank you! You are more of less confirming what my gut said.

Cheers,

Sirhr

The newer ones might. The one I replaced went in an ‘05, I think

 

[candyx]

Interstate batteries have been working well, try unplugging the auto suck when you park the car.

 

[eflyguy]

Interstate, from Costco.

 

[candyx]

Interstate, from Costco.

No , I get them through a commercial dealer.

 

[E. Bryant]

Also, an amusing story and question all wrapped up in one. Has anyone ever replaced the battery in a Mercedes G-class? I love the Gelandewagen but fuck that noise. It’s inside it’s own little compartment built into the body behind the center console.

My diesel Ford E350 had dual batteries, and there's no room under the hood for one much less two, so they get hung off the passenger side frame rail. It takes me about 1.5-2 hrs to R&R them; maybe longer if something's rusted (and it always is).

 

[Bradu]

I use Motorcraft on anything I work on outside of work because I've had the best luck with them. The comment above about all the electronics is definitely part of the problem. You can search online and see a lot of posts about some modules not going to sleep every time like they are suppose to causing intermittent no starts. We have trackers in our equipment and trucks at work and they are responsible for batteries barely making it 12 months. The oldest battery I have run into is 18 months with one exception on a truck we bought last year. The batteries were 5 years old which is unheard of in our fleet.

 

[Downzero]

Whatever you decide, skip Optima batteries. At one point they were excellent quality, US made, and would last 10 years with minimal care. Then they got bought out and production was moved to Mexico. Quality sucks now and they fail in 2-3 years. Not cool for a $300+ battery.

Optima batteries have, as far as I know, and at least for the last 20 years, been owned and made by Johnson Controls, the same company that makes Diehard, Interstate, Duralast, and probably 1/2 or more of the Walmart batteries. They were not "bought out" by anyone--JCI is one of the world's largest producer of car batteries and has been forever.

there are three manufacturers of car batteries, JCI, East Penn, and Exide. I've had the best luck with JCI batteries, I think, but the key is to not kill them and keep water in them and they last a LONG time.

 

[mheimer_45]

Motorcraft has the best warranty I’ve seen lately. My last interstate mpt65 was 8 years old when I replaced it.

 

[Arc Light]

Optima batteries have, as far as I know, and at least for the last 20 years, been owned and made by Johnson Controls, the same company that makes Diehard, Interstate, Duralast, and probably 1/2 or more of the Walmart batteries. They were not "bought out" by anyone--JCI is one of the world's largest producer of car batteries and has been forever.

there are three manufacturers of car batteries, JCI, East Penn, and Exide. I've had the best luck with JCI batteries, I think, but the key is to not kill them and keep water in them and they last a LONG time.

History of Optima Batteries​

Optima Batteries have been around since 1972. During this year, John Devitt and Donald McClelland applied for the company’s first patent for a maintenance-free battery. At first, the battery type was only meant for the military and marine sectors.

At the same time, the SPIRALCELL construction was created. In 1975, another patent was filed for this design by Gates Rubber Company. With all of the success, Optima ventured into the truck and automotive sector shortly after. As a country, we welcomed Optima Batteries, the highest-quality AGM battery design, in 1987. By 1990, the company became known as Optimal Batteries Inc.

In 1991, Gates Rubber Company removed itself from the company. The next year, Gylling purchased the company, thereby increasing the popularity of the brand. It was in 1994 that the Denver manufacturing plant was established.

After many years of success, Johnson Controls took over the company in 2000. It became one of the brands under the umbrella of Clairos. While there have been many owners and changeovers across the years, the Optima Battery lineup continues to be well-loved by enthusiasts.


After they were acquired by Johnson Controls they moved production to Mexico, kept prices the same, and quality went to shit. Countless reviews online complaining about them dying in 2-3 years. They are not nearly the quality they were when they were made here in the US.

 

[n2ishun]

Yea, Optima batteries went to shit quite a while ago.
Tip: if you drain the battery down to ...eh...about 7-8 volts, it ain't coming back, expect to buy a new one.
There is a newer breed of chargers out there that are made to desulfate a battery (been awhile, I think that's the right word...perhaps desulfide?).
They are the shit, usually called a smart charger, basically just plug it in, no switches or dials, and a row of lights to say what the things doing, but no way to change it.
Well worth the money, especially for the guys with a farm and/or tractors and zero turn lawnmowers and all that stuff.
They aren't cheap, but they are good.
Something like this...

Cool Tool: A Desulfator Battery Charger/Maintainer That Revives Weak Batteries

If you’re working from home right now, your car’s battery has probably gone belly up at least once.

jalopnik.com

Another trick some might not know, if you put the charger on the battery and it doesn't do shit, turn the headlights on or something until it starts taking the charge, let it go for maybe 5 minutes and then turn the headlights or whatever off.
Believe it or not, putting a little draw on the system will make it charge faster (makes no sense, but it's true).

 

[Threadcutter308]

I used to have very good luck with Walmart EverStart batteries. In fact their's one in my Jeep from 2016 that's still going strong. But I've had two in my Tundra fail within the last 18 months. And it's not the truck, it's the battery. Both failed to hold a charge. What sold me on them was that they have a 3 year warranty exchange good at any Walmart. But it's too much of a pain in the ass to worry about my battery going bad every 6-12 months. Based on the online reviews I've seen, I'm not alone. I just replaced it with a Costco battery made by Interstate that also has a 3 year exchange warranty. We'll see how it goes. But I agree, the quality of batteries has taken a dive in the last few years.

I got royally screwed by wallyworld on an obviously defective battery, within about the first six months of ownership. They said "fuck you" and I said "fuck you" right back. Haven't set foot in a walmart since then and never will again.

between Costco's great program to take care of Customers and Interstate's reputation (may be old/stale news), Costco is where I'll be buying my next batteries. We'll see how it works out.

I have had Sears Marine AGM's in the past with excellent results. But, with the condition that Sears is in, I'm no longer willing to roll the dice on them. I'd almost rather go back to wally world, which ain't happening.

 

[Lightning8]

I am a manufacturing engineer. Walked through a major battery plant once on a tour - assembly line full of batteries getting brand x labels - whistle blew and labels swapped to brand y. There is not much difference (any?) in brand x vs y.

 

[Downzero]

History of Optima Batteries​

Optima Batteries have been around since 1972. During this year, John Devitt and Donald McClelland applied for the company’s first patent for a maintenance-free battery. At first, the battery type was only meant for the military and marine sectors.

At the same time, the SPIRALCELL construction was created. In 1975, another patent was filed for this design by Gates Rubber Company. With all of the success, Optima ventured into the truck and automotive sector shortly after. As a country, we welcomed Optima Batteries, the highest-quality AGM battery design, in 1987. By 1990, the company became known as Optimal Batteries Inc.

In 1991, Gates Rubber Company removed itself from the company. The next year, Gylling purchased the company, thereby increasing the popularity of the brand. It was in 1994 that the Denver manufacturing plant was established.

After many years of success, Johnson Controls took over the company in 2000. It became one of the brands under the umbrella of Clairos. While there have been many owners and changeovers across the years, the Optima Battery lineup continues to be well-loved by enthusiasts.


After they were acquired by Johnson Controls they moved production to Mexico, kept prices the same, and quality went to shit. Countless reviews online complaining about them dying in 2-3 years. They are not nearly the quality they were when they were made here in the US.

FWIW, I've never had good luck with AGM batteries from any brand. I'm not sure how they developed a good reputation, all I can think of is marketing. I prefer conventional lead acid batteries and that's what I run in all of my rigs, including my RV. The only application where I see AGM as an advantage is a motorcycle.

I also think that the vast majority of vehicles are probably running batteries that are physically too small for them. The one in my car is an absolute joke and dies about every 3 years, it was insane for them to ever think that tiny battery would start a 400 hp V8 for long.

 

[Arc Light]

FWIW, I've never had good luck with AGM batteries from any brand. I'm not sure how they developed a good reputation, all I can think of is marketing. I prefer conventional lead acid batteries and that's what I run in all of my rigs, including my RV. The only application where I see AGM as an advantage is a motorcycle.

I also think that the vast majority of vehicles are probably running batteries that physically too small for them. The one in my car is an absolute joke and dies about every 3 years, it was insane for them to ever think that tiny battery would start a 400 hp V8 for long.

Agreed. I considered one, but I'm not convinced they are worth the extra money for normal automotive use. I also learned that AGM batteries like a higher current to fully charge. Many stock alternators, like those in Toyota Tundras, won't fully charge them. And speaking of size, I went from the stock group 24F battery to a larger group 27F. Fit perfectly, has highr capacity, and was actually cheaper.

 

[91Eunozs]

FWIW, I've never had good luck with AGM batteries from any brand. I'm not sure how they developed a good reputation, all I can think of is marketing. I prefer conventional lead acid batteries and that's what I run in all of my rigs, including my RV. The only application where I see AGM as an advantage is a motorcycle.

I also think that the vast majority of vehicles are probably running batteries that physically too small for them. The one in my car is an absolute joke and dies about every 3 years, it was insane for them to ever think that tiny battery would start a 400 hp V8 for long.

I have a lightweight AGM in my sports car, but keep it on a battery tender with an AGM-specific program setting. Keep it hooked up religiously. Works great.

 

[hlee]

Not wrong on battery life in my experience. I don’t think I’ve ever had a battery go 5 years. 3 years seems the norm. My 2014 Silverado is on its 3rd battery, and probably close to end of life.

 

[Bradu]

Not wrong on battery life in my experience. I don’t think I’ve ever had a battery go 5 years. 3 years seems the norm. My 2014 Silverado is on its 3rd battery, and probably close to end of life.

3 years for automotive has been the average lifespan in my experience as well. I've seen some actually make it 8 years and had one in the mustang I had last 6 years, which completely surprised me since I was gone 6-8 months at a time for work. Never had a battery tender or any type of charger hooked to it at any point either.

 

[Downzero]

Not wrong on battery life in my experience. I don’t think I’ve ever had a battery go 5 years. 3 years seems the norm. My 2014 Silverado is on its 3rd battery, and probably close to end of life.

I replaced the original batteries in my 2005 Ram 3500 in May 2018. I bought the truck in March 2005 brand new with 18 miles on it, so I know I was 2 months past the 13 year mark.

Of the other cars in the driveway, the other pickup had its battery replaced because it corroded so badly that it was leaking liquid electrolyte but it'd still start the truck. Age unknown. The other truck still has the battery it had in it in 2016 when I bought it; I scattered the engine in 2021 and the battery is still going with a different engine. My lady's Rav4 I think I replaced the battery about two years ago but no idea how old it was before that, it's an '11 and it was not the original I swapped out. I guess I'm very lucky with batteries, other than my LS car that has a toy battery in it.

 

[kenny1773]

I have had the best luck with walmart batteries, I at least get the 5 years I expect from them

I think part of what is happening with batteries is that no one does maintenance on them anymore, on top of most cars having more electronics. Add people driving lots of short trips on top of it.

How many of you pull the terminals and clean them, then charge the battery with a real charger (not a trickle charger) every say 4-6 months or so? (or more often if the car sits)

Cleaning and charging a battery use to be standard maint, seems no one does it anymore.

I got 8 years out of the original Toyota battery in my Camry. Cleaned the terminals, charged it with a real charger every couple months. I got 10 years out of my original motorcycle battery (and I don't own a trickle charger).

 

[The King]

Also, an amusing story and question all wrapped up in one. Has anyone ever replaced the battery in a Mercedes G-class? I love the Gelandewagen but fuck that noise. It’s inside it’s own little compartment built into the body behind the center console.

May have yes.

 

[The King]

I use oddysee agms at all times.

 

[UpSideDown]

Deka or Odyssey are the batteries to go with.

Optima is trash, I don't know how many I've killed or seen die.

Replace both batteries when you do them in your Cummins. Stay away from Lithium batteries in a starting application, they don't do well with the heat of the engine bay or high amp draws during very cold starts.

 

[Ravenworks]

Dekia/Northstar
Good batteries are not cheap.
A top of the line Group 34 or 78 is going to cost you around $250.
My jobber rate is about $190
I proactively change them out at the 7 year mark and retire them to farm duty while being stuck on a battery tender as well.
I get about 5 more years out of them around the farm.
Not much more you can ask from a well maintained battery.

 

[Sean the Nailer]

Yea, Optima batteries went to shit quite a while ago.
Tip: if you drain the battery down to ...eh...about 7-8 volts, it ain't coming back, expect to buy a new one.
There is a newer breed of chargers out there that are made to desulfate a battery (been awhile, I think that's the right word...perhaps desulfide?).
They are the shit, usually called a smart charger, basically just plug it in, no switches or dials, and a row of lights to say what the things doing, but no way to change it.
Well worth the money, especially for the guys with a farm and/or tractors and zero turn lawnmowers and all that stuff.
They aren't cheap, but they are good.
Something like this...

Cool Tool: A Desulfator Battery Charger/Maintainer That Revives Weak Batteries

If you’re working from home right now, your car’s battery has probably gone belly up at least once.

jalopnik.com

Another trick some might not know, if you put the charger on the battery and it doesn't do shit, turn the headlights on or something until it starts taking the charge, let it go for maybe 5 minutes and then turn the headlights or whatever off.
Believe it or not, putting a little draw on the system will make it charge faster (makes no sense, but it's true).

This is why I suggested the Pulse-Tech.

Trying to lead horses to water.......

 

[chevy_man]

The Deka in my old truck is from 2014. I just started it today after it sat for a month. It has only been started about 5 times in the last year, but I do let it idle and keep charging while I'm using the truck so it generally gets an hour of run time.
It's been drained to 3-4v several times as my wife can't work a light switch. Just hit it with cables and let the truck charge it and it's come back every time.

That truck has a good alternator that came with a Dyno sheet. It puts out about 100-115 amps at idle, and 160 amps at 3000 engine rpm. The truck idling eats up 60A with the computers and dash and fuel pump.



East Penn bought DEKA. They make quality stuff but they still make it to a price point. Batteries plus has some East Penn as their top line, as does Car Quest and O'Reilley's.


AGM batteries suck in the cold. Walk into an auto parts store in Williston when it's -40* and there will be a huge pile of batteries, mostly AGM from Texas trucks.


Keeping anything charged is the key. You can keep a crap battery around for quite awhile taking care of it, but you may still get more life abusing a quality one.


Cat dealerships can get sealed lead acid batteries in most sizes. We have one skid steer running one from 03. I know a lot of guys that use them in their diesel trucks.
But then our mini-ex ate 2 this summer from broken plates. Warranty is nice, but it sucks because they never fail at a convenient time.

 

[Makinchips208]

Why not just drive a 70s pickup with manual transmission, always park on a slope. Who needs good batteries then?

 

[346ci]

Been using Napa Legend's for years, their pro rating is good and usually get 5 years out of one.

A trickle charger is a must if the vehicle sits for long periods.