Centerfire can on a rim fire

[EchoDeltaSierra]

I have my V-22 setup, and dang... it's so nice to be able to shoot something that feels so similar to my competition centerfire. That said, I find it irritating how far off my balance point is because I always run a can on my comp gun. Have any of you played with running your sealed centerfire can on a rimfire? I know what everyone says, but I'm curious if there is any real world testing.

Does shooting 22LR, then switching to centerfire "burn out" any of the stuff left behind by 22LR? Is there something I could soak or ultrasonic clean the centerfire can with? Am I being stupid for even thinking such heresy?

Just exploring options. Thanks!

 

[biffj]

I can tell you from doing repairs on suppressors for the last 20 years that running rimfire through a high power can is a bad idea. For the same reason 22 rimfire cans need to come apart you should limit running rimfire through your centerfire cans. You will get buildup of fouling both soft and hard. There is ground glass in the primer compound in most primers. In the LR the amount is a bit larger because they have to insure ignition all the way around the rim. The glass adds to the buildup in your suppressor and helps create a carbon/glass/lead oxide ceramic that is pretty hard. It tends to stick to the first baffle or two and after a time can be pretty significant. When you next run your high power round through the can it can break the debris loose creating a possible problem with bullets hitting baffles and or the debris hitting the baffles and causing damage. When you're running a sealed rifle can it just makes no sense to run rimfire through it. You paid more for it, you depend on it working with your high power rifle and you don't need to ding it up. Buy a can for your rimfire, one that you can take apart to clean. For the rimfire its a necessity, for high power its not.
Just my thoughts from a bit of real world experience.
Frank

 

[b6graham]

Theres a reason rimfire cans are the way they are. Unfortunately. Luckily the stamp costs the same as the can I guess

 

[JG26_Irish]

I ran a match at Peacemaker a couple years ago and one of the competitors in my squad ran a centerfire can on his CZ455. Worked pretty good as he scored about 3rd place out of 167 or so competitors. Somebody asked him about this practice gunking up his suppressor and he claimed to be doing this for a few years moving it back and forth from rimfire to centerfire with no noticeable ill effects. He did mention flushing it out with something but I cannot recall if he said carb cleaner or some other snake oil. This is pretty anecdotal and one data point is not conclusive. Biff's message above is likely better advice. If you have already been thru the ATF process once, it should be easier the 2nd time. Rimfire is pretty dirty $hit.

 

[Hoser]

I do it all the time for the exact same reason.

Every 500-1000 rounds I soak my TBAC Ultra 7 in CLR to clean it out. Not a big deal at all.

 

[EchoDeltaSierra]

Now this is getting interesting. I’ve talked to a few people who ARE shooting centerfire cans. Even with my centerfire, I pull the ASR break, give it and the can a soak, and clean the carbon off the barrel crown.

I imaging the safe answer from a manufacturer is to never, ever do this... but... there seems to be a different story emerging from those who dare.

 

[45cal4life]

If it's a sealed, stainless steel suppressor; Do a search for "the dip" 50/50 white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Nasty stuff once the lead dissolves though, use caution

 

[EchoDeltaSierra]

I do think it is better to have a dedicated 22 can that try to use a centerfire can.

Depends on the application. For average 22LR use, I completely agree; though for this application I’m trying to emulate the weight and balance point of my cenerfire. There would be benefit using the same can for both.

 

[biffj]

As with all things you can do as you wish, they're your toys. If you ask for advice from folks who know.....or at least think they know than you'll get stuff that may not agree with what you want. As always your mileage may vary.

Frank

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Well, if you shoot it too long before trying to clean it, itt could end up looking like this Sparrow.

I use a mixture of 50/50 white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and let it set overnight. That solution is not to be used on aluminum.

 

[Strykervet]

Well, if you shoot it too long before trying to clean it, itt could end up looking like this Sparrow.

I use a mixture of 50/50 white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and let it set overnight. That solution is not to be used on aluminum.

Been mentioned but I'll say it again, that also forms lead acetate which is skin soluble and highly poisonous so be damn careful if you do that, it's the easiest way to get lead poisoning in a significant dose I know of. It's no-shit hazardous waste and should be treated as such. In presence of copper it'll form copper acetate which isn't exactly food safe either.

An ultrasonic cleaner is much safer and I'm sure works much better --I have one but prefer Kroil and brush and just a quick cleanout, no point in detailing one, but I'm talking about takedowns. I don't really clean the centerfire can past the blast baffle.

I wouldn't use a nice sealed centerfire can though, fuck that. Rimfire and centerfire are night and day. IF you MUST have a bigger can, get a Liberty Mystic X or some shit that's still takedown and still has other uses (they make fine 9mm SBR cans IMO). Or hell, just tape a lead weight to a normal .22 can where it threads on if you just want it heavier.

Most of these cans have lifetime warranties so last thing I'd want is to void that over something like this. Especially something like an Ultra 7. Hell, every summer Capitol Armory and/or Sico GIVE .22 cans away if you buy something else!

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Bottom line, a person is going to do what they want to. As for the ultrasonic cleaner, everything I have used in mine doesn't get the Sparrow anywhere near clean. As for disposing of my mix, I pour it out and let it evaporate.

 

[BurtG]

Anyone running a 338 ultra on .22lr?

 

[Trent A]

Anyone running a 338 ultra on .22lr?

Going to sound stupid… but I’m HIGHLY considering it. I would make it a dedicated 22 LR suppressor though, I wouldn’t chance going back to a centerfire and screwing it up with a baffle strike. The main reason I am considering this is the fact that I’m in pursuit of finding the very best suppression that can be possibly achieved on a 22 LR. The TBAC 338 Ultra is the best at sound suppression for centerfire that I know of, so it would stand to reason it would provide the best suppression on the smaller scale of a 22 LR wouldn’t it? I just wish I could find someone who has actually done it. To those of you who have ran your centerfire Suppressor with 22 LR and are also familiar with what dedicated 22 LR suppressors sound like, have you found that the bigger centerfire suppressor is providing a lot more sound suppression? Honestly, I would much rather buy and use a purpose built dedicated 22 LR suppressor if it could get on par with what a TBAC 338 Ultra could provide, but to my knowledge, there aren’t any 22 LR suppressors out there that are 11” long, have a compatible volume, and have the capacity to catch and suppress fumes like the TBAC would provide. Out of curiosity,does anyone know of any 22 LR suppressors that are on the long and heavy side that would provide more suppression than your typical 22 LR suppressor? I would love to be able to shoot my standard velocity 22 LR and make them sound like the ‘suppressor’ rounds through a typical can. Hoping to achieve this with the TBAC but maybe that’s to tall of an order to even be asking if that can. I have no idea since I can’t find anyone whose done it.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Trent A, you need to service a 22 lr suppressor. The suppressor will get a lot of fouling from 22 lr. If you can't clean it then eventually it will clog up.

 

[Trent A]

Trent A, you need to service a 22 lr suppressor. The suppressor will get a lot of fouling from 22 lr. If you can't clean it then eventually it will clog up.

I planned on using the methods previously mentioned such as soaking them in CLR or Vinegar/peroxide mixture to liquify the internal junk in order to clean it out. I know it’s not ideal, but not sure what the other options are when running 22 LR through a sealed can. Does anyone know of any user serviceable centerfire cans that might work better? I’m in now way nocking 22 LR suppressors, they are awesome, just I find myself in pursuit of even more suppression than what they can offer. I did find one video of a guy comparing a Banish 22 to a Banish 223 both shooting a 22 LR pistol and a Bergara B14R, but, he was using subsonic. I want to see a comparison of standard velocity rounds through each. In the instance of this video using subsonic rounds though, I have to say, I couldn’t tell any difference between the two cans.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Hopefully your suppressor is totally free of aluminum and then you can use the dip solution which is a mix of 50/50 white distilled vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. IMO that's the best cleaning solution available but supposedly it deteriorates aluminum as well as your skin if you get it on you. You would probably be ok if you always cleaned it after 2-300 rounds.

 

[Trent A]

Hopefully your suppressor is totally free of aluminum and then you can use the dip solution which is a mix of 50/50 white distilled vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. IMO that's the best cleaning solution available but supposedly it deteriorates aluminum as well as your skin if you get it on you. You would probably be ok if you always cleaned it after 2-300 rounds.

Good to know about the aluminum. I’ll have to inquire as to that being a component before making my choice. I don’t believe the TBAC 338 Ultra BA has any aluminum parts to it but will double check before purchasing.

I’m certainly not opposed to going the rout of using a suppressor that’s dedicated/intended for use with 22 LR if there is something out there that provides more sound suppression than the Dead Air Mask, which is the only 22 LR can I have. Absolutely love it, but instantly left me wanting to find something even better. As goes human nature, right?!

As far as I’m aware of, the Mask is supposed to be the top dog in terms of noise suppression on a dedicated 22 LR, so naturally it’s had me scratching my head wondering if the larger centerfire cans could do an even better job on a 22 LR. With that in mind, it stood to reason that the best of the best in centerfire suppression (arguably), the TBAC 338 Ultra, would likely also provide the greatest degree of sound suppression shrouding the shot of the comparatively punitive 22 LR. I know it would make for a expensive, heavy, long, and inconvenient to clean setup, but if it can get me the best possible results that I’m looking for which is purely sound suppression at the cost of all else, then I would be more than willing to endure the inconveniences.

I just wish there was someone who had actually tried it. Awfully expensive gamble to make, having no idea if there will be any real world gain in sound suppression over the Mask I already own. Hoping maybe some of those who have tried a 22 LR through other centerfire cans might be able step in with their opinion regarding if it muffled things any better than other dedicated 22 LR cans that they have heard, to at least give me an idea if I might be headed down the right track with my thought patter here, or if my theory is amiss, before I go dropping that kind of money on a top of the line TBAC.

One point that I was worried about was the fact that the aperture being 338 vs 22, and thinking the difference in the opening might fail to provide adequate suppression, but, looking at the 338 ultra vs Magnus, the wider opening of the 338 still suppresses a 308 Win better than the more fitting 30 cal Magnus. Maybe I’m thinking about this wrong though, given the fact that a 308 Win is still a centerfire with a hell of a lot more oomf behind it than a 22 LR. Maybe the rate of gas’s expansion due to vast variance in pressures would affect how much would be allowed to be released from the end. Or maybe I’m just making up problems in my head that don’t even exist, which is very possible, and wouldn’t be the first time I’ve driven myself batty overthinking a situation… hell, it’s not even the only thing I can say that about in the last 24 hours, lol.

 

[DFOOSKING]

I've had a sealed all aluminum AAC Aviator for about 14yrs. I think I have about 20K through it of mostly CCI standards and subsonic. Has been a hammer of a hunting/pest control rig.

It's been a battle but its still going.

The manufacturer specifically told me over the phone BEFORE purchase that I could clean it. Soak in Kroil...blow it out. Kroil doesn't do shit except making your can stink and seap Kroil for a week or two afterward. I've soaked my suppressor in a zip lock bag filled with Kroil stood upright inside a paint can for a week. No different.

I've even reached into the 2nd and 3rd baffles and the end baffle with those steel hand "L" shaped picks you can buy in the ammo/cleaning section of the store in an attempt to physically remove/scrape crud. Made some headway there digging out some chunks. Also ran a bronze bore brush on a rod chucked into a drill to clean the main hole through the center....not that there is really much there.

I've had a gun shop a year ago stand it up vertically in a sonic cleaner. Did little to nothing. I even said I would write a letter saying I'm okay with it if they burn the finish off if it melts the lead/fouling out. Got it back and I couldn't tell they did anything really. If they got any out....it very little.

There's nothing out there that eats/dissolves lead....that also doesn't eat aluminum.