Chainsaw brand??

If I'm only going to need a chainsaw occasionally I just rent one.

That way I don't have any maintenance. When I take it back with a dull chain, the next time I need one I get one with a sharp chain. If I need a bigger saw I rent a bigger saw.
 
if you havnt already purchased just keep in mind husky's have 4 year warranties now and stihl has a 2year for home owners

if you do all your cutting at once and then let your saw set for awhile do NOT leave gas in it - buy a bottle of motomix and run some threw the system - you dont need to use the whole bottle just a little - it will stop the ethanol from eating your carb and system and killing your saw

ive heard... - not verified - that stihl is not making all their saws in germany anymore - supposedly only the larger professional saws such as the 660

now in my personal opinion i wouldnt be afraid to buy a husky cause they have the extra 2 years of warranty but i do think stihls are better

do some of your own research and look at power to weight ratio's more so than bar lengths

and regardless of what saw you get i cant say enough good about this tool - get it 2 in 1 Filing Guide & Saw Chain Sharpener | STIHL USA Mobile
 
Last edited:
To the OP: If and when you do get a saw, go to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up a few cans of TruFuel (red can 50:1 mix) and you won't have any issues. I have started saws that have sat for 2 years with fuel in them and they have started right up on this stuff. If you purchase a Stihl saw, the dealer will fill it with this fuel and chain oil before you receive it. Husqvarna also makes a 50:1 mix that is one octane rating higher but the can costs a dollar or two more. I was fortunate to grow up in Wyoming cutting firewood with my dad so I learned at a young age what I should and should not do; however, as you are new to felling trees, watching safety vids are nice but I would also recommend a book titled: To Fell a Tree: A Complete Guide to Successful Tree Felling and Woodcutting Methods (by Jepson). I came across this book several years ago and added it to my library.

Edit: To the above post, many of the Stihl models are built in the USA. While my 261 was built in the USA, my 660 was built in Germany. If you go to the Stihl page you can find out where the model is built under the features tab for most models.
 
Last edited:
Though not what I would recommend for you this is the first saw I ever ran professionally. 8.36 cu/in displacement, 32.5 lbs dry, and would take up to a 49 inch bar. About like toting a small motorcycle thru the woods.

Stihl 090 - YouTube
 
To me its worth every penny to save a little more money and pick up a pro series saw in whatever brand you can get the best dealer support from. Dont listen to the husqvarna bashers, their xp line of saws are bad ass. I myself run a husky 562xp and its a mean machine.
 
i wouldn't get your hopes with the new 201T. they suck. they get the job done, but they just don't have the balls. you can muscle a 200T and it takes it like a champ. the 201T just doesn't cut it. literally. it seems like stihl mishmashed the 192T and the 200T and the result was the 201T.

i would look for a decent 200T. i have been told by the older guys that the 020t was better than the 200T. i never used an 020, and i think the 200T is the cats meow.

I think the 192T was the one my dealer recommended as a replacement to the 011. Haven't been off work to go check one out in person.
 
Stihl finally admitted the 201 is a dog. They now offer a patch/update kit to get it closer to where it should be. The current productions 201s should be a lot better than older production.
 
Maybe this belongs in the motivational thread but for the stihl fans image.jpg
 
Just about as many answers/opinions as the typical "which rifle should I buy" thread. About the same value also,ie: Mines bigger than yours, My aunt Matilda only used..... My Papa said......, I once sawed a 5 tree group at seven tree lengths that you could cover with a poncho liner. etc. Unless you are a pro user that is regularly updating your equipment your helpful anecdotes may not be accurate. The Stihl,Husky, Sachs Dolmar,Mercury-Diston,whatever that your dad ran may have been fine in the day. Things change, models evolve, some de-volve. Your local saw shop can make or break about any brand. The shop I have used for the last 40 odd years is owned and operated by a former logger and professional logging competitor. When he sets a saw up it just works!
I would stay away from casual user saws in general and off brands in particular. JMNHO As an aside, I've ran Huskys for the last 35 years.
 
Hey guys I'm looking to purchase a new chainsaw hopefully soon and was wondering a good brand and why you would recomend it. I only use a saw occasionally but I want a good one, I'm tired of junk. I'm considering husqvarna, stihl, or johnsteer (spelling?) in a 16"-20" for clearing shooting lanes, removing brush, cutting trees for firewood, just general purpose occasional use. If you had one saw what would it be?

If money is not an object a Stihl or Husq is the way.

But I bought a Craftsman about 4 or 5 years ago and I use it once a year, not the heaviest duty but it hasn't given me any issues and just WORKS. I can change blades out in a matter of minutes, all caps are easy to open.
18" blade, it just works and quite reliably.

Craftsman chainsaws are actually Poulan brand. Not bad for brush and small trees. I've taken down a couple of large trees with no issue.
I would not use one as a logger but as you said, brush etc, works great. Love the case as it can be stowed out of the way and sealed.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-18-i...p-07134190000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

spin_prod_898172812



Home Depot sells the Poulan brand, EXACT same saw.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Poulan-PRO-18-in-42-cc-Gas-Chainsaw-PP4218AVX/202367634

c305f06d-87dc-4d5c-8abf-7dc021dc7cec_400.jpg
 
Last edited:
Stihl finally admitted the 201 is a dog. They now offer a patch/update kit to get it closer to where it should be. The current productions 201s should be a lot better than older production.

muthafucker say what!!!

where did you hear this from?

as far as current production, define current. my 201 is just over a year old.
 
I hear saws made after May 2014 will have the upgrade. Still not as good as a 200 but it is better. Best bet is find a saw builder/modifier and send it off to them for a work over.

Kit is $138 and PN: 1145-007-1802.
 
Husqy Ranch 4.5. Pro's use them for tree jobs. I ran the piss out of mine for four years, had issues that I thought wold be shop costs. Neighbor's brother comes to visit(pro tree guy) he asks if I have a saw. He looks at mine, takes it away for three hours, and it not only came back CLEANER, but it was like it never left the shop as to mechanical ability.
I originally bought it for demo'ing my old deck(6x6, 4x4, 2x4), and trimming every tree on the property back.
They run, they run good, and with proper maintenance(I learned how to maintain mine) they run like hell
 
I've got to ask. What kind of experience do you have with chainsaws? Using a stihl demo saw to cut drunks from wrecked cars?

I have and like both stihl and Husqvarna. I'm not sure about the newer model numbers, but the older husq's that are professional saws started w/ a 3 (ie 365, 394) and are better saws.

Actually we carry the small Farm Boss (MS 261 I believe) around at work to clear the roadway from fallen trees and such during storms. For cutting people out of cars we use hydraulic Hurst tools (spreaders, cutters, rams, air bags). At home for cutting felling trees and bucking logs I own a MS 441. Its a beast of a saw and it exceeds my needs but I'd rather have and not need as opposed to need and not have.
 
I'm running a husky power head with a Oregon captured sprocket, chain and bar. It's a pretty agressive set up and works great. There has to be a reason that the people that do it for a living run stihl's and husky's. I'd buy either. Find whoever theocal dealer with the best rep is and buy there.
 
I have a friend that had a sweet Jonsered. He lent it to his brother inlaw and it suddenly shit the bed, seized up hard. The BIL said "What do you mean mix oil with the gas?"

Was the purpose of my story to say Josereds are shit? No certainly not. So what value is there in my little anecdote?

Stupidity can bring even the best equipment to a grinding halt. Knowledge and a low end machine will outperform stupidity and the best available.
 
stay away from the 361.

I'm going to assume you have never ran a MS361 or the one you ran wasn't tuned right. The 361 was the 2nd best Stihl ever made, next to the 044/440. For the power to weight ratio, the 361 can't be beat. With a simple muffler mod and tune, it would serve most firewood cutters very well.

All the big brands make series that are marketed towards the weekend warrior and pros. Finding a good dealer that can help you determine which one you need, without all the BS is getting harder to find. I haven't ran the 261 or 362 so I can't comment on those. The 362 better have some power compared to the added bulk vs the 361.

Small saw with a 16" b&c, try to find a NOS or mint Husky 346xp(non epa model).

Mid range saw with a 20" b&c, try to find a NOS or mint Stihl MS361.

Big saw with a 28" b&c, MS440. I believe Stihl has these in their current line up..

My current fleet is a muffler modded MS211(home owner grade) and a woods ported 044(10mm crank). Out of 20+ Stihls I used to have, those 2 are my favorite.

If you find a nice 346xp or MS361, go to arboristsite and search for muffler mods, either one will respond nicely to a opened up muffler. Those guys can guide you through the process and help get it tuned right, tuning is a must as the saw could run lean. PM me if needed. A dealer might help but EPA has cracked down hard on them doing such mods, most will say no.

Saws are like firearms, they can be hot rodded just the same.
 
I'm going to assume you have never ran a MS361 or the one you ran wasn't tuned right. The 361 was the 2nd best Stihl ever made, next to the 044/440. For the power to weight ratio, the 361 can't be beat. With a simple muffler mod and tune, it would serve most firewood cutters very well.

the 361 i used was a buddies saw. it was complete ass. the 362 was a different buddies saw, which i was more impressed with than the 361.

i prefer the 660 with a 25" bar.

if you are a "pro" firewood cutter, that is fine. when you spend 8-10 hours a day, 60-80' from the ground hanging in a tree from a rope, then we'll talk. :)
 
the 361 i used was a buddies saw. it was complete ass. the 362 was a different buddies saw, which i was more impressed with than the 361.

i prefer the 660 with a 25" bar.

if you are a "pro" firewood cutter, that is fine. when you spend 8-10 hours a day, 60-80' from the ground hanging in a tree from a rope, then we'll talk. :)

Not a pro by any means but have ran a lot of saws and know which ones work, the 361 was a hell of a saw, thank EPA for killing it.

I had a Dave Neiger 660, awesome power with a 8 pin sprocket/36" b&c, if I were felling massive redwoods all day, that would be my pick. Felling NC pines that are around 32" is more my style, the 044 with a Stihl LW 28" b&c is the ticket.

If you are running a 660 with a 25" b&c, you should look at getting a ported 440 or 372xp with a light weight bar, your body will thank you later.
 
The 440's have been replaced by the 441's; however, many just go with a 461 if given a choice between these as you get more saw for the same weight.

When there was rumor of killing the 440, I went and bought one, might have been around 2002, still have it NIB. Later on they brought it back out, must have had some spare EPA credits to use. I've had 2 441s, one was ported. Great saws and easy on the hands, still would not touch my 044 though. Haven't ran a 461 yet..
 
a guy that works for me (dave) bought 2 066s from a douche bag i used to work for. i didn't know this until after the transaction took place. he came in the next day, "hey, did you work for harry l**** a few years ago? i bought 2 066s from him yesterday". the old 066s are twice the saws the new 660s are.

i never had a problem ripping a 660 all day. i'm talking 8am til 6-7pm. lots of times that was in a tree, sometimes times it was on the ground. had a 660 with a 32" bar up a tree who knows how many 100s of hours. i prefer to use the power and bar length of a big saw to the same bar length and lesser power of a small saw; ie. 460 with a 25" bar compared to a 660 with a 25" bar. new guys think the 660 weighs alot. i tell them take it 60' up and see how heavy it gets! haha.

on a side note, i don't climb anymore. after back surgery last year, i gave up the spikes. i let dave do it now, i have no other choice.
 
I have had no problems with my Husky in 16 years. My shop switched to Echo. Everybody except the Stihl shop has gone to Echo. Folks around here cut mostly orchards.
 
Whatever saw you buy, wear your PPE!

My coworker wasn't wearing chaps and cut is kneecap in half, right down the middle this weekend. He's not going to be able to walk like a normal person, even after reconstructive surgery. Lucky he didn't bleed to death.
 
I have a little stihl that's made for climbers that's a neat little saw. I don't remember the model (it looks like the old .09); has the handle on top of the saw for easy one hand use. Great little saw for trimming fence line or trails. Light enough to comfortable carry over the shoulder with a rope tied as a sling. It still has the original 'safety chain' but needs replacing after discovering an 8" spick in some landscape timbers...

Ya... the in the tree thing was not part of that day's plan. All went well but I will refrain from repeating without the proper tool for the job :)
 
a guy that works for me (dave) bought 2 066s from a douche bag i used to work for. i didn't know this until after the transaction took place. he came in the next day, "hey, did you work for harry l**** a few years ago? i bought 2 066s from him yesterday". the old 066s are twice the saws the new 660s are.

i never had a problem ripping a 660 all day. i'm talking 8am til 6-7pm. lots of times that was in a tree, sometimes times it was on the ground. had a 660 with a 32" bar up a tree who knows how many 100s of hours. i prefer to use the power and bar length of a big saw to the same bar length and lesser power of a small saw; ie. 460 with a 25" bar compared to a 660 with a 25" bar. new guys think the 660 weighs alot. i tell them take it 60' up and see how heavy it gets! haha.

on a side note, i don't climb anymore. after back surgery last year, i gave up the spikes. i let dave do it now, i have no other choice.


If you can lug around a 660 for that long, you are a hoss. Mine was mostly for big stumps and noodling into smaller pieces.

The red light 066 saws seemed to be the most popular but as with most 066s, finding a nice one was hard.

I had a piped 088 that was pretty nasty, while not a full out race saw, it was fun. Still have a piped 026, runs on 112-116 fuel. After 5-6 cookies, it needs to cool down. Sounds like a mad bumble bee, lol.
 
Regardless of the saw, run it hard the first year on petrol oil, and then switch it over to Redline synthetic or AMSOIL.

I was actually out of oil and had a small amount of work to do, straight gas, ran like a champ, then mixed upa new batch when my AMSOIL dealer got me oil.
I've seen bathtub race boats do that as well, Redline or AMSOIL.

Oil matters....
 
Regardless of the saw, run it hard the first year on petrol oil, and then switch it over to Redline synthetic or AMSOIL.

I was actually out of oil and had a small amount of work to do, straight gas, ran like a champ, then mixed upa new batch when my AMSOIL dealer got me oil.
I've seen bathtub race boats do that as well, Redline or AMSOIL.

Oil matters....

This^^^. I dont know about Redline but I use Amsoil in EVERYTHING. I bought a new truck, ran it 1500 miles and switched all fluids to Amsoil. At 225K it still runs like new with 0 problems in that time. Plus milage will go up. Less friction. Use it.
 
My dad has had a Stihl 038 Magnum and has cut A LOT of firewood. I purchased my first saw last year and got a Stihl MS 291 and couldn't be happier. The 291 is a great firewood saw and can handle some bigger jobs as well. For the money I feel like you get a great product…it has an engine…cost less than a Glock.
 
cool.

now, just keep it outta the dirt!

oh yeah, be careful too!



EDIT:
just out of curiosity, why did you go with what you did?

Well I think a there are a lot if stihl lovers out there and there are quite a few dealers around me. I was really curious about dolmar but the dealer near me had all their dolmar stuff stolen and they weren't sure when they were going to get more in.....so I decided they weren't reliable and the next closest is farther than I would care to drive for minor parts or service. My dad uses husky and I like them, I just wanted to try something different. I got the 291 because it is large enough for whatever I need. It has a 18" bar on but I could go 20" if I wanted, that same size saw in a pro would have costed me as much as I spent on my saw and all my ppe, so I chose a cheaper saw. It is awsome! I wish my car engine sounded like this saw! I will eventually get the homeowners 171??? I think for limbin, brush cutting, and such
 
I have two Husky's and I have never had any problems. One I bought used at a pawn 16 years ago the other my grandfather bought before that and they both fire right up still and all I do is sharpen blades and add more gas and chain oil.
 
I would have traded all the PPE for a pro saw in a heart beat. You should have glasses and muffs/plugs already and what man does not have gloves. Let me know how often you wear those chaps and hard hat.

Ditch that safety chain.
 
Last edited: