Chassis forend length and suppressors, how much does barrel need to stick out?

Tyler Kemp

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Aug 23, 2008
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Just started the first batch of production bullpup chassis yesterday. I want to offer various forend lengths for shorter vs longer barrels. Pictured below is a "mid" length forend with a 20" barrel. We will offer a "long version" that is 6" increased in length, and a short version. The short version I want to cater to 16" barrels, and being able to put a suppressor on with as streamlined a look as possible, like the DT Covert system. It is imperative this work with a wide range of setups, so essentially what I'm hoping to find out, is how far the worst case scenario QD system sits over the barrel. Alternate wording, how far does the barrel need to stick out from a short forend to work with almost all suppressors? Hopefully my question made sense, and thanks in advance!

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Hey Ty, having watched this project from your initial post, its great to see a production model. That certainly looks slick.

Sincere congrats on all the hard work paying off. I hope you sell a ton of them.
 
I've been following the MK Machining bull pup since I first stumbled across you guys. That thing is pretty sweet, can't wait to see some pics with it decked out with a cool color scheme. I would say stick with the 3 options you laid out above, that will cover 90% of the buyers needs and you could also do custom runs for the outliers.
 
For direct thread you only need 0.5". For QD you need at least 1" from muzzle to rail. This would accommodate 99% of all non-reflex suppressors. There will be oddball suppressor out there made by small companies and individuals that would be very difficult to compensate for. Another option is to incerease your i.d. to greater than 1.5" which is a common suppressor o.d..
 
Oh, don't forget the coefficient of thermal expansion! Aluminum grows quite a bit when heated, particularly the length dimension. It would be prudent to do a little math even if it's just a mental exercise.
Also, direct threading is generally considered the most repeatable and therefore accurate way to mount a can.