Christensen Modern Precision Rifle
- Thread starter jb1000br
- Start date
i have my 300 wm back . Jimmy took great care of me . It shoots much better now .
Threw the new AGM Rattler TS50-640 thermal on the @christensenarms MPR 6mm ARC and did a rough bore-sight. I'll zero it one day this weekend, maybe tomorrow or Sunday, depending on the weather, or if I get to go to the range. Looks right at home on there... 
Also, a very interesting tidbit, I am now even MORE impressed with the ARC M-Brace rings. I removed and reinstalled my XTR-III several times using my Fix-It-Sticks 55 in-lbs limiter and the scope was still dead-on zero each time. That gives me faith that I can swap from my XTR-III to my AGM Rattler TS50-640 for coyote hunting.
Also, a very interesting tidbit, I am now even MORE impressed with the ARC M-Brace rings. I removed and reinstalled my XTR-III several times using my Fix-It-Sticks 55 in-lbs limiter and the scope was still dead-on zero each time. That gives me faith that I can swap from my XTR-III to my AGM Rattler TS50-640 for coyote hunting.
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Yeah, I'm not a fan of the full handguard either... But it is what it is. I'm hoping @christensenarms has something to release at SHOT that will allow us to purchase separate in their online store that will remedy this. I'd love to see an open-top CF handgaurd with MLOK on the sides & bottom, and a full-length ARCA rail machined into the bottom of it...
@FuhQ after seeing what @Crgchck did to his handguards it has me rethinking what we thought would be a good design. The height of the handguard can very much be an issue for guys trying to run low-scope rings with larger objectives without having the cheek riser raised up a lot.
What's the thoughts on tool less adjustments on the stock of the MPR?
Jimmy
What's the thoughts on tool less adjustments on the stock of the MPR?
Jimmy
I’ll post better pics later.. the rifle on the left is an older .325 WSM that was built when Christensen was using Rem 700 actions.. to keep from butchering both handguards, I made that one with what I cut off the first one.. wanted to do that to see how I liked them prior to cutting the other down as the replacement cost was over $300. so it looks a little like shit in the pic but I later cut the original down like the first…
Just like he did on the right rifle, come straight up to the top of the chassis, and cut it straight off on both sides, just make it a convertible. Thicken up the carbon in the sides and bottom to make up for the missing support and to stiffen it up. That way you still get full height & length of the handguard & MLOK slots. You might could make it a seamless 2-piece design where you can drop in & slide-lock in the top piece if you want it, similar to the old LWRC M6A1 handguards.
As for tool-less adjustments, I think that would be good thing, but at the same time, once they’re set for me, they’re set, and I don’t move them. The only ones I have to move are the comb on my Solus chassis, because you can’t remove the bolt without moving the cheek piece out of the way. BUT, y’all already addressed this issue on the MPR chassis, with the scalloped cutout, so you don’t have to move it, so it’s not really necessary IMO for the MPR’s.
Adjustable LOP is kind of a non-point, unless you’re letting other people shoot your rifle for more than just a couple shots at the range, just to test it out.
Just my thoughts, but I’m sure others differ.
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@christensenarms I’d leave it full-length though. Chopping it down wouldn’t be the way to go IMO. I’d keep it at 14”.
I think we have something dropping soon that you MPR lovers might like. If anyone is going to be at the Dallas Safari Club show next week, we might be doing a little sneak launch before Shot Show of this new toy. So stop by and say hi and see the new thing. Maybe I will sneak some pictures here between DSC and Shot. I will see how I feel.
Don't even know what it is, but feel free to DM for shipping address for testing...
I only hunt my rifles so felt if I left just long enough to mount the occasional bipod I was good.. I also had fear with cutting the top off, it would lose some rigidity so if I left full length and mounted bipod on end it could possibly flex… I don’t think it would have though.. still pretty rigid. I agree with you on tooless adjustments.. once setup, it’s setup and I’m not much on loaning rifles anymore and ones I do are shit with shit glass.Just like he did on the right rifle, come straight up to the top of the chassis, and cut it straight off on both sides, just make it a convertible. Thicken up the carbon in the sides and bottom to make up for the missing support and to stiffen it up. That way you still get full height & length of the handguard & MLOK slots. You might could make it a seamless 2-piece design where you can drop in & slide-lock in the top piece if you want it, similar to the old LWRC M6A1 handguards.
As for tool-less adjustments, I think that would be good thing, but at the same time, once they’re set for me, they’re set, and I don’t move them. The only ones I have to move are the comb on my Solus chassis, because you can’t remove the bolt without moving the cheek piece out of the way. BUT, y’all already addressed this issue on the MPR chassis, with the scalloped cutout, so you don’t have to move it, so it’s not really necessary IMO for the MPR’s.
Adjustable LOP is kind of a non-point, unless you’re letting other people shoot your rifle for more than just a couple shots at the range, just to test it out.
Just my thoughts, but I’m sure others differ.
Since I’m triggering great ideas, I could really use a LA chassis..
.The height and interference of low scope was what got my wheels turning.. then it was a matter of “well if I’m cutting”, I may as well trim some more fat and shed all I can while being creative.
Christen Arms MPR in 7mm PRC. Waiting for the weather to get above -20 to be able to test the barrel out. I have a Benchmark Heavy Varmint contour Stainless Steel barrel waiting to replace the Carbon Fibre barrel just in case. The scope is the trusty Burris Veracity PH 5-20x50 that does all my calculations for me out to 1400m, which is fine since this will generally be shooting under 1200m for most competitions I plan on doing.
I love their chassis. I just wish they made them a touch thicker and opened the recoil lug area to .250 so custom actions could drop in.
@christensenarms Hey Jimmy, I definitely need 2 of those new MPRR's in 16" .22LR and .17 HMR.
Will this chassis be available for previous Ranger owners?
Will this chassis be available for previous Ranger owners?
Nice. I just picked up the Bergara in 7 PRC with a Tract optic and a Fat Bastard. Too cold to do much but it looks like it may be a .5 MOA rifle. Will know more when it warms up enough to be comfortable so I'm not shaking so hard.
I've been looking at one of the MPR rifles for a bit and I'm very temped. I'm looking at one of the magnum calibers but I have some concerns about the CF barrel throwing flyers when they get hot. Has anyone had an issue with their barrels after they get heated?
Glad to see CA is taking care of their customers.
Glad to see CA is taking care of their customers.
I'll sell mine. 300 prc
Attachments
I’ve a had a bit of creek water so hope this makes sense..
Yes I have multiple christensens and proof carbon wrapped barreled rifles and yes I experience flyers so to speak.. but no more tHan you’ll see in steel barrels.. the difference is that ( in my experience) , the steel barrel will slowly shift in a certain direction as it’s warming up, where as the carbon will hold its ground for 3-4 rounds and then suddenly do so.. and suddenly return.. but I’d bet that if you took a similar weight (not diameter) steel barrel and compared the groups over a 6 shot group, the carbon would hold a tighter overall group. Just my experience.. mine are 6.5cm, 6.5 PRC, .308, 300wsm, 300prc, 30 nosler, and .325wsm
The 6.5cm is a 24” proof Sendero and it does it the least. The worst is the 20” WSM which is also a proof Sendero.
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I got a .300blk mpp that occasionally has some light primer strikes with factory rounds. Taking those rounds and loading them into an ar fires them no problem. Has anyone else been getting light primer strikes and have a fix for this issue?
Try lubing your firing pin. If that doesnt do it then you might need a stronger spring.
A few thoughts to add to this conversation, as I love the platform but the handguard is my only hang up as well:
Agree with what has been said by the others;
cutting the handguard down to match the top of the chassis is probably the way to go.
Personally, the top half of the hand guard not aligning with the receiver and resulting in essentially a large rectangle is somewhat off putting, and takes away from the more “custom” feel. It being solid material with no cutouts (I understand they’re unnecessary in this context) also makes it feel visually “heavier”. A good comparison might be the Sig Cross; their handguard undoubtedly weighs more but “looks” lighter because it’s so open.
If you do rework the handguard, I would also make the argument that with the introduction of the MPR Competition at the same msrp, this current handguard with the the full-length wide/flat bottom could be relegated to that model, assuming the intention was added stability on sandbags. Could likely get away with transitioning to a more narrow/streamlined base for the standard MPR given it’s probable use-case of targets and hunting.
Hopefully this is constructive, it is intended as such.
Also, any plans to bring the forged carbon over to the barrel so that the appearance is congruent with the new chassis components?
yeah i had some issues with a barrel a few years old but they took care of the issue i had .
Well I have to say this is the FIRST Christensen Arms rifle I own that has failed me (this is my 7th CA rifle). My new 7 PRC MPR will not group anything better than 2 inches at 100 yards no matter what I do. Tried both Hornady Precision Hunter and Hornady Match and doesn't make a difference. $3600 CAD for a rifle that shoots worse than my Savage....
Have you reached out to them.
I don’t have a dog in this fight but will say everyone “including myself” is bad about quickly posting dissatisfaction prior to reaching out to Christensen. My experience with their customer service is VERY positive. It does suck that I’ve had to call on them a couple times but they have been very responsive.
Buying a factory rifle can be a crap shoot. But if you read through the pages here, it's not hard to assume what you're going to get when purchasing a CA rifle. A bit of a bummer...on paper the MPR rifle checks a lot of boxes.
I have. And I do work for the Canadian warranty center for CA. The biggest issue is that I have a competition this spring and the rifle probably won't be fixed by then.
When I called to ask about a replacement CF hanguard Christensen said they do not sell any. I was looking to buy a handguard and check rest in the FFT style so I had both.
You find it? I picked up an MPR chassis to try out while I'm waiting on something else but realized the 17" handguard is longer than my 16.5" barrel... was hoping to snag a 14"
I was excited to have finally found a MPR chassis. Sadly I did not read up enough to know that it won't accept oversize recoil lugs. I had a Tenacity/Proof ready to drop into it. Has anyone milled out the recoil-lug-inlet on the MPR chassis?
I have milled one to put a Curtis in.. did not turn out the way I hoped.. my plan was to open it up and then bed it.. when I dry fit the BA in it, it wedge locked in and I just torqued and left it.
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Table saw and miter saw.. band saw would work though.. it’s a little tricky as the side slots do not line up with the bottom so I
first cut the hand guard to the length I wanted. Used miter saw for this. You want to do this first so that the material is supported all around. I cut it right between 2 bottom slots..
Second tilt your blade to a 45 cut from top down to the back side of side slot. You have to make this cut twice as the blade will not make it to top of slot on backside. Blade will have to be tilted to other side and spin piec around.
Then I set the gate of my table saw so that when o run the piece through, it cuts just at the edge of the bend.
Chamfer/ease all edges with 400 grit wet sand paper.
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