Christensen Modern Precision Rifle

[Crgchck]

Did you use a bandsaw for this? Care to share your process?

Table saw and miter saw.. band saw would work though.. it’s a little tricky as the side slots do not line up with the bottom so I
first cut the hand guard to the length I wanted. Used miter saw for this. You want to do this first so that the material is supported all around. I cut it right between 2 bottom slots..
Second tilt your blade to a 45 cut from top down to the back side of side slot. You have to make this cut twice as the blade will not make it to top of slot on backside. Blade will have to be tilted to other side and spin piec around.
Then I set the gate of my table saw so that when o run the piece through, it cuts just at the edge of the bend.
Chamfer/ease all edges with 400 grit wet sand paper.

 

[godofthunder]

I was excited to have finally found a MPR chassis. Sadly I did not read up enough to know that it won't accept oversize recoil lugs. I had a Tenacity/Proof ready to drop into it. Has anyone milled out the recoil-lug-inlet on the MPR chassis?

How thick is the tenacity? I had read this but my origin dropped in yesterday and I measured the lug at .2505”

 

[godofthunder]

Table saw and miter saw.. band saw would work though.. it’s a little tricky as the side slots do not line up with the bottom so I
first cut the hand guard to the length I wanted. Used miter saw for this. You want to do this first so that the material is supported all around. I cut it right between 2 bottom slots..
Second tilt your blade to a 45 cut from top down to the back side of side slot. You have to make this cut twice as the blade will not make it to top of slot on backside. Blade will have to be tilted to other side and spin piec around.
Then I set the gate of my table saw so that when o run the piece through, it cuts just at the edge of the bend.
Chamfer/ease all edges with 400 grit wet sand paper.View attachment 8362632

Thanks, I’ll use a band saw (it’s all I have). Just want to shorten the length for my barrel and make a notch for the rail on my Origin.

I was worried about the edge fraying or epoxy splintering along the cut edges.

 

[FuhQ]

Thanks, I’ll use a band saw (it’s all I have). Just want to shorten the length for my barrel and make a notch for the rail on my Origin.

I was worried about the edge fraying or epoxy splintering along the cut edges.

Use blue painters tape to center your cut line on, then cut through the middle of the tape. Then while the tape is still on the pieces, use some sand paper and smooth the edges down. Not sure what type of resin to use to seal the ends up, but maybe @christensenarms can tell you.

 

[godofthunder]

Use blue painters tape to center your cut line on, then cut through the middle of the tape. Then while the tape is still on the pieces, use some sand paper and smooth the edges down. Not sure what type of resin to use to seal the ends up, but maybe @christensenarms can tell you.

I actually ended up doing exactly this, except for sealing the edges. I wet sanded it some after the cuts I made - I had to shorten it some for my 16.5" 6 arc barrel and cut out a spot for my Origin's rail - and I didn't really feel like where I cut needed sealed. Maybe I will down the line I don't know. I might just make an aluminum handguard for this instead.

 

[Crgchck]

I actually ended up doing exactly this, except for sealing the edges. I wet sanded it some after the cuts I made - I had to shorten it some for my 16.5" 6 arc barrel and cut out a spot for my Origin's rail - and I didn't really feel like where I cut needed sealed. Maybe I will down the line I don't know. I might just make an aluminum handguard for this instead.

Just my opinion, but I feel the carbon is impregnated with resin. I did not feel the need to seal afterwards. The wet sand is a must to ease the edges to prevent chipping or future splintering. As far as cutting the slot for rail, that will be hard to do with bandsaw. The only other advice I have is to drill a 3/16” to the inside corner of the slot so that the outside of the bit just reaches the outside lines. That will give you a small radius in the corners and prevent cracking.. if you want to tape it off, mark where you want it cut, and send to me, I’d me more than happy to do it for you and send back
@godofthunder
Edit: sorry I see now you’ve already done it.. some how thought that was 2 different people.. glad it worked out for you.

 

[ArmedGinger]

Still no update on my 7 PRC MPR that is currently in for warranty work. I no longer work for the Warranty Center here in Canada so we will see how that effects the length of the work

 

[just browsing]

I heard someone dragged some NRL skull with one of these bitches at the Arena match last weekend.

 

[Tengo1]

Used my MPR to take 2nd place in the Utah Summer Games 1,000 yard steel plate challenge. Felt good to earn a Silver medal with a factory gun against a group of competitors mostly shooting $4,000 custom rifles in wildcat calibers.

 

[Welldone7.5]

What caliber?

 

[Crgchck]

Use my MPR to take 2nd place in the Utah Summer Games 1,000 yard steel plate challenge. Felt good to earn a Silver medal with a factory gun against a group of competitors mostly shooting $4,000 custom rifles in wildcat calibers.

View attachment 8401072
View attachment 8401073

Good shit

 

[Tengo1]

What caliber?

6.5 Creedmoor, reloads using 4X fired Hornady Brass, 140 gr ELM bullets, and 41.6 gr of H4350.

 

[FuhQ]

16” MPR .308 Win w/ the new TBAC Magnus-S HUB can…

 

[christensenarms]

Used my MPR to take 2nd place in the Utah Summer Games 1,000 yard steel plate challenge. Felt good to earn a Silver medal with a factory gun against a group of competitors mostly shooting $4,000 custom rifles in wildcat calibers.

View attachment 8401072
View attachment 8401073

Awesome job Tengo1!!!! You have an awesome support group and cheer section to help you out!!!

 

[FuhQ]

It's not an MPR, but it's my 20" @christensenarms Ridgeline FFT 7mm-08 with the first shots through the all-new (just released) TBAC Magnus-S HUB .30 caliber suppressor...

 

[christensenarms]

Just a couple of MPR Rimfires that I have been getting ready for an event. Pretty fun shooter!

 

[FuhQ]

New video is up comparing the BRAND NEW ThunderBeast Magnus-S HUB with the full-size Magnus HUB suppressor.

 

[ArmedGinger]

Well after 14 weeks I may be getting an update on the warranty of my rifle. I used to work at one of the warranty centers and left not on the best of terms. Meanwhile my rifle had sat there for 14 weeks waiting for warranty work.

I contacted CA directly and asked if I could send my rifle from Canada to them in the US to get the work done. Talked to a nice lady by the name of Lesley who called up the warranty center and asked them to please fix my rifle and give me an update asap.

We will see if it gets done or if they will give the old "we could find nothing wrong" spiel and send it back but either way, at least CA stepped up to bat.

I should note this is the same place where I got them to rebarrel a firearm and after I got it home and took it out shooting I found the headspace was drastically wrong (a handgun that could fire without the slide being fully closed) and when I took it back they kept it for a year before telling me they weren't comfortable fixing it and to take it to someone else.

 

[Outdoors4life]

Hey Kyle,


I called and left messages, as well as sent text messages, but had not heard back from you, until today.

Regarding your Luger, I find it interesting what details you choose to share and what you leave out. We installed a pre-chambered barrel for you, indexed it, and aligned the sights. As discussed, we don't have a reamer for this caliber since it's not on our chamber list. You had the option to supply us with a reamer, but you chose not to spend the money on one. The pistol cycled fine with some ammunition, but not with others. Also, as a staff member, you didn't have to pay for the labor, so staff projects are not prioritized over the 400+ paying customer projects ahead of yours. This was all explained to you, and your project sat here waiting for the reamer, which you ultimately decided not to provide. Feel free to call us anytime to discuss any concerns you may have.

 

[ArmedGinger]

Hey Kyle,


I called and left messages, as well as sent text messages, but had not heard back from you, until today.

Regarding your Luger, I find it interesting what details you choose to share and what you leave out. We installed a pre-chambered barrel for you, indexed it, and aligned the sights. As discussed, we don't have a reamer for this caliber since it's not on our chamber list. You had the option to supply us with a reamer, but you chose not to spend the money on one. The pistol cycled fine with some ammunition, but not with others. Also, as a staff member, you didn't have to pay for the labor, so staff projects are not prioritized over the 400+ paying customer projects ahead of yours. This was all explained to you, and your project sat here waiting for the reamer, which you ultimately decided not to provide. Feel free to call us anytime to discuss any concerns you may have.

Hello Aaron,

Yes I was an employee. I asked long before I ever bought the barrel if the barrel swap could be done and told it could without issue. No reamer was mentioned at that time. So I dropped it off and got the barrel swapped. I picked it up once it was done and took it out shooting. With the first shot I could immediately see what was wrong.

The slide couldnt close fully on ANY ammo used (FYI on a luger that means the slide is partially standing up and you can't use the sights as well as being a danger, aka a headspace issue). That is a safety flaw and definately should have been fixed and should not have been released for anyone to shoot.

As for a reamer, no one asked me to supply a 9mm reamer. I was told that I had to wait for one of the gunsmiths to work on the gun as part of their training. I was told this by the head gunsmith. I asked about the status every two months and was always told the same thing, just had to wait for the one gunsmith to become available.

But I guess because I was an employee at the time it's ok to let an unsafe firearm out the door without quality testing.

Oh and as for the CA warranty, that was 14 weeks (with a turn around time of 6-8 weeks I was told) without anything being touched and no one contacted me about the warranty until I asked CA to get involved and then I got contacted about the warranty from your business. So yes, the day before yesterday you finally messaged me concerning the warranty l, while I was interning my mother and grandfather and in the middle of their funeral.

Oh and this CA warranty was after I was no longer an employee, so I was a "customer" at the time.

 

[Outdoors4life]

Still no update on my 7 PRC MPR that is currently in for warranty work. I no longer work for the Warranty Center here in Canada so we will see how that effects the length of the work

Hello Aaron,

Yes I was an employee. I asked long before I ever bought the barrel if the barrel swap could be done and told it could without issue. No reamer was mentioned at that time. So I dropped it off and got the barrel swapped. I picked it up once it was done and took it out shooting. With the first shot I could immediately see what was wrong.

The slide couldnt close fully on ANY ammo used (FYI on a luger that means the slide is partially standing up and you can't use the sights as well as being a danger, aka a headspace issue). That is a safety flaw and definately should have been fixed and should not have been released for anyone to shoot.

As for a reamer, no one asked me to supply a 9mm reamer. I was told that I had to wait for one of the gunsmiths to work on the gun as part of their training. I was told this by the head gunsmith. I asked about the status every two months and was always told the same thing, just had to wait for the one gunsmith to become available.

But I guess because I was an employee at the time it's ok to let an unsafe firearm out the door without quality testing.

Oh and as for the CA warranty, that was 14 weeks (with a turn around time of 6-8 weeks I was told) without anything being touched and no one contacted me about the warranty until I asked CA to get involved and then I got contacted about the warranty from your business. So yes, the day before yesterday you finally messaged me concerning the warranty l, while I was interning my mother and grandfather and in the middle of their funeral.

Oh and this CA warranty was after I was no longer an employee, so I was a "customer" at the time.

Hey Kyle, I am sorry for your loss and I hear ya and would live to discuss this deeper, but due to you being a former and disgruntled employee, there is no point continuing this any further as it would just be a "he said she said". You now have your rifle, and it shoots sub MOA. Take care and we wish you the best in your future endeavours.

 

[FuhQ]

New video of the brand new TBAC Magnus-S HUB can on a 16" @christensenarms MPR .308 Win with subs.

Be sure to go give it a like and share it on your socials, with YouTube harassing 2A content, every little bit of help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Jonjon92]

Just picked up this MPR lightly shot in 6.5cm for $1300. Very happy with it so far. Shoots .5 moa consistently with 130gr bergers

 

[wcb6092]

EDIT: See post #928 User error. Nothing wrong with the rifle.

I picked up an MPR Competition in 6MM ARC. I went over the rifle before mounting a scope checking all the screws etc. The top rail was tightened just enough to barely hold it on. I torqued the screws to 20 pounds and took it to the range today to do the barrel break in.

The first few rounds the brass would just barely clear the chamber. Then I was lucky if one in 10 rounds ejected. As far as accuracy I was using Hornady Black and then Hornady Match 108 grain. The accuracy started out good but then quickly opened up. I never let the barrel get hot and spent 5 hours shooting 55 rounds. The first 6 rounds I cleaned after every shot and the remainder after 2- 3 shot groups just like the manual said to do.

Does not matter if you run the bolt fast or slow, no ejection.

After reading this thread I thought Christensen Arms had picked up on their quality control and they have a new man taking care of that.

I am not sure when the rifle was manufactured but I guess it will have to go back to resolve some issues. After spending $2000.00 I was having thoughts at the range that I should have bought a Savage or had a gunsmith build me a nice rifle.

I have never bought a new bolt action gun that will not eject the casings.

 

[FuhQ]

I picked up an MPR Competition in 6MM ARC. I went over the rifle before mounting a scope checking all the screws etc. The top rail was tightened just enough to barely hold it on. I torqued the screws to 20 pounds and took it to the range today to do the barrel break in.

The first few rounds the brass would just barely clear the chamber. Then I was lucky if one in 10 rounds ejected. As far as accuracy I was using Hornady Black and then Hornady Match 108 grain. The accuracy started out good but then quickly opened up. I never let the barrel get hot and spent 5 hours shooting 55 rounds. The first 6 rounds I cleaned after every shot and the remainder after 2- 3 shot groups just like the manual said to do.

Does not matter if you run the bolt fast or slow, no ejection.

After reading this thread I thought Christensen Arms had picked up on their quality control and they have a new man taking care of that.

I am not sure when the rifle was manufactured but I guess it will have to go back to resolve some issues. After spending $2000.00 I was having thoughts at the range that I should have bought a Savage or had a gunsmith build me a nice rifle.

I have never bought a new bolt action gun that will not eject the casings.

You do know that not all guns that are new sitting at dealers were made right before you buy it? Some could be older models built before the corrections, and it's just been sitting at a dealer or wholesaler/distributor since new, and nobody had bought it, so it's basically NOS (New Old Stock)...

Anyway, contact @christensenarms or Jimmy Durham @ Christensen Arms on the phone. He's a good dude, and very familiar with the 6mm ARC issues that they had with the early production run. I had one of them. It had to go back, and they built me a whole new gun, after the gunsmith couldn't get it to shoot either. Took a bit longer, but the end result was worth it. Contact Jimmy, he'll get you taken care of.

 

[wcb6092]

You do know that not all guns that are new sitting at dealers were made right before you buy it? Some could be older models built before the corrections, and it's just been sitting at a dealer or wholesaler/distributor since new, and nobody had bought it, so it's basically NOS (New Old Stock)...

Anyway, contact @christensenarms or Jimmy Durham @ Christensen Arms on the phone. He's a good dude, and very familiar with the 6mm ARC issues that they had with the early production run. I had one of them. It had to go back, and they built me a whole new gun, after the gunsmith couldn't get it to shoot either. Took a bit longer, but the end result was worth it. Contact Jimmy, he'll get you taken care of.

Thanks for the contact info. I was wondering the same about the manufacturing date and was going to ask about the date when I contact them tomorrow. Did your original MPR eject casings OK ?

 

[FuhQ]

Thanks for the contact info. I was wondering the same about the manufacturing date and was going to ask about the date when I contact them tomorrow. Did your original MPR eject casings OK ?

I have 5 CA rifles, including a Ranger 22, and none of them would have what I would call superb ejection, as far as strength goes (how far it throws the empty cases). The only one that really has a good solid (relatively normal for a 700 style rifle) ejection is my Ridgeline .280 Ackley. Other than that, the rest are kind of "meh", on the ejection strength. BUT that said, I don't want them to throw them very far, as I shoot mostly at a bench with a wall beside me that the brass hits, and falls down beside the gun. Soft ejection rifles work best for that purpose, so it doesn't sling them onto the hard wooden floor behind me, or off the bench. If I shoot really fast, and run the bolt fast and hard, then I get about 12-18" ejection from the port, which is right beside the wall I sit next to, so that works out well for me. And even in hunting situations, I don't lose my brass. I eject slow after a shot and catch the brass with my right hand, then ease the empty case into the shell holder on the buttstock, then slowly cycle another one in from the magazine.

 

[wcb6092]

I am happy to report that I owe a big apology to Christensen Arms. I had a March scope in an ADM quick detach mount that I have used on numerous rifles without a problem, and that is what I put on the MPR. I finally figured out the mount was interfering with the brass exiting the receiver. So no more extraction problems for me.

​

 

[FuhQ]

Finally some more rimfire content, with the @christensenarms Ranger 22 and TBAC 22 TD. It's POV, so you can actually see me shooting (and see the bullets flying) downrange at the 300 yard gongs.