I have a Rem 700 SPS tactical in .308 (heavy barrel) and want to put a muzzle brake on it. Get it threaded is not an option right now (no good gunsmith nearby, don't want to go through the hassle to ship it). Can you guys recommend a good clamp on muzzle brake? Thanks.
Clamp on muzzle brake?
- Thread starter HN7
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Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
Think you are dreaming.
To have one that matches the contour and is concentric to the bore I would have to say I wish you the best of luck.
Think you are dreaming.
To have one that matches the contour and is concentric to the bore I would have to say I wish you the best of luck.
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
Knowing how concentric the ouside of a rem 700 barrel is (wich is not very concentric at all) the bore of the brake would have to be fairly oversized to ensure that bullet does not come in contact with the brake. Therefore make it less effective in reducing recoil.
It's not the hard to ship a gun you could buy a shipping box from brownells or midway and ship directly to the gunsmith and then the smith can ship directly back to you.
Knowing how concentric the ouside of a rem 700 barrel is (wich is not very concentric at all) the bore of the brake would have to be fairly oversized to ensure that bullet does not come in contact with the brake. Therefore make it less effective in reducing recoil.
It's not the hard to ship a gun you could buy a shipping box from brownells or midway and ship directly to the gunsmith and then the smith can ship directly back to you.
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RWSGunsmithing</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Knowing how concentric the ouside of a rem 700 barrel is (wich is not very concentric at all) the bore of the brake would have to be fairly oversized to ensure that bullet does not come in contact with the brake. Therefore make it less effective in reducing recoil.
It's not the hard to ship a gun you could buy a shipping box from brownells or midway and ship directly to the gunsmith and then the smith can ship directly back to you. </div></div>
Sorry, noob question incoming. What do I need to do or take off the gun so that I can ship it to a gunsmith? I always though if you want to ship the barreled action, you'd need to go through a FFL holder.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RWSGunsmithing</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Knowing how concentric the ouside of a rem 700 barrel is (wich is not very concentric at all) the bore of the brake would have to be fairly oversized to ensure that bullet does not come in contact with the brake. Therefore make it less effective in reducing recoil.
It's not the hard to ship a gun you could buy a shipping box from brownells or midway and ship directly to the gunsmith and then the smith can ship directly back to you. </div></div>
Sorry, noob question incoming. What do I need to do or take off the gun so that I can ship it to a gunsmith? I always though if you want to ship the barreled action, you'd need to go through a FFL holder.
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
you can ship to a ffl smith and he can ship back to you. protect the trigger, pack it well. there is no change of ownership, just in custody or possession. i didnt even tall the usps what was in the box, i just insured it well. handguns must go overnight i believe
you can ship to a ffl smith and he can ship back to you. protect the trigger, pack it well. there is no change of ownership, just in custody or possession. i didnt even tall the usps what was in the box, i just insured it well. handguns must go overnight i believe
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
I had a muzzle brake on my AR15 before the ban was lifted and since it wasn't threaded I got a clamp on style. It had four set screws that you first made a dimple in the barrel and then tightened the set screws. I didn't see the same muzzle brake but di find this adaptor that has the same thing. Maybe go this route but in 308. And FYI, once i got the barrel threaded you couldn't see the dimples
Midway page
I had a muzzle brake on my AR15 before the ban was lifted and since it wasn't threaded I got a clamp on style. It had four set screws that you first made a dimple in the barrel and then tightened the set screws. I didn't see the same muzzle brake but di find this adaptor that has the same thing. Maybe go this route but in 308. And FYI, once i got the barrel threaded you couldn't see the dimples
Midway page
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can ship to a ffl smith and he can ship back to you. protect the trigger, pack it well. there is no change of ownership, just in custody or possession. i didnt even tall the usps what was in the box, i just insured it well. handguns must go overnight i believe </div></div>
Axeman is mostly right. You can ship directly to a ffl smith and he can send directly back to you. Just be sure to pack the trigger and the receiver tang well and insure it for more than it's worth. However you can not ship a pistol receiver via USPS it has to go UPS or fedex next day.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can ship to a ffl smith and he can ship back to you. protect the trigger, pack it well. there is no change of ownership, just in custody or possession. i didnt even tall the usps what was in the box, i just insured it well. handguns must go overnight i believe </div></div>
Axeman is mostly right. You can ship directly to a ffl smith and he can send directly back to you. Just be sure to pack the trigger and the receiver tang well and insure it for more than it's worth. However you can not ship a pistol receiver via USPS it has to go UPS or fedex next day.
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks so much guys, I did not know that. Looks like I will be sending it off to get threaded (maybe a suppressor later on). </div></div>
I take it you don't have the brake yet. I would highly suggest researching available brakes and select a brake. Then find a Hide "vendor gunsmith" that either manufactures said brake or distributes the brake and have them thread barrel, install the brake, and make a thread protector in "one stop". You will not regret doing it correct the first time.
Kevin
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks so much guys, I did not know that. Looks like I will be sending it off to get threaded (maybe a suppressor later on). </div></div>
I take it you don't have the brake yet. I would highly suggest researching available brakes and select a brake. Then find a Hide "vendor gunsmith" that either manufactures said brake or distributes the brake and have them thread barrel, install the brake, and make a thread protector in "one stop". You will not regret doing it correct the first time.
Kevin
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ktdls7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks so much guys, I did not know that. Looks like I will be sending it off to get threaded (maybe a suppressor later on). </div></div>
I take it you don't have the brake yet. I would highly suggest researching available brakes and select a brake. Then find a Hide "vendor gunsmith" that either manufactures said brake or distributes the brake and have them thread barrel, install the brake, and make a thread protector in "one stop". You will not regret doing it correct the first time.
Kevin </div></div>
Thanks. Yeah, I'll send my rifle to RWSGunsmithing. His price is pretty reasonable for the whole package.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ktdls7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks so much guys, I did not know that. Looks like I will be sending it off to get threaded (maybe a suppressor later on). </div></div>
I take it you don't have the brake yet. I would highly suggest researching available brakes and select a brake. Then find a Hide "vendor gunsmith" that either manufactures said brake or distributes the brake and have them thread barrel, install the brake, and make a thread protector in "one stop". You will not regret doing it correct the first time.
Kevin </div></div>
Thanks. Yeah, I'll send my rifle to RWSGunsmithing. His price is pretty reasonable for the whole package.
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ktdls7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks so much guys, I did not know that. Looks like I will be sending it off to get threaded (maybe a suppressor later on). </div></div>
I take it you don't have the brake yet. I would highly suggest researching available brakes and select a brake. Then find a Hide "vendor gunsmith" that either manufactures said brake or distributes the brake and have them thread barrel, install the brake, and make a thread protector in "one stop". You will not regret doing it correct the first time.
Kevin </div></div>
Thanks. Yeah, <span style="font-weight: bold">I'll send my rifle to RWSGunsmithing</span>. His price is pretty reasonable for the whole package. </div></div>
Robert is definitely GTG. You will be pleased with his work.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ktdls7</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HN7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks so much guys, I did not know that. Looks like I will be sending it off to get threaded (maybe a suppressor later on). </div></div>
I take it you don't have the brake yet. I would highly suggest researching available brakes and select a brake. Then find a Hide "vendor gunsmith" that either manufactures said brake or distributes the brake and have them thread barrel, install the brake, and make a thread protector in "one stop". You will not regret doing it correct the first time.
Kevin </div></div>
Thanks. Yeah, <span style="font-weight: bold">I'll send my rifle to RWSGunsmithing</span>. His price is pretty reasonable for the whole package. </div></div>
Robert is definitely GTG. You will be pleased with his work.
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Badshot308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.webshop.roedale.de/index.php?...82460c3643cb59c </div></div>
Own it.. love it!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Badshot308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.webshop.roedale.de/index.php?...82460c3643cb59c </div></div>
Own it.. love it!
Re: Clamp on muzzle brake?
<span style="font-style: italic">Knowing how concentric the ouside of a rem 700 barrel is (wich is not very concentric at all) the bore of the brake would have to be fairly oversized to ensure that bullet does not come in contact with the brake. Therefore make it less effective in reducing recoil. </span>
That statement is true. But cannot be applied to all muzzle brakes as a general rule, The Outside of Rem barrels aren't always concentric to the bore, but having a brake with a larger bore to accomodate all eventualities does not nesseceraly mean a loss in performance if the brake is designed to do its job right. On our brakes most of the recoil reduction is taken care of in the 1st baffle chamber, around 2/3, the second chamber handles whats left. The stainless steel insert is bored big enough to accomodate tollernaces in barrels as well as tollerances in gunsmith threading capability, it plays more of a function of keeping turbalance away from the arse of the bullet as much as possible and it looks good. You could actualy use the brake without the insert at all and still have very effective braking effect. We accurately measured these brakes on many calibers, the amount of propellant gas created and thus forced upon the baffles has a far far greater influence than a tight bore.
e.g.
take a .308winchester. with 2 loads, one pushing the limmits and another very mild. Fire them through our brake with the insert fitted to size, you will notice that the hard charging load creates more braking efficiency than the mild load.( bieng a result of the slightly higher recoil of a stiff load and the extra gas)
now fit a larger insert with a wider bore into the same brake. Fire the 2 same loads. you will notice that the recoil is very much the same as in the previouse (around 3% less, so little you'd not notice it) with the brake and same bore size insert.
What i'm saying is that the effect on braking efficiency is more reliant on the load than on the bore of the brake, You will see more variance in braking effect through load difference in a box on non premier factiory ammo than you will when going from a tightn to a slack bore.
So effectively you can use a brake thats designed for a 9.3mm projectile and has a 10.3 mm bore just as effectively on a .308win as a brake thats got the bore size at 8.5mm which would be right for a .308win brake.
This may not be the case with other brake designs, but it sure is with ours. Thats because we did our homework.
Now when it comes to fitting a brake. definately, most absolutely, threading the barrel is by far the best way to go about the whole issue. But in certain countries or states barrel threads on the muzzle are not legal. They may also not be desired by the rifle owner. In that case a properly designed clamp on style brake, used within its limitations ( I wouldnt use on one a .338 lapua, but I have customers who do, despite me telling them they shouldn't) does have its place and serve its purpose.
Like mentioned above,, the extra beauty of the threaded muzzle is you can fit a suppressor too. Make sure you get the muzzle threaded correctly and I am sure that most of the smiths who frequent here are more than capable. and i'm sure weve all seen and repaired backýard plumbing jobs done to butcher rifles.
No I go on the notion of that all rifle barrels should be threaded, otherwise we rifle manufacturers are not attending to our duties as manufacturers, and part of those duties include ensuring that the rifles we manufacture can be fitted with the nessecary equipment to reduce peak noise level at source, in line with most of the health and safety directives. The fact that seems to have gone straight on past the rest of the firearms industry not to mention the firearms resgistration folk in most countries.
Brakes however are usualy LOUD.. so make sure you wear hearing protection..
best Pete
<span style="font-style: italic">Knowing how concentric the ouside of a rem 700 barrel is (wich is not very concentric at all) the bore of the brake would have to be fairly oversized to ensure that bullet does not come in contact with the brake. Therefore make it less effective in reducing recoil. </span>
That statement is true. But cannot be applied to all muzzle brakes as a general rule, The Outside of Rem barrels aren't always concentric to the bore, but having a brake with a larger bore to accomodate all eventualities does not nesseceraly mean a loss in performance if the brake is designed to do its job right. On our brakes most of the recoil reduction is taken care of in the 1st baffle chamber, around 2/3, the second chamber handles whats left. The stainless steel insert is bored big enough to accomodate tollernaces in barrels as well as tollerances in gunsmith threading capability, it plays more of a function of keeping turbalance away from the arse of the bullet as much as possible and it looks good. You could actualy use the brake without the insert at all and still have very effective braking effect. We accurately measured these brakes on many calibers, the amount of propellant gas created and thus forced upon the baffles has a far far greater influence than a tight bore.
e.g.
take a .308winchester. with 2 loads, one pushing the limmits and another very mild. Fire them through our brake with the insert fitted to size, you will notice that the hard charging load creates more braking efficiency than the mild load.( bieng a result of the slightly higher recoil of a stiff load and the extra gas)
now fit a larger insert with a wider bore into the same brake. Fire the 2 same loads. you will notice that the recoil is very much the same as in the previouse (around 3% less, so little you'd not notice it) with the brake and same bore size insert.
What i'm saying is that the effect on braking efficiency is more reliant on the load than on the bore of the brake, You will see more variance in braking effect through load difference in a box on non premier factiory ammo than you will when going from a tightn to a slack bore.
So effectively you can use a brake thats designed for a 9.3mm projectile and has a 10.3 mm bore just as effectively on a .308win as a brake thats got the bore size at 8.5mm which would be right for a .308win brake.
This may not be the case with other brake designs, but it sure is with ours. Thats because we did our homework.
Now when it comes to fitting a brake. definately, most absolutely, threading the barrel is by far the best way to go about the whole issue. But in certain countries or states barrel threads on the muzzle are not legal. They may also not be desired by the rifle owner. In that case a properly designed clamp on style brake, used within its limitations ( I wouldnt use on one a .338 lapua, but I have customers who do, despite me telling them they shouldn't) does have its place and serve its purpose.
Like mentioned above,, the extra beauty of the threaded muzzle is you can fit a suppressor too. Make sure you get the muzzle threaded correctly and I am sure that most of the smiths who frequent here are more than capable. and i'm sure weve all seen and repaired backýard plumbing jobs done to butcher rifles.
No I go on the notion of that all rifle barrels should be threaded, otherwise we rifle manufacturers are not attending to our duties as manufacturers, and part of those duties include ensuring that the rifles we manufacture can be fitted with the nessecary equipment to reduce peak noise level at source, in line with most of the health and safety directives. The fact that seems to have gone straight on past the rest of the firearms industry not to mention the firearms resgistration folk in most countries.
Brakes however are usualy LOUD.. so make sure you wear hearing protection..
best Pete
