There is no pitting or any of the other things people believe will happen. All it is is clean. Not perfect but almost like new. I do not care about the finish either but it is just like it was when purchased. Now in intend to put a little WD40 on the inside and use it that way.
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CLR vs. Carbon
- Thread starter bjay
- Start date
I was going to start marketing it as a new coating ?
kind of wild how much copper actually builds up on and in a brake.
Cleaning a brake...
I’ve tried soaking in kroil, wet rumbling in Lemishine and dawn solutions, ultra sonic with gun cleaner, ultra Sonic with brass cleaner, soaked in hoppes, and finally tried clr.
Nothing else even came close. I did have to pick out the notches to get it spotless but it was effortless compared to any other method I’ve ever tried.
I did five minutes the first time an got a lot more than anything else had ever done out. Tried another ten and the Carbon came out with ease.
I did a time lapse video of the first five minutes but it was pretty boring. Just a slow forming black cloud in the bottom of the jar.
This was on an APA gen 3. I’ll test it out on stainless and cerakote tomorrow just to see how it actually reacts but the cleaning ability is no doubt spot on.
I’ve tried soaking in kroil, wet rumbling in Lemishine and dawn solutions, ultra sonic with gun cleaner, ultra Sonic with brass cleaner, soaked in hoppes, and finally tried clr.
Nothing else even came close. I did have to pick out the notches to get it spotless but it was effortless compared to any other method I’ve ever tried.
I did five minutes the first time an got a lot more than anything else had ever done out. Tried another ten and the Carbon came out with ease.
I did a time lapse video of the first five minutes but it was pretty boring. Just a slow forming black cloud in the bottom of the jar.
This was on an APA gen 3. I’ll test it out on stainless and cerakote tomorrow just to see how it actually reacts but the cleaning ability is no doubt spot on.
Late to the game.... but here's a video I did on CLR for what its worth
WD40 is not a lubricant. It is a water displacing (get it? WD? The 40th development iteration?) oil. Kroil is a penetrating oil, and is said to get UNDER fouling making it easier to use. I clean my Sako 6 PPC with kroil and Corbin bore cleaner, and the barrel looks brand new inside. JB would be a close second for Corbin. Kroil/JB is what most benchrest shooters use for cleaning.
WD40 is a lubricant as it has paraffin oil in the formulation. Water is also a lubricant (actually the first lubricant ever used).
I’ve been using clr lately. I’ll vice the barrel vertically and use an ear plug in muzzle with a bucket under in case it falls out. Fill with clr and leave for an hour or two.
Drain and patch out. Use nylon brush on drill a few passes. Then soak with boretech copper solvent for a while the same way. Nylon brush and patch. Barrel looks brand new with borescope.
My actual amount of time physically cleaning the barrel is 10min or less. Rest of time is soaking and forgetting about it.
Drain and patch out. Use nylon brush on drill a few passes. Then soak with boretech copper solvent for a while the same way. Nylon brush and patch. Barrel looks brand new with borescope.
My actual amount of time physically cleaning the barrel is 10min or less. Rest of time is soaking and forgetting about it.
This is why a borescope is really needed to know if a barrel is actually clean.
I actually did use a borescope after ALOT of use with a well known product and just assumed it wasn't going to get any better. I was wrong.
After a quick GTS CLR is not recommended on aluminum. So probably be safe and keep it away from some 22 cans or AR recievers.
Hi new to sniper hide not new to lr. Just wanted to give the .02 on clr and what I do. I use it on stainless or moly barrels. And I use it usually with can on. If you leave it on a coated surface over night it’ll mess it up. Never any problems with stainless. And I don’t put it on coated surfaces. What I do is leave can on tight and take can end cap off. Use electric tape at very end of can and put a rubber cap over end of can I got from hd I think. Or Lowe’s I don’t remember. But put a ring of tape on outside of end of can. Put rubber over. Tighten a metal clamp over rubber cap. And fill entire barrel and can with clr to chamber. I use a marked turkey baster and know exactly how many it takes to fill it up then start watching to final fill level. Leave it in for about 1-2 hours facing down obviously. Then I just take cap off and pour it into a tub then back into a used bottle. You can use it over and over till it’s black it still works. Once it settles I gently pour off 90% per say every time and just reuse it. I leave bottle tilted slightly so all the carbon goes to a corner on bottom. Take can off take apart or spray out. Run a couple patches through barrel. Then run a couple 90% alcohol patches through. Then copper clean. Then kroil coat everything in the end. Doesn’t eat steel. Or aluminum. Hope this helps. But basically just fill barrel with can on all the way and reuse. Best easiest cheapest method so far.
The aluminum part. Let me clarify. I don’t use it very long on aluminum. And when I did it’s kinda pointless anyway cause my couple aluminum cans are monocore so can’t take end cap off. If you leave it on aluminum overnight you bought it. But I definitely still use it on aluminum. Just not that long 10-15 minutes.
One thing I can remind you guys to do after youve used the CLR, is to stop the reaction. With cans ill use hot soapy water and run it through the can. Rise well. Let dry completely.
With barrels I use rubbing alcohol and run several patches through to neutralize then some dry patches followed by an oil patch, then a dry patch to soak up extra oil.
Deano
With barrels I use rubbing alcohol and run several patches through to neutralize then some dry patches followed by an oil patch, then a dry patch to soak up extra oil.
Deano
heard about it never tried it till I saw a video with some one using clr decided to try it my self and I'll be dammed if it did not work just as described in the video
it turned my 2 day soaking in slick 2000 to 20 min soak with clr .I also rinsed with hot water and light scrubbed with a nylon brush to remove excess carbon from the break then patched wipe with gun oil to protect and was done .
it turned my 2 day soaking in slick 2000 to 20 min soak with clr .I also rinsed with hot water and light scrubbed with a nylon brush to remove excess carbon from the break then patched wipe with gun oil to protect and was done .
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Exactly right with water on can and parts. And dry patches then alcohol then kroil in barrels. Usually I don’t have to spray anything cause moment I take cap off or open valve it all rushes out and kinda rinses itself out. I’ll take can off and toothbrush threads and brakes while it’s still wet. I’ll spray brakes with gun scrubber real quick too. I just run everything (cans and guts) under water in sink after. No soap. Wipe dry spray once or twice maybe and leave out to dry. Or you can throw internals in a vibrator case cleaner real quick. (How you dry cases after a wet tumble) Or once I rinse it if I’m doing two or more cans I’ll throw all internals in the toaster oven on a tray for like 15 minutes on 350 then just take it out and spray usually wd40 it’s cheap has a good spray pattern. On one gun I’m gonna guess I’ve done the valve and fill with clr probably 100 times now with no problems. If you want to go all out on this deal find a piece of hose that’s the same size as can and a piece of pvc. Buy appropriate size ball valve and put it all together so when you are ready to drain you just open valve and take off clamp that’s on hose on end of can. I made a piece of wood that just hangs on edge of garage sink and you just put barrel up against and down in it. It holds gun downwards. Or I put a bungee cord through stock by butt cheek and hang too. Or use a plastic coated hook and just hang from ejection port bolt out
