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Gunsmithing Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

#101
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

300, accuracy isnt all your getting but when we discuss the parts of a 3k$ build, its normally about accuracy. Not trying to be difficult though I know what you saying. A tupperware stocked rifle feels nothing like a mcmillan or manners on the same rifle.



I have to go catch up on a bolt knob or two.

be back on in a bit

Thanks guys
 
#102
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

don't do something just because that is how you were told to do it. understand why you are doing it that way. you really need to keep an open mind and think thing through for yourself. i doubt there are two rifle builders that agree on everything.

edit: and in response to your above quote, on a $3k+ rifle, i'd bet only about $1k has anything to do with accuracy. the rest of it is the finish, stock, bottom metal and other accessories.
 
#103
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

So you feel that how a stock fits you, or a 5lb trigger has no effect with accuracy potential?


crazy.gif
 
#104
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Its all about eliminating any possibility of inaccuracy. the goal is (should be) perfection. As a gun smith building a custom rifle one at a time, your goal should be absolute perfection. Its not like you are making 1000 receivers a month for Remington and have to balance quality and cost to make it for the price they need.

Now, Lets take it to the next level...And what i think is one of the biggest downfalls to Remington quality...the bolt. How do you true something that seldom has anything good to go off of? Bolt bodies are not strait, some are not round, bolt heads are brazed on crooked, bolt faces are seldom perpendicular to the crooked bolt body and usually just one lug will touch. How about how crappy the bold shroud fit is and how crooked the firing pin sits in some....So, where do you start? A perfectly trued action body with a shit bolt is still shit
smile.gif


Go..
 
#105
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

There are a whole lot of very good gunsmiths doing very good work in this country. An interesting point that I want to make as that gunsmiths by their very nature are problem solvers. We solve our problems using what we have on hand when the problem arises. The same problem will be solved 4 different ways in 4 different shops based on past experience and resources. Try not to get caught up in the “My way is better than your way” or “his way is great and his way is bad”. That being said when it comes to truing up a Remington 700 action it is important that you get everything concentric off of one center line.

I started truing up Remington 700 actions back in the late 80s. My process has evolved greatly since those first days. I have discovered that re-cutting the threads definitely makes a difference and it must be done right regardless of what ever method is used. This is an over simplification but this is how we do it in our shop. The center line of the bolt raceway must be located and indicated in. We do 100% of all our work in a four-jar chuck because it’s the only way to get the accuracy needed. (if one uses one of those spider type fixtures that works as a four jaw even if the fixture is held in a 3 jaw). Up until about 15 years ago I don’t remember seeing one of those spider type fixtures and our process evolved a different direction. We place a sacrificial aluminum sleeve over the action slide the action with the sleeve over an indicated mandrel and make a skim pass over the sleeve. We can get about 75 to 100 actions out of a sleeve before it gets too small and we have to throw it away. Now the center line of the sleeve and the center line of the action are identical. Next we remove the mandrel with the receiver on it and chuck up on the sleeve and indicate in the mandrel. Remove the mandrel and the receiver is turning true to its center line. All work must be done with this one and only grab. We use and recommend using mated inserts and by that I mean a lay-down 16 TPI insert with a topper designed for internal threads for the receiver and an external insert with a topper on the barrel. These inserts are engineered to work together. You can do better work if you work off the pitch diameter and not the OD. For the receiver you will need a good inside micrometer and on the barrel you will need a thread pitch micrometer. You can use thread wires and get there but they are cumbersome and slow to use. We open every thing out to a new standard. We make all of the receivers 1.075 x 16 TPI if that cleans every thing up and 90% of the time it does we stop there. If anything still remains of the original threads we take it out to 1.085 x 16 TPI. So far we have found only a very small number of actions that did not clean up at 1.085” so we took them out to 1.100” on the OD. The real benefit to standardizing our threads comes into play when we re-barrel an action at a latter date. There are several more procedures that need to be done to true up a 700 but the original post was about threading and I want to stay on track.

I would not begin to criticize milling threads because I’ve never done it and not having touched it with my own hands I’m not qualified to comment. One thing I do know is that single point threading the receiver and the barrel with the same lathe should create better mating threads than threads cut on 2 different machines. Looking at the pictures of Louisiana Precision’s set up him and I look to be on the same page at least on the action.
 
#106
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

hi there are heaps of ways to approach this but the two main things that have to be correct are forst the reciever face needs to be squared to the raceway and the lud abutments inside the action also have to be square to the centre line of the action so if you are going to all this trouble you may aswell recut the threads but if they are not or are recut being more accurate is sometimes hard to measure but most remington actions have a tapered thread int he from the factory i dont know their machining procedure but if it is a boring bar it seems like it is bending on entry or if it is a tap there is some taper in them. so if you cut a perfect paralell thread for a new match barrel it starts to thread into the action then starts to gall on the threads as they taper in so i believe it is best to recut the threads just so you can have a precise fitment of the barrel to the action.

if you want to invest in a tap set from pacific or manson that will still give you a much better finished reciever than the factory Remington but remember you still need a lathe to face the action on the mandrel between centres also the system cuts the threads .010" oversize they dont chase the existing threads they recut them as true as possible. the problem is sometimes the tapered bushes dont sit perfectly in some actions especialy if the action has any twists in it we use this system sometimes and i had an action that we could not use it on because the action was warped so it would need to be firstly reamed to a new centre then chucked and hand cut ont he lathe and that is what we did and replaced the bolt with an oversize bolt.

Sometimes one system will work and other times you need a diferent approach.

but to get most rem 700's to shoot realy well truing is a great place to start when you drop the coin for a new barrel to be fitted.



 
#107
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

I agree Glen....A polished turd is nothing more than a shiny turd. Because of this issue, I made a bolt fixture for the lathe that allows me to indicate the bolt in and it works extremely well. One set-up without the use of a steady rest to make all the truing cuts with two tool changes....
 
#108
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

I think the threading has been hashed enough and completely covered. Thats why i was changing it up a bit. This is/can be a great read for anyone wondering about action truing.

We just put a Remington bolt (less handle) in my hardinge 5c lathe. the collet has a measured .0002 run out with a ground carbide shaft. (just qualifying things here)

The bolt nose was so crooked i dont know that the bolt could be trued and still used.
 
#110
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

just to place things in perspective yesterday we had a customer look at having his rem 700 completly trued and new ground lug pinned then replace the bolt with a pacific bolt and sako extractor and new firing pin assembly the rifle was also going to get a new stock and match barrel so we said if he gave us the rifle as is for the same price that he would have paid we would supply him a lawton action

Basicaly all he was going to use from the whole servicable rifle was the action body and that needed half a days work minimum on it also would have opened the scope mounting screws to 8X40 and re drilled them down the centre line of the action.

We have ended up with an order for 2 complete rifles and he is selling his 2 remington rifles and will have to lay out less money and will end up with 2 rifles for less outlay worth more on the resale market as they are not worked remington actions they are a custom action.

I also can not see how some companies ask close to 5 grand US to get a factory remington rifle square the action up and true it use a remington trigger then stock it and barrel it and make it a special tacticle model why dont they use a stillar tac action, surgion, lawton pheonix and the list go's on and the rifles would be a lot better i9 can not see how pwople can sell these rifles.

There was a rifle we rebuilt a few weeks ago it was an old 30-06 we fitted a replacement rem stainless take out barrel boyds JRS stock scope rail and it was pillar bedded and gun Koted and trigger adjusted. the rifle was more than a factory new remington 700 with all the work and it still has a remington barrel no truing at all.

Now this rifle is owned by an old deer shooter and he has used it for close to 40 years the barrel was almost a smootbore. 2 of his friends borrowed the rifle and brought it up to us to get the work done and they paid for it. they are amased in how it feels and looks now but the point is this old timer wanted his old rifle and will never part with it so it is diferent. They call this guy the guru on sanbar shooting and stalking so it will be great to hear how he likes the job we did in cleaning his rifle for him.
 
#111
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Whats up with that? Remington seems to be able to mass produce rifles that shoot under 1MOA, and many times much better.

Seems the price difference between $700, and $3000 rifles only gets customers another 1/2 minute or so of accuracy. I know that 1/2 minute means the world. I'm just sayin</div></div>

My second custom rifle started out as a 700P that consistantly shot in the .4moa's with FGMM 175's......for about 15-20 rounds at a time. After that, the barrel had so much fouling in it the groups would open up over 1moa. I shot the rifle for 6 years like this and finally got tired of going through a bag of patches and a bottle of solvent every month. Now, I'm able to shoot 400-500 rounds before a noticeable loss of accuracy. At this point, there is hardly any fouling in the bore and it usually only takes 3 or 4 patches to clean it.
 
#112
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Lots of good information in this thread. The one thing that comes to my mind when discussing recutting the threads on an action is "why not" if you already have the action dialed in to true up the action face and lug abuttments? I don't know whether it would or wouldn't make a difference, but it would remove one more variable from the equation and the time to do it is when you already have it in the same set up. After you fit the barrel, take it to the range and find out something isn't exactly right isn't the time to decide that it might have been a good idea to recut the threads. Then you'd be back into not only having to dial in the reciever again, but also cutting the tennon off your barrel and doing a whole new chamber job. I'm not the most skilled machinist in the world, but I imagine that once everything is already set up in the lathe or VMC or whatever your machine of choice may be, switching over to a thread cutting tool and cutting the threads wouldn't take very long. Not doing so seems too much like half-assing it to me, regardless of what the results on paper tell.
 
#114
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Mine acually seems to shoot better fouled. I clean every hundred or two hundred rounds. All while still getting the same POI and group size. I feel I've been pretty lucky with rifles so far in life though. Cant seem to get one that wont shoot.



so, how deep do you generally find you need to cut to fix the threads? .015? I think one gentleman above said the worst he's seen was .017"

What if your tool isnt square to the piece? Then you havent cut a 60 degree thread, you made a slight buttress thread. How are you squaring it up so you know its pefectly perpandicular to your action raceway??

Any of you use more than one method? what if you used piloted tap kit like shown above, but kept a spider jig around incase you got one that was way off. Anyone here use one of those kits? The .010" over one seems like it would fix most any action. To be honest I dont even know which one I was shown at school. We talked about this a little in the begining of school and havent talked about it since. Like I kinda said, we're not working on rifles yet. We're doing our stocks, pistol work, shotgun work, and learning machining still.
Next year we get into real rifle work. I've just been watching the 2nd year guys a lot cause theyre doing the real fun stuff.


btw, wana talk about a hair pulling experience? Make an english walnut stock from a piece of wood. Woodcraft is not my thing and it's freakin hard. Put 50 hours into it then bump it on something and ding/scratch/chip it! I'll show some pics when its done in another month
 
#115
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Score High</div><div class="ubbcode-body">.. I have discovered that re-cutting the threads definitely makes a difference and it must be done right regardless of what ever method is used. ..
</div></div>

Could you quantify in $/moa or moa/$ or moa min/max effect from the process ?

A constant bitch I have about gun forums is esoteric benchrest rituals being mentioned for handloading or gunsmithing without the context of a frame of reference.

e.g. There I was in the 1990's truing actions, weighing brass, and still getting 6" groups.
I was pissed off when I found the real list for me to get a .45" 5 shot group did not include any "benchrest rituals". All that was needed was the "varmint rituals" short list.
 
#116
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Seems the price difference between $700, and $3000 rifles only gets customers another 1/2 minute or so of accuracy. I know that 1/2 minute means the world. I'm just sayin </div></div>

To make a record lap around LimeRock Park in a hatch back E Prod VW Rabbit takes about $12000 and 1m8s (last I checked)

Same lap in in a Formula Ford takes 52.5s and 100k

A formula Atlantic will do it in 46.5s and costs about $300k

The outright lap record was driven in a Group C car costing over $10M by the time the whole package is considered and the car ran 38.x Secs around the course

Do you notice the trend as things get faster? The same thing happens with rifles.
 
#117
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One set-up without the use of a steady rest to make all the truing cuts with two tool changes....</div></div>

<span style="font-weight: bold">Bush</span> you didn't say STEADY REST did you ? I'm over here having Flash backs
wink.gif


<span style="font-weight: bold">Mike
Tac Ops</span>
 
#118
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

One last time. (sigh)

AZ. . .you equate accuracy to a dollar sign. There's more to it buddy.

I can buy a Timex watch at Wally World for under 20 bucks. That watch will last me till I become worm food. It'll cost me less than 10 bucks a year to maintain it with a fresh battery.

If I shuffle on down to the mall I can buy a Seiko (I own a diver) for around $500.00. It'll wind itself so I never have to worry about a battery. It's close to being as accurate as the Timex but (mine anyway) is a little tempermental in hot weather. The overall presentation is much nicer and the weight on my wrist reminds me that quality items generally have a little heft to them-a little different feel.

Now I wander downtown to the high end jewelry stores and I see the Rolex line glaring at me with a taunting look that dares me to thaw out a Visa card. The fit/finish is perfect. There's no other way to describe it. The Oyster movement is spot on and I can be as subtle or as gaudy as my wallet/credit limit will tolerate.

Yet that little timex will keep up with all of them when I just want to know what time it is.

I think its been well established what the bulk of smiths here strive for.
 
#119
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One last time. (sigh)

AZ. . .you equate accuracy to a dollar sign. There's more to it buddy.

I can buy a Timex watch at Wally World for under 20 bucks. That watch will last me till I become worm food. It'll cost me less than 10 bucks a year to maintain it with a fresh battery.

If I shuffle on down to the mall I can buy a Seiko (I own a diver) for around $500.00. It'll wind itself so I never have to worry about a battery. It's close to being as accurate as the Timex but (mine anyway) is a little tempermental in hot weather. The overall presentation is much nicer and the weight on my wrist reminds me that quality items generally have a little heft to them-a little different feel.

Now I wander downtown to the high end jewelry stores and I see the Rolex line glaring at me with a taunting look that dares me to thaw out a Visa card. <span style="font-weight: bold">The fit/finish is perfect. There's no other way to describe it.</span> The Oyster movement is spot on and I can be as subtle or as gaudy as my wallet/credit limit will tolerate.

Yet that little timex will keep up with all of them when I just want to know what time it is.

I think its been well established what the bulk of smiths here strive for.</div></div>

C. Dixon,

I like the way you think unlike a few others on this thread...

I will be keeping an eye on you;)

<span style="font-weight: bold">Mike
Tac Ops</span>
 
#120
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Rolex's dont really keep good time......and they keep shity time if you equate it to the $ spent.

Im not going to touch the "Im keeping an eye on you " comment.

thats for you boys to work out...in private. LOL
 
#124
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">after all this, i don't think the original poster even came back?
laugh.gif
</div></div>

Yea, it went from high precision to low budget in a hurry. There was even a guest appearance from an internet commando
wink.gif
 
#125
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Experiment:

Take a bolt shroud of a remmy that shoots "ok".

Make a new one with a thread fit that actually feels like someone cared when they made it.

Then go shoot it again.

You might be surprised what you find. . . </div></div>

I've changed out bolt shrouds when putting in an aftermarket speedlock firing pin and I noticed something. Old firing pin assembly the bolt handle would kinda jump when the firing pin is dropped. New firing pin assembly the handle would barely move. This was with an empty chamber. Does this have anything to do with what you're talking about?
 
#126
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

A friend of mine is an avid, avid (obsessive) Br shooter. Through a series of conversations he shared some independent findings of others that suggests the thread fit between the shroud and the bolt has an influence as to how well a rifle shoots.

He qualified this statement a bit further by telling me of a little experiement he did with two of his Stolle actions.
He swapped fire controls from one to the the other. The "good" gun got better while the "exceptional" gun eroded to "really good". He swapped them back and things returned to their original state. Is it conclusive? Not really, but that coupled with similar stories by others compelled me to give it a try.

Here's what I did.
I machined a batch of my own enclosed shrouds that are in a range of different sizes so that I can pick from the pile until I find one that fits the way I want it to for a particular bolt. I have my own springs, cocking pieces, and strikers as well. It converts the action from cock on open/cock on close to a cock on open only as well.

DSC_0034-1.jpg


All I know is the few (less than five) that I've sold/used in rifles have all generated positive feedback. One in particular is another avid BR guy and he stated he has shot the smallest groups he's had yet with the rifle.

DSC_0043.jpg


So it's encouraging. Time will tell.

The "poor mans" experiment is to try wrapping a few turns of teflon tape around your bolt shroud. Try it and see what kind of results you get. Just be objective and diligent so that you get reasonable feedback.

Good luck.

C
 
#127
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">after all this, i don't think the original poster even came back?
laugh.gif
</div></div>

Yea, it went from high precision to low budget in a hurry. There was even a guest appearance from an internet commando
wink.gif
</div></div>

I'm a ninja damnit! Not a commando!
 
#128
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bsp212</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body">after all this, i don't think the original poster even came back?
laugh.gif
</div></div>

Yea, it went from high precision to low budget in a hurry. There was even a guest appearance from an internet commando
wink.gif
</div></div>

I'm a ninja damnit! Not a commando! </div></div>


LOL.......sorry, I wont make that mistake agian
 
#129
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

C.Dixon, whats the difference in group size between "exceptional", and "Really Good"?

and how do your shrouds/cocking pieces cock any differently? It rides the cam on open, then is held back by the trigger sear on close... yours is different?


and no need to *sigh* sir.
 
#130
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

If these posts were made by engineers or technicians that worked for me, making claims of improved groups with no data or math to back it up, I would be prodding them to do better.
 
#131
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

A good gun:

Say it holds a reliable half minute of elevation at the 1000 yard line.

Exceptional:

One that'll stay inside of a 1/3rd minute.

A good gun:

A BR gun that'll stay in the "ones" at 100 and in the "3's" at 200

Exceptional:

Shoots in the "O's" at 100 and under the "3's" at 200.

Five shot groups, several times over. making a claim of a 1/4" group from three shots is great if you go out the range and pull the trigger three times and then go home. It also helps to sells guns.

It doesn't win much though. With Olympic smallbore I tested the rifles with 50 round groups. five ten shot groups or ten five shot groups. Then they were scored and averaged.

That's how I conduct my accuracy testing because I want the full gamut of what is going to happen in a sustained rate of fire.

A palma rifle for instance has to shoot well enough to put 45 recorded rounds on paper. If you wanna win you better have an X count approaching 70% on a day with good weather.

A highpower match gun has to last for 80 recorded shots. You better be in the 780's if you want to win at Perry, Raton, or Phoenix.

Does this work with everything? Certainly not. A 300-378Wby built on a #3 sporter isn't going to be very impressive much past 7 rounds. The barrel is going to look like a cooling rod at Chernobyl by that time. So yes, there has to be some common sense.

A 308 tactical rifle though should work for much higher sustained rates of fire though. So should a magnum.

Your second question:

First, look at what a remington, whinchester, mauser, cz, etc. . . action does when you cycle the bolt. Pay specific attention to the cocking indicator.

You lift the bolt and the cocking indicator comes to the rear as it rides the cam on the bolt.

Now close it and pay attention. What else does it do? It compresses the striker spring more. How? Because the sear of the trigger has engaged the cocking piece before the bolt lugs have rotated onto the lug flats of the receiver. The lugs are riding the helical cams that lead up to the lug flats. This pulls the bolt forward and that compresses the spring more because the cocking piece is loaded against the trigger sear and can't move.

Cock on open, cock on closing. Nothing wrong with that, been that way for a zillion years. BUT there is another way and a lot of people like it.

The setup I make alters the timing so that it's only pulling the striker to the rear as the bolt as rotated out of battery.
You still get the .225-.255 of striker fall and you still have the .05" of pin protrusion.

Advantage? Some will argue none. BR guys like it though because it doesn't disturb the gun as much on the bags as you rotate into battery. It also gives the action a little more of a silky feel. Little things. . .

It's a fair question, so no. There's no "sigh" this time.
wink.gif


 
#132
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If these posts were made by engineers or technicians that worked for me, making claims of improved groups with no data or math to back it up, I would be prodding them to do better. </div></div>

"Rifle Accuracy Facts" by Harold R. Vaughn........read the book. All the facts / testing / results concerning the same that a man could want.

Facts are facts, <span style="font-weight: bold">PERIOD</span>
 
#133
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Hello Dixon,
You are absolutely correct on bolt timing. This is something we also do in our shop to all Remington 700 actions that we blueprint. Not only does it make it close silky smooth and not disturb the rifle on the bags but it just make sense. From the factory as a bolt goes forward first the striker engages the sear and then the bolt is cammed forward as it closes. It is much better for all the components if as the bolt is being cammed forward it gently places the striker assembly onto the sear. This allows for a more reliable lite trigger. Shilen triggers have a shorter sear bar and are timed like this from the factory. Then there is the cool part of it when you are standing in the shop or in a store fondling a rifle and yes we all fondle our rifles, we tend to judge them on how they feel. Every time we hand a customer his new rife built on a Remington 700 action first he closes the bolt, smiles and says "wow that feels so good". That's one of those little procedures that the customer can actually see and feel because for the most part the finest work done by a gunsmith is never see because it is on the inside.
 
#136
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

I understand the bolt is pulled forward by cams when closing, and since the trigger sear already has it(cocking piece), the firing pin spring is stretched even more(but just a little).

How did you gets your not to?
Did you move the cocking piece sear rearward the amount the bolt cams forward?
 
#139
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Me? On which question the one to you or HighScore?

Did you acheive it by moving the cocking piece sear location?

And do you know what he was saying about Shilen triggers? I ask because I'll probably be using quite a few Shilens... get a little discount I think
 
#144
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Define a "custom" rifle????
I of mine hit the concrete,the scope and side of the weapon are pretty scratched and the Paralax adj. has some "concrete stippling". I think its custom now !
 
#145
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AJ300MAG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your going to assemble custom rifles, but don't have a clue how the fire control system works.


PRICELESS... </div></div>

He's taking the time, making the effort and spending the money to learn. PRICELESS...
 
#146
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

I'll second that.

+1 on learning by asking and keeping a student mind.

Give the guy a break. Maybe some of the earlier posts were abrasive but I think the ultimate goal here is to gather information and improve; not sling insults.
 
#147
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Hello AZ,
We still do some fitting even with the Shilen trigger just not as much. The sear surface on the Shilen trigger is further forward than the Remington in relationship to the pinholes. Of course the pinholes in the action relate to the camming surface of the lugs in the action. every thing relates to something else. Just stop and think it thru. We do all of the fitting on the cocking piece I have a fixture that I can just drop in a mill vise that holds the cocking piece at the proper angle. Get some cocking pieces and experiment. Fortunately they are easy to get now days. A few years ago they were pretty scarce. You will mess a few of them up along the way but so what, school is not free. A race car driver really does not know how fast he can go around a corner until he actually wipes out.
 
#149
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Hey nice looking HOLDEN MONARO made right here in Australia lol.

On the cocking piece issue we have to adjust them on a lot of target rifles esoecialy when people place some crappy 2 stage artermarket triggers on them as the sear engagement is way off it is sompthing that realy helps the feel of a rifle and can make the rifles easier to shoot.

I know with Lawton trigger hangers some are set at their 0 point and there are others that set back to +.025" for the larger magnums they are harder to cam in but are specificaly designed that way to allow more striker pressure on large magnums like 338 lapua's and Chey Tacs so a bit extra can work in certain areas but for an accurate rifle built on a 30-06 or smaler an action that cams in without adding pressure to the fire controll by compressing the sprine more is a lot better to shoot and cycle especialy when trying to place accurate shots.

C,Dixon i would like to get a hold of a few of your cocking pieces and try them if possible?
 
#150
Re: Consensus on recutting remington 700 threads

Yesser. The Monaro is (was) a neat piece. Was always fun being asked what year my Grand Prix was. . . someone once asked me if it was a shelby mustang too.

Bill, I'm not a sponsor here and I've been warned once already by the moderators. I was apparently dancing on a fine line by showing some examples of my bedding/stock work. Please avoid the open forum regarding business matters.

Cheers.

PS. Worked with a lot of you guys in Iraq. Great folks!
 
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