I'm new to long range shooting and I'm currently shooting a Rem 700 in 308 w/24" factory barrel(26"w/muzzle break). Nobody likes shooting next to me and I take it off for competition , but then the recoil is bothering me. So, I was looking to go to a 223 to lessen the recoil. I need to work on my fundamentals and form and I thought going to a 223 might help (and be cheaper to shoot) while doing so. the Savage looks like an accurate gun right out of the box but I was wondering, what is the first thing guys change or customize and why? I'm trying to get an idea of end cost to have a competitive rifle for 600yds in 223cal. Or should I start with an AR and build a gun? I was trying to stay around the $2,000 budget but if that won't get me there then I guess I will talk to Mark at SAC and have him do a build.
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considering the Savage 12f/tr 223...need input.
- Thread starter edwcig
- Start date
Quick/easy route:
Savage 12FV or 11 Hog Hunter in 223, dropped into the aftermarket stock of your choice (A2 Medalist is the best budget option IMO).
Both rifles are 1:9, will shoot 75/77 HPBT well, and have Accutriggers.
Add 20MOA base, rings and optic and go shoot!
I had a 12FV in A2 Medalist stock and with 75gr Steel match ammo shot consistent sub-MOA groups @ 100yd and easily made hits on 8" steel at 650. With 24.0gr Varget and 75gr HPBT handloads, same rifle was consistently 5 shots <1" @ 200yd.
If down the road you wanna shoot higher BC bullets...sell the factory tube for 100-150 and replace it with a 1:7 or 1:8 Criterion, Shilen, or McGowen.
Savage 12FV or 11 Hog Hunter in 223, dropped into the aftermarket stock of your choice (A2 Medalist is the best budget option IMO).
Both rifles are 1:9, will shoot 75/77 HPBT well, and have Accutriggers.
Add 20MOA base, rings and optic and go shoot!
I had a 12FV in A2 Medalist stock and with 75gr Steel match ammo shot consistent sub-MOA groups @ 100yd and easily made hits on 8" steel at 650. With 24.0gr Varget and 75gr HPBT handloads, same rifle was consistently 5 shots <1" @ 200yd.
If down the road you wanna shoot higher BC bullets...sell the factory tube for 100-150 and replace it with a 1:7 or 1:8 Criterion, Shilen, or McGowen.
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+1 on the Savage FV. I cut mine down to 20" to offset the length of my TBAC & it shoots really well. I bedded it in a B&C medalist & it seems to like the 68gr Hornady BTHP. It is a great set up for not much $ respectively.
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Ditto on Savage. I have a Savage 12bvss I'm shooting to 500 yards. 69 gr SMK & 25.4 varget same accuracy as boilerup-it's accurate. I have a Sightron III 6x24x50lrmoa - with a 0 moa base (don't need the 20 moa base as I'm only going to ~ 600 yards and the sightron has 100 min of travel). Haven't shot the 75 grains as the 69 are doing well. It's in the factory wood laminate stock. Total price is under 2k for rifle and scope.
I have a LRPV in .223, right hand, left feed. It took a little getting used to but I REALLY like the left feed now. I might consider the left feed, right eject dual port option.
It came with a nice H-S Precision stock. Only needed to add a Karsten cheek rest.
26" barrel, 1 in 9 twist which was all they offered at the time. I'd get the faster 1 in 7 option that's available now.
The stock Target trigger is fine and is a step up from the Accu, and is adjustable down to 6oz. I'm fine at 12oz.
The F/TR gets you a 30" 1 in 7 barrel, laminated stock with cheek rest. Same trigger and action but in right feed /eject only.
The LRPV has a lot of action options if you don't need the 30” tube.
It came with a nice H-S Precision stock. Only needed to add a Karsten cheek rest.
26" barrel, 1 in 9 twist which was all they offered at the time. I'd get the faster 1 in 7 option that's available now.
The stock Target trigger is fine and is a step up from the Accu, and is adjustable down to 6oz. I'm fine at 12oz.
The F/TR gets you a 30" 1 in 7 barrel, laminated stock with cheek rest. Same trigger and action but in right feed /eject only.
The LRPV has a lot of action options if you don't need the 30” tube.
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Go with the 1:7 or 1:8 twist barrel, since the 80 grain bullets from Sierra, Nosler, Hornady, or Berger will go to 1,000 yards. The Savage barrel is plenty accurate, and can be more accurate after it is diamond-lapped. If your action is not bedded, get that done, too. The main reasons to lap are to by-pass barrel break-in and make the rifle easier to clean, but it also (almost always) makes the barrel more accurate. Savage barrels are not diamond lapped from the factory. (Kriegers are diamond lapped at the factory.) My Savage went from 0.6" 5 shot groups at 100 yds. to 0.27" groups (more than one). The main reason for bedding is to maintain point of impact from year to year, and after removing the action from the stock, but it usually (almost always) makes the rifle more accurate as well.
