• HideTV Updates Coming Monday

    HideTV will be down on Monday for updates. We'll let you all know as soon as it's back up and message @alexj-12 with any questions!

  • Win an RIX Storm S3 Thermal Imaging Scope!

    To enter, all you need to do is add an image of yourself at the range below! Subscribers get more entries, check out the plans below for a better chance of winning!

    Join the contest Subscribe

Cosmetic Barrel Fluting - "Pins-n-Needles"

TXBRASS

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 23, 2009
402
1
45
Shiner, TEXAS
Ran across this cosmetic barrel fluting option amongst a hand-full of others....

Called "pins-n-needles"...

Would look "unique", but would there be any negative you could see to using this pattern...

Probably not gonna spend the extra $180, but just curious as to your thoughts....



 
Bottom photo actually looks like it would be sharp. Pretty neat, but it's not for me. I do like traditional fluting for barrels though.

I can't speak to whether it would negatively impact the barrel....
 
Traditional fluting reduces weight while still keeping most of the strength of the profile intact. With the pattern shown, the barrel will have the same stiffness as an un-fluted barrel with a diameter equal to the groove depth of the pattern shown. In other words, it may look cool, but it is actually adding weight to a similar un-fluted profile - the opposite of the traditional fluting process.
 
I handled a couple of Marty's barrels in the "pins & needles" when I picked my AR barrel up about a month ago. It wasn't as "sharp" as I expected it. It is certainly not my cup of tea, but interesting nonetheless.

CMH....could you please elaborate on your "adding" weight to the barrel. I guess I am not following that one. I don't understand how removing ANY material from the cross-section of any contour would weigh more than that of an un-altered identical contour.
 
Vmaxed - this barrel no longer has the resistance to flexing as the original diameter barrel (Presumably the diameter of the high points of the flats in picture one or the points in picture 2). It now has a very similar resistance to bending as a straight barrel that is the same diameter as the minimum diameter of the altered barrel - i.e. the diameter at the grooves in the pictures above. Obviously weight of straight barrel of groove diameter<weight of barrel profiled as above<weight of straight barrel of same diameter as flats or points. However, resistance to bending goes like this: Straight barrel with groove diameter = profile(s) shown above< points/flats straight profile. So, all material above the groove diameter in this pattern is not really adding to bending resistance, and as such is adding weight without resistance.
 
I think if there is still a continuous length of the barrel that hasn't been cut, the strength stays in the barrel. With the flutes above, the only piece that is continuous is the deepest part of the groove. Essentially making it a small diameter barrel with "studs"

There was a gentleman on here a while back that had a Beanland built 308 in a Whiskey 3 chassis. He had the same type of fluting...maybe he can chime in on the actual effect it had on the barrel?

It definitely looks cool though....
 
I think it's ugly! But as far as "adding weight" that is not possible. You are removing material from the barrel.
The rigidity may come down a touch but its still a steel tube. I would be more worried about the harmonics changing from the pattern of the fluting at that point. I dont think the affects would be negative but barrel properties have changed some for sure.
 
What he means is that the high points of the fluting are not continuous, which is necessary for one to have the stiffness of a thicker barrel with the lighter weight of a smaller barrel. Since the fluting has the effect of leaving studs on the barrel, but not retaining the stiffness of the original diameter like normal fluting, then you are basically running a thinner barrel with cosmetic studs "added."

More surface area to cool, I guess, though.

Looks cool, for sure.
 
There is a guy here that has had that done. Can't remember his name off hand, but I'm pretty sure is was a burnt bronze Badger barreled action in a black KRG Whiskey3 chassis.
 
Back in the machinist world that is called "knurling" though I'm guessing they cut it rather than rolling it. As others noted it won't increase the stiffness or give a weight advantage for the stiffness it has. Might help with cooling. Springfield Arsenal used a similar pattern on the Benet-Mercie machine rifles they built back in the early 1900's. The front half of the barrel was knurled and the back half was finned. Cooled ok. Not sure why the did the knurling though....maybe to make it easier to remove the barrel for barrel changes? I guess if you like that sort of thing its great. Doesn't do anything for me though....I'll keep em round.

Frank
 
Well, it's definately different! I wonder how you would wipe the thing down, looks like a cleaning rag would catch on all the sharp corners? I guess you could also use it as a wood rasp in a pinch. Maybe I'm just a traditionalist but I'm missing the upside (except it certainly would be an attention getter.) Aside from the looks, do they claim other benefits?
 
Last edited:
Looks a little out of place to me personally, but it is definitely unique. I'm no expert on barrel harmonics and such, so I don't know how it would effect that. If you feel it's $180 worth of cool, then go for it. First I'd look at what trigger you're going to use. If it's a Timney instead of a Jewel, then I'd apply the extra $$$ to the Jewel. If you do go with it though, I say it's a must that you get the bolt done to match.
 
Traditional fluting reduces weight while still keeping most of the strength of the profile intact. With the pattern shown, the barrel will have the same stiffness as an un-fluted barrel with a diameter equal to the groove depth of the pattern shown. In other words, it may look cool, but it is actually adding weight to a similar un-fluted profile - the opposite of the traditional fluting process.
What he said.
I agree, the weight to stiffness ratio goes up. Not what fluting is for. It does however provide a lot off cooling area.
 
I'll agree with Accuracy Internationals stance on fluting.
"We no longer flute barrels. While it may cause barrels to cool faster, our research shows it causes barrels to heat up unevenly which leads to inaccuracy".

(Paraphrased from a article with Accuracy International in sniper magazine)
 
My Beanland built .260 is fluted like the bottom pic... can't say it has any affect on accuracy (at least I haven't seen any with or without my TBAC can).... The top fluting job looks like an eye sore to me. Perhaps I had a revised fluting job done to my build...
 
My Beanland built .260 with said barrel work....
15c3o8.jpg

e0dus.jpg

flv9l.jpg
 
Vmaxed - this barrel no longer has the resistance to flexing as the original diameter barrel (Presumably the diameter of the high points of the flats in picture one or the points in picture 2). It now has a very similar resistance to bending as a straight barrel that is the same diameter as the minimum diameter of the altered barrel...

Yup, and it's U-G-L-Y too!