Gunsmithing crowning question

#3
Re: crowning question

The crown is the last contact the barrel has with the bullet, it must release it evenly. 11deg. is common among target shooters. The tactical smiths seem to do a 90 deg recessed style. I would say you need a simple 90 deg. since you will not be able to ding it on something.
 
#5
Re: crowning question

The crown of a barrel, regardless of the firearm it is a part of, is one of many keys to getting the best possible accuracy. Whether you are talking about a "target" type crown (of any degree whether it be 10, 11, etc.) or a stepped/recessed crown...the theory is the same. You want the bullet and the gases around the base of the bullet to escape the barrel evenly. A poorly cut or damaged crown can cause accuracy/consistency problems with any firearm.
 
#7
Re: crowning question

You'll want a cutter with a pilot. Do you have or have access to a lathe? Cutting even slightly out of square with the bore will yield bad results. Why is it you want to recrown an MSG90? Just curious.
 
#8
Re: crowning question

Yeah, this isn't something you want to do by hand with some Home Depot countersink. Send it to a smith and have them crown it right. A countersink will also swage a bit of metal into the crown area causing some unevenness. A crowning tool will cut metal outward from the bore, that is important
 
#9
Re: crowning question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kenda</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You'll want a cutter with a pilot. Do you have or have access to a lathe? Cutting even slightly out of square with the bore will yield bad results. Why is it you want to recrown an MSG90? Just curious. </div></div>

when i had gander mountain thread my barrel ( didnt want to regear the engine lathe at the shop to thread this on my own) they threaded the barrel but didnt crown the end... well i wasnt hip to all this back when i did the build, all the barrel work that is... so when i read about crowning i looked at my barrel and it was dead square... so i nicked it with a counter sink slightly to take off the burr.

i will eventually this month or next be sinking a allot of money into dies and presses trimmers and all that stuff for better hand loads and though today... all that work only to be unhappy because of my barrels crown... so now i want to make sure its done right...
 
#10
Re: crowning question

I've never had any problems using the hand crowning tool from Brownells. I've used it on my 1911 and it definitely helped. I also put an 11degree crown on a friends Marlin 336 in.35whelen and it shot a hell of a lot better.
 
#11
Re: crowning question

Ok, that explains it. You can definetly handle it with a simple hand turned crown cutter. The 11 degree tool will make short work of any burrs or small dings, and a 90 deg will too but will take a few more turns. The right tool is going to set you back in the area of $60-90. Brownells shows the 11 deg cutter at $41 (dealer cost) and the pilots are $21 (you can make your own handle). Good luck!
 
#13
Re: crowning question

So how many more excuses can you come up with as a reason you cant shoot worth a shit?

First it was your rifle was too heavy, then it was your scope doesnt have enough magnification, now its the crown.

Just face it .... you suck.
 
#14
Re: crowning question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Outsy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So how many more excuses can you come up with as a reason you cant shoot worth a shit?

First it was your rifle was too heavy, then it was your scope doesnt have enough magnification, now its the crown.

Just face it .... you suck. </div></div>

first off i dont recall saying i was a marine sniper... second i said the rifle is pretty heavy and its hard to carry... 3ed i feel my scope doesnt have enough magnification at 200 yards at 100 it seems alright ok.. and 4th iam not saying my crown is messing with my accuracy iam saying i would like to have all my i's and t's crossed hence my buying some badly needed reloading equipment.

with poor equipment expect poor results... sure i get frustrated... not iam not complaining about it.

I am trying to learn more and i dont think that deserves flaming
 
#17
Re: crowning question

a member here ( not going to say who ) is going to lend me his 11 degree crowning tool, thank god. that rocks so i will actually have a "professional" crown on my muzzle, one more step closer finishing this rifle, all i need now are new optics and my forward assist button
 
#18
Re: crowning question

If you're referring to a 'hand operated' 11 degree crowning tool with a solid pilot please show us pics of the chatter marks and top of lands of rifling after you are done!!!! How do I know you ask? Because I own one and have 'tried' to get a clean descent crown with no luck. This experience because I was lazy and bought one to eliminate barrel removal and lathe setup to do it right.

Never ceases to amaze me as to how stubborn some people are! They ask for advice and when it isn't what they want to hear they then argue etc. This crowning issue and related arguements have come up several times over the yrs and it always boils down to CHEAP vs. correct method! Will it shoot? Yes. Will it shoot better? Maybe! Depends on how bad it was.

If chatter marks don't bother you you're good to go. If a burr right at the edge of lands and grooves(right where a burr isn't wanted) is caused from metal rolling over and not being completely cut doesn't bother you then you're ok! Providing of course you can get the pilot out of the bore
smile.gif
If a chip doesn't end up between land and pilot and leaves a nice gouge and that don't bother you you might be ok! None of this happens using a proper lathe/bit setup and cutting from bore out. It might using a pilot in the bore and turning by hand or with an electric drill(a cheap geterrrr done in a hurry method).

Good luck. Remember most here were trying to offer the help and info you originally asked for!!!!!!

Respectfully,
Dennis
 
#19
Re: crowning question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: black_ump</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...all i need now are new optics <span style="text-decoration: underline">and my forward assist button</span> </div></div>

Gordon Miller (HKSpecialiststore.com) has just the button assemblies for $175 if that's all you need, but if you need the housing and all, it's going to cost you an arm and a leg (maybe a testicle too) if you buy HK/German original parts. Adam at HKParts.net has US-made MSG/PSG forward assist assemblies (complete units) for $350 (still not cheap, but beggars can't be chosers)!
 
#20
Re: crowning question

i have the housing all welded on just need the button and inner guts.

as far as chatter and chips, maybe we can get rid of the chatter by using anchor lube, ill defiantly look into it befor i use the tool if the tool looks like it will f*c* up my bore then ill go to a place and rent time on the lathe for a few and do it. I would hate to have to press the barrel out and then back in but if thats what has to be done then ill do it
 
#22
Re: crowning question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GardDog223</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: black_ump</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> 3ed </div></div>

I lol'd </div></div>

I didnt even catch that at first, I am glad you pointed it out so I could go back and laugh at him some more.
 
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