Custom Bolt Action Build at Home?

[MIROPHAN]

I have been lurking for a little while and have decided to reach out for some advice. I have a desire to build a long-range rifle for hunting and paper/steel. I will primarily shoot at the range out to 600 yards or so. Hunting will range from deer sized game to varmints. I do not need advice on calibers, as there are way too many threads on those subjects. However, I do want advice on the construction of the gun. With today’s custom actions that allow for shouldered prefit barrels, CNC machined stocks to barrel profiles, consistent bottom metal, drop in triggers…: why do I need a gun smith to assemble the rifle? Am I missing something about how consistent and relatively interchangeable the parts are?

I am considering a build of the following:

Big Horn Origin SA LH
Bartlein barrel-have not decided on the shop for the shouldered barrel.
AG Composites Visigoth Stock
Grayboe DBM
Timney Trigger

I don’t want to turn this into a debate on calibers. I have purposely did not list the calibers I am considering. I am trying to figure out if I am missing something about why I must have gunsmith to put all of these pieces together.

I did do some homework on the site, but I did not find a thread to answer these questions.

 

[Dynowhite]

I built my Impact at home and it's working out exactly how I imagined it. Fantastic! I have a small workbench, a PMA Barrel Vise, an action wrench and a torque wrench. My action sits in a foundation stock that doesn't require bedding, but I believe you would need to bed the AG Stock. I hope someone more knowledgable than I will step in with an answer there. If you're willing to try that there are videos on youtube.

I'm having a rifle built by a gunsmith right now because it needs to be chambered, threaded and bedded. There's lots of things you can do without sending it off to a gunsmith nowadays, but they have years of knowledge to diagnose and solve problems that I don't have the time or even skillset to learn.

 

[A&8's]

People said/say the same regarding “building” an AR. And yet there’s a huge difference in a rifle that is actually “built” by a riflesmith vs assembled in a garage.

 

[b6graham]

running a chassis or manners mini chassis, minimal reason to need a smith. but if you're gonna get into fitting DBM and bedding and such which i assume you are then having a smith may be nice. same with timing trigger to action

as far as screwing on barrel, timing a self timing brake. scope etc. that's easy mode.

 

[Bertoli888]

"why do I need a gun smith to assemble the rifle? " Good gunsmith has the experience of having done hundreds of them and making many mistakes along the way. it's the little details that adds up to a great shooting rifle. I am not saying you are incapable but the percentages are not with the everyday normal person. Those percentages lessen if you have great mechanical and machinist skills.
My opinions are that great gunsmiths are NOT paid enough for their talents!

 

[MIROPHAN]

"why do I need a gun smith to assemble the rifle? " Good gunsmith has the experience of having done hundreds of them and making many mistakes along the way. it's the little details that adds up to a great shooting rifle. I am not saying you are incapable but the percentages are not with the everyday normal person. Those percentages lessen if you have great mechanical and machinist skills.
My opinions are that great gunsmiths are NOT paid enough for their talents!

I came across a little more condescending to gunsmiths than I intended. I mainly want to do much of the work myself just for the fun of it and to give myself and kids something to build.. Realistically, I will be using a gunsmith/machinist for parts of the build. I agree that a gunsmith knows what works, does not work, and how to do it. I mainly was asking the question to find out if I was missing something that could not be overcome by relatively normal tools at home.

 

[snipersteve]

Following. I too am in the process of a DIY precision rifle build. I too have one out being built for me (300PRC) but it does seem that the Remington 700 platform has gotten to the point of being like a Glock/AR 15 in that parts are so precise they're interchangeable which makes for a relatively easy DIY if you're using the right parts.

 

[tsu45]

I would recommend getting the trigger ahead of the action and sending it into Bighorn to time it to the action.

 

[drwood96]

With today components, you can easily get a 1/2 minute rifles building it yourself. A great smith will give you a 1/4 rifles.

If you’re using chassis, prefit barrel, and the right tools then do it yourself. Took me only 30 minute to assemble my rifle. Must of that time was setting the head space. Using nothing but shouldered prefits going foward.

 

[Franko]

Having a gunsmith means that you have someone to turn to if your build has issues.

 

[b6graham]

Having a gunsmith means that you have someone to turn to if your build has issues.

and picking a reliable one means theyll make it right too

 

[Shutrmgavin]

In my case I don't have any local access to a good gun smith as I live in Florida and there's no gun culture in most of the state besides handguns and $200 AR-15's and hunting stuff.

I have had good success assembling at home, i.e, screwing on a barrel and putting it in a chassis. Done it 3 times now, and have two very accurate guns. The third is not accurate but I proved it's not my assembly, but the barrel or pickiness of the round (224 valk). I recommend either a Big Horn or Savage action as I don't have any technical skills at all and it was still pretty easy. I don't even know what timing a trigger to an action means LOL. I put a trigger tech in my big horn and it goes boom, crisply. The savage barrel is a bison gun works, the two big horn barrels were a criterion from NSS and a PVA shouldered prefit I got on a sale.

 

[D2junky]

I have several builds at home I’ve done myself on Bighorn and ARC actions; shouldered, Barloc, and Savage style nut. Some in mini chassis, some I’ve bedded myself. I don’t have a single one that doesn’t shoot right with my LRI builds. Don’t get me wrong, I still see the value of a good smith, but I’d not be afraid of tackling the project because it won’t shoot as good as a gun built by a big smith.

 

[MIROPHAN]

Thank you everyone for the comments. I am still a couple of months out from starting any kind of build. Before proceeding on in ordering anything, I wanted to ask the question to see if I was missing anything. For those in the use the smith camp, I have what I consider a good smith not far from me, who very likely will be willing to help me out if I run into an issue. His primary business is not smithing (if that is a word) so I am not taking food off of his table.

 

[jackinfl]

In my case I don't have any local access to a good gun smith as I live in Florida and there's no gun culture in most of the state besides handguns and $200 AR-15's and hunting stuff.

I have had good success assembling at home, i.e, screwing on a barrel and putting it in a chassis. Done it 3 times now, and have two very accurate guns. The third is not accurate but I proved it's not my assembly, but the barrel or pickiness of the round (224 valk). I recommend either a Big Horn or Savage action as I don't have any technical skills at all and it was still pretty easy. I don't even know what timing a trigger to an action means LOL. I put a trigger tech in my big horn and it goes boom, crisply. The savage barrel is a bison gun works, the two big horn barrels were a criterion from NSS and a PVA shouldered prefit I got on a sale.

Shutmrgavin. I don't know where you are in Florida, and what you consider local. But in my opinion and experience you are wrong. There are several SOLID Precision rifle gunsmiths in Florida. Altus, GCP rifles, English rifles, PSS in Daytona.

I am a big horn Origin fan and have both gunsmith chambered builds as well as prefit shouldered. I like the ability to do my own assembly.

As far as your statement about no gun culture, there are several locations all over the state that have PRS style matches and several places that do F class type matches.

Best of luck to you. If you need direct help finding the matches or ranges hit me up. Always glad to help another shooter.

Jack

 

[SporterII]

Don’t shy away.
Gunsmith in Daytona and moral support Ft Laud. Here

 

[Mxridr]

I run Bighorn tl3 and pva shouldered barrel. Shoots in the same hole. It is a very simple process. You will have a very accurate gun.

 

[DangerRanger]

All my custom guns have been built 2k+ miles from me. If you just want to do it to do it go for it, but it’s not hard to ship stuff.

 

[gac700]

Tools and components will cost more that going custom. There are many differences between the final rifles. The biggest differences are the quality of the build, fit, finish, resale value, and perhaps accuracy. Timing comes into play because of waiting on parts.

There is no way a home build can equal a GA or LRI custom built rifle.

I spent more for a home build that still has a Remington trigger and blued/stainless finishes. I could figure out how to Cerekote, but that would require more time, effort, and expense. I will buy a Trigger Tech which only adds to the expenses.

I’m not saying you can’t build quality rifles at home. After several builds the tooling cost would go down. my gun shoots well, but I would call it custom, or quality - assembled is a good description.

At the end of the day I wish I had gone custom. I’ve been fortunate enough to to visit GA, Kelby, and LRI, (others) along with attending SHOT and NRA shows.

it is tough to beat custom once you do the math. I read build at home all the time on SH and my first thought is BS.

My vote is buy, not build.

 

[Crews]

I vote try it, with the following caveats:

1. get Bighorn to time your trigger to your action
2. use a chassis that’s easier to drop a barreled action into without worrying about bedding or fitting bottom metal
3. Rent go gauge to verify headspace

If you’ve got a reasonable amount of mechanical aptitude and you do those three things, your chances of success would be very high in my opinion.

 

[steve123]

To have a top of the line custom build by a top name Smith you're looking at $4000 or more. If that much money isn't a burden then that's one thing, it would take some of us 2 years to pay that off.

I bought a nice used custom 10 years ago which I sold for $100 less than what I had into it minus 5 barrels. This could be another option.

A few years ago I bought a new top tier action and had a Smith do the chambering and muzzle brake threading. That cost me almost $800 including the barrel. Bought the chassis and a TT trigger which a child could install,
For this current barrel I did the rest myself with a prefit. It turned out great. Well except for feeding 6mmBR which took a few try's to nail down the feeding by shortening the front of the lips on the magazine and changing the shape of the lips a little bit.

I'm just going to stay with prefits as much as possible because it saves me about $350 every time I need a new barrel.

 

[Steel head]

I put my rifle together at home.
Two issues you might find.
Trigger fit up and stock/bottom metal fit/bedding.

Beyond that it should be easy.

I got lucky with my trigger and used a chassis so no bedding or bottom metal issues

 

[Another Casual]

I put together two origins in my basement and both shoot great. If you have a decent amount of mechanical aptitude, I don't see an issue. It isn't as easy as an AR, but take your time and watch videos etc and you'll be fine. You may be tinkering with some things, as above. DBM may need fitting, I had to sand open the cut out of the bolt handle and the barrel channel on the stock. Nothing crazy, but if you're afraid to take sand paper or a file to something it's intimidating. I already had a barrel vise and used Savage prefits with the PVA but that takes a standard box wrench. Figure $65 if you want to buy go and no go gauges, maybe $80-$100 for a barrel vise. If you enjoy a project then go for it. It likely won't be your last.

 

[Estes640]

Shutmrgavin. I don't know where you are in Florida, and what you consider local. But in my opinion and experience you are wrong. There are several SOLID Precision rifle gunsmiths in Florida. Altus, GCP rifles, English rifles, PSS in Daytona.

I am a big horn Origin fan and have both gunsmith chambered builds as well as prefit shouldered. I like the ability to do my own assembly.

As far as your statement about no gun culture, there are several locations all over the state that have PRS style matches and several places that do F class type matches.

Best of luck to you. If you need direct help finding the matches or ranges hit me up. Always glad to help another shooter.

Jack

I’ll also add Joe Walls of exodus rifles in Jacksonville.

 

[b6graham]

Tools and components will cost more that going custom. There are many differences between the final rifles. The biggest differences are the quality of the build, fit, finish, resale value, and perhaps accuracy. Timing comes into play because of waiting on parts.

There is no way a home build can equal a GA or LRI custom built rifle.

I spent more for a home build that still has a Remington trigger and blued/stainless finishes. I could figure out how to Cerekote, but that would require more time, effort, and expense. I will buy a Trigger Tech which only adds to the expenses.

I’m not saying you can’t build quality rifles at home. After several builds the tooling cost would go down. my gun shoots well, but I would call it custom, or quality - assembled is a good description.

At the end of the day I wish I had gone custom. I’ve been fortunate enough to to visit GA, Kelby, and LRI, (others) along with attending SHOT and NRA shows.

it is tough to beat custom once you do the math. I read build at home all the time on SH and my first thought is BS.

My vote is buy, not build.

you should qualify this, because most of what you're saying may have been the case 5 or 10 years ago but definitely isn't true today

very few tools are needed to assemble a hammer today especially if using a chassis or stock with a minichassis and an action worth a damn, which not includes tikka plus most of the common customs

 

[Franko]

I see assembling your own gun as cheaper than buying a complete build. The problem is that if things don't go well you could end up spending away any savings and then some...

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

you should qualify this, because most of what you're saying may have been the case 5 or 10 years ago but definitely isn't true today

very few tools are needed to assemble a hammer today especially if using a chassis or stock with a minichassis and an action worth a damn, which not includes tikka plus most of the common customs

Exactly. A barrel vise can be had for less than $75 and an action wrench isn't that much more.

Find someone to rent or loan you the head space gauges and you're almost set.

 

[danbar54]

Tools and components will cost more that going custom. There are many differences between the final rifles. The biggest differences are the quality of the build, fit, finish, resale value, and perhaps accuracy. Timing comes into play because of waiting on parts.

There is no way a home build can equal a GA or LRI custom built rifle.

I spent more for a home build that still has a Remington trigger and blued/stainless finishes. I could figure out how to Cerekote, but that would require more time, effort, and expense. I will buy a Trigger Tech which only adds to the expenses.

I’m not saying you can’t build quality rifles at home. After several builds the tooling cost would go down. my gun shoots well, but I would call it custom, or quality - assembled is a good description.

At the end of the day I wish I had gone custom. I’ve been fortunate enough to to visit GA, Kelby, and LRI, (others) along with attending SHOT and NRA shows.

it is tough to beat custom once you do the math. I read build at home all the time on SH and my first thought is BS.

My vote is buy, not build.

I kinda' agree since I am a shooter and not a builder, at least not rifles. I have a Bergara LRP Elite 6.5CM and would like either a 6.5PRC or a .223 (I know, very different types) with a MDT ACC chassis, TriggerTech Diamond trigger, barrel comparable to the Bergara. I live in NJ and really can't find a good builder locally and was wondering is it worth to pulse Bergara or are there good builders you could recommend that would accommodate my requests? Thanks

 

[b6graham]

I kinda' agree since I am a shooter and not a builder, at least not rifles. I have a Bergara LRP Elite 6.5CM and would like either a 6.5PRC or a .223 (I know, very different types) with a MDT ACC chassis, TriggerTech Diamond trigger, barrel comparable to the Bergara. I live in NJ and really can't find a good builder locally and was wondering is it worth to pulse Bergara or are there good builders you could recommend that would accommodate my requests? Thanks

Altus, Mile High, LRI, Exodus, WTO, Bugholes, shit the list goes on and on and on

 

[chevy_man]

Are you familiar with how they work, what parts interface with each other, and how to adjust each individual piece?


Unlike a "mil-spec" AR where there are tolerance designed for mass production and fitment, bolt guns generally need a little tweaking.

Timing the trigger, making sure the sear is holding the striker with enough overlap, and feeding are the main things I've seen frustrate people.

A full chassis is the way to go unless you're comfortable bedding and doing final inletting on a stock.

I'm lucky enough to have a good smith that I can work with. But I haven't run into any issues with my builds. I have seen plenty of half-assed looking dbm installs sitting in his shop waiting to get fixed because they tried to inlet with a Dremel instead of a mill.

 

[wade2big]

Its all plug and play.

Buy an action, prefit barrel, trigger, and a stock w/ bottom metal or a chassis. Screw everything together and shoot. It is that easy. Stocks don’t need bedding and triggers dont need timing unless you have a nucleus or apparently an origin. This has been my experiences so far.

 

[b6graham]

Its all plug and play.

Buy an action, prefit barrel, trigger, and a stock w/ bottom metal or a chassis. Screw everything together and shoot. It is that easy. Stocks don’t need bedding and triggers dont need timing unless you have a nucleus or apparently an origin. This has been my experiences so far.

or TL3 or archimedes
or an impact with hanger
or you run a BnA trigger

you do know enough to be dangerous

 

[wade2big]

or TL3 or archimedes
or an impact with hanger
or you run a BnA trigger

you do know enough to be dangerous

Well buy something that works without having to diddle with it.

 

[b6graham]

Well buy something that works without having to diddle with it.

maybe if you diddle'd with yours it would feel better?

with the MASSIVE array of shit we have. stack is a real thing. and being safe with everything is a concern since everyone just plugs and plays

 

[wade2big]

maybe if you diddle'd with yours it would feel better?

with the MASSIVE array of shit we have. stack is a real thing. and being safe with everything is a concern since everyone just plugs and plays

Of course there is a chance of things needing a little help. The AR guys found that out quick enough. It just seems overstated in this thread. It is plug and play for the most part. Of course pay attention. Keeping your head out your ass is always sound advice.

 

[Precisiondada]

I stumbled across a similar decision. I ended up building and don’t regret it. Used a Bighorn Origin and had them time it to a TT Diamond I sent them. Got the barrel from Altus, and have a Manners w/ mini chassis.

My recommendation is to build, if for nothing else then the experience. Get yourself a torque wrench (I choose the Borka kit) and some anti-seize and you’ll be all set. That being said, if I had gone a route that required bedding I would 100% send it to a smith.

 

[Another Casual]

The trigger timing thing is over stated. If you have some cock on close and it bothers you then you can send the action and trigger to have it done or do it yourself. As above, do a little research, ask some questions and if you like a project just go for it.

 

[gac700]

 

[b6graham]

View attachment 7172907

Bighorn Origin $825
TT Special $175
KRG Bravo $400
Atlas CAL and Clamp $300
A419 Brake $200
Keystone/PVA prefit $500
Viper vice and action wrench $150

$2450

With about $200 in savings to be had in the PX. At least. For a full custom hammer

 

[gac700]

So call it $3200, less $635 in tools and extra mags = $2565. Low cost PTG 700 action, X-Mark trigger, no coating. I did add a Badger Ordnance bolt knob and would like to add a Trigger Tech.

You’ll creep up on custom pricing fairly quick.

 

[MIROPHAN]

Thank you for the comments. I mainly wanted to find out if there was something that I did not understand that I might get myself into. The trigger timing issue is probably the best example of a relatively unknown issue to me at least.

After doing a little research on-line, I am not sure how many people actually fool with timing a trigger. I state this as the only video I found was in reference to a BAT action that had different inserts to adjust trigger timing. I also have yet to see anyone giving advice to a problem with a gun either piercing primers or mis-fires to be related to trigger timing. Both of which could be a result of improper trigger timing; as I understand the issue. In fact, I found at least one or two threads that started off on trigger timing, but ended up talking about the camming action upon initial bolt lift, extraction, and how it relates to the bolt handle vs the video on how to set the trigger timing on the BAT action. I also did not see anything in the instructions of the Timney trigger that I just installed in a Remington 700. Before I move forward, I will attempt to have this discussion with the folks at Big Horn.

I will state again my goal in building or assembling at home is not necessarily to save a lot of money, create the worlds most accurate rifle, have the perfect fit and finished gun, or eventually selling the gun. It is more about having done something that I previously thought could not be done without very expensive tooling and experience.

 

[Another Casual]

Bighorn Origin $825
TT Special $175
KRG Bravo $400
Atlas CAL and Clamp $300
A419 Brake $200
Keystone/PVA prefit $500
Viper vice and action wrench $150

$2450

With about $200 in savings to be had in the PX. At least. For a full custom hammer

Main thing is the barreled action. As above, you can spend as much or as little as you want on a stock/chassis. gac700 spent $1200+ on a manners. Maybe you want a boyds, KRG, or grayboe in the $400 area, etc Stock/chassis is a big area for difference in price. For the rest it seems like the base cost is pretty consistent.

Barreled action:
$825 Origin
$150 Timney
$300 Criterion or similar prefit
$30 barrel nut from PVA that uses a regular wrench
$60 barrel vise (wheeler)
$27 to rent head space gauges
-------------------------------------------
$1,392 + stock of choice

If you want to use a remington action and a remage prefit, subtract $400 or so. Point is, just like a custom from a smith you can spend as much or as little as you'd like. It can definitely be done, and it's honestly how I see the industry going. I had a custom 700 and liked it, but I knew a replacement barrel would be $700 or so with shipping, downtime to and from the smith, etc. Sold it and got an origin. Now my replacement barrels ate $300 or so and I can always pickup one in a different caliber or contour if I want. Want to save weight while backpack hunting? Pickup an 18 inch lightweight contour barrel, etc. I really think prefits you can spin on at home are the future.

 

[BoilerUP]

My entry into this hobby was with Savages, which are pretty damn easy to swap barrels out at home with a Go-Gauge, scotch tape, a barrel nut wrench, dead blow hammer, a bench vise, some hardwood blocks and some brown sugar. Sounds a bit bubba-ish, and kinda is, but I've had very good luck out of them...but had to screw with improving ejection and lessening bolt lift along the way.

Three years ago I had a custom rifle built by Isaac Frank of Southern Indiana Precision, and the thing flat hammers. Told him what I wanted, got a few suggestions from him, provided all parts but the barrel, and a few weeks later he called to say it was ready to pick up and even gave me load data that he used for the same chambering.

I've sold off all but one of my Savages now, but got a Nucleus barreled action from PVA last year. Immediately put a Timney 510 in it and installed it in a KRG Bravo, only to experience occasional light primer strikes. Josh @ PVA was great and suggested a "U" sear which Timney sent me for free, and after installing it and dry firing a couple hundred times it has been 100% since. I did buy another Nucleus shouldered prefit barrel from PVA, and was able to easily swap barrels using an ARC action wrench...which will save time and money for barrel swaps going forward.

My personal opinion is a quality, competent smith can really make a kickass rifle system turnkey, especially when bedding a traditional stock & DBM...but if you are planning on simply bolting a barreled action into a chassis I can see tangible benefit and enjoyment from a DIY project that will still have excellent practical accuracy.

 

[Zermatt Arms]

Thank you for the comments. I mainly wanted to find out if there was something that I did not understand that I might get myself into. The trigger timing issue is probably the best example of a relatively unknown issue to me at least.

After doing a little research on-line, I am not sure how many people actually fool with timing a trigger. I state this as the only video I found was in reference to a BAT action that had different inserts to adjust trigger timing. I also have yet to see anyone giving advice to a problem with a gun either piercing primers or mis-fires to be related to trigger timing. Both of which could be a result of improper trigger timing; as I understand the issue. In fact, I found at least one or two threads that started off on trigger timing, but ended up talking about the camming action upon initial bolt lift, extraction, and how it relates to the bolt handle vs the video on how to set the trigger timing on the BAT action. I also did not see anything in the instructions of the Timney trigger that I just installed in a Remington 700. Before I move forward, I will attempt to have this discussion with the folks at Big Horn.

I will state again my goal in building or assembling at home is not necessarily to save a lot of money, create the worlds most accurate rifle, have the perfect fit and finished gun, or eventually selling the gun. It is more about having done something that I previously thought could not be done without very expensive tooling and experience.

You are absolutely right in all of your thought processes spelled out here. Especially when it comes to timing.

Timing is very much isolated to how an action feels, not how it performs. Feel is subjective to the user, not a standard. However, a timed trigger does give a LOT of people warm and fuzzy's when it's done right. And, as stated in this thread, we will do it for free if you send your trigger to us prior to your action shipping.

If you know how to turn an wrench and install a few screws, you can assemble a rifle. To echo what a lot of people have said, assembling a rifle and fine tuning a rifle are two different things. There may be some feed lip tweaks here and there to get it right, but it's not rocket science with high quality components and some good tools.

We have faith in our customers to get it right on their own, but we'll always be there to talk something through with you if you need some advice on what to do and where.

Thank you - Ray

 

[roostercogburn98]

Tools and components will cost more that going custom. There are many differences between the final rifles. The biggest differences are the quality of the build, fit, finish, resale value, and perhaps accuracy. Timing comes into play because of waiting on parts.

There is no way a home build can equal a GA or LRI custom built rifle.

I spent more for a home build that still has a Remington trigger and blued/stainless finishes. I could figure out how to Cerekote, but that would require more time, effort, and expense. I will buy a Trigger Tech which only adds to the expenses.

I’m not saying you can’t build quality rifles at home. After several builds the tooling cost would go down. my gun shoots well, but I would call it custom, or quality - assembled is a good description.

At the end of the day I wish I had gone custom. I’ve been fortunate enough to to visit GA, Kelby, and LRI, (others) along with attending SHOT and NRA shows.

it is tough to beat custom once you do the math. I read build at home all the time on SH and my first thought is BS.

My vote is buy, not build.

so a guy with the right tooling and knowledge can’t build at home with the same quality as a big name gunsmith? Help me understand how not please.

 

[IowaGeologist]

I would recommend getting the trigger ahead of the action and sending it into Bighorn to time it to the action.

Can you expand on this a little bit? I just purchased an Origin and was planning on just throwing my TT Primary on it once it arrives. What am I missing out on here?

 

[spife7980]

Can you expand on this a little bit? I just purchased an Origin and was planning on just throwing my TT Primary on it once it arrives. What am I missing out on here?

On most bolt rifles when you lift the bolt handle you are actually pulling the firing pin back against the forward spring pressure with the mechanical help of an inclined plane (cocking ramp) which spreads the force out over a longer distance to make it easier to operate without having to flex your muscles. The trigger then catches the firing pin and holds it back when you lower the bolt handle.

The sear location which catches and holds the firing pin back is different in all the different triggers, there is no set standard.

As such the location where the sear on the trigger and the cocking piece can vary in its location front to rear.
If its too far forward relative to the action then the spring isnt held back far enough to provide enough spring pressure to set the primers off.
Set it back too far and instead of the action only using its mechanical leverage on the spring pressure to close the bolt you end up having to overcome the pressure yourself which can often be described as heavy cock on close.

Sanding/grinding/trimming up the cocking piece on the firing pin can allow you to time that interaction up in its relative location to the action to where it uses all of the built in mechanical leverage of the action without having to physically overcome the additional spring pressure yourself.

Personally, I dont mind the bit of cock on close. Sure you an notice it if you deliberately look for it but in actually using the action I havent noticed my extra .020 or whatever it is of cock on close. And by not trimming it I ensure that I dont inadvertently remove too much material should I put in a subsequent new trigger in the future that puts that interaction at a different location that my current trigger (though Im not ever gonna swap out my bix and andy).

 

[Zermatt Arms]

Can you expand on this a little bit? I just purchased an Origin and was planning on just throwing my TT Primary on it once it arrives. What am I missing out on here?

From a couple posts above yours: "Timing is very much isolated to how an action feels, not how it performs. Feel is subjective to the user, not a standard. However, a timed trigger does give a LOT of people warm and fuzzy's when it's done right. And, as stated in this thread, we will do it for free if you send your trigger to us prior to your action shipping."

Without timing the action and trigger interface, there will likely be between .015" and .030" cock on close. That produces a stiffer than typically desired bolt close. What we do in house is measure the amount of cock on close your trigger is presenting then replace the cocking piece to get it as close to zero as possible. It's an easy process and we do it during assembly of your action. So if you send your trigger prior to action shipment, it only takes us as long as receiving your trigger to complete your Origin order.

If you've got any questions, feel free to reach out here, at my email ([email protected]) or call us from 8-4 central M-F. Thank you - Ray

 

[IowaGeologist]

On most bolt rifles when you lift the bolt handle you are actually pulling the firing pin back against the forward spring pressure with the mechanical help of an inclined plane (cocking ramp) which spreads the force out over a longer distance to make it easier to operate without having to flex your muscles. The trigger then catches the firing pin and holds it back when you lower the bolt handle.

The sear location which catches and holds the firing pin back is different in all the different triggers, there is no set standard.
View attachment 7173336

As such the location where the sear on the trigger and the cocking piece can vary in its location front to rear.
If its too far forward relative to the action then the spring isnt held back far enough to provide enough spring pressure to set the primers off.
Set it back too far and instead of the action only using its mechanical leverage on the spring pressure to close the bolt you end up having to overcome the pressure yourself which can often be described as heavy cock on close.

Sanding/grinding/trimming up the cocking piece on the firing pin can allow you to time that interaction up in its relative location to the action to where it uses all of the built in mechanical leverage of the action without having to physically overcome the additional spring pressure yourself.

Personally, I dont mind the bit of cock on close. Sure you an notice it if you deliberately look for it but in actually using the action I havent noticed my extra .020 or whatever it is of cock on close. And by not trimming it I ensure that I dont inadvertently remove too much material should I put in a subsequent new trigger in the future that puts that interaction at a different location that my current trigger (though Im not ever gonna swap out my bix and andy).

From a couple posts above yours: "Timing is very much isolated to how an action feels, not how it performs. Feel is subjective to the user, not a standard. However, a timed trigger does give a LOT of people warm and fuzzy's when it's done right. And, as stated in this thread, we will do it for free if you send your trigger to us prior to your action shipping."

Without timing the action and trigger interface, there will likely be between .015" and .030" cock on close. That produces a stiffer than typically desired bolt close. What we do in house is measure the amount of cock on close your trigger is presenting then replace the cocking piece to get it as close to zero as possible. It's an easy process and we do it during assembly of your action. So if you send your trigger prior to action shipment, it only takes us as long as receiving your trigger to complete your Origin order.

If you've got any questions, feel free to reach out here, at my email ([email protected]) or call us from 8-4 central M-F. Thank you - Ray

Thanks for the info guys.

 

[MIROPHAN]

Many of you are recommending a chassis style stock. I am not opposed to a chassis, but I am having trouble finding one in the configuration that I would like to have. I need a left handed stock, and want a grip that is similar to a Manners EH1. I do not want a chassis with what I will classify as a AR style trigger grip. I also really don't like the wait time for a Manners stock. Once I make the decision to move, I want to move and buy relatively quickly.

Any recommendations for left hand chassis with similar grip to EH1?