Night Vision Custom USB power supply options for Thermal and NV

CoryT

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  • Mar 5, 2004
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    With the success of the COTI USB Battery Adapter (CUBA), we are adding options for other systems. The CUBA distribution will continue to be handled by SOK, and I will deliver the one-off custom solutions for other systems. Currently, we can supply a cap and battery adapter for CR123A systems to include the Trijicon IR Patrol series, Skeet (units without the USB port), and DTNVG and DTNVS goggles. A splitter cable system for combining the DTNV- and COTI or IR Patrol/Skeet is also available. We intend to support goggles with a Fischer or Lemo port as well. AA battery systems can also be created, if desired.

    As additional systems some online I'll make a post here. If you have a system for which you'd like to get a USB battery adapter made up, please send me a PM and we'll see what we can do for you.
     
    Second dual cable system testing before delivery. Using FlexSeal on the splitter and regulator box, seems to be an improvement on adhesive heat shrink. No really good way to apply that on the splitter assembly.

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    If you can do a cable that will allow both a TracIR/Raptar and external power to Trij/Oasys thermal, you will be the next Sith Lord.
    Well, I’d need a starting point. If I had a base set of cables that need to be combined we’d be able to figure out if it’s possible. Main challenge would be proprietary connectors. I’ll look into it.
     
    DTNVG/Iray Jerry C2? The C2 has a 7 pin Fischer (not LEMO, sorry for the brainfart) option or onboard with a flattop cr123 or 18650 battery
     
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    I’d need to find the correct connector and pin out to the C5. I’ll reach out to IRay and see if they will provide that. Looks more like a Fischer connector than a Lemo. If anyone has a cable and battery pack they could lend me for a day I can document it.
     
    Got a steiner c35 cable? It takes a weird battery I think. I don't have it yet because the ups guy left a slip instead of delivering it, even though he knew someone was home. ....
     
    @CoryT

    Awesome products.

    How about the RH25 thermal? I’ll attach photos

    Also, what about a cable and adapter for just a pvs14?
     

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    Since the RH25 already has a cable, what would we make for it? Might be a right angle option, but is that worth the expense for anyone? Those RA Fischer connector run about $50 cost, so it would turn out to be a pretty expensive solution to a minimal problem.
     
    Since the RH25 already has a cable, what would we make for it? Might be a right angle option, but is that worth the expense for anyone? Those RA Fischer connector run about $50 cost, so it would turn out to be a pretty expensive solution to a minimal problem.
    Well the cable it comes with is 6ft long and has an additional connector for some type of video out. It’s not really meant for helmet use.

    I’m interested in having mine spliced potentially to eliminate the video cable and shorten the length. 90 degree would also be necessary in my opinion.

    Also some weight distribution benefit removing the 18650

    Those photos are actually from someone on a different forum asking for a different cable as well, so I know I’m not the only one.

    I think people spending $6k on a thermal wouldn’t mind spending some money on a decent cable (myself included)
     

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    Well the cable it comes with is 6ft long and has an additional connector for some type of video out. It’s not really meant for helmet use.

    I’m interested in having mine spliced potentially to eliminate the video cable and shorten the length. 90 degree would also be necessary in my opinion.

    Also some weight distribution benefit removing the 18650

    Those photos are actually from someone on a different forum asking for a different cable as well, so I know I’m not the only one.

    I think people spending $6k on a thermal wouldn’t mind spending some money on a decent cable (myself included)
    Ahh, no plain cable available then. I'd need to borrow one of the factory cables for a few days to confirm pinout and connector type. It appears to be a Fischer, but there are other push-pull types out there. Most of them are available in right angle, cable exit would be towards the white dot. Let me know if you want to pursue this, should be simple enough, though it might take a week or two to get connectors.
     
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    Ahh, no plain cable available then. I'd need to borrow one of the factory cables for a few days to confirm pinout and connector type. It appears to be a Fischer, but there are other push-pull types out there. Most of them are available in right angle, cable exit would be towards the white dot. Let me know if you want to pursue this, should be simple enough, though it might take a week or two to get connectors.
    The angle on the Fischer 90 connectors aren’t adjustable like the lemo 4pin types?
     
    Not for most of thepart numbers. Even Lemo connectors have limited options, the Anglessimo version is not in all sizes.
    Thanks for the info. I would like to go ahead and send my cable to you. If for no other reason than you checking and confirming the connector type & options. Hopefully it helps your cause and I can inform others of the options and refer them to you if need be.

    Especially if you can splice my existing cable. The 90 degree exiting at the bottom of unit (as you previously stated) will have roughly the same amount of natural cable bend as a straight connector. So there might not be a huge benefit to a 90. But we can talk more about it.

    I’ll pm you for shipping details. Thanks
     
    Thanks @CoryT for taking my Iray RH25 factory 6ft cable and turning it in to something far more useable.

    His pricing is incredibly fair given the time it takes to do these cables and cost of materials.

    The cable is so well made it looks as good, if not better, than a factory cable.
     

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    Thanks @CoryT for taking my Iray RH25 factory 6ft cable and turning it in to something far more useable.

    His pricing is incredibly fair given the time it takes to do these cables and cost of materials.

    The cable is so well made it looks as good, if not better, than a factory cable.
    Happy to be of service, enjoy!
     
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    Got a steiner c35 cable? It takes a weird battery I think. I don't have it yet because the ups guy left a slip instead of delivering it, even though he knew someone was home. ....
    Got C35, went to battery shop to get spares. None fit steiner. Their batteries are either too fat or too long. After some vape problems the manufacturers added surge protection circuits, hence size difference.
    ended up buying spares at vape shop, thiers fit. Look identical to what steiner supplied, work well i beleive steiner has built in power protection (anecdotal source, never cheked myself.
     
    Got C35, went to battery shop to get spares. None fit steiner. Their batteries are either too fat or too long. After some vape problems the manufacturers added surge protection circuits, hence size difference.
    ended up buying spares at vape shop, thiers fit. Look identical to what steiner supplied, work well i beleive steiner has built in power protection (anecdotal source, never cheked myself.
    Yeah that's what I did also. I got 2 batteries and a little plastic case to keep em in. They seem to be exactly like the battery that came with it. Thanks for letting me know about it.
     
    Is that the same battery box as the LWTS? Assuming you'd have to bring power through a battery cover.
    The CNVD-T uses a threaded cap, so easy to print one. The LTWS would require modification of the factory lid, or replication of one and remove/replace. Either is doable, I'd need a unit in hand to create the parts.
     
    I’m looking for a battery cable for my MH25. It is essentially a 180 degree USB-C cable, need it for helmet mounted use. What would it take to get that made?
     
    I’m looking for a battery cable for my MH25. It is essentially a 180 degree USB-C cable, need it for helmet mounted use. What would it take to get that made?
    If it is not a splitter combined with some other cable, you just use a commercial USB C cable with the ends you want. Somthing like this would normally work.
    Angled USB C
     
    Parts in stock for DC plugs, Lemo and Fischer cables, 4 pin and 7 pin types. This supports the BNVD's, I have printed cap adapters for the DTNVS, PVS-14, IR Patrol's and COTI's. Other cap adapters can be created. USB battery packs and standard NVG packs like the L3, AB, Argus and Nocturn are usable. Split cables with dual voltages and connectors are possible, so you could opt for a PVS-14 (DC Plug, 1.5VDC) and a RH25 (7 Pin Fischer, 3.4VDC).

    I currently have cable/power data for
    BNVD's (31A, 1431)
    RNVG's
    DTNVS (adapter cap)
    Optics 1 COTI's (adapter cap)
    PVS-14 (adapter cap)
    IR Patrol M series (adapter cap)
    UTC series
    EoTech ClipIR (VERY expensive Fischer cable)
    IRay RH25, MH25, Jerry-C
    Armasight Sidekick


    Vortex 4000 LRF
     
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    Parts in stock for DC plugs, Lemo and Fischer cables, 4 pin and 7 pin types. This supports the BNVD's, I have printed cap adapters for the DTNVS, PVS-14, IR Patrol's and COTI's. Other cap adapters can be created. USB battery packs and standard NVG packs like the L3, AB, Argus and Nocturn are usable. Split cables with dual voltages and connectors are possible, so you could opt for a PVS-14 (DC Plug, 1.5VDC) and a RH25 (7 Pin Fischer, 3.4VDC).

    I currently have cable/power data for
    BNVD's (31A, 1431)
    RNVG's
    DTNVS (adapter cap)
    Optics 1 COTI's (adapter cap)
    PVS-14 (adapter cap)
    IR Patrol M series (adapter cap)
    UTC series
    EoTech ClipIR (VERY expensive Fischer cable)
    IRay RH25, MH25, Jerry-C
    Armasight Sidekick


    Vortex 4000 LRF
    What would a 14/Sidekick run about? A little later in the year I might get a Sidekick. Glad you still making these!!!