CZ 455 Pillars

Anchor Zero Six

Problem Solver
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Minuteman
Nov 11, 2007
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Corona Komifornia
Just wanted to post this to help out those contemplating installing pillars in the 455.

I have seen the You Tube videos where lamp rod was used and the holes were enlarged. I decided to see if I could figure out a way to do pillars without the need for anything more than simple (cheap) hand tools although I do have access to a Mill and a lathe.

Here is what a trip to the local Ma & Pop hardware store yeilded.

Stared with 5/16x.028 Stainless tubing. The action screw drops right in and with one wrap of masking tape it will center within the pillar. Another benifit to this opposed to the lamp rod is that the tubing fits within the factory screw holes in the stock so there is no need to enlarge the holes. I felt the only way to accuratly enlarge the holes for the lamp rod would be with a drill press or mill and I realize not every home DIY guy has such equipment so this was the alternate solution.

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Using my bench mounted vice I had to crimp the end of the tubing to hold it for the next step.

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Now I had to figure out a way to get the bedding compound to adhere to the pillar. Again with a lathe this is an easy fix but what could be done without a lathe...run a die over it. I used a 3/8 x 16 NC die which worked very well.

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And here we see the end result. Just need to cut to length with a tubing cutter.

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I'll post more as time permits but I was able to finish the install over the weekend. The only real power tool I used was a Dremel which as far as I'm concerned should be in every mans inventory along with Duct Tape lol.

I used the Dremel to cut a relief for the front action screw and the magazine well. As I stated previously this will fit within the factory screw hole in the stock without the need to enlarge.

No CZ's were harmed durring the construction of this project.

A06
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

Sorry ahead of time for spelling and poor pics...doing this with cell phone and iPad

The lighter shaded areas in the bedding is simply where it contacted the clay or excess paste wax release agent. I plan to reskim the rear tang and receiver sides next time I mix a batch of marine tex, this was done with brownells steelbed not sure if I like that stuff or not.

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Re: CZ 455 Pillars

Turk, just saw in another thread that you have a 455 w/ manners. Is the inlet the same as the factory inlet?

I guess what I'm asking is if the front screw hole is open on the rear to clear the magazine well.

I'm not a fan of woodwork, would much rather bed a glass stock anyday.
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

No the barrel channel had to be opened up for the bull barrel. This was not a varmint barreled cz just a standard taper barreled American. The Lilja will fit a Var 455 w/ out modification according to a few folks on RFC.
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

Thanks A06,
I was thinking about going with a Lilja, but wanted the straight pipe, not the varmint taper. FINALLY someone else posted one on here! More pics, especially when you shoot it.
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

A full bedding job looked too much like work for me. I figured
since the 455 is a rimfire, and there really isn't a whole lot
of recoil, then the pillars alone would take care of all the
recoil. But since I had purchased the epoxy already to seat the
pillars it was simple enough to shim the reciever first,
without having to remove any wood.
The shims are just dots of 5 minute epoxy applied to the upper portion
of the curve of the stock inletting, then compressed in place
between the stock and the waxed body of the receiver.

DOT1.jpg


After hardening a perfect tapered shim stabilizes the receiver in the stock.

SHIM1.jpg


Epoxy shims were added at the locations indicated in red

dot-bedding.jpg


Resulting in this

side-shims.JPG


Shimming helped accuracy, but the pillars made the big difference.
For pillars I used Hillman bronze bearings from the local hardware store.

The 1/4"x3/8"x1" sleeve bearing

hillman-sleeve-bearing.JPG



and the 1/4"x3/8"x15/32"x1/2" flange bearing

Hillman-flange-bearing.JPG


Used a countersink bit to set the flange bearings flush with the
underside of the stock, then shortened the sleeve bearings to
length with a belt sander. Had to remove a portion of the
forward pillar to clear the magazine housing screw. Sanded the
stock screw holes to remove finish, checked the fit repeatedly
to ensure I'd made no mistakes, roughed the surface of the
bearings with 60 grit sandpaper, then epoxied the bearings in place.

pillared-shimmed.JPG
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

The CZ 455 is a production model 22.
It is not a custom, competition ready rifle.
It is not the equal of a Cooper or an Anschutz.
But then you won't be paying $1700 bucks plus for it either.
If you are looking for a rifle that looks good, feels solid,
and is a value for what you pay, then the CZ is a good choice.
I purchased mine as a combo, two barrels, .17 HMR and 22lr.
It allows me to use 22lr at the range to keep costs down
and the .17 HMR for hunting small game. I'm satisfied
with the adjustable trigger as it came from the factory.
Lower the tension for range use, increase it for safety when hunting.
Now that match grade barrels are available,
if you do want to compete with the big bucks rifles,
you can, for a lot less. Did I mention it looks good?
grin.gif




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Re: CZ 455 Pillars

CZ's are awesome but do your homework and have an idea of what you plan to do with it. I have both 452 and 455 and if I simply wanted the factory varmint barrel configuration I would have gone with the 452. I went with the 455 because I planned on the Lilja from the start and barrels are user replaceable.

Many ways to skin this cat when it comes to pillars and bedding. I agree with jaia that full bedding is a hassle I had to do it three times to get it perfect and I had some trial and error to deal with along the way. Not to mention each time I had to refinish the stock and ended up rebluing it too...bought it new two months ago and it's been apart more than it's been together but I think I'm all done for now.

Just got it put back together this afternoon, had to bed the bull barrel further out to support it.
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Re: CZ 455 Pillars

The yodave trigger kit is a necessity on either 452 or 455. The stock triggers are absolutely terrible. But luckily with a pin shim a reduced weight trigger spring and some polishing you can make them actually very nice.

Add an overtravel stop and it would be perfect (next for me on the list)

I really like anshutz but its apples and oranges, and with the 455 its really nice to have a switch barrel.

Im contemplating modding my stock with two drilled holes so I can change the barrel without having to pull the action. I think it would be nice.
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ggmanning</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The threaded rods for a household lamp make good ready to use pillars for a rimfire also. </div></div>

True in many applications but I think you missed the point of this. The pillars I made do not require the existing holes to be enlarged. The 455 front action screw hole in the stock is open on one side to clear the mag well bolt so simply running a larger bit down the hole will most likly screw the pooch unless done on a mill or at least a drill press.
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

I did not enlarge my existing holes. The lamp rod threads right in the hole and were a perfect fit with just enough resistance to bite. Now if you prefer the passive bedding of your pillars the holes would need enlargement and I would take the time to thread some appropriate rod. Regardless, nice job it looks good.
 
Re: CZ 455 Pillars

I set and cut the rods to the right height and then fully bedded the action. The rods themselves are held initially by friction of screwing them into the holes. Bedding the action also additionally locks the rods in place because I relieved about 3/8" of wood around the pillars on the action side that was then filled by the bedding process. Probably overkill because the rods are tight but it was an easy bit of extra retention.
 
Do your pillars float within the stock or do they make full contact with the action? I have pillar bedded a few 455's and have done it both ways (floating style and full contact). After seeing how they have shot over sometime I'm preffering full contact. I use these pillars for 455's and everything else. They are made of solid tinned copper and are rediculiously strong!


Here are some pics of my 455 "varmerican" :).



 
Hi, I was just wondering if you had a rough length for the rear pillar? I was looking at using a grub screw with a hex bit to thread into the rear, after facing off and adjusting to length in a lathe of course. But was wanting a rough length to start off at. I won't be doing a full bedding job until I've sourced a trigger kit so I have a reason to remove the full trigger and mag well, but I'm in Australia so everything isn't as easy to get here.
 
Or even if someone could tell me what the diameter of the rear hole is so I can get the correct sizing for my pillar before stripping my rifle. Thanks.
 
Thanks heaps for that. Just looking for size of the bits I need to buy. Do you know roughly how big the original holes in the stock are before drilling them out?