Decent Safe for under $1000

T

timelinex

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
    • May 7, 2011
    1,381
    32
    Scottsdale,Az
    #1
    I just bought a house and decided I need a safe to keep my rifles/guns and the more expensive equipment in. I have about a couple guns and 4 rifles that I NEED to keep in there, everything else is mostly optional. I have already read countless threads on this topic though and realize I need to buy bigger than expected, my collection is only going to grow. I tried doing a search and couldn't find anything helpful, now that the site changed and google no longer links to the forum correctly, search has become alot harder.

    My dimensions that I'm hoping to stay in is 28" deep, 42" wide and a max of 77" tall.

    A fatboy jr looks pretty like it fits my description exactly, but its just slightly outside my price range of $1000 TOTAL. I actually prefer the 'cheaper' dial to the more expensive electronic version of safes.

    Any suggestions?
     
    #3
    Wally world actually has some decent deals. This stack on model is under 1k, but might break that mark with tax:
    http://www.walmart.com/ip/Custom-Ac...a38-40c3-b890-5a2e3647865b&findingMethod=p13n

    This cannon is smaller than your dimensions, but this one is in stock local so I got to check it out and would easily hold 10 scoped rifles and other stuff, and is WELL under your budget:
    http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cannon-Safari-Series-Gun-Safe-24-Gun-Capacity/21634516

    Now these are not Fort Knox quality safes, but IMO are right in line with the liberty safes (which I own 2 of) in security and a great value for what you get. Install in a place that makes prying tough and sleeve anchor to a slab if possible. Mine are in the back of alcoves in my floor plan. If you want to stop someone with an angle grinder and plenty of motivation you really have to step up to the 3K++ entry level brands, of which we could list out for days and ultimately that argument ends at the 20k Graffunder.
     
    #4
    I have the Costco version of that Cannon, and it is a pretty nice safe for the price in my mind. I agree that 10 scoped rifles is about the absolute max.

    Think about the maximum number of guns you think you will own, and then double that number to determine the size safe you need. Just some advice I heeded when purchasing mine. If I am completely honest about it I still wish I had gone bigger. You will always find more things that belong in the safe..
     
    #5
    Tractor supply has a "cannon ts6040dlx wide body safe" , here, which looks like it might cost me 1250 delivered. How does this safe compare to the fatboy jr which can be found for roughly the same price?

    It looks like its just slightly less wide but way deeper than the fatboy jr. In fact to deep to fit in my closet, but its not a big deal, as I can take my closet doors off.
     
    #9
    I have a Liberty revere i picked up at gander mountain for right at $700, I like the safe just wish it was bigger, does not take long to fill up. Next time i will know to get the biggest one i can that will work for me..
     
    #10
    timelinex said:
    Tractor supply has a "cannon ts6040dlx wide body safe" , here, which looks like it might cost me 1250 delivered. How does this safe compare to the fatboy jr which can be found for roughly the same price?

    It looks like its just slightly less wide but way deeper than the fatboy jr. In fact to deep to fit in my closet, but its not a big deal, as I can take my closet doors off.
    Click to expand...

    This is what I bought. I have no comparison to the fatboy but I like mine just fine. My uncle bought the same one, which is why I picked mine up. I think I paid $1069 tax included or something like that, but I went to the store. I love it.
     
    #13
    timelinex said:
    I've been looking and I'm not sure of Costco still carries their safes. Anyone have any intel on this? I would definitely buy their $800 cannon safe if they still carried it
    Click to expand...

    Looks like Costco only carries Rhino brand....I do recall looking at their site prior to buying mine at Tractor Supply - they had a Cannon there, but it seemed more cheaply made than what was available for $100 more at Tractor Supply.
    http://www.costco.com/executive-vaults.html
     
    #16
    Like mentioned above if you watch the sales at Tractor Supply different times of the year they drop them really low. I bought a Fat Boy for 599.00 a few years ago. I watched it drop to 999 then to 799 and when it hit 599 I bought it. Now I wish I had bought 3. They run really good sales after winter hunting season usually and into the summer months. Just keep an eye out.
     
    #18
    timelinex said:
    Can you remember any specific holidays ,other than July 4th and black Friday, to look out for. I was hoping not to wait 4 months for a sale, but might end up waiting..
    Click to expand...

    I asked a guy at tractor supply for specific dates, he told me to sign up for their email newsletter. He said that would be the best way for me to know and that they have multiple sales throughout the year. I think Memorial Day or Labor Day may have one, those two stick in my head for some reason.
     
    #19
    I know this is going to piss some people off.

    You are not going to find a good safe for under $2500

    Everything mentioned has both shitty fire protection or shitty tamper resistance.

    Almost every safe you see in big box stores or Cabelas/Bass Pro is a waste of money.(Heavy wastes of money)

    They offer little to no REAL fire protection and little restistance to anyone with a pry bar/digging bar or angle grinder.

    Here is what I would do.

    1.Get a cheap Metal stack on and put it in a closet. This will keep kids and anyone from just taking the guns and organize them in one spot. Keeps honest people honest Should be around $100 Bucks
    2. Get a Dakota XP or similar modular safe. Put it inside a closet or place it cannot be moved. This will give you a little more protection as they will have to tear up the walls to get to it. The real benefit is that it breaks down (heaviest piece is the door around 200lbs) so you can lift and move this yourself in pieces.
    3. Look on cragslist for Used GSA security containers or Old Safes. Look for real UL/TL rated or GSA rated safes. You can gut the interioir and build racks or storage space. These will be heavy as shit, but they will provide very good theft and fire protection. They have pourd concerete walls that will insulate from fire and make drilling/dismantling them a real bitch to a theif. Only thing that will defeat these is High skill (not going to matter) and time.
    4. Save up for a AMSEC TL rated or similar safe. You are going to spend around $3K with moving costs and god forbid you plan to move it.


    All the shit you typicaly see arent safes, They are RSC's or residential security containers. Youtube some videos of how fast and easy people break into them before you drop $500 on a chunk of poorly designed and crafted steel box.
     
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    #20
    I got my fatboy Jr. A few months back and am super happy. Its what I need as I will not spend 4k on a safe. I thought it through and picked this one since it is constructed beeter than most around its price when looking at seams, locking, fire rating, tamper resistance.
     
    #21
    You do realize that its just marketing and/lies? Drywall does not fireproof and a pretty weld doesnt mean shit when its a thin door (most are hollow)

    Liberty safes are all pretty much junk. You are paying for bullshit marketing and pretty paint jobs.
     
    #22
    FYI, Fort Knoxx arent much better. Here is a post from TOS

    "Unfortunately, I had a fire two weeks ago at my home and my gun safe (a Fort Knox top of the line) was right smack in the middle of it. The dial was completely melted and fused to the front of the safe. Fort Knox is replacing the safe under warranty and authorized us to open the safe without trying to salvage it. It took us 15 minutes with a gas powered saw to cut through the 5/8" solid steel outer door panel and operate the locking mechanism by hand to open the safe. The whole process reminded me just how easy it is to open any residential safe with the right tool and without regard to making some noise. Common thieves may not have the tools (for god's sake if you're a contractor don't store the "right tools" any where near your safe) but someone who knows what you have and comes prepared can get in easily. If you live in any sort of remote area or even several hundred yards from the closes neighbor noise isn't going to be an issue either. Just something to consider!!!!!!"

    An angle grinder with a cut off wheel will open any RSC like a tuna can. If you have something that is really valuable/irreplaceable, get a real safe AND insurance. Fire can destroy the best safes out there depending on the incident.
     
    #24
    I have no problem with the cheaper Liberty, as I have close retired neighbors so power tools would be pretty easily heard by them. The metal cabinets can be opened with a butter knife (literally), so not quite on the same plane. With proper installation you can make prying extremely difficult.

    I have been in many fires with safes, as I have spent more than the last decade in that profession with a busy department, and have a different perspective on the whole fire resistant thing. If there is a fire at your home, it will either be a smallish fire, knocked down (hopefully) quickly by an efficient fire crew, or you will burn the fugging roof off. In the first case, a basic safe with gypsum insulation will work great. Smoke/water damage will be the biggest problem in your house, and mid-quality safes will keep your stuff pretty much perfectly intact. The latter situation will cook the shit out of whatever is inside any safe, even if it has 4 inches of concrete in it. When a room reaches the flashover stage temps at the floor will be near 1100 degrees. Give that a minute or two and you will have a nice broil going on inside. When this occurs I would just as well call it a total loss and claim the insurance (be sure you have a rider for your guns). These observations are from my first hand experience but take them for what they are worth.

    If you need a safe that can spend some quality alone time with a criminal, get a Graffunder. But don't just not get a safe because you can't afford to spend thousands. Something halfway decent can serve you well.
     
    Last edited:
    #25
    Cobracutter said:
    You do realize that its just marketing and/lies? Drywall does not fireproof and a pretty weld doesnt mean shit when its a thin door (most are hollow)

    Liberty safes are all pretty much junk. You are paying for bullshit marketing and pretty paint jobs.
    Click to expand...

    Well aren't we just Mr. Positive! Haha. It works for my needs and budget and probably for 90% of the people that buy one. Won't prevent as much as a 4k safe, but guess what, its what 90% of those people can afford. I'm not going to NOT buy one
    because I can't afford that. Lighten up!
     
    #27
    I'm not sure then is a good safe under $1,000, but there are safes that are certainly better than nothing. There was a thead on another forum late last year showing what burglars with some tools/mechanical skills sawed the corner off of and emptied in short order. My safes are not the highest fire protection, but have them lugged in a separate gun room that is on an outer wall with nothing above or below, so hopes are if we have a fire it won't reach the room, or at least it wouldn't be the hottest area.

    I take protection of my guns/red-neck retirement seriously. Most time I regret not buying more expensive safes. I often teeter on upgrading, but typically blow my toy money on more guns. I like Browning, Liberty and Cannon. But each now have various levels of protection, so more complex than just comparing brands, need to look at the different lines each company offers.

    Good luck and best purchase you will ever make.
     
    #28
    http://cesafes.com/

    Check out Curts YouTube video he did on the truth about safes. Very informative.

    For a custom made safe his CE safe is hard to beat when you look at how it's made.

    I'm in the market for a safe right now too, I was looking to keep it around $1000, but after looking around and doing a bit if research that price doubled.

    I figure a safe will be holding tens of thousands worth of guns, along with priceless other family heirlooms, pictures, wife's jewelry ect in it.
     
    #29
    I just drove three hours to CE Safes the other day. Well worth the time. His CE safes are awesome starting around 1300. He got me exactly what I wanted for $2,600. I Should be getting my safe in a few days.
     
    #30
    JB5812 said:
    Well aren't we just Mr. Positive! Haha. It works for my needs and budget and probably for 90% of the people that buy one. Won't prevent as much as a 4k safe, but guess what, its what 90% of those people can afford. I'm not going to NOT buy one
    because I can't afford that. Lighten up!
    Click to expand...

    It wont prevent anything. Fire or theft from someone who wants to get into it. I can afford countersnipers scopes, but do I own them? The point is, you are WASTING your money buying that shit. If you want a decent safe for a good value, look at Sturdy. It will not stop someone with a little time and tools, but it has some features to slow them down and the fireproofing is much better than the shit in Liberty/Browning/Ft.Knox and all the other tuna can shit RSC's. Even a $25K Graffunder will destroy the contents if you dont get the safe cooled down (water) and off the coals within a few hours or so of the fire starting. . The safes turn into giant thermal elements to cook everything inside. Can't beat physics.

    Its a false sense of security. Your better off just making sure everything is insured.
     
    #31
    Turdcutter said:
    It wont prevent anything. Fire or theft from someone who wants to get into it. I can afford countersnipers scopes, but do I own them? The point is, you are WASTING your money buying that shit. If you want a decent safe for a good value, look at Sturdy. It will not stop someone with a little time and tools, but it has some features to slow them down and the fireproofing is much better than the shit in Liberty/Browning/Ft.Knox and all the other tuna can shit RSC's. Even a $25K Graffunder will destroy the contents if you dont get the safe cooled down (water) and off the coals within a few hours or so of the fire starting. . The safes turn into giant thermal elements to cook everything inside. Can't beat physics.

    Its a false sense of security. Your better off just making sure everything is insured.
    Click to expand...

    Holy shit turdcutter, you're an expert on every topic on this forum. I do agree there's not many safes under 1k worth a shit, why are you preaching to these guys they need to spend 3 months salary on a safe. And anyone who can afford insurance on their guns could afford to build a friggen vault.
    Most safes between 1500.00 to 2500.00 will probably withstand most casual breakin's and fire as long as it's not in the hotest part of it, basement, garage, etc. I've yet to see our local FD loose a basement.

    If you're being targted for your firearms collection, there's no safe made that will help you. They will park in your garage and unload any tools neccesary to get the job done, even if it means hauling it away.
    For God' sake, people buy what you can afford, if it prevents some kid from getting hurt, or a breakin where loose cash, jewelry, electronics and such are targets, the thing just paid for itself. As for fire, you're pretty much fucked any way you look at it.
     
    #32
    Cobracutter said:
    It wont prevent anything. Fire or theft from someone who wants to get into it. I can afford countersnipers scopes, but do I own them? The point is, you are WASTING your money buying that shit. If you want a decent safe for a good value, look at Sturdy. It will not stop someone with a little time and tools, but it has some features to slow them down and the fireproofing is much better than the shit in Liberty/Browning/Ft.Knox and all the other tuna can shit RSC's. Even a $25K Graffunder will destroy the contents if you dont get the safe cooled down (water) and off the coals within a few hours or so of the fire starting. . The safes turn into giant thermal elements to cook everything inside. Can't beat physics.

    Its a false sense of security. Your better off just making sure everything is insured.
    Click to expand...

    Look I get it, no safe will ever stop a determined criminal. But I think you might be missing the point. I don't have garbage bags full of diamonds and I'm not a high profile celebrity. I've got a couple rigles and handguns and that's it. The robber that is going to e in my house is probably going to be either a teenager or someone that is trying to get in and out immediatly. As for the fires, our houses are right on top of each other, of I have a fire, the neighbors will definitely know and call 911, I am expecting the safe to keep my hunks of metal safe from direct fire and smoke for just a little bit of time.
     
    #33
    Understood. Just trying to be realistic with this business. Don't want to see you guys go out and blow $1K+ on a safe, and have the false sense of security that it will stop a thief or a fire.
    Fire is the biggest risk, and to be honest, unless your spending a ton of a media quality safe, most fires get much hotter and stay hot much longer than any of these safes can handle. Best Case you are going to still have damage to the guns/papers/ect and massive rusting once it cools down or all that water vapor from putting out the fire.

    Insurance should always be your #1 priority. With that, who gives a shit if someone steals a gun or 10, let the ins companies buy you new ones instead of try to unfuck some rusted/burnt/melted collection.
     
    #34
    milo 2.0 said:
    Holy shit turdcutter, you're an expert on every topic on this forum. I do agree there's not many safes under 1k worth a shit, why are you preaching to these guys they need to spend 3 months salary on a safe. And anyone who can afford insurance on their guns could afford to build a friggen vault.
    Most safes between 1500.00 to 2500.00 will probably withstand most casual breakin's and fire as long as it's not in the hotest part of it, basement, garage, etc. I've yet to see our local FD loose a basement.

    If you're being targted for your firearms collection, there's no safe made that will help you. They will park in your garage and unload any tools neccesary to get the job done, even if it means hauling it away.
    For God' sake, people buy what you can afford, if it prevents some kid from getting hurt, or a breakin where loose cash, jewelry, electronics and such are targets, the thing just paid for itself. As for fire, you're pretty much fucked any way you look at it.
    Click to expand...

    Cute changing of names. I'm glad you can make a mature response and not act like a 7 year old little baby.
    Prove me wrong then. If I'm wrong than prove it. Go do the research yourself. Any locksmith worth a shit will confirm this. Talk to some insurance agents who specialize in fires and ask them how well gun safes far. There is a reason the actuarial (Big words, I'm sorry) tables don't give you much of a discount on safes or sans safe.

    To be honest, you are completely ignorant of the subject and reality. Most of these "pretty" safes have shitty seals/welds that do not keep the heat and smoke out. Most of them use cheap drywall or similar and then call it fireproofing. Most could be peeled open with a $50 cut off saw or angle grinder in less than 5 mins. What’s the point of some wiz bang door, when the side is thin steel that you can just cut through? The protection is a big ass heavy expensive illusion. Feel free to be a naive idiot, but don’t proliferate your ignorance and get in the way of others who are trying to make informed decisions.

    Not everyone lives on top of a fire dept. Not all fire depts. can respond quickly. Not all fires are the same. Most QUICKLY exceed the so called heat ratings that these cans are "tested" on and as the heat curve rises, they exponentially get hotter on the inside.

    You have no data to back up your claims. Two main ways to get a quality safe, Thicker Steel and poured fireproofing (similar to concrete). This makes them VERY HEAVY.

    Anyone who has more than a grand or two in guns would be a moron to not have firearms insurance. The amount many have here in guns/optics exceeds the cost of their vehicles when new. It's not that expensive and if you can afford a box of ammo a week, then you can afford insurance.

    I know you don't like me, I get it. No reason to bring your personal bias and ignorance here in some attempt to discredit me. Got a problem, then be a man and take it to PM's. No one likes a coward.
     
    #36
    Cobracutter said:
    Cute changing of names. I'm glad you can make a mature response and not act like a 7 year old little baby.
    Prove me wrong then. If I'm wrong than prove it. Go do the research yourself. Any locksmith worth a shit will confirm this. Talk to some insurance agents who specialize in fires and ask them how well gun safes far. There is a reason the actuarial (Big words, I'm sorry) tables don't give you much of a discount on safes or sans safe.

    To be honest, you are completely ignorant of the subject and reality. Most of these "pretty" safes have shitty seals/welds that do not keep the heat and smoke out. Most of them use cheap drywall or similar and then call it fireproofing. Most could be peeled open with a $50 cut off saw or angle grinder in less than 5 mins. What’s the point of some wiz bang door, when the side is thin steel that you can just cut through? The protection is a big ass heavy expensive illusion. Feel free to be a naive idiot, but don’t proliferate your ignorance and get in the way of others who are trying to make informed decisions.

    Not everyone lives on top of a fire dept. Not all fire depts. can respond quickly. Not all fires are the same. Most QUICKLY exceed the so called heat ratings that these cans are "tested" on and as the heat curve rises, they exponentially get hotter on the inside.

    You have no data to back up your claims. Two main ways to get a quality safe, Thicker Steel and poured fireproofing (similar to concrete). This makes them VERY HEAVY.

    Anyone who has more than a grand or two in guns would be a moron to not have firearms insurance. The amount many have here in guns/optics exceeds the cost of their vehicles when new. It's not that expensive and if you can afford a box of ammo a week, then you can afford insurance.

    I know you don't like me, I get it. No reason to bring your personal bias and ignorance here in some attempt to discredit me. Got a problem, then be a man and take it to PM's. No one likes a coward.
    Click to expand...

    That is cute, isn't it?
    First off I never made any claims about anything, especially fire ratings of safes. I did say if the safe was in a basement corner or garage, it might not get as warm. But I did say with a fire, you're probably fucked.

    Anything else I said was from a common sense approach to buying one. I did say if someone was targeting your guns, they'll get them, one way or another, because they probably did their homework. But someone coming in your house through an unlocked door or open garage probably won't have the tools to breach your safe.

    I will concede that a 2k liberty safe will offer the same amount of inherent protection as their 5k model. It's all marketing and what someone thinks they need asthetically.

    I'm not going to say what I think of you, here or pm wise, but don't call me a coward again.
     
    Last edited:
    #37
    ajb008 said:
    I just drove three hours to CE Safes the other day. Well worth the time. His CE safes are awesome starting around 1300. He got me exactly what I wanted for $2,600. I Should be getting my safe in a few days.
    Click to expand...


    Check the video I just posted with the owner. He knows his stuff.
     
    #38
    I was in the same boat you are in. I moved and did not need as big of a safe I currently own. So I looked high and low and yes last black Friday was the day to get a safe. I ended up getting a store brand safe. I really wanted to get a stackon but their locks seemed cheaper and rougher than a locker I had in high school. I ended up paying $900.00 for my new safe and the lock is very nice.

    I think going up into the $1,200 to $1,300 range you could get a much nicer safe. My brother did find a safe for 400 to 500 at a sam’s club in the twin cities. So you can search everyone near you.
     
    #39
    I am in the market right now, but I'm going to be moving here in the near future. I really want something better than a tin can to protect my stuff but I don't want to spend a ton before I move, just to buy a Amsec down the road. I found a C rated safe by "Major Safe" on CL, the guy wants $375 for it delivered. Seems like a good choice, anyone have an opinion?

    I'm waiting for the guy to get back to me on the interior dimensions, it's 40" tall on the outside, so I'm hoping it's at least 35" on the interior. I only need to store an AR and a couple of pistols for now.
     
    #44
    NBly said:
    This video has a ton a quality info.... if you can get past the narrator. There is contact info given.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltK-bDbADa8
    Click to expand...

    I watched this video awhile back and I think any novice would do themselves a great injustice to spend 1k or better without watching this. When I'm ready to buy i will come back to this video with pin and pad to take notes.
     
    #45
    IMO for interior space, and ease of access several smaller safes are a better buy than a single large unit -- and common building materials (dry wall, metal studs, cement board, fiber glass insulation, concrete block) provide a more $$$ efficient solution for fire/ heat protection than the high dollar safes
     
    #46
    I second Cobracutter's point that safes specifically marketed as gun safes are not very good protection. Nonetheless, not everyone is willing or able to spend big money. Someone else mentioned Craigslist... Put those two ideas together and you may find something solid for about a grand if you've got the capability to move it and if you're willing to build your own gun-appropriate racks inside.

    There is a huge secondary market in high security safes used by pawn shops and jewelry stores. They offer MUCH more protection than even $3k gun safes. I saw a large TL-30 on Craigslist for about $2k. Even a TL-15 will run circles around a "good" gun safe. To give you an idea what they're worth in the gun safe world, AMSEC sells a TL-30 gun safe for about $7k if I remember correctly. Subtract the pretty racks and interior lighting and save yourself 5 grand by buying a jewelry safe on Craigslist.

    Plus old safes are cool. Mine has a vintage custom paint job. The following site has a decent description of the various UL ratings. What it doesn't seem to mention is that there are also requirements for the construction of the safe to earn each rating...

    http://www.my-self-defense.com/UL-high-security-safes.html

    Aside from Craigslist there are a number of retailers that specialize in used high security safes. This place is just one example:

    http://www.deansafe.com

    Of course, their prices won't be as good as what you'll get if you find the right safe on Craigslist and a motivated seller.

    As with everything, keep in mind your goals and budget. There's nothing wrong with a $1k gun safe if it meets your needs. These other ideas are just information so you can make up your own mind based on a larger range of options than you'll get if you simply walk into Cabela's and choose between a Liberty and a Cannon..
     
    #47
    cabelas i been looking seems that liberty makes a decent safe. on sale now for 1099 is a 48 gun ..reg 1299 . i just picked one up yesterday... looks good! 750lbs need picts e mail me
     
    #49
    All I can comment on is STAY AWAY FROM BROWNINGS

    Can't think of who makes Brownings, but their crap as far as I'm concerned. Might look nice and pretty, but here's what happened to mine, obvious the weld wasn't worth a shit. This happened opening it one day (top hinge) and never did get a response back from them.

    c8ceda1e.jpg

    4f012c0e.jpg



    Sure it's been mentioned somewhere in here, but make sure their on a concrete floor and an outer wall if possible. If you've got them in a room and there's a fire, chances are it will end up in the basement.
     
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