CZ 455 Varmint Boyds Pro Varmint Stock
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Decided to Rattlecan my Rifle
- Thread starter Chairforce1
- Start date
Sheesh....I thought I was the only one who suffered from "boredom is a terrible thing..." 
Good lookin kit. Ain't nuffin wrong with spray paint-I'm skanky like that too!
Good lookin kit. Ain't nuffin wrong with spray paint-I'm skanky like that too!
Nice work Op and others! I've got my RPR about 99% complete. I'll be adding camo to my dope card holder this weekend.
Just a few extra tips. I used the green automotive masking tape, it's stronger and seals better. I used a single hole punch to make small masking dots to keep paint out of small screw heads and mask other small things such as the parallax and magnification marks. Talk to the scope mfg technical support for advice and to make sure it won't void the warranty. They advised me to not overdue it. You don't need to make it a heavy protective coat, we're just trying to break up the pattern, any gloss and provide colors that will blend with the natural cover and shadows. You can always do touch up during down time. If it looks good at twenty yards and beyond, in the field, it's GOOD!
Just a few extra tips. I used the green automotive masking tape, it's stronger and seals better. I used a single hole punch to make small masking dots to keep paint out of small screw heads and mask other small things such as the parallax and magnification marks. Talk to the scope mfg technical support for advice and to make sure it won't void the warranty. They advised me to not overdue it. You don't need to make it a heavy protective coat, we're just trying to break up the pattern, any gloss and provide colors that will blend with the natural cover and shadows. You can always do touch up during down time. If it looks good at twenty yards and beyond, in the field, it's GOOD!
Looks great, better attention to detail than I give. I use a similar green colored Rustoelum and really enjoy how it blends year round on the prairie and in conifer forests. I gave up using browns and dark greens in my area because the dark colors are too easy to pick out compared to the light colors in my experience.
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I thought alike when I had my fist custom rifle in my hands. I botched my first few attempts due to lack of proper prep work. Detailed de-greasing and taping is key to success. After painting dozens of my own rifles and friends, I would not consider paying someone else to camo my stick. Worst you can do is screw up and learn from it.
I just did my first rattle can job. I was nervous but I’m happy with how they tuned out
Wow, that's nice and you guys really did some nice jobs! Only problem is you'll realize soon that it wears easy. Typically when we spray rifles (in the army, when I was in) it was done originally with removable bow-flage, which was discontinued but may be back on market. It's the best to use. Can change for different situations. Krylon always needed touchup, and changing to other field conditions over and over can build up paint. So thin layers are used and it wears anyway. A bit of paint remover or acetone can remove some so it doesn't build up too.
For those nice patterns you guys did above, I'd probably get a flat clear coat. If hardware store doesn't have a flat clear coat, look at a hobby shop with the paints for planes and armor. They'll have a flat clear coat.
I'd use bow-flage though if it's available. Best there is for quick and dirty camo.
An FDE Cerakote base and then using krylon or bow-flage to add color works well too. Most of the strippers, especially for bow-flage, won't harm the Cerakote. This is a great way to get quick and easy full coverage camo with little paint.
Here's a recent job I did to a tripod, mount and Surefire rail; lighting is bad but you can see how I just sprayed it solid dark OD and then sprayed other colors here and there and then used a piece of fish netting to add diamond patterns in the light and dark colors with over sprays. There is a matching UPA and 200rd. can holder for mounted use. Again, the lighting doesn't do it justice and there's actually more contrast than shown, particularly on that protruding rear leg:
The M2 could have been ordered Cerakoted FDE (or other colors too I think) for $500 I think. Still kicking my ass for not having that done. If it was that price, it was a steal considering it would have been done inside and out prior to assembly. Damn. Oh well, it's still a very, very nice weapon. And a lot of fun.
In a field condition where it's actually deployed, fish netting, burlap and natural vegetation combined with a concealed dug in hasty bunker position with sandbags and camo would pretty much conceal the rest of it.
But the paint was mostly just to protect the finish of the tripod and mount, the UPA and 200rd. attachment needed refinishing. Gives it a bit of character too.
For those nice patterns you guys did above, I'd probably get a flat clear coat. If hardware store doesn't have a flat clear coat, look at a hobby shop with the paints for planes and armor. They'll have a flat clear coat.
I'd use bow-flage though if it's available. Best there is for quick and dirty camo.
An FDE Cerakote base and then using krylon or bow-flage to add color works well too. Most of the strippers, especially for bow-flage, won't harm the Cerakote. This is a great way to get quick and easy full coverage camo with little paint.
Here's a recent job I did to a tripod, mount and Surefire rail; lighting is bad but you can see how I just sprayed it solid dark OD and then sprayed other colors here and there and then used a piece of fish netting to add diamond patterns in the light and dark colors with over sprays. There is a matching UPA and 200rd. can holder for mounted use. Again, the lighting doesn't do it justice and there's actually more contrast than shown, particularly on that protruding rear leg:
The M2 could have been ordered Cerakoted FDE (or other colors too I think) for $500 I think. Still kicking my ass for not having that done. If it was that price, it was a steal considering it would have been done inside and out prior to assembly. Damn. Oh well, it's still a very, very nice weapon. And a lot of fun.
In a field condition where it's actually deployed, fish netting, burlap and natural vegetation combined with a concealed dug in hasty bunker position with sandbags and camo would pretty much conceal the rest of it.
But the paint was mostly just to protect the finish of the tripod and mount, the UPA and 200rd. attachment needed refinishing. Gives it a bit of character too.
I've used krylon and rustoleum and it really doesn't come off easy as you say. The army and my hunting situations are totally different though. I've hunted real hard this season though. I only see a tad bit of paint that scraped off on the front of the magwell which I use as a barricade stop, and a few other areas but nothing major. It also didn't scrape all the way off, I can see the primer I used on those scrapes but not the original finish. I just think it all comes down to how you prepare. I like to clean and degrease it all with alcohol. Then I like to prime, I see many people don't prime and just paint over the original finish. That's cool and all but not me. Then of course, I spray clear over my finished pattern. I've also had a rather hard time removing older paint jobs with acetone so to me it seems the paint sticks relatively well considering it's no more than a 30 dollar paint job. Preparation is key IMO.
i get the sense there's a stock in your picture somewhere, but maybe not... ahaha nice job!
Just did my Howa 308 stock here the other day. Came out pretty good. Need to put the gun back together and see what it looks like. Pretty easy process, just need to prep the stocks correctly for a good finish.
Nice work everyone!
I've done a few rattle-can jobs in the past, but found myself switching to Cerakoat or Duracoat. Cerakoat mainly for things that I can bake and Duracoat air-cure for things that I can't.
Still can't bring myself to do an optic. Getting around all of the knobs and other controls - just impossible without disassembly (which is virtually impossible outside of the factory). Typically end up just using McNett wrap.
I can do strictly concealment painting - wouldn't win any awards though. Done it before on mediocre optics - nothing high-end.
I've done a few rattle-can jobs in the past, but found myself switching to Cerakoat or Duracoat. Cerakoat mainly for things that I can bake and Duracoat air-cure for things that I can't.
Still can't bring myself to do an optic. Getting around all of the knobs and other controls - just impossible without disassembly (which is virtually impossible outside of the factory). Typically end up just using McNett wrap.
I can do strictly concealment painting - wouldn't win any awards though. Done it before on mediocre optics - nothing high-end.
Here is a pictures of my Ar that I did with Krylon and a sponge.
That's a good looking rifle! I've used the sponge technique on a couple of rifles before and that's what I used on my tripod as well. It actually turns out really well, especially when you hit it with a flat clear coat.
RPR and my SPR. I need to do the scope on the SPR. I don’t have an aversion to painting optics. I just haven’t gotten around to it yet.
I really like Cerakote, but recently I have been building a bunch of rifle clones as used by USSOCOM. Researching these guns, almost all had a spray paint finish and all had battle wear. I really like the look of a rifle that has been used hard and has a story to tell. Consequently, I've been giving a lot of my USSOCOM clones a battle worn spray can finish. Here is a very accurate Mk12 Mod 1 Special Purpose Rifle clone. I'm still waiting on my Allen Engineering suppressor.
Colt m16a1 lower
Colt upper
Brownell's Mk12 SPR 5r rifled barrel
Allen Engineering brake and collar for Allen Engineering suppressor
Gas Buster charging handle
M16a1 original surplus stock
Precision Reflex carbon fiber handguard
Precision Reflex gas block w/ front sight
Swans #40 buis (not shown)
Colt bolt
Harris Bipod
m16a1 grip
Nightforce 2.5-10x scope w/ swans rings
Vortex red dot
Colt m16a1 lower
Colt upper
Brownell's Mk12 SPR 5r rifled barrel
Allen Engineering brake and collar for Allen Engineering suppressor
Gas Buster charging handle
M16a1 original surplus stock
Precision Reflex carbon fiber handguard
Precision Reflex gas block w/ front sight
Swans #40 buis (not shown)
Colt bolt
Harris Bipod
m16a1 grip
Nightforce 2.5-10x scope w/ swans rings
Vortex red dot
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I’ve got a bit of hesitation to use something when it’s new and perfect. I want to keep it looking new and perfect for as long as possible. I found that putting paint on them let’s me not care. I don’t abuse my rifles because of it, but I don’t try to keep it perfect by not using it. So when it gets banged off a barricade or it starts raining and is muddy I don’t have that hesitation to not use what I have. If you’ve used quality stuff in your build, using it won’t hurt it. The paint allows me to get past the asthetic issue I’d normally have where I don’t want to get marks on my pretty new rifle.
That's not yelling...THIS IS YELLING!
And to answer your question, I type in a larger font so that I can proof read what I wote so that I appear more educated than my 8th grade education.
And to answer your question, I type in a larger font so that I can proof read what I wote so that I appear more educated than my 8th grade education.
Hahahahaha touché carry on troop!! Seriously though those two clones look top notch!
I'd rather yank up this old thread than start a new one.
I have a Savage Bolt Action Rimfire that I'm going to paint the barrel/action. Not the stock. Tips/tricks for taping off the ejection port and where the bolt enters the receiver/notch where the bolt handle locks down?
I have a Savage Bolt Action Rimfire that I'm going to paint the barrel/action. Not the stock. Tips/tricks for taping off the ejection port and where the bolt enters the receiver/notch where the bolt handle locks down?
Quick method is to roll up some card stock into a tube. Slide it in and let it unroll. Stuff it full of paper towel to make it seal pretty well then use a razor to cut off excess of the roll sticking out the back.
My reasoning as well, I know what I want it to end up.looking like, but doubt the end result will be accomplished
I bought into the Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II. When the surface is prepped right this stuff is a brute. Yes, it does seems to gum up a nozzle pretty quick so order the extra nozzles. I have found when sprayed it will "splatter" as well so it goes on pretty thick sometimes. In the end most everything I've done with Aluma-Hyde is doing well for wear not to mention it looks great.
For painting optics there's a few things that work great. Tape, cotton balls, and Vaseline. Tape makes nice clean lines for covering a larger area IE the turret markings. Wide or multiple strips of tape can cover the objective end pretty easily. Cotton/cotton balls can fill in areas that are difficult to tape up. Vaseline dabbed on with something like a Q-tip allows you to cover smaller spots (say turret index lines) with an element that the paint cannot adhere to thus you wipe it clean and no paint.
Patterns: Nothing isn't useful. Take a stalk of pine needles, spread them a tad. Plant leaves with distinct edges. Even the mesh bags in the supermarket that hold onions and potatoes are awesome. Grab up some cheap laundry bags, nice mesh pattern. Not to mention stickers in whatever shape you like to use.
Took to practicing skills on a cheap stainless tumbler.
For painting optics there's a few things that work great. Tape, cotton balls, and Vaseline. Tape makes nice clean lines for covering a larger area IE the turret markings. Wide or multiple strips of tape can cover the objective end pretty easily. Cotton/cotton balls can fill in areas that are difficult to tape up. Vaseline dabbed on with something like a Q-tip allows you to cover smaller spots (say turret index lines) with an element that the paint cannot adhere to thus you wipe it clean and no paint.
Patterns: Nothing isn't useful. Take a stalk of pine needles, spread them a tad. Plant leaves with distinct edges. Even the mesh bags in the supermarket that hold onions and potatoes are awesome. Grab up some cheap laundry bags, nice mesh pattern. Not to mention stickers in whatever shape you like to use.
Took to practicing skills on a cheap stainless tumbler.
Not much if it doesn’t have an optic on it already. Plug the muzzle and put some cotton balls where the trigger comes through the receiver. Close the dust cover and insert an empty mag. Then spray away.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,702
- 20,402
Well mine is not nearly as nice as the rest of these here but here is a rattle can job I did once. Some nice looking rifles here, guess I’ll go to lowes and stock up on paint for practice!
The rifle I recently bought shipped out yesterday. If this whole coronavirus BS does not cause any more trouble than it already did, my rifle should be with my FFL by Monday.
Does anyone wanna recommend color/pattern ideas?
I hunt will all my rifles so I'll probably use colors that go with the foliage around me but could always introduce new ones.
My rifle will have a McMillan A2 so it's got room for stuff.
I'll post below what my current rifles look like.
I think im leaning towards some sort of skull camo on this new one.
Does anyone wanna recommend color/pattern ideas?
I hunt will all my rifles so I'll probably use colors that go with the foliage around me but could always introduce new ones.
My rifle will have a McMillan A2 so it's got room for stuff.
I'll post below what my current rifles look like.
I think im leaning towards some sort of skull camo on this new one.
The paint on the AR is a proprietary blend of Krylon, sharpie, and touch-up paint from a 97 dodge dually lol? The stock on the Savage is Aervoe, which is my top choice for spray painting rifles.
Just did this as a trial run to see how well the colors looked with each other...
I plan to use those colors on my newest rifle. However, the stencils will be skulls and not those curly funky shapes. I'm also not sure which one of those two lighter colors (sage green or tan) I'll want to use for my skulls. I prefer to only use one but if I can't decide I may just use both.
I had also thought of adding a bit of natural sponge-ing just around the skulls to create even more contrast. Still thinking on it. I may have to paint something else using that method to see if I'll actually like it.
Thoughts???
I plan to use those colors on my newest rifle. However, the stencils will be skulls and not those curly funky shapes. I'm also not sure which one of those two lighter colors (sage green or tan) I'll want to use for my skulls. I prefer to only use one but if I can't decide I may just use both.
I had also thought of adding a bit of natural sponge-ing just around the skulls to create even more contrast. Still thinking on it. I may have to paint something else using that method to see if I'll actually like it.
Thoughts???
I'll get some pictures in the sun tomorrow if I'm able to but for now, this is what I got.
Just finished her.
Just finished her.
I was going to sponge my Bravo but switched gears and bought some stencils. I’m waiting for the rest of my Aervoe to show up but I’ve been trying similar colors on a junk wood stock. I’m thinking of increasing the amount of field drab vs. foliage green. Any suggestions?
Has anyone compared Krylon Fusion to Aervoe? I found out that both are Acrylic Enamels, so I’m trying to figure out if Fusion specifically is equal to Aervoe durability. I know regular Krylon isn’t close. The Aervoe Foliage Green is just too light for my 3rd color and I can get the Fusion Moss Green locally.
Looks good man! This is my latest rattle can job, didn’t go for a specific pattern, just blend of dark browns and dark greens for an Appalachian tone to it.
3rd try is the charm. I didn’t like my store bought stencils so I did the sponge camo. It looked too busy to me. I wanted a large contrasting pattern and I didn’t want the same old thing. I looked at a bunch of different camo jobs online and borrowed a few ideas then made my own stencils with Frog Tape. It still has an Aervoe base coat with Krylon Fusion (flat black and arctic grey) on top. When it fully cures I’ll take some 0000 steel wool to it and get rid of some overspray spots and smooth the ridges between colors. Then I’ll clear coat it with something and be done.
My M40 I did when I was in Japan. Used cheap government generic brand spray paint with no clear coat. Doest last long but wears pretty well. It's funny how I wouldn't hesitate to paint my guns in the military but now when I own my own rifle I sit on the fence about it.
Y'all inspired me to send it on a rattle can paint job on my KRG bravo. Used rustoleum OD green and tan with a sea sponge. Finished it off with a matte clear coat. The polymer really takes well to the paint. All I did for prep was tape and degrease. Didn't feel like I needed to rough up anything.
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