The Forrester seems to be a very common die used on the dillon. I know they are popular in general and I think there was some test done by someone who found the Forrester die to have the least run out but m not sure what that consisted of or anything. I have mostly redding but I'm going to look at the Forrester based on the number of guys who use it ITT.
FYI it’s FORSTER.
I would not assume Forster is inherently better than any other good dies but I’ve loved mine. I doubt you’ll go wrong with any good brand.
I went with a FL honed Forster die for my 6.5cm, so the neck of my brass is only worked about 3-4 thou total.
I used Starline SRP brass as well so I don’t have to change over primer systems as well.
I’ve reloaded precision in 1 pass and I’m not really a fan, so I adopted the 2 tool head process for everything outside of pistol. With 1 pass, I ended up having to go slower, more powder stuck to the mouth, and then you have to wipe every round to get the lube off.
With 2 pass, I deprime, size, and mandrel. Then dry tumble/polish and switch to the 2nd tool head. On the 2nd tool head I’ll prime, mandrel again sometimes (especially with semi autos), powder drop via funnel/tube and dual chargemasters, and seat bullets. A super light crimp if I’m using it in the autos.
Having a casefeeder is real nice and speeds it up a lot if you’re running a 650/750, but I’m not sure it’s worth it on the 550. You’re not trying to go super fast on a 550 for precision and it’s good to get a “feel” on every case. I’m running bulk range 223 brass on my 750, but that’s a whole other game. That’s deprime, primer Pocket swage, size, trim, mandrel all in one pass at about 1 case every 2 sec coming off the machine.
Like someone else said, sanding the shellplate flat helps and learning to tune the shellplate screw just right is key for precision. Other than that, it’s learning the “feel” of the press just like anything else.
IMO, the roller handle is a MUST. Makes life easier and less annoying after thousands of rounds.
The “quick change” kits are only worth it if you’re using everything in the kit. If not, just buy the CNC Whidden tool heads or a standard Dillon tool head. If you’re doing precision, you will most likely drop powder using the funnel so Dillon powder drop isn’t needed for any precision caliber.
As far as space, I would prioritize your Dillon for space and give an extra 6-12” more than you think on each side. In-line Fabrication is the jam for anything mount, lighting, or storage related.
Oh ya… oil the main shaft well and it’ll glide like a glass ball bearing. My first 550 I bought for $100 and it was covered in surface rust. Cleaned it up and Lubed it and it’s got probably 15k+rds on it now
