Dillon Super 1050/RL1050/RL1100 Loading

[padom]

Well I just picked up the second Super 1050 today with the Ammobot and Mr. Bulletfeeder all setup and ready to go for 9mm. Gonna tear it down, clean it up, replace any wear items then grease it up and get it back together.

Came with the Immortobot control box with Case/Bullet sensor, Case Size sensor and primer sensor. Ammobot is a Rev3 so latest version and fw before Dillon bought them.

 

[padom]

Not as dirty as the first 1050 I tore apart, cleaned and rebuilt a few weeks ago. Tear down is underway

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Not as dirty as the first 1050 I tore apart, cleaned and rebuilt a few weeks ago. Tear down is underway

Wow man, that's really cool. You really have a serious set up.

 

[padom]

Wow man, that's really cool. You really have a serious set up.

I should probably buy stock in Dillon. hahaha. 2 x Super 1050's, 2 x XL650's, 1x 550c. 3 Case feeders, 3 Mr. Bulletfeeders, god 50-60 toolheads between all 5 Dillon presses...

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I should probably buy stock in Dillon. hahaha. 2 x Super 1050's, 2 x XL650's, 1x 550c. 3 Case feeders, 3 Mr. Bulletfeeders, god 50-60 toolheads between all 5 Dillon presses...

Did you consider just going with the new genesis machine at all? I mean, if it ain't broke don't fix it but just curious if you looked at that give how much equipment cost you have with the dillon set ups

 

[padom]

Did you consider just going with the new genesis machine at all? I mean, if it ain't broke don't fix it but just curious if you looked at that give how much equipment cost you have with the dillon set ups

Nope, because I got both Super 1050's with 3 toolheads, 1 all setup ready to go for 223, the other with ammobot and all setup for 9mm ready to go. Dies, sensors, case feeders, mr. bulletfeeders for just over half what that Genesys is going for...

 

[padom]

Well, all torn down, cleaned up and bearings soaking in mineral spirits per dillon.. get it back together tomorrow.

Looks like new again!

Also, I talked to Dillon automation today. They suggested using a bicycle chain lube call Triflow on the ammobot chains as well as all other parts that normally call for 5w-30 oil. Less shit sticks to it, high lubricity and metal wearing protective properties..

 

[padom]

Got more time then I thought tonight. All clean. Bearings dried and repacked with red tacky grease. Everything back together, greased, lubed and some wear parts replaced.

just hooked it back up and it's running smooth as silk.

Waiting in some parts from FW Arms and Mighty Armory to get this thing setup the way I want it for 9mm .

 

[padom]

After processing 3000 or so 9mm cases and tumbling...I got the loading toolhead setup and dialed in today.

These DA Pre-set nose guides are pretty Awesome. I set this one up for Xtreme 124gr HP...I have a bunch more to setup for 147gr and 165gr bullets for subs.

As noted in the product description...these are only a drop in replacement for post 2018 Mr. Bulletfeeders....you have to widen the nose guide opening on pre 2018 MBF for this DAA pre set nose guides to install

 

[padom]

9mm testing on the 1050/Ammobot after tuning everything to make sure its running smoothly

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

After processing 3000 or so 9mm cases and tumbling...I got the loading toolhead setup and dialed in today.

These DA Pre-set nose guides are pretty Awesome. I set this one up for Xtreme 124gr HP...I have a bunch more to setup for 147gr and 165gr bullets for subs.

As noted in the product description...these are only a drop in replacement for post 2018 Mr. Bulletfeeders....you have to widen the nose guide opening on pre 2018 MBF for this DAA pre set nose guides to install

Thats slick man. I'm so grateful for this thread. This thread will help me so much when I set up my 1050/750/650( not sure which direction I need to go but a 1050 is definitely going to happen, just not sure if the other will be a 650 or 750 or do 2- 1050.

We figured out a way to put the office stuff in the new guest bedroom so the entire space of the other room can be my reloading room. Thats a huge deal to me. I will have a 14x14 room to set up however I want now, which was the original plan.

 

[padom]

Thats slick man. I'm so grateful for this thread. This thread will help me so much when I set up my 1050/750/650( not sure which direction I need to go but a 1050 is definitely going to happen, just not sure if the other will be a 650 or 750 or do 2- 1050.

We figured out a way to put the office stuff in the new guest bedroom so the entire space of the other room can be my reloading room. Thats a huge deal to me. I will have a 14x14 room to set up however I want now, which was the original plan.

That was the point of this thread. Was to try and get as much info in one place to help people with setup, tweaks, mods, parts, etc. For 1050/1100's...

My room is about the same size... 15x15.. but I'm thinking of a new layout to redo my press locations with the addition of these 2 1050's....

Right now I have 4 large sturdy benches and the rest of my wall length has multiple safes and a large floor to ceiling deep metal components storage cabinet..

Think I'm going to change it up to one entire length of wall is all blue...and move my other stuff to another bench (annealer, Henderson trimmer, scales, etc)

 

[Gustav7]

@padom -- on your 223 setup, are you not lubing cases with the carbide die?

Or are you running a prep toolhead with lube, then tumbling and loading on a seperate toolhead?

 

[padom]

@padom -- on your 223 setup, are you not lubing cases with the carbide die?

Or are you running a prep toolhead with lube, then tumbling and loading on a seperate toolhead?

I'm running 2 toolheads. Case prep toolhead with lanolin light spray that deprimes, swage, sizes, trims, 21st Century mandrel to get final neck tension then M die to flare for MBF on loading toolhead. Then I tumble...then I load with fully prepped and tumbled brass on my loading toolhead...

 

[pmclaine]

Not Padom but I’d always lube.

Use the lanolin alcohol stuff and ride it in some corn cob when done.

Stuck case ain’t worth it.

 

[padom]

Not Padom but I’d always lube.

Use the lanolin alcohol stuff and ride it in some corn cob when done.

Stuck case ain’t worth it.

Exactly. I find no reason not too. I process many thousands of 5.56 at once. So I lube, process and tumble to fill bins. Then it's ready to go when I'm ready to load up ammo

 

[Gustav7]

Not Padom but I’d always lube.

Use the lanolin alcohol stuff and ride it in some corn cob when done.

Stuck case ain’t worth it.

I have always used lube for rifle as well, but I read his original postings wrong. I also have never found a way to do rifle in 1 pass that I actually liked doing.

No lube on 9mm, and just so much easier. Might be why I shoot pistol so much more lol.

 

[padom]

. I haven't seen a benefit yet of loading prepped rifle on the 1100 that I can't already do on the 650 tho.

I.thought the same thing until I ran off 24lb of WC846 M855 and M193 5.56 on my 1050 last week. For plinking ammo it's stupid fast and easy to crank out way more ammo faster than my 650's by far. It's actually even smoother. I like the shell plate staying still vs it moving up and down on the 650...

 

[padom]

I guess I'm stuck on the mechanical geometry. I don't really understand how the press could run faster when the handle has to travel the same distance. I could see if the primer system was more precise and rigid and it alleviated some of the primer versus primer pockets misalignment issues you get with the rotary style 650 system. The extra tool head stations don't help when all you're doing is charging, dropping a bullet, and seating. At that point you're limited to the amount of time it takes to raise and lower a handle. I'm loading 308 for my large frame AR right now on the 650 this evening and it's pretty smooth. My 1100 actually gives a bit more resistance in the ram than the 650. If I lower the handle and let it go, it doesn't just fly up. I am still running it as it came from Dillon set up for 223. The ram on a 650 wants to move itself; much smoother.

I'll disagree. I actually went to the 1050 specifically for more stations, more consistent adjustable priming, M die location to flare case mouth so bullets don't topple off from Mr. Bulletfeeder, no priming on the up stroke, smooth reliable trouble free swaging. I even thought I read a 1050 had a shorter stroke vs a 650... I'm not positive in thst one I'll have to compare them.

 

[padom]

I went to the 1100 for some of the same reasons you mentioned but all the ones that happened during case prep like swaging. I was referring to loading already prepped rifle brass. Takes 3 maybe 4 stations if you want to crimp. You can use an M die on a 650 FYSA, I've been doing it for a couple years now.

I agree you can but you then have to sacrifice a decapping die in station 1 that ensures nothing in the flash holes....

With a dedicated case prep toolhead I had no stations left for a M die on the 650... (MA Blue flicker decapping die in 1, sizing die in 2, trim die RT1500 in 4 and 21st century mandrel in 5... so I had no room there.. and had to sacrifice on loading

I can load a lot of ammo on my 650 thats for sure.. have for years. But I loaded way more much faster in the 1050 with less problems and smoother reloading. I do have LOTS of upgrades and tweaks on both my 1050s so idk maybe thst makes a difference

The 650 priming system sucks.

 

[padom]

I will absolutely agree on the priming system.

I just ran a simpler case prep tool head. Decapping die, trim die and then M die for both expanding and belling. But again that is case prep. For loading I have never needed an extra position. I have ordered all the other ancillary tool heads for the 1100 to be able to load on it with the suspicion that the priming system might make it worth it for me. The problem is if I go that route then I don't really have a reason to own a 650. If I don't use it for case prep or loading then what do I have it for, lol?

I'm running into that same dilema/thought.. I set out to buy an RL1100 for dedicated 5.56 processing and loading. I ended up with two 1050's fully loaded both with MBF's and 1 with Ammobot. I'm now thinking of getting rid of 1 of my 650's but I'll keep 1 for 10mm, 300Blk, 308 and 6.5cm AR processing/loading... just got more toolheads and conversion kit for 45 ACP for 1050.

I have so many damn 650 toolheads and conversion kits I'm dredding buying all them for the 1050s and they are much more expensive. So I'll hang on to 1

 

[padom]

Does anyone else here have an 1100? How freely does your RAM move? If I let go of the handle in any portion of the downstroke or upstroke It will not move on its own. Not just because of the ratcheting system on the back that prevents it but just some sort of internal resistance in the press.

Interesting. I don't get that. I also have Super 1050 thst are used but in excellent condition and run smooth as butter

 

[padom]

That is what kept me from buying an 1100 for so damn long. Tooling back up to the same expansive capability but with $250 conversion kits and tool heads. Painful.

Maybe there's a lesson in here for someone else here lurking and reading this thread that is on the fence between a 750 or an 1100. If you go too deep down the rabble hole with a 750, you will have a hard time convincing yourself to buy all the same shit again, but with tool heads that cost three times as much. In that sense, might be worth just starting off with an 1100 or 1050 if you know you're going to do mass production.

100% agree. If I didn't get these 1050's, 4 toolheads, conversion kits, ammobot, mbf's all for under $4k than I'd probably still be running my 2 650s only for the reasons you mentioned

 

[padom]

Does the 1050 have that ratcheting one-way deal on it?

It does but it came removed on both...I was told "nobody runs them they suck". I put it back on my manual 1050 after tearing it down clean and lubing it before running off 24lb of WC846 5.56. Zero issues ran great

It's not on my Ammobot 1050 but it can't be in there anyway with the automation.

 

[pmclaine]

Pulling the ratchet off my 1050 was one of the best mods.

 

[padom]

Hmmm. I wouldn't say my press isn't smooth per se, and I just went down and played with it a little bit without brass in it. There are areas in the stroke where it will try to move back up on its own but they're very short and limited. The resistance is coming from one of the guide rods. I am running it the way it came set up from Dillon. I don't think the guide rod is out of alignment, but you can tell there is contact being made between the guide rod and the hole it rides in. If I let go of the handle on a 650 on the downstroke the ram would fly down and the handle would fly up.

Loosen up your nut and re-align your toolhead maybe? Lock ring too tight? I put Armonov ball bearing lock rings on both mine. Stupid smooth. I also just put FW Arms shellplates on them. 1 also has the bushing and alignment rod and no spring on the back. Smooth and perfectly aligned.

 

[padom]

Hmmm. I wouldn't say my press isn't smooth per se, and I just went down and played with it a little bit without brass in it. There are areas in the stroke where it will try to move back up on its own but they're very short and limited. The resistance is coming from one of the guide rods. I am running it the way it came set up from Dillon. I don't think the guide rod is out of alignment, but you can tell there is contact being made between the guide rod and the hole it rides in. If I let go of the handle on a 650 on the downstroke the ram would fly down and the handle would fly up.

I've been processing range pickup 223 brass on the 1100. I'm using the FW spring-loaded decaping die and the swage hold down die. Between the swage hold down die pushing against the bottom of the case, the swaging action, and the occasional piece of brass with a fat web getting conformed in the trim die, it is an arm workout running this 1100. Nothing effortless about it, lol.

Man I didn't feel thst way and I ran 10,000 pieces I'd pickup 5.56 last weekend. Maybe time to tear it all back down and clean and lube and adjust and make sure everything's running smooth maybe?

 

[padom]

Thanks for the tips. I need to take this thing apart and shake it out. I have been putting that off and trying to just run it the way Dillon shipped it. I think I need to dedicate some time and get my hands dirty with it.

I did that on both presses before ever loading a single round. Both presses completely torn down in pieces, checked every piece, cleaned, lubed. Tested each piece as I put back together and tuned..

 

[padom]

Ya, I'll do that. I can attest that a bunch of resistance comes from brass getting formed in the trim die and swaging tho. I don't think that's a press issue. I get the occasional popping of the swage rod coming out of the primer pocket. Do you get that?

I think the FW swage hold down die creates some resistance because it is pushing the case against the swage rod tip.

Do you ever come across a case with a blown out web from some shit AR? Do you just pull those out and toss them when you come across them? I've been muscling those through the trim die.

Ahhhh. I'm glad you said that! This is the very reason why I size with a MA 223FL sizing die before the trim die. I set it to get my shoulder bump... then the dillon carbide 223 trim die is set to not change any bump and just trim to length.. problem is...my trim die gives WAY excessive neck tension which is why I run the 21st Century Turning mandrel after the trim die then the M die last... no resistance.. and my brass comes out exactly how I want it

No I don't ever get popping with the swage. Did you set the swage die with a swage setup case?

 

[padom]

Do you ever come across a case with a blown out web from some shit AR? Do you just pull those out and toss them when you come across them? I've been muscling those through the trim die.

I didn't get any of these in the 10k cases I just did. I did run into I think 4 berdain primed and I pulled them and tossed them. Beauty of the MA decapper...no bent pins

 

[padom]

Lol, what is a swage setup case?

Haha. It's a special case thst has the bottom of case and web cut away so you properly set hold down and swage rod insert....

 

[padom]

AmmoBrass Swage Setter

The AmmoBrass Swage Setter is for use with any swaging devices such as Dillon Super Swage 600, Dillon 1050 presses, and almost any other swaging device to assist you in properly setting your swage rod and swage back-up die. These are caliber specific. You will need a Swage Setter in each caliber...

www.ammobrass.com

 

[padom]

I am running the m die in the last station to set neck tension and bell the tip of the neck a little bit. I get really good neck tension just using that. How does using a separate sizing die eliminate overcoming a blown out web? Seriously asking. Not trying to be a punk
View attachment 8225455
View attachment 8225456

No you misunderstood, the seperate FL sizing die I was saying is what stops all that resistance your saying your getting from the trim die... I had that same issue years ago on my 650 so I always run a Forster or MA FL sizing die to set my bump before the trim die. Brass goes in that trim die so much smoother for trimming..


I don't recall getting any blown out web brass.

 

[padom]

I'll try to find a piece to show you. Definite ring around the .200 datum line. Smashes brass down to the angle creating the rim and leaves a lip. Some MidwayUsa AR Stoner shit

Yea post a pic. I didn't run into any of that

 

[Hoser]

@Hoser is this why you roll size first?

Yup.

 

[Hoser]

Just a little resistance at the very bottom of the stroke. But I am just trying to barely remove the crimp.

Now days my Mark7 does all the work processing brass. By the time I get around to loading 223/308 and most all pistol calibers, they have already been processed so actually loading them is totally painless. I just let that machine chew through brass while I do something else in the reloading room.

 

[pmclaine]

AmmoBrass Swage Setter

The AmmoBrass Swage Setter is for use with any swaging devices such as Dillon Super Swage 600, Dillon 1050 presses, and almost any other swaging device to assist you in properly setting your swage rod and swage back-up die. These are caliber specific. You will need a Swage Setter in each caliber...

www.ammobrass.com

Taking a dremel and sawcutting a piece of brass at the base to expose the web and primer pocket will do similar.

Might even be better as you can use a piece of the most prolific brass you have and get a better fit to your brass. It's a poors trick.

I'm impressed you peeps found dies other than Dillon that will work in your presses.

I found with mine if I wanted to upgrade a seater die to say a Redding the limited opening of the jaw wouldn't allow for the sliding sleeve on .308, never mind trying a 30-06.

Definitely two size dies .

I shoot for 90% sizing in a Dillon size/decap in station 1.

The rapid trim does the final bit just to ensure brass is snug enough it won't spin. Full sizing in that kills momentum. It creates necks that require being opened or your loading head becomes a chore and you shave bullet jackets.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

That was the point of this thread. Was to try and get as much info in one place to help people with setup, tweaks, mods, parts, etc. For 1050/1100's...

My room is about the same size... 15x15.. but I'm thinking of a new layout to redo my press locations with the addition of these 2 1050's....

Right now I have 4 large sturdy benches and the rest of my wall length has multiple safes and a large floor to ceiling deep metal components storage cabinet..

Think I'm going to change it up to one entire length of wall is all blue...and move my other stuff to another bench (annealer, Henderson trimmer, scales, etc)

Yeah that layout is what I'm trying to figure out so I don't have to move everything around when I add those machines or whichever machines later. I will have most stuff on the inline qc mounts but I'd like to have some idea of where the bigger machines "should" go.

I like the idea of having them all on the long wall and having the other stuff on the shorter wall (I put a sound insulated closet that's 3 feet wide in one corner for tumblers, powder storage and such, and have a foot to the bedroom closet in just it's closet space in the same corner) so I have one 14' wall and one that's about 9' that I planned to kind of have bench and machines and all on. The only thing I guess is making sure there's enough space between the machines so I'd be interested in how you space yours if you move em.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

That is what kept me from buying an 1100 for so damn long. Tooling back up to the same expansive capability but with $250 conversion kits and tool heads. Painful.

Maybe there's a lesson in here for someone else here lurking and reading this thread that is on the fence between a 750 or an 1100. If you go too deep down the rabble hole with a 750, you will have a hard time convincing yourself to buy all the same shit again, but with tool heads that cost three times as much. In that sense, might be worth just starting off with an 1100 or 1050 if you know you're going to do mass production.

That's me. That's what I'm trying to decide about. What direction to go next and how to best lay it out so this convo is very beneficial for me.

 

[pmclaine]

Good tips. I haven't had an issue with OAL yet. I might run into that on the 1100 with 308. Where I have been borderline with non-Dillon dies is how low they have to be screwed into the tool head. On my Harrels 6 Dasher sizing die I get one thread of engagement on the lock ring in order to bump the shoulders. And I have to mount the lock ring under the tool head on 300BO trim dies. Even with the short trim toolhead.

But now I think I need to check that 308 seater on the 1100....

I note that the new model presses don’t show 30-06 as a loading option while the 1050 does.

My guess was that the workspace is even more limited.

My 1050 runs 30-06, .308, .223, 45ACP, .38 HBWC, 9mm……I only believe in missionary for sex positions also.

.223 is the only rifle caliber I can run a Redding micrometer seater with. I even tried trimming the sliding sleeve on a .308 Redding comp seater and it was barely seated in the tool head.

Pretty sure I added micrometer seater stems on my .308/30-06 Dillon dies to get some measured adjustments.

My source for tool heads has been the Hide PX. I sit in my buying Hide and snipe them.

My sniping/buying is done with my more than adequate caliber selections.

It’s been at least a year since I have loaded anything and with my newly limited shooting I still have plenty o ammo.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

On one of my benches I established a 4 hole footprint that was a little wider and deeper than the inline Fab mounts. I had 3 different presses and mounts on this bench. I cut three 3/4" plywood squares and drilled the new 4 hole footprint I drilled into the bench to match. Then I mounted the inline Fab mounts to them. That way I could move all three of my presses to each of the positions. Additionally I ensured the 4 hole footprint overlapped with itself so I could slide a press one complete position over or a half position over. I would prefer to use square steel bases instead of plywood. I emailed Inline Fab and asked if he was interested in making the steel plates. He replied with a one sentence email. "Use thicker wood" Fucking lame response.

It would be another level of effort and expense to try to embed 8 inline Fab quick release plates in the bench.

Well, since I'm a custom builder I have a shop and I also have a good friend who has a legit cabinet shop and metal shop that can I can make anything I want in it so I could do that. Can you explain your purpose for these plates a little though? Was it just to take the place if inline qc plates or did you have qc plates attached to these plywood plates? Was it to make an "even" 4 hole layout that you could just screw down?

 

[padom]

Lol, I was just going to try putting a Dillon FL sizing die before the trim die but there's no space on this 1100, GDamint!

Where are you putting it?
View attachment 8225489
View attachment 8225490

Very first station in place of your decapper in station 1

 

[padom]

I woke up this morning and realized I was being dense last night. You just aren't using a decaping die. Your sizing and decaping all in one.

"BuTIBouGHTthisFAncYDECapPingDIe!"

Hahaha. I woke up hoping they caught this murderer on the lamb in my backyard but no not yet. He stole a 10/22 last night after a homeowner shot at him 7x and fucking missed.


Anyway...yes I run the Mighty Armory Gold 223 FL sizing die with their Super Duty pins and spring loaded cap in station 1. Sizes like butter and no primer pull back thst I got with non-spring loaded Sizing/Decapping dies...

Use your FW decapper in station 1 on your loading toolhead to clear flash holes.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

The inline fab QC system generally exist on top of a mount to allow you to swap different presses on the same mount. I don't want to mount my 550 on my 4-in micro mount that the 650 sits on. And likewise, I don't want to mount the 650 on the tall 550 mount. I wanted the ability to move the press and mounts to any position on the bench without having to pull the bench-top off, drill new holes and put new threaded inserts in. Kind of future proofing your work when installing a benchtop. So the new four hole footprint pattern is just a common footprint and the wooden squares/ plates are just adapting the various mount footprints to a common four hole footprint.

So if you're not sure how to set up your reloading room, benchtop, press layout.... by establishing a common footprint, you can more easily swap them around later on. Inline fab does make a QC that mounts to the top of a bench. That is what I was referring to by being a very expensive solution. If you wanted to mount eight of those QC plates on your bench for future possible mount and press locations. That would be kind of silly

Yeah ok. I'm with you now. Sorry I wad up all night with a puking toddler..... so I'm slow

Yeah I can easily make my own steel plates or wooden plates to be able to change the mount locations around if the inline set up is just too much. I considered a recess track system but that has its own issues so I think I'd rather do something like what you're talking about and just make plates that each mount will attach to that also has a square and even number layout.

 

[padom]

Maybe if you told someone he was in your backyard they would have...

Not my actual backyard. haha. I meant in my area when I say my backyard. Hes actually a few miles from me. My best friends house and his sons elementary school are in the current perimeter and shelter in place zone.

 

[Huskydriver]

Okay... 1050 vs 1100... I have neither but thinking of doing a 1100 for 223 and 9mm.

What's the biggest difference between the two parts interchangeability wise?

 

[Huskydriver]

Also @padom you decide if your letting a 650 go?

 

[padom]

Think you could stuff it into 5 medium flate rate boxes for a low shipping cost of $75?

That's a hard NO

 

[padom]

Also @padom you decide if your letting a 650 go?

I haven't made up my mind yet. But it's probably going to be a yes, 1 will get posted in the PX but it's not going to be cheap with MBF, Case Feeder and complete conversions for 9mm, 45acp, 223rem, dies, decappers, 2 toolheads for each caliber and Dillon toolhead stands for every toolhead...

I won't be in a hurry to sell and won't break it up unless I have multiple people wanting all the parts at once.

Looking for someone that's all in on a complete package that wants to save money vs going and buying everything I did new.

 

[padom]

Just received my OnPoint Manufacturing CNC toolheads with the Threaded primer station. Really nice. Especially with the much thicker shell plunger cam..