Gunsmithing DIY savage bolt lift kit...

[SmokinAce]

Re: DIY savage bolt lift kit...

I found the bearing at ACE Hardware for 15 or so cents. I am not sure where "here" is so I can't help you there.

 

[USMCSpeedy]

Re: DIY savage bolt lift kit...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SmokinAce</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I found the bearing at ACE Hardware for 15 or so cents. I am not sure where "here" is so I can't help you there. </div></div>

When you live in rural USA, your local ACE may not stock these. I have to drive more than 20 miles just to get a fine thread bolt and then they may not have the side I need. I just posted the links to where I found them online for other people like me who live in the sticks 20 miles from hickville.

 

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

BTW:
Axeman or anyone else who is doing the lift kit themselves: I have found it to be advantageous in reducing lift to drill a hole in the center of the BAS, that is slightly larger in DIA than the bearing used and about 1/16" deep to create a concave surface for the ball to ride in. But I have always used the purchased kit, so I don't know how far the bearing sticks out of the 38 case head. Basically you want about .005 between the case head and the BAS. I believe the reason it increases effectiveness is that it aids in retention of bearing grease and reduces the surface stress on both the BAS and the bearing. Regardless of the why, it improves the lift on all of my savages. And all of my actions are professionally timed/trued, so would imagine the affects would be that much more noticeable on factory tuned actions.

Before I found your post I was thinking the same thing, a hole drilled in the center of the BAS, then polished and chamfered should make the ball bearing ride much smoother and decrease the resistance even more.

 

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

Axeman, you measured wrong. Don't trim your BAS that much. You only need to trim the BAS by the amount that will protrude from the cocking sleeve.

Here I showed you what you need to measure.

That's incorrect, he had the measurement correct. You need to compensate for the entire thickness as this is how much the firing pin spring is going to be compressed if you want to keep everything in spec.

 

[Ring]

That's incorrect, he had the measurement correct. You need to compensate for the entire thickness as this is how much the firing pin spring is going to be compressed if you want to keep everything in spec.

the body the the 38 case dont compress the spring, it will slip inside the shroud.. only the case head "rim" will

 

[AZ_GUN_NUT]

the body the the 38 case dont compress the spring, it will slip inside the shroud.. only the case head "rim" will

Thanks, I was thinking about this later on and wasn't sure if the firing pin sat that high in the cocking sleeve. So with that minor of a difference I guess you wouldn't need a spacer after all? I'm thinking about doing this to my 2 Savages and formulating a game plan.

 

[wchartz]

oh and the mod that jumped you, that was good old Fred from SSS in all his self important glory. Disregard him, he has essentially turned SSF into his personal marketing tool and is a prick to boot. I have an action tuned by him (when I was new to savages and believed his hype), and several tuned by Kevin rayhill from Stockade. If you want to talk to someone who knows savages like he was born with one in his hand, and builds them like they were his invention, talk to Kevin. If you want to get half ass answers/service and the runaround from a self important, self proclaimed savage guru, go ahead and deal with Fred.

For all the Fred fans
The above post is my opinion based on my experiences, if you don't like it, call someone who cares.

Ditto that about Fred at SSS.

 

[TXSavage10PC]

Good evening Gents,

I joined SH because I've been finding very helpful posts and am going through this my self now as a new Precision Carbine owner with a cocking indicator. Do you have a suggestion as to how I can turn down the cocking indicator?

Thanks and cheers!

for that matter the indicator could be turned down enough to still act as an indicator and be small enough in diameter to go thru the thrust washers... it would be thinner, maybe an "O" ring in there to keep the inside sealed, maybe not. but it would still be an indicator, just skinnier

 

[TXSavage10PC]

What tool did you use to turn down the cocking indicator? I have a PC as well and would prefer to lessen the diameter rather than just saw off the cocking indicator.

Thanks and please advise,

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">sweet. if you will, for the guys with a savage 10pc or anyother with a cocking indicator, would you mind taking some pics and listing the parts numbers and place where you got the thrust bearing. it will help fill out that bit which i know nothing about. any pics would help too. glad you got some use out of the thread </div></div>

I have the 10PC with the cocking indicator. I ordered the 5 x 12 x 4 thrust bearing from www.avidrc.com/ Sorry no pics.

The cocking indicator was about .053 to big, so we turned it down .054. We also removed the thickness of the bearing assembly from the collar. It made a nice difference it the way it cycles. I still need to polish the bearing surfaces that come into play when it cycles.

One question I had was; is there a need to adjust the spring pressure, and if so how do you know whats correct?