I'm thinking about trying some of the 208 gr ELD-M bullets from Hornady in my 308. I see that they sell a seating stem for their dies to go with the projectiles. Do you guys know if this is mandatory gear? I currently have a Lee seating die.
Do I need the seating stem to load ELD-M?
- Thread starter OldRussian
- Start date
I would guess that the seating stem only fits Hornady dies.
Having said that, I have loaded about 600-700 of 208 grain ELD-M and 212 grain ELD-X with the regular stem and have not had a single issue with them.
I cant tell if it affects the accuracy potential, but they have still given me first round hits all the way out to 1200 yards with my 300 WM. So for me, its been a non issue.
Having said that, I have loaded about 600-700 of 208 grain ELD-M and 212 grain ELD-X with the regular stem and have not had a single issue with them.
I cant tell if it affects the accuracy potential, but they have still given me first round hits all the way out to 1200 yards with my 300 WM. So for me, its been a non issue.
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If the projectile fits into your current seating stem and contact is on the ogive instead of the bullet tip, you will probably be OK. If contact is on the tip, you'll need to get some type of VLD seating stem. I don't know how interchangeable the Hornady seating stem is with other manufacturers dies.
As Howland said any VLD stem will work. I default to the VLD for them but that is solely based off the fact that my Honady die I use for 7mmrm the standard stem was contacting the bullet tip before the ogive so I've always just got both type stems for any die.
An easy way to know if you are good or not is to take the stem out of the die and take a couple bullets and just place the bullet into the stem in your hands. If there is much wobble you probably need to get the VLD. You'll be able to tell pretty easy if it's not going to work. The stem and bullet will move independent of each other.
I've only used 175, 162, 147, and 140 ELDs so I can't speak to the 208.
An easy way to know if you are good or not is to take the stem out of the die and take a couple bullets and just place the bullet into the stem in your hands. If there is much wobble you probably need to get the VLD. You'll be able to tell pretty easy if it's not going to work. The stem and bullet will move independent of each other.
I've only used 175, 162, 147, and 140 ELDs so I can't speak to the 208.
If you find that your seating depth is inconsistent by more than 1 thou you probably have a bad bullet to stem mesh also.
This would pertain to a constant issue not say 1 out of 10 is off but if you feel like you are constantly chasing depth change to get it seated proper.
This would pertain to a constant issue not say 1 out of 10 is off but if you feel like you are constantly chasing depth change to get it seated proper.
Good deal. Just keep an eye out for consistent seating depth and you should be good to go
Loaded up a 5 rung ladder. They seated within a few thou of each other. I will shoot them once my Labradar shows up in the mail.
208 eld m
Lapua Brass
Win LRP
40-42 GR of IMR 4320
OAL 2.875 to fit MDT mag with binder plate
208 eld m
Lapua Brass
Win LRP
40-42 GR of IMR 4320
OAL 2.875 to fit MDT mag with binder plate
I have a Redding seating dies and have not had any major issues seating the Hornady 6mm ELDm and .30 cal ELDX bullets. Like everyone else is saying, check for seating depth inconsistencies.
I have not reloaded 208 ELD-M in .30 cal however the 285 ELD-M in .338 will touch the tip instead of the ogive if you don’t get the recommended seater stem.
I was having issues with a standard .308 lee seating stem with 168 eld m deforming the tips giving inconsistent seating depth from the deformation. So I used Jb weld to modify the stem. Here is what I did.
1. Original 2part jb weld, isopropyl alcohol, vaseline, one bullet, one case neck sized with little run out, bullet press and your seating die, nitrile gloves, a toothpick and some paper towel.
2. Put on gloves
3. Remove the stem from the die clean with Alcohol
4. Mix up a small amount of JBWeld, stir with toothpick.
5. Dip the tip bullet in vaseline . Not clumps, just a thin layer. This keeps the JB weld from bonding to the bullet. Dont cover the whole bullet in vasoline, just the part of ogive that is coming into contact with the jbweld. That would make it slick to handle.
6. Fill the inside of seating stem completely with jb weld, wiping any access with paper towel
7.Install your seating die in the press, put the neck sized case in the shell holder. lubercate the neck
8. Push the bullet straight, all the way into the stem, do this slowly and clean the access as it comes out. Hold it there with you fingers.
9. Put the jbwelded bullet/stem in the neck of the case.
9. Now pull the arm of the press down on the bullet/stem combo. Set the bullet into the neck, but not full normal depth. I used 2 towels to keep tension. Be sure you do this straight as possible. Let it sit and cure 15-24hrs.
10. Use a vise and plyers and pull the bullet and stem apart.
11. Take a small drill bit and drill out the tip. I used a 1/8 bit.
12. Get some polishing compound and polish the inside of the stem using a bullet, kinda like grinding valves in a cylinder head.
13. Clean and use.
Zero marks or deformation even with compressed loads and much more consistent depths .
1. Original 2part jb weld, isopropyl alcohol, vaseline, one bullet, one case neck sized with little run out, bullet press and your seating die, nitrile gloves, a toothpick and some paper towel.
2. Put on gloves
3. Remove the stem from the die clean with Alcohol
4. Mix up a small amount of JBWeld, stir with toothpick.
5. Dip the tip bullet in vaseline . Not clumps, just a thin layer. This keeps the JB weld from bonding to the bullet. Dont cover the whole bullet in vasoline, just the part of ogive that is coming into contact with the jbweld. That would make it slick to handle.
6. Fill the inside of seating stem completely with jb weld, wiping any access with paper towel
7.Install your seating die in the press, put the neck sized case in the shell holder. lubercate the neck
8. Push the bullet straight, all the way into the stem, do this slowly and clean the access as it comes out. Hold it there with you fingers.
9. Put the jbwelded bullet/stem in the neck of the case.
9. Now pull the arm of the press down on the bullet/stem combo. Set the bullet into the neck, but not full normal depth. I used 2 towels to keep tension. Be sure you do this straight as possible. Let it sit and cure 15-24hrs.
10. Use a vise and plyers and pull the bullet and stem apart.
11. Take a small drill bit and drill out the tip. I used a 1/8 bit.
12. Get some polishing compound and polish the inside of the stem using a bullet, kinda like grinding valves in a cylinder head.
13. Clean and use.
Zero marks or deformation even with compressed loads and much more consistent depths .
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...current Hornady dies ship with a stem that is compatible with their ELD-M and A-MAX series of bullets, the new A-TIP series uses a separate stem.
...the ELD-M/A-MAX stem also works for Nosler RDF 105's in 6MM based on my experience. As stated above, the quickest test is to pop the stem out and drop the bullet to be used in it and see if it wobbles around or fits relatively flush. A wobbly bullet indicates the tip is bottoming out inside the stem before the sides of the stem's opening contacts the ogive further down on the bullet.
...the ELD-M/A-MAX stem also works for Nosler RDF 105's in 6MM based on my experience. As stated above, the quickest test is to pop the stem out and drop the bullet to be used in it and see if it wobbles around or fits relatively flush. A wobbly bullet indicates the tip is bottoming out inside the stem before the sides of the stem's opening contacts the ogive further down on the bullet.
