BTW...I'm not a priest. I don't wear a collar.And please do NOT start confessing your sins to me. LOL
Guys, this is more serious than we thought. He’s not a priest, which means he could reproduce. I’m hoping for some divine intervention!
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BTW...I'm not a priest. I don't wear a collar.And please do NOT start confessing your sins to me. LOL
Guys, this is more serious than we thought. He’s not a priest, which means he could reproduce. I’m hoping for some divine intervention!
Over time I’ve stopped worrying so much about it. Some of my most accurate and smallest groups were shot with rounds that were not “straight”.
I love me. I don't care if anyone else does. In reality it's only about 8 or 10 people here that have this fetish with me, Stalking me everywhere I go.
Stop Hi jacking the man's thread.
Show him some respect .
Wrong. It is yall coming after me then blaming me because I defend myself..
I love me. I don't care if anyone else does. In reality it's only about 8 or 10 people here that have this fetish with me, Stalking me everywhere I go.
Stop Hi jacking the man's thread.
Show him some respect .
Wow, what a fucking trainwreck. As mentioned your $10 dial indicator is not as accurate as you are lead to believe. No, it's not malfunctioning as you say, just not accurate. You really need to calm the fuck down, some people have been trying to give helpful advice but YOU are the one that gets defensive and acts like a child. Hence the reason I asked if you were a teenager in another thread. If you aren't trying to reach epic troll status and are really this fucking ignorant, then all I can say is you should have been a blow job.
You are officially on ignore. And it is a tough decision to do so, because I enjoy laughing at people. I am not saying you were wrong, or even less intelligent for some of the dumbass shit you posted or the level you escalated this too.I mean… I'm really flattered by all my groupies that follow me around stalking me in every single thread I post in.
I suspect the OPs of all those threads are less impressed
God already intervened by making me 52 years old.
How is this even possible?
Natural selection works too slow.
Ya know, the problem with this thread is that the OP didn’t lay out any ground rules....
Thats because you dont make the rules here.
Actually that's because children don't follow rules. As other people noted my rules were little more than what is stated in the forum rules by the board creator/owner / admins.
But like I said… I'm here to learn. And that's what I learned.![]()
I do love my groupies… lol
Like Pavlov's dog they come and make me the center of every thread I participate in... I feel so honored....![]()
Hmmm...
"It is the person who continues in his self-deception and ignorance who is harmed.”
~Marcus Aurelius
You don't have to spend a fortune. The Sinclair model works fine.So my internal summary of the USEFUL information in this thread about concentricity:
Anything else I might have missed? I was planning on getting a concentricity gauge but after this thread, I'll focus my attention elsewhere. It seems, for my intentions, measuring concentricity is another step I can happily add to the "not absolutely necessary" list: turning necks, separating brass and bullets by weight, primer pocket uniforming, weighing to the kernel, and meplat trimming.
- Quality sizing die + floating die will mostly guarantee acceptable concentricity of brass
- Quality seating die + appropriate seating stem will mostly guarantee acceptable concentricity of cartridge.
- Measuring concentricity helps eke out accuracy/consistency AFTER everything else (*see sub-list below) has been done correctly (seems to be another process a benchrester may do but not necessarily a field shooter).
- Consistent powder charging
- Consistent seating depth
- Consistent brass after brass processing
- Low cost concentricity gauges or more like concentricity comparators. If you want to measure the actual concentricity of your cartridge, you're going to have to buy a higher quality (read: expensive) tool that references multiple areas of the brass/cartridge.
As always, YMMV.
Lol, it never hurts to own one, but a good one 235+.Anything else I might have missed? I was planning on getting a concentricity gauge but after this thread, I'll focus my attention elsewhere. It seems, for my intentions, measuring concentricity is another step I can happily add to the "not absolutely necessary" list: turning necks, separating brass and bullets by weight, primer pocket uniforming, weighing to the kernel, and meplat trimming.
As always, YMMV.
I worked as a machinist for many years. Part of the quality control regimen was checking total indicated runout. This was done between hardened and ground center's using dial indicators that were calibrated several times a year. Using such a setup allowed us to accurately measure to within a half a thou. Your equipment is nowhere near that accurate.
If you want to get serious, try this;
https://www.neconos.com/details.htm
View attachment 7092783
The not needed list is the absolute minutae of handloading, isn't it? One can load acceptable ammo (~MOA) without those steps. Now if you're trying to break bench rest records, you need every possible step/measurement/process to improve your cartridge + rifle pairing.Lol, it never hurts to own one, but a good one 235+.
When you post the list of not needed, makes one think someone does not want you to hit a fucking thing. Ignore too much and you are out of the game before it begins.
Bear in mind that was for shafts and splined/bore gages with center drilled ends.Thanks for sharing this, I have a handful of indicators that don’t have a job.
I agree with almost all you printed.The not needed list is the absolute minutae of handloading, isn't it? One can load acceptable ammo (~MOA) without those steps. Now if you're trying to break bench rest records, you need every possible step/measurement/process to improve your cartridge + rifle pairing.
Way more important list
Saving time and money will (hopefully) allow me to spend more time in areas with greater return (WTF)
- Using quality components (good brass, bullets, powder, primers)
- Finding a good mix of components that works for your specific rifle
- Consistent powder throws
- Measuring OAL of cartridge based on your chamber+barrel
- Having consistent CBTO based on above measurement
- Use lube on necks when seating bullets
- Measuring bullet velocity using a solid chronograph
- Reducing ES and SD of handloads
- Finding a good powder node
- Annealing brass
- READING WIND
- KNOW HOW TO CALCULATE TRAJECTORY
- FUNDAMENTALS
Well then, am I the one who's confused about what Imperial Dry Neck Lube was used for? I thought it was used for seating bullets but is it supposed to be used for neck sizing? Why would they make a separate lube just for neck sizing?People use neck lube to SEAT bullets? I've never heard of that. I would think that's inviting uneven/less-than-desired tension.
I only use the dry stuff when I'm messing with making wildcats. If I'm just reloading already formed brass I just FL with imperial and no neck lube. The one little jar of neck dust will most likely last me the rest of my life.
LOL, you are using it correctly, not saying it cannot have other uses.Well then, am I the one who's confused about what Imperial Dry Neck Lube was used for? I thought it was used for seating bullets but is it supposed to be used for neck sizing? Why would they make a separate lube just for neck sizing?
We anneal for this reason, "neck fatigue", I get that when I turn my head and watch some young hottie with a nice ass stroll by. I don't hang on to brass long enough for necks to go bad.https://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/162-imperial-dry-neck-lube-convenience-pak
Brass fatigue or “work hardening” is well documented in the case of over sizing the diameter of the neck, and Redding Type-S Bushing Style Dies can extend case life. A secondary and less known stress to a case neck occurs from the friction imparted to the surfaces of the neck from both the sizer, be it standard or bushing and the expander button. A high quality neck lubricant like that found in the Imperial Convenience Pak reduces this “burnishing” effect from friction further improving life of the case neck through repeated reloadings.
True, but that's not the main reason for the dry lube. Regular lubes like the wax type or the various sprays will end up damaging case shoulders when the case is fully inside the die because there is no place for it to go. The graphite lube won't do this.We anneal for this reason, "neck fatigue", I get that when I turn my head and watch some young hottie with a nice ass stroll by. I don't hang on to brass long enough for necks to go bad.
I understand fully what you meant. I have used many types of lube over the yrs, many styles of applications also. I do know this, sometime before you ever get a hydraulic dent, you will see a buildup of excess lube on the case shoulder junction when a case comes out from the die, here is your chance to stick a qtip in and clean that area of the die.True, but that's not the main reason for the dry lube. Regular lubes like the wax type or the various sprays will end up damaging case shoulders when the case is fully inside the die because there is no place for it to go. The graphite lube won't do this.
View attachment 7093015
I had no idea Imperial neck lube was made for sizing, my bad, I've only heard of guys dipping bullets in it, or necks to aid seating bullets. But I'm still not buying any, lolTrue, but that's not the main reason for the dry lube. Regular lubes like the wax type or the various sprays will end up damaging case shoulders when the case is fully inside the die because there is no place for it to go. The graphite lube won't do this.
View attachment 7093015