I just duracoated my AR and there is some lettering I was trying to paint different colors. I used testors model paint and tried tried wiping off the paint the bled over with acetone. I noticed that the duracoat was coming off a little and dulling the finish. I tried the paintfill after about 36 hours from when I put the duracoat on. Is there any chemical that is safe to use that will wipe the model paint and not damage the duracoat? or is there a certain curing time when the duracoat will not be vulnerable to the acetone? any info would be greatly appreciated, Thanks.
Gunsmithing Duracoat Question
- Thread starter kmstradtman
- Start date
Re: Duracoat Question
I've never tried what you are doing so can't totally help. However, from my experience, Duracoat take a very long time to cure. Like a month or more.
I've never tried what you are doing so can't totally help. However, from my experience, Duracoat take a very long time to cure. Like a month or more.
Re: Duracoat Question
acetone is bad stuff,pretty aggressive, you might try an enamel thinner since the testors is an enamel based product. Good Luck!
acetone is bad stuff,pretty aggressive, you might try an enamel thinner since the testors is an enamel based product. Good Luck!
Re: Duracoat Question
Rubbing alcohol should lift off the testers without affecting the duracoat. Even if the shine is a little different you might be able to cover it all by coating with a clear on top.
One of the tricks I was taught was to do very small sections at a time, literally one word or no more than 1/2" at a time and let it cure or hit it with a hair dryer. Also using a hard backer with a fine thread count will leave the cleanest edge when you wipe it. Also wipe from top of the barrel to the bottom of the barrel, not lengthwise muzzle to crown. I think people get in trouble when they try to do an entire role mark at once and the rag gets a little saturated and either starts pulling paint from the lettering or simply starts smearing it all over the place. Option number 2 is to use a gold or silver kit from Brownells if you want to pimp it a little.
Rubbing alcohol should lift off the testers without affecting the duracoat. Even if the shine is a little different you might be able to cover it all by coating with a clear on top.
One of the tricks I was taught was to do very small sections at a time, literally one word or no more than 1/2" at a time and let it cure or hit it with a hair dryer. Also using a hard backer with a fine thread count will leave the cleanest edge when you wipe it. Also wipe from top of the barrel to the bottom of the barrel, not lengthwise muzzle to crown. I think people get in trouble when they try to do an entire role mark at once and the rag gets a little saturated and either starts pulling paint from the lettering or simply starts smearing it all over the place. Option number 2 is to use a gold or silver kit from Brownells if you want to pimp it a little.
Re: Duracoat Question
72 hours is way to soon to be putting chemicals on fresh Duracoat. I would give it atleast two weeks before you attempt wiping with a chemical. I don't let anything touch a fresh Duracoat for 3 weeks!
72 hours is way to soon to be putting chemicals on fresh Duracoat. I would give it atleast two weeks before you attempt wiping with a chemical. I don't let anything touch a fresh Duracoat for 3 weeks!
