Gunsmithing duracoat reducer

P

pklin1297

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Apr 10, 2008
987
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Fontana, CA
#1
Hello all,

I'm ready to shoot some duracoat tomorrow on a barreled action, and also a pistol slide. Last time I used this same Iwata airbrush I got through the job but knew I should've added some reducer to make the flow smoother.

Anyway, I have bought some reducer this time but can't find precise directions on how much to add to the duracoat mixture. I read one that said 20% by volume, but that doesn't mean much to me... Any suggestions?

I read a tutorial talking about 4 table spoons of duracoat color and 1 teaspoon of hardener. Also watched Lauer Weaponry's video that said 6 table spoons of duracoat and 1 teaspoon of hardener. For those that have used duracoat, how do you mix? I've done 6+1 per Lauer's directions before and the mixture seemed a bit thick still...

Anyway, any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
#3
Re: duracoat reducer

Just got done duracoating the other day so my mind is fresh on the directions.

12:1 ratio on color to hardener is correct

Directions say no reducer is best as it increases dry/flash time. Also states that there should be no more than 20% reducer.
 
#4
Re: duracoat reducer

thanks guys, I guess I can just guesstimate the 20% reducer. last time I sprayed without reducer the finish was grainy and the needle was clogged and required cleaning once every few minutes, and the spray pattern was intermittent. I'll also try to up the PSI a bit more to maybe 35 psi.
 
#5
Re: duracoat reducer

The first time I used duracoat I had the same problem. Since then I just draw up some reducer in a syringe and add 5-10 drops to the duracoat it's worked fine for me that way. Hope this helps.
 
#6
Re: duracoat reducer

SoCal what type of gun are you using? I ask because it sounds to me like you were painting in the middle of summer and that your duracoat was shooting dry almost immediately. The reason I say that is, if you were mixing 6-1 then you were accellerating the drying process, but ask yourself this, what time of year did you shoot the last duracoat, i.e. was it hot&humid or what. The hotter the weather, the faster it will dry and need to be reduced. Just a thought. I'm really not sure about the 35psi thind either. I shot mine at 20psi in an hvlp setup, went on fine with no reducer, but not hot and humid either. This may just be an early morning ramble so take for what it is.
 
#8
Re: duracoat reducer

hi guys, thanks much for the food for thought... Here are some more info for better assessment of the problems, and I believe I know why it happened...

1. I use an Iwata Revolution SAR airbrush with 0.5mm needle, max spray spread pattern is 1.5".

2. Last time I shot Duracoat was in the summer. I'm in the Inland Empire of So. Cal. and summers here are extremely dry and can get to 120F. I don't remember exactly the condition of the day I shot, but I do remember it was hot and I was shooting in the garage. I plan on shooting it today and it is around 65F and drizzling outside. I will try it without reducer to see how it shoots first, just as soon as I find my hose and regular...

3. When I shot Duracoat last time I had just received it from Lauer that same week, so everything was fresh.

Like I said, I will try shooting a little bit today to see what happens. If reducer is till needed I will just add a tiny bit.

Thanks!
 
#11
Re: duracoat reducer

All done. No reducer was needed. I used 4 tablespoons of duracoat and 1 teaspoon of hardener, and 25 psi. Sprayed just fine and the airbrush didn't gum up like last time. Will take some pictures as soon as duracoat had a chance to set.

I had some rifle parts and a 1911 slide blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide, but for some reason the 1911 slide's finish after duracoat was rougher, and had a grit feel to it. Hopefully it is not too thick.

Colors used were Tactical Dark Earth and Tactical Flat Black. Talk about "flat", these finishes are nice and matte, but the Tactical Dark Earth is darker than regular Magpul Dark Earth.

By the way, since I didn't need as much duracoat for the black items, I mixed 2 tablespoons of duracoat and 1/2 teaspoons of hardener, basically divide the regular mixture by half... is this okay?
 
#12
Re: duracoat reducer

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SoCalPete</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All done. No reducer was needed. I used 4 tablespoons of duracoat and 1 teaspoon of hardener, and 25 psi. Sprayed just fine and the airbrush didn't gum up like last time. Will take some pictures as soon as duracoat had a chance to set.

I had some rifle parts and a 1911 slide blasted with 120 grit aluminum oxide, but for some reason the 1911 slide's finish after duracoat was rougher, and had a grit feel to it. Hopefully it is not too thick.

Colors used were Tactical Dark Earth and Tactical Flat Black. Talk about "flat", these finishes are nice and matte, but the Tactical Dark Earth is darker than regular Magpul Dark Earth.

By the way, since I didn't need as much duracoat for the black items, I mixed 2 tablespoons of duracoat and 1/2 teaspoons of hardener, basically divide the regular mixture by half... is this okay? </div></div>

Sounds like a winner!! Cant wait to see your work! Its fine to divide quantities in half, just stay within the 12:1 ratio and your all set!
 
#13
Re: duracoat reducer

I had the same issue with my airbrush gumming up. I ended up just bailing on the idea of the airbrush (needle was too small), and went to an automotive HVLP Touch-up gun with a 1.0 needle. Works great, I've been using that ever since.

Glad to hear it all worked out.

-matt
 
#14
Re: duracoat reducer

I basically set up my Iwata to where the needle is almost backed all the way out even at the usual "fine detail" setting to allow for the wide spray, this way the stream is not limited.

Was trying to get a few pics just now but it is not working out. I'll have to take it in daylight to get good pics.
 
#15
Re: duracoat reducer

Here are some not-so-good photos of my painted barreled action. The sun was already setting so the colors may not be true. Overall I liked the result. I misted some black at a distance on the flat dark earth parts and I liked the effect a lot, I could've lowered the psi and it would've created more irregular black splatter for more dramatic effect, but I liked this nonetheless. I will use this same method and scheme on the stock when it gets here next week.

IMG_1554-1.jpg


IMG_1559-1.jpg


IMG_1563-1.jpg


IMG_1564-1.jpg
 
#16
Re: duracoat reducer

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SoCalPete</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here are some not-so-good photos of my painted barreled action. The sun was already setting so the colors may not be true. Overall I liked the result. I misted some black at a distance on the flat dark earth parts and I liked the effect a lot, I could've lowered the psi and it would've created more irregular black splatter for more dramatic effect, but I liked this nonetheless. I will use this same method and scheme on the stock when it gets here next week.

IMG_1554-1.jpg


IMG_1559-1.jpg


IMG_1563-1.jpg


IMG_1564-1.jpg


</div></div>

GREAT JOB!!! Looks sweet!!
 
#17
Re: duracoat reducer

Thanks! I originally painted this with Krylon, which was a big mistake. After I was done, and waited the required "curing" time, the bolt would not go in and after it did it was hard to close the bolt because the coating was so thick. I thought I was going to get the same problem with duracoat since so many people said it is a thick coating, but the bolt went in and closed as if it was never coated. Good stuff. I'm going to get a few of my handguns blasted and coat also...

Does anyone know what is the finest aluminum oxide media you can use to blast metal surfaces with, and still not have problems with duracoat adhering to it?

Thanks.
 
#19
Re: duracoat reducer

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: locked&loaded</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice job.
Stick with 120 alu ox.
If you have any issues with spraying next time, add retarder in stead of reducer.
This will slow down dry time and allow you to lay down a smooth coat.
</div></div>


Great advice! Thank you, never thought of that. The smooth coat didn't seem to be a problem with the barreled action but every time I paint a pistol I get the gritty finish on it. I will try that next time. I assume the retarder can be found from Lauer?
 
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