My 20-something nephew, a USPSA and clay-target sports competitor, is interested in getting into PRS, starting with rimfire (he doesn't have access to more than 200 yards' range). He asked me for recommendations on a good entry-level rifle. The obvious answers are CZ and Ruger and, maybe someday, Tikka. Is there anything else that the precision community considers worthwhile at the lower price point?
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Entry-level options other than CZ, Ruger
- Thread starter DownhillFromHere
- Start date
I have a savage FVSR, for the money it is an accurate rifle. Not as accurate as an Anschutz or a Vudoo but for the money it's awesome. Definitely will need to replace the stock as soon as you get one though, the one it comes with sucks.
I have a CZ455 on it's way, for the same purpose of seeing if I'll enjoy PRS style shooting matches. I did the same research and I think the best current option is the CZ. The 10/22s are nice, but it seems many people almost instantly turn them into high-dollar Kidd-everything rifles and then for that kind of money it defeats the purpose of being a test-rifle. But it seems as if people get more milage out fo the stock CZ parts, especially the barrel.
I guess I'm a little bit of a hypocrite since I also ordered a Boyd's Pro Varmint stock and Timney trigger at the same time, but I think most shooters that have had a chance to use nicer stocks and triggers will opt to swap these out almost immediately...
I guess I'm a little bit of a hypocrite since I also ordered a Boyd's Pro Varmint stock and Timney trigger at the same time, but I think most shooters that have had a chance to use nicer stocks and triggers will opt to swap these out almost immediately...
But to actually answer your question, the options I see are:
I probably would have bought the Tika instead, but not available yet...
- CZ 455 Varmint or Tacticool - The varmint can be found with longer barrels (20.5" or 24" if that matters to you) but then needs a better stock, or the Tacticool comes with a good stock to begin with and a 16" barrel.
- CZ 512 - Semi-auto, but doesn't seem very popular
- Savage A22 Pro Varmint - semi-auto and has a nice stock to start with, but also doesn't seem very popular
- Savage Mark II TR or Mark II TRR-SR - looks like it has a nice stock and the latter model has a threaded barrel
- Savage FV SR - low-end version Savage and will need a better stock.
- Ruger 10/22 Target Light - Semi-auto, has a nice thumbhole stock. Of the 10/22 models, I think I would stay away from the take-down models since they seem like they're not suited for bi-pod use.
- Ruger American Target - This specific model is a very nice looking bolt gun and the stock might be good enough to keep with a stock pack to raise the comb up a little
I probably would have bought the Tika instead, but not available yet...
Kelbys 22 trainer. By the time you finish modding a cz455 or savage you could have just bought something nice from the start.
The OP was looking for an entry level rifle at a lower price point, so I think the Kelbys is out...
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I am personally running a 16" 455 Tacticool with a YoDave kit in an MDT chassis, and it does very well for an "entry-level +" rifle. I'd recommend it to anyone - with the proviso you're going to have to spend at least $40 for a pic rail, $18 for a YoDave kit, and some amount for a cheek riser for the Boyd stock, plus some elbow grease to polish various surfaces.
It appears that the Ruger precision rimfire has all that extra "stuff" already in place, but I read an awful lot about quality control / feeding issues. Given how many I saw at a recent match - five of the ten people on my squad were running them - I can see where demand may well be impacting quality, but the things were certainly accurate enough.
The T1X... well, if it ever shows up, it will be in the standard Tikka plastic stock, and I personally detest the things (I have a .223 T3X Varmint whose barreled action went directly from the box into a chassis and the stock went back into the box; I also have a TAC A1 that works well for me). Maybe my nephew will prefer a more traditional stock as many do... saves him $$ if he does.
I don't know anything about the Savages - thanks for tips on that platform.
And I assume (with all that the word implies) he's going to want a bolt gun. If not, he's on his own... ;-)
It appears that the Ruger precision rimfire has all that extra "stuff" already in place, but I read an awful lot about quality control / feeding issues. Given how many I saw at a recent match - five of the ten people on my squad were running them - I can see where demand may well be impacting quality, but the things were certainly accurate enough.
The T1X... well, if it ever shows up, it will be in the standard Tikka plastic stock, and I personally detest the things (I have a .223 T3X Varmint whose barreled action went directly from the box into a chassis and the stock went back into the box; I also have a TAC A1 that works well for me). Maybe my nephew will prefer a more traditional stock as many do... saves him $$ if he does.
I don't know anything about the Savages - thanks for tips on that platform.
And I assume (with all that the word implies) he's going to want a bolt gun. If not, he's on his own... ;-)
My nephew just bought a Savage MK II and I was very impressed. Shoots as good if not better than my 455.
Savage mkii all day long. I have two, one stock and one in a boyds evolution stock. Both shoot one hole at 50 yards, but the stock stock is not very nice to use. Norma tac-22 is their favorite round and not too expensive. This is what i would have bought if it was available at the time: https://www.savagearms.com/firearms/rimfire/mark-ii/mark-ii-btv
^^This^^ I have a Savage Mark II BV. It also shoots one hole at 50 yards, using basic CCI SV. The stock is not optimal for NRL 22 matches though and I am considering another stock option. The rifle shoots way to well for me to trade it for something more expensive. I shot our LR 22 match using a stock pack as it was a last minute thing.
Ok, here's where things stand. I got a good deal on a Ruger Precision Rimfire ($400 out the door). I learned that feeding issues are usually found in early-production rifles; Ruger is shipping new chassis to customers who have problems. The rifle I purchased has the updated stock in place.
After talking with a number of knowledgeable acquaintances, I decided to go with an Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 with mrad reticle for a scope. @gr8fuldoug at Camera Land was very helpful - it's worth your while to give him a call.
Now I have to come up with a set of rings or a one-piece mount as Camera Land doesn't play in that space. I'll visit my LGS for this - they often have good rings/mounts on their used rack, at excellent prices.
After all is said and done, this rig will cost less than the Vortex Viper PST 3-15x44 on my CZ. I am very curious as to how this truly entry-level setup will perform and will report back here, probably the week of 7/23/2018. My nephew is happy to have me assemble everything; he says it will save him a lot of time and, as a retired engineer, it scratches a curiosity itch.
After talking with a number of knowledgeable acquaintances, I decided to go with an Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 with mrad reticle for a scope. @gr8fuldoug at Camera Land was very helpful - it's worth your while to give him a call.
Now I have to come up with a set of rings or a one-piece mount as Camera Land doesn't play in that space. I'll visit my LGS for this - they often have good rings/mounts on their used rack, at excellent prices.
After all is said and done, this rig will cost less than the Vortex Viper PST 3-15x44 on my CZ. I am very curious as to how this truly entry-level setup will perform and will report back here, probably the week of 7/23/2018. My nephew is happy to have me assemble everything; he says it will save him a lot of time and, as a retired engineer, it scratches a curiosity itch.
I’ll offer up something a little different. Marlin XT-22VR with Varmint barrel. After dropping it into a Boyd’s varmint stock, polished trigger components and bedding the action it shoots impressively well with Eley EDGE.
Rifle: $170 (Cabelas Special)
Stock: $120
Scope: $150 (Athlon Talos 4-16x44)
Less than $450 all in and a pretty solid performer.
Rifle: $170 (Cabelas Special)
Stock: $120
Scope: $150 (Athlon Talos 4-16x44)
Less than $450 all in and a pretty solid performer.
Build is complete and initial break-in started with about 125 rounds fired, all but 15 rounds of it CCI standard velocity.
Some would say $800 is not necessarily "entry level" for a .22, but this rig is suitable for rimfire PRS competition out to or even past 300 yards as is, and the whole thing cost less than the Vortex Viper PST scope on my CZ-455.
Biggest surprise is the scope. Even at 24x, the scope is reasonably sharp, and the turrets decently crisp. I really lucked out to find the Vortex PMR rings used, in a nondescript plastic bag, at my LGS.
The bolt is very stiff, but is loosening up quickly. The trigger is reasonably crisp but heavy at a bit over 2.5 pounds at is lightest adjustment. Stock's LOP and comb adjustment is simple and reasonably easy to adjust.
Accuracy is about what I'd expect at this price point. The image below is 6 shots of CCI SV at 100 yards after about 75 rounds total through the new barrel (the dot is 0.75"). The first two were touching each other, then the flyer, then the last three.
- Ruger Precision Rimfire rifle - $400
- Athlon Argos BTR 6-24x50 FFP with sunshade - $368
- Vortex PMR rings (used) -$40
- Magpul pic rail for bipod - $8 (Harris adapter not included)
Some would say $800 is not necessarily "entry level" for a .22, but this rig is suitable for rimfire PRS competition out to or even past 300 yards as is, and the whole thing cost less than the Vortex Viper PST scope on my CZ-455.
Biggest surprise is the scope. Even at 24x, the scope is reasonably sharp, and the turrets decently crisp. I really lucked out to find the Vortex PMR rings used, in a nondescript plastic bag, at my LGS.
The bolt is very stiff, but is loosening up quickly. The trigger is reasonably crisp but heavy at a bit over 2.5 pounds at is lightest adjustment. Stock's LOP and comb adjustment is simple and reasonably easy to adjust.
Accuracy is about what I'd expect at this price point. The image below is 6 shots of CCI SV at 100 yards after about 75 rounds total through the new barrel (the dot is 0.75"). The first two were touching each other, then the flyer, then the last three.
Your accuracy result is right around what we ended up with putting one of these together for a buddy to start playing along. His is currently stock trigger and barrel, Vortex Viper HST, Weaver rings, M lok harris adapter and a cheap bubble level. We ran Norma match, CCi SV, Wolf match, Sk Std +, Eley Target and Eley club xtra through it in testing and found the two Eley loads to be best in it and not enough difference from Target to Club xtra to justify the increased ammo cost. He's shooting Eley Target and averaging 1.2MOA or so. I don't think you can ask for much more out of a factory budget stick.
Thanks for feedback. One thing to check on your buddy's rifle is insure the M-lok adapter screw isn't touching the barrel. I read elsewhere in the Hide that this has been an issue for some. In my nephew's rifle, the screws clear the barrel by about 1/8" - but loading the front of the handguard too much definitely has the front screw in contact with the barrel.
I'm hoping that, with a bit more breakin and running some samples of different/better ammo, we'll see a little better performance. I'd also like to put a bubble level on it... I bought a used one with the used rings, but I didn't notice the bubble was directly between the screws, not offset, so it was impossible to see the bubble while cheek-welded to the rifle. Bubble went back.
I also took the barreled action out of the chassis, removed the handguard and trigger from the barreled action, and cleaned everything up a little better. The preservative Ruger uses seems to be tar made from North Carolina (where these little rifles are made) pine trees. I'd like to put in a lighter trigger spring but, unlike Tikkas, the spring can't be removed without disassembling the trigger unit - removing the adjustment screw completely reveals that the spring is captive in the channel into which the screw fits.
I see you have all ready taken off the factory muzzle break, that is good as there are several reports of them having "baffle strikes" from the factory. Don't know it it is a threading problem or a bad batch of ruger muzzle breaks yet.
I used Honady One Shot Cleaner Lube on my trigger, well really all of my triggers. Take the lower halves apart and put the little red tube on the can and just spray the crap out of the trigger. It's amazing how much debris that gets left behind on factory triggers. After I did that I had a pretty decent trigger that was 1.5lbs without adjusting anything.
I flushed the trigger with charcoal lighter, blew it out with compressed air, and lubed/greased per the manual. The flushing did get a little debris out but not much. Pull weight remained reasonably crisp 2.5 pounds. After reading accounts such as yours, I had hoped for improved pull weight... didn't happen for me. Maybe my "budget solvent" wasn't effective enough.
I’m in a similar boat as your nephew. Wanting to get into PRS, but I want to practice with cheaper ammo to improve. Was the flyer “yours” or was it the rifle? Is this still pretty typical of the accuracy you’re getting? On paper the Ruger Precision Rimfire looks great, but if it only shoots 3MOA groups I’m wondering if it would actually help me improve my shooting or not- with groups like that how will I know if the flyers are me or the rifle? Thanks for the thread - I’ve learned a lot reading all the posts here!
There are Hide members far more experienced than me, so I'll trust them to correct or weigh in on my opinion here.
You cannot expect "cheap" .22 ammo to be consistent, especially in terms of velocity. The cheaper the ammo, the more inconsistent it is likely to be. That goes for barrels and entire .22 firearms as well. There are numerous threads in the Hide forum collection and in other sites going into more specifics.
The flier in the photo was almost certainly ammo. I have worked with this rifle a bit more, trying lower-end match rounds and some other standard-velocity fare. The worst of these did 2-3 MOA (1 - 1.5") at 50 yards, with the groups spread out. Others would shoot two or three rounds into 1/4" and then fling a couple an inch away. CCI SV remains the best that I've used much in this rifle. This past weekend, it put 8 of 10 rounds into less than 1/2" but two fliers were 1/2" lower than the rest of the group and touching each other (50 yards) - which strongly suggests lower velocity. The rifle seems to be tightening its groups as more rounds are put through it.
It also showed some promise with Wolf Match Extra, but that's my personal stash - I bought half a case (2500 rounds) of the same lot because my CZ-455 really likes it. But the Ruger shoots CCI SV as well as my CZ.
The value proposition for the Ruger is just too good to ignore. You have to spend another $100 or so to bring a CZ-455 to where the Ruger is out of the box, as described earlier in this thread. Is the CZ more accurate? Maybe... Depends on the luck of the draw. But its for sure there will be aftermarket barrels in plenty for the little Ruger, so that's an option. Or, if it just doesn't float your boat, it will be really easy to sell. Every one that appears in the two places I pay attention to locally is sold immediately.
MAJOR advantage of the Ruger over CZ-455 realized in my still-sweaty-from range trip: the safety.
RPRim safety is standard AR. Flip it with your thumb.
CZ safety is this god-awful horribly stiff roughly-machined monstrosity that grows out the top of the bolt's rear that takes a relative eternity to disengage with soft arthritic fingers.
I never paid attention to it until I started running dot drills on a timer today. The PRS matches I have attended require stage start with bolt closed, safety engaged, and mag inserted on RO's command. I've only done one rimfire match, and I remember now that, when the timer beeped, I was trying to disengage that safety as I moved into position. RO didn't say anything, probably because the mag had been inserted under a closed bolt.
But today, when I practiced disengaging the safety after I got prone behind the rifle, I promptly tore a fingernail and found that safety to be utterly awful. Yay for AR-style safety.
At first opportunity, the CZ bolt is coming apart for a LOT of polishing on the safety bearing surfaces.
RPRim safety is standard AR. Flip it with your thumb.
CZ safety is this god-awful horribly stiff roughly-machined monstrosity that grows out the top of the bolt's rear that takes a relative eternity to disengage with soft arthritic fingers.
I never paid attention to it until I started running dot drills on a timer today. The PRS matches I have attended require stage start with bolt closed, safety engaged, and mag inserted on RO's command. I've only done one rimfire match, and I remember now that, when the timer beeped, I was trying to disengage that safety as I moved into position. RO didn't say anything, probably because the mag had been inserted under a closed bolt.
But today, when I practiced disengaging the safety after I got prone behind the rifle, I promptly tore a fingernail and found that safety to be utterly awful. Yay for AR-style safety.
At first opportunity, the CZ bolt is coming apart for a LOT of polishing on the safety bearing surfaces.
For very entry-level/budget friendly, as some others have said, the Savage FVSR is pretty darn good. I added a stock pack which makes the horrible factory stock usable. I bought a CZ 455 Tacticool which was nice, but the Savage is just as accurate. I sold the CZ.
I mainly shoot an Anschutz MPR, which is totally next-level from either one, a completely ballgame.
I haven’t personally shot NRL22 or similar matches (I mostly shoot bench long-range steel and silhouette competitions), but from the courses of fire I’ve looked at for those types of matches, it doesn’t seem that pure mechanical accuracy of the weapons system is quite as important as in some other disciplines. Not to say that the gun doesn’t have to be accurate, but my point is that it seems to me if you shoot a Savage (or RPR, or CZ, or whatever) and you get beat... well, someone just outshot you, not necessarily because they had a better gun. In the COF’s I found online, I think I could walk though shooting pretty much clean with any decent rimfire from a good rest. However, add time constraints, variable positions, etc., and it would be far more about the Indian than the Arrow (and I’d defintely not shoot clean, lol). That’s just my take, from the outside of NRL22 looking in, though I hope to find one to shoot in this fall.
The Savage I have is just as accurate as the CZ’s (two different models) I had, and a good point made above and not to be overlooked, the safety is incomparably better on the Savage. I wasn’t really thinking from a competition standpoint (I almost never even engage the safety on the comps I shoot), but from a hunting standpoint, and I noted how awful the CZ safety is.
The Savage is much cheaper than the CZ, street price on new FVSR’s is about $200 now. Best street price I could find on CZ Tacticool when I bought mine was $470. So, you could buy a Boyd’s provarmint stock and bottom metal for the Savage and still be ahead.
You’d lose the ability to slap an aftermarket barrel on the CZ, but if I going to drop $400 on a Lilja for a CZ, I’d rather just buy a used Anschutz and be done with it.
I also have a friend with a heavy-barrel Marlin; they are sleepers in this game, and no one ever talks about them. It shoots as good as any of the Savages/CZ’s I’ve personally had, and Marlins have accounted for countless head-shot squirrels over the years.
I mainly shoot an Anschutz MPR, which is totally next-level from either one, a completely ballgame.
I haven’t personally shot NRL22 or similar matches (I mostly shoot bench long-range steel and silhouette competitions), but from the courses of fire I’ve looked at for those types of matches, it doesn’t seem that pure mechanical accuracy of the weapons system is quite as important as in some other disciplines. Not to say that the gun doesn’t have to be accurate, but my point is that it seems to me if you shoot a Savage (or RPR, or CZ, or whatever) and you get beat... well, someone just outshot you, not necessarily because they had a better gun. In the COF’s I found online, I think I could walk though shooting pretty much clean with any decent rimfire from a good rest. However, add time constraints, variable positions, etc., and it would be far more about the Indian than the Arrow (and I’d defintely not shoot clean, lol). That’s just my take, from the outside of NRL22 looking in, though I hope to find one to shoot in this fall.
The Savage I have is just as accurate as the CZ’s (two different models) I had, and a good point made above and not to be overlooked, the safety is incomparably better on the Savage. I wasn’t really thinking from a competition standpoint (I almost never even engage the safety on the comps I shoot), but from a hunting standpoint, and I noted how awful the CZ safety is.
The Savage is much cheaper than the CZ, street price on new FVSR’s is about $200 now. Best street price I could find on CZ Tacticool when I bought mine was $470. So, you could buy a Boyd’s provarmint stock and bottom metal for the Savage and still be ahead.
You’d lose the ability to slap an aftermarket barrel on the CZ, but if I going to drop $400 on a Lilja for a CZ, I’d rather just buy a used Anschutz and be done with it.
I also have a friend with a heavy-barrel Marlin; they are sleepers in this game, and no one ever talks about them. It shoots as good as any of the Savages/CZ’s I’ve personally had, and Marlins have accounted for countless head-shot squirrels over the years.
I also have a friend with a RPR, and it seems to be right around the same neighborhood accuracy-wise as the Savage/CZ’s.
When you run out of the Wolf, give SK rifle match a try if you haven’t. SK, Lapua, and previously Wolf were all same bullet, lube, etc., in varying grades of consistency. They are supposedly reintroducing Wolf, but it will be made by Eley, and so will be completely different.
This brings up another point on the “entry-level” theme; ammo is incredibly important. It’s not just black magic what a rifle “prefers” (though chamber/throat specs do come into play somewhat). You pretty much have to pay for velocity consistency, which matters tremendously at longer ranges. 10 FPS at 200 yards = 1” in elevation difference. That’s a lot, and that’s even before you take into account the MOA/cone of fire accuracy of the rifle.
Also, don’t just shoot a few groups of one ammo, then grab another box, shoot a few more and think you have a fair comparison. I’ve wasted a lot of ammo that way. Rimfire lubes vary a lot from maker to maker, and they are not all compatible. Shooting a wax-lubed ammo in a barrel well-seasoned with a grease lubed ammo (e.g. SK/Lapua/Wolf) can give misleadingly disappointing results.
So, clean between types, and then foul the barrel with the new ammo before hoping to learn anything. That’s one reason I stick with SK/Lapua. I can practice with mid-priced stuff (SK magazine or Standard+) and switch to top shelf (Lapua Center-X or Midas+) without worrying about that, and in some lots, with no POI shift. Which brings up the lot-testing rabbit hole, which I will refrain from at this point (your welcome)...
Thanks for all your well thought out posts. I don’t want to get too off topic, but is there a general consensus on the best way to clean your rimfire barrel? Whether that be between switching ammo types or after shooting shooting a lot (some say they never clean their rimfire barrel).
Well, you’ll get lots of opinions, and it may truly vary somewhat from barrel to barrel, but many if not most serious benchrest competitors clean after every card, if that tells you anything.
In my Anschutz, cleaning makes a huge difference. I was shooting with an old-school, never-clean fellow a few weeks ago, and I was shooting some pretty rough groups at 200yards (6”+). I got out my stuff to clean, and he scoffed...until I gave it a cursory cleaning and immediately shot a sub-2” group. That was not the first time I’ve proved to myself that it matters...
I use a mop to saturate the bore with Hoppe’s or mineral spirits, brush a few times, then patch until relatively clean. Of course there is variation, but that’s what I’ve observed to be common. It’s also simple and works well. Be sure to invest in a bore guide, as there’s no chamber to help guide the rod in on a rimfire, not to mention avoiding breech damage.
As long as we’re discussing entry into the rimfire world, here’s another nugget that might save you some frustration...
Rimfires don’t hold MOA across distance like centerfires, due to ammo variation and the extreme degree to which wind matters. General rule of thumb: group sizes at 100y average 4x what they do at 50y, and at 200y it’s more like 10x the 50y average.
In other words, 3” groups at 200y are a cause for celebration with most rifles. True, non-cherry picked 1” group average at 100y is quite good, and tougher than you think it should be.
Not to mention, a little wind really screws groups even at 100, and all bets are off in a breeze at 200. 1 mph shift in wind yields a 1” change in impact at 200, if that tells you anything.
Rimfires don’t hold MOA across distance like centerfires, due to ammo variation and the extreme degree to which wind matters. General rule of thumb: group sizes at 100y average 4x what they do at 50y, and at 200y it’s more like 10x the 50y average.
In other words, 3” groups at 200y are a cause for celebration with most rifles. True, non-cherry picked 1” group average at 100y is quite good, and tougher than you think it should be.
Not to mention, a little wind really screws groups even at 100, and all bets are off in a breeze at 200. 1 mph shift in wind yields a 1” change in impact at 200, if that tells you anything.
Savage Mark II TRR SR, and standard ten round magazines also work fine. The Mueller 8-32x44 scopes are relatively inexpensive, clear and sharp, and are well known in Rimfire target circles. I own three and use them on my centerfire rifles with years of service. My very basic and ancient Mark II was used by most of seven NRA Youth Rimfire Distinguished Experts to earn their ratings.
Greg
Greg
Very true. I had forgot about the TRR, mich like the FVSR but with a longer barrel and the Boyd’s already installed.
I have heard of a lot of folks using those Muellers, especially as a solid budget benchrest option. How are the turrets on those? I’ve gone to Athlons (Midas 4.5-27, in my case) and they track great, with a superb reticle in the Mil version.
The turrets work great for me, some reports about mushy clicks, I don't notice that. 1/8 MOA clicks, these scopes really allow fine adjustment, which I like when doing 1000yd stuff. Tracking..., I don't do box tests, but the clicks match the amount of adjustment I expect at given distances. All my shooting is KD (either even square range distances, or LRF derived), so I use the fine hair, fine target dot reticle. I've had much better shooters than I give the scopes a peek and they all comment that for $269, I certainly got some sharp, clear glass.
There have been several reviews that mention the scope's adjusters binding when rings are positioned next to the turrets and cranked pretty hard. Rather than doubt or argue, I use the Vortex 6 Screw rings, keep them at least 1/2" from the turrets, and tighten them with some caution. The extra length of the 6 screw rings allows the rings to retain the scope tube with more contact area, and I believe that allows them to be retained adequately without over tightening the tube. At any rate, I've never bound one up. I have them on a .260, a .308, and a .223.
The 44mm objective is obviously not intended for low light conditions, but I don't shoot under low light conditions, so no disappointments about that. I rate them five stars for my needs.
With 22LR, I have reservations about barrels longer than 16"-18"; they don't increase velocity, and I don't think they're any more accurate. They are particularly beneficial when a longer iron sight radius is desired.
I love the 10/22's, mine is all tricked out and as accurate as I can handle. They can be a pain when single feeding is required, I keep ten magazines onhand (I bought a couple each time I went to Wal-Mart, and did the same thing with the Savage MKII 10rd magazines as well), and load them each with one round to deal with such restrictions. Mine uses a very inexpensive Tasco 6-24x42 Varmint/Target with very adequate accuracy. Believe it or not, it's the same model of scope I shot 1000yd F Open with for several years before I acquired the Mueller(s).
Back in the 90's, as Captain of our Marine Corps League local shooting team, I bought a bunch of Bushnell Dusk to Dawn 6-18x40 scopes very cheaply, and they were the team scope for 22LR events. We liked them.
Greg
There have been several reviews that mention the scope's adjusters binding when rings are positioned next to the turrets and cranked pretty hard. Rather than doubt or argue, I use the Vortex 6 Screw rings, keep them at least 1/2" from the turrets, and tighten them with some caution. The extra length of the 6 screw rings allows the rings to retain the scope tube with more contact area, and I believe that allows them to be retained adequately without over tightening the tube. At any rate, I've never bound one up. I have them on a .260, a .308, and a .223.
The 44mm objective is obviously not intended for low light conditions, but I don't shoot under low light conditions, so no disappointments about that. I rate them five stars for my needs.
With 22LR, I have reservations about barrels longer than 16"-18"; they don't increase velocity, and I don't think they're any more accurate. They are particularly beneficial when a longer iron sight radius is desired.
I love the 10/22's, mine is all tricked out and as accurate as I can handle. They can be a pain when single feeding is required, I keep ten magazines onhand (I bought a couple each time I went to Wal-Mart, and did the same thing with the Savage MKII 10rd magazines as well), and load them each with one round to deal with such restrictions. Mine uses a very inexpensive Tasco 6-24x42 Varmint/Target with very adequate accuracy. Believe it or not, it's the same model of scope I shot 1000yd F Open with for several years before I acquired the Mueller(s).
Back in the 90's, as Captain of our Marine Corps League local shooting team, I bought a bunch of Bushnell Dusk to Dawn 6-18x40 scopes very cheaply, and they were the team scope for 22LR events. We liked them.
Greg
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I am happy with my new CZ-455. It seems like a great gun for the money with a lot of aftermarket support. I'm anxious to check out their new 457!
I tried the SK Standard +. It did ok, as I remember. I had 100 rounds of it. It was about that time I tried the Wolf Match Extra and got the best groups I'd seen and a single-digit SD from the chrono. So I bought all I could get at my LGS, which had a very good (better than online) price on the limited quantity.
Prime Ammunition is running a near-unbelievable sale on their 40-grain subsonic hollow points. Normally $900 a case, it's on sale for $299. Case lot only. I can't buy CCI SV that cheap. And reportedly this stuff shoots very well - of course, that's not true for all rifles...
And yes, I wholeheartedly agree with accuracy impact of changing from grease-lube to wax-lube bullets. For that matter, I hold that changing from any bullet to any other bullet is cause for pause- I allow at least 25 rounds to "stabilize" after a change.
I have become a cleaning minimalist... I clean after every half a brick to a brick of ammo. I make sure I have at least 50 rounds down the tube after cleaning before I shoot a competition or pay attention to group size.
I had both my CZ and the RPR at the range today - my nephew will be picking up the RPRim next weekend, and I wanted to try it at 100 and 150 yards one more time at least. Shooting at 6" IDPA cardboard targets at 150 yards, I easily hit every time with the CZ/Wolf in a roughly 3"Hx 2.5"W group. The Ruger/CCI added about an inch to that group size, with a couple of substantial fliers. I'm hoping the Ruger will show more consistent accuracy with the Prime than it does with CCI SV.
I really appreciate everyone that has contributed to this thread and hope that people considering PRS-type shooting find it useful.
A beginner like me finds this very useful - I appreciate all the time you guys put into these comments. How do you know if you have grease lube or wax lube bullets? I didn’t even know there were different kinds.
O, trust me, padowan, you'll know.
The stuff is so bleeping slippery it's hard to top off magazines, especially when your hands are sweaty. It's literally like the stuff is dipped in bacon grease. I keep a few big paper napkins in my range bag on .22 days.I’ve found SK Rifle Match (or Pistol Match, in some lots) to be consistently better than Standard+. However, Standard + is really good for practice ammo, with similar POI (most lots, anyway), you’ll just have more “dropped rounds,” where the velocity is significantly off (evident out past 150y). Seems to be around 2-4 dropped rounds per box of Standard+, maybe 1 or 2 per hundred, max with Rifle Match. Some lots of Rifle Match are as good as CenterX.
There can be quite a bit a variation from lot to lot of even the good stuff.
My advice is always to pick a brand, test several lots of the high grade and buy a bunch of the best lot while it’s avaialble (it disappears from shelves quicker than you think, especially if it’s a good lot), and get some of a compatible/similar lower-priced line of the same brand/bullet for practice.
Champions Choice, and several other rimfire competition-focused retailers, will sell by the lot, and will send you a sample box of each lot they have to test upon request. Calling them makes it easier, vs. online.
I’ll be real interested to see some range reports on the Prime ammo. Any idea on who makes it, assuming it’s rebranded?
