Night Vision EOTECH CLIP ON THERMALS ( Full details)

The OD of the objective bell is 87.04mm or 3.427” according to my calipers. There are a number of 87mm slip-fit lens caps available online. I don’t like the caps rattling around on lanyards so I may just get a slip-fit that I stuff in a pocket or something. Or maybe we can all convince @derek1ee to make us some like the ones he did for the PVS-30. https://dotechne.com/objective-lens-cover-an-pvs-30/

Thanks for your interest. I've procrastinated for a long time turning my PVS-30 design into a parametric one that I can easily offer in other sizes, I've also been focusing on investing on milling/turning equipment so the actual printing is still done by someone else.

But picking up the project again and think I will first try to offer it in popular sizes (e.g. 2.56in which should fit TT525, Razor636), and then look into ways to bring the printing in house, so hopefully will have better news to share end of year/early next year.
 
If I may offer a counterpoint: there are already multiple renowned manufacturers of 3D printed high-quality lens caps for riflescopes like those. Breaking into that market may be challenging. If you offer caps for less common optics, you will be the only game in town.
 
If I may offer a counterpoint: there are already multiple renowned manufacturers of 3D printed high-quality lens caps for riflescopes like those. Breaking into that market may be challenging. If you offer caps for less common optics, you will be the only game in town.
I think that's only partially true, there are a few options but they all share the same design (AAD or copy of it). I have a bunch of AAD myself and like them.

But mine is a very different design that, well, I like a lot more. :) I certainly hope to offer it for uncommon optics, but until I can bring everything in house it's more challenging to be able to do it at the price point I want to hit. But if we can get say 10 folks interested in something, that's certainly something I'm happy to entertain.
 
Yeah but same issue as the one Cory printed - you gotta put it somewhere when you take it off and a 4" diameter flat plate is not a convenient thing to stick in a pocket etc. A hinged design would let you just flap it down onto the rail.
 
6 emails (all unanswered) and two phone calls after receiving my replacement unit back in May and still no one can get back with me from EoTech. I started a new RMA through their website and mailed it in. Just called and the rep on the phone had no information on this new RMA and said the person in charge ( Pat. L) would look into it. I asked for this persons direct email and he would not share it.

Seriously guys, be careful buying things from EoTech right now. They are so screwed up.
Very disappointing!!!!
 
Can anyone confirm if the clipIR thermal (non LR)has a dedicated reticle and can be used as standalone? I’ve read a few posts here where it’s mentioned but can’t tell if it’s confirmed or just rumors. I realize that is not why most people would buy this so that’s probably why it isn’t discussed a whole lot, I am just curious. Thanks!
 
Hey guys, if you’re interested here’s some initial footage and results with the whatever name they’re choosing this week?!? (XLR, XELR) ELR MK 2

I’ll be working on a full review video later this month:


Great video! Preston and SOK rock.

When you mentioned the 0.4mil offset, was that the clip on thermal you were referring to or the ZCO you had put on the rifle?
 
Great video! Preston and SOK rock.

When you mentioned the 0.4mil offset, was that the clip on thermal you were referring to or the ZCO you had put on the rifle?
Thanks brother… it’s odd the .4 was when I put the thermal in front of the ZCO. However when I put it in front of the Tangent Theta 5-25 (video coming later this month) there wasn’t any dope collimation variance?!?

I’m not sure if that was just a fluke or if I goofed up the setup? I’m going to be doing some additional testing.
 
Thanks brother… it’s odd the .4 was when I put the thermal in front of the ZCO. However when I put it in front of the Tangent Theta 5-25 (video coming later this month) there wasn’t any dope collimation variance?!?

I’m not sure if that was just a fluke or if I goofed up the setup? I’m going to be doing some additional testing.
Good to know! Not sure on the answer there.

I played around with some CNVD LRs from L3 at one one and had similar issues, where I haven’t run into that with the PVS30/PVS27 I2 clip ons.

Could even just be the setups of the rifles and the extra weight. If it’s repeatable, it doesn’t matter too much. Basically 1.5” shift at 100yds.

Great shooting and cool to see. Makes me want to sell my KAC PVS30 White L3 unit to get one!
 
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Thanks brother… it’s odd the .4 was when I put the thermal in front of the ZCO. However when I put it in front of the Tangent Theta 5-25 (video coming later this month) there wasn’t any dope collimation variance?!?

I’m not sure if that was just a fluke or if I goofed up the setup? I’m going to be doing some additional testing.
Were you able to spot misses or splashes in the berm when using the thermal?
 
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No I wasn’t. I was just having to change my wind hold on every shot when there was a miss. That being said though it was 82° and very humid, I’m hoping when the colder weather hits I’ll see some report down range.
I like the scope cam videos but I feel they might be slightly out of focus. Is that hard to fix or is that not something you can see until after its recorded? (i dont own one)
 
I like the scope cam videos but I feel they might be slightly out of focus. Is that hard to fix or is that not something you can see until after its recorded? (i dont own one)
Its difficult to properly capture video through the scope using thermal clip ons with a Triggercam. I did some video through the xelr Mk 1.5, and it was never a 1 to 1 ratio to what you see with your eyes. That's partially why I never posted my video through the xelr that SOK/Preston&Joe sent me since it was disparaging to the unit. I'll still posted it up though for those that are interested. Took lots of tinkering to get it looking somewhat decent.
 
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Here's a still from that video
 

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Thanks brother… it’s odd the .4 was when I put the thermal in front of the ZCO. However when I put it in front of the Tangent Theta 5-25 (video coming later this month) there wasn’t any dope collimation variance?!?

I’m not sure if that was just a fluke or if I goofed up the setup? I’m going to be doing some additional testing.
What did you have the parallax set at?
 
Anybody have an issue with the screen (XELR 1.5?) giving a phantom like effect (like an imprinted plasma kind of) that overlays the actual image so you can't make out any detail. It was ~20F and that is the only thing I could construe as a contributing factor (even thoughI specs say ??).

I pulled the old "turn it off, then turn it back on again" routine and it actually worked, but its like a clock started until the issue cropped up again.

Do you guys have an idea of what temps/humidity/day-night/cloud coverage produce best/worst contrast et al.? I also felt like my image wasn't popping like Im used to.

Thanks


Did you NUC it by accident? I don't have an ELR but have NUCed units with the shutter off and it basically takes an image of the current view which then stays on the screen until it's done again with the shutter down.

Again, don't have an ELR which I believe has an auto shutter/NUC, but the way you describe it sounds similar to head.mounted thermals I have accidentally done that with.
 
It does have some fancy NUC feature (quick reset). But that's a feature - its fallible.

View attachment 8311287

I can only hope it just disappears with a 'break in period' - for now.

Pray
Sounds like the shutter isn't closing when it nucs. Have you tried to do a manual NUC when it screws up? (Short press on the button forward and right of the power button) If all else fails, nuc it with the lens cap closed.

Also, and don't quote me on this. I believe there are some auto and manual shutter options in the menu. Any chance a setting got changed?
 
Resurrecting this thread…. Anyone have success with a diving board mounted LRF over the clipIR ELR?

My spuhr with raptar mount wasn’t even close (works fine on left/right side though). Thinking about trying a different mount like area419 or nf. Would really like the LRF on top.

Vortex impact 4000 if it matters